Lmackattack

I think my water pump is slowly dying? Weep hole is wet and I hear a whine that keeps getting louder the longer i run it.,So I figured I'd replace it as the current one was bought used 20 years ago. I plan to rebuild it but for a test I bought this pump on Amazon for about $150 and going to give it a shot.  Hope to install it next week and see how it holds up. 

RAREELECTRICAL Water Pump https://a.co/d/9S2YtW2

Just wondering if anyone has used these with any luck.

I currently have a factory reman 631gc50106x

 Is there a modern replacement Turbo that will work for my application.

I would assume there is a more efficient turbo to replace this old dinosaur 

2 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

So the parts store cant cross reference the clutch for you.  I wish I had a catalog to help you.  Sorry bud .. hopefully GW will tell you what you need

Haven't gone out to the store yet. Was going to pick your guys brains first to hear any real life opinions on the cl75 or any other options I may have

45 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

I had the impression that you wanted a different clutch than a CL-75.  

If they make a better modern clutch that simply replaces a CL75 I'm all ears. 

But just don't want to have to swap flywheel or other expensive parts if it's just to get a higher rated clutch if it will never see more than 1200 ft lbs

I have not considered anything because I literally know nothing about what clutch fits or can be retrofitted.

I'm just trying to keep it simple as this truck will never see more than 285-300hp.  I just want a bolt on and go. If there is a reason to swap flywheel I will but if it's not necessary I wont.

I 

I want to order a new clutch for my 77. It has the  285 maxidyne with a rebuilt 12 speed that i will be installing soon.

My build sheet says it had a CL75 when new. Engine is original to the truck. 

What clutch should I look for?. I know nothing about them besides how they work. 

Thank you

That 2 piece grill was used on early RS/RL 700s with the hood that was not as tall as the later RS/RL. Basically a R700 style hood where the tire to fender gap was very obvious.

The later model RS/RL hoods had lower fenders with taller hood sides thus reducing the tire to fender gap.  These had a single piece grill.

The bar in question held the hood from flexing outward because the aluminum grill was not as rigid as the later single piece grill. 

The 2 piece grill was on a hinge so the hood could tilt.

I suspect they moved away from the 2 piece grill because it was not as sturdy.

Heck even my late model RS700 hood with single piece grill will allow the hood to flex when opening in the wind.

anyone know the size of the rear hub cap used on mack axles?

I think they are different than Eaton axles?

Anyone watching it live on youtube.

18 hours ago, JoeH said:

Claimed by @PMC,  if anyone wants 2nd in line in case he falls through just let me know.

Let me know if it falls thru.

I will add my .02

Mack camelback is a off road suspension. I never understood why mack kept pushing to sell it to all buyers use when most other truck builders pushed their buyers to air ride. Air ride is not just better for driver comfort but it also dont beat the truck to death either.

The E7 in my opinion is limited to a vocational engine by todays standards. they were reliable but once the E7 moved to electronic they were just gutless . thats probably why they were so reliable becase they were weak on power and thus seam to last longer.  sure they will do the job but just not as efficiently as a big bore cat or detroit can. "no replacement for displacement" 

The cab over parts will pretty much be a junk yard hunt so dont expect mack dealers to be of much use.

If you want a good solid nice truck look at years 2000-2007 Pete or KW. pre emission trucks with Cat 3406 or C13, C15 power. you pay more for a cat but I feel you get what you pay for. parts are still available for both truck and engines and you will be better off in most situations. I love my old macks but I dont think I would ever buy a newer mack. this is after company driving them and seeing how dated they are in the HP race and the difficulties it is to get some basic parts for them. When I drove a 2002 pete it was always a breeze to get parts from the pete dealer. not so much for a 2007 mack.

And someone asked about Gregg Hoffman and his MH. he is still driving it but it has a Cat in it now

I think Ray parked his MH and is driving for Walmart now for the Insurance.

Have a good one

I have not looked behind the dash for the plug. That was one of my questions as if they would build the dash harness with it set up for a power window even if not installed 

I will check the fuse panel to see if it has a slot available 

how difficult is it to swap from a manual to power window. Im just intrested in the Passenger window for now.

1) will the power regulator bolt in the stock door shell?

2) is there a special wire harness that can simply plug and play between the door,dash harness and the dash switch?

Thank you

If you want mack rears and you currently have eaton then a complete axle swap is going to be cheaper in the long run.  only thing to check at that point is if the axle tubes are the same size to accept any parts that clamp down on them to hold it to the suspension.  

My opinion is to stay with eaton. far easier to get parts for these days. 20 years ago id dissagree with my current statement.

17 hours ago, Adkat said:

I'd say you're on the money with it being an E6 housing.

 

 

 

 

OK thank you. I have a friend who was asking me if I had one and Wanted to confirm. Thank you

can anyone tell me what this bellhousing bolts up to. internet say its a E6 but want to confirm

Date stamp is 1972

part number 634gc5194

thank you

If I remember right on the factory installed dual breather RW I Drove it had a reinforcment bracket on the passenger side similar to how the drivers side is. 

I know they suffered from the ho low range syncronizer. they often grinded between range changes. Not macks best transmission but when they were working right they were not all that bad for a road truck.  

as far as value. they are not a popular option by people looking to swap in a diffrent transmission. 

2 hours ago, Freightrain said:

I will be doing a hood scoop of sorts to get some air under the hood by the turbine air cleaner. Ron has a Super duty Ford hood scoop on his B model.  People think they are gold now so maybe an aluminum scoop from something car related.  I will come up with something even if I have to make it.

 

Today's project....triplex assembly.

Larry My Blue B model has a driver side Air filter added to supply  outside air to the tip turbine. Its also a B75 long hood so 4 more Inches to work with under the hood and near the cowl. just an idea