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Posts posted by Lmackattack
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45 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:
I had the impression that you wanted a different clutch than a CL-75.
If they make a better modern clutch that simply replaces a CL75 I'm all ears.
But just don't want to have to swap flywheel or other expensive parts if it's just to get a higher rated clutch if it will never see more than 1200 ft lbs
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I have not considered anything because I literally know nothing about what clutch fits or can be retrofitted.
I'm just trying to keep it simple as this truck will never see more than 285-300hp. I just want a bolt on and go. If there is a reason to swap flywheel I will but if it's not necessary I wont.
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I want to order a new clutch for my 77. It has the 285 maxidyne with a rebuilt 12 speed that i will be installing soon.
My build sheet says it had a CL75 when new. Engine is original to the truck.
What clutch should I look for?. I know nothing about them besides how they work.
Thank you
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That 2 piece grill was used on early RS/RL 700s with the hood that was not as tall as the later RS/RL. Basically a R700 style hood where the tire to fender gap was very obvious.
The later model RS/RL hoods had lower fenders with taller hood sides thus reducing the tire to fender gap. These had a single piece grill.
The bar in question held the hood from flexing outward because the aluminum grill was not as rigid as the later single piece grill.
The 2 piece grill was on a hinge so the hood could tilt.
I suspect they moved away from the 2 piece grill because it was not as sturdy.
Heck even my late model RS700 hood with single piece grill will allow the hood to flex when opening in the wind.
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anyone know the size of the rear hub cap used on mack axles?
I think they are different than Eaton axles?
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Anyone watching it live on youtube.
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18 hours ago, JoeH said:
Claimed by @PMC, if anyone wants 2nd in line in case he falls through just let me know.
Let me know if it falls thru.
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I will add my .02
Mack camelback is a off road suspension. I never understood why mack kept pushing to sell it to all buyers use when most other truck builders pushed their buyers to air ride. Air ride is not just better for driver comfort but it also dont beat the truck to death either.
The E7 in my opinion is limited to a vocational engine by todays standards. they were reliable but once the E7 moved to electronic they were just gutless . thats probably why they were so reliable becase they were weak on power and thus seam to last longer. sure they will do the job but just not as efficiently as a big bore cat or detroit can. "no replacement for displacement"
The cab over parts will pretty much be a junk yard hunt so dont expect mack dealers to be of much use.
If you want a good solid nice truck look at years 2000-2007 Pete or KW. pre emission trucks with Cat 3406 or C13, C15 power. you pay more for a cat but I feel you get what you pay for. parts are still available for both truck and engines and you will be better off in most situations. I love my old macks but I dont think I would ever buy a newer mack. this is after company driving them and seeing how dated they are in the HP race and the difficulties it is to get some basic parts for them. When I drove a 2002 pete it was always a breeze to get parts from the pete dealer. not so much for a 2007 mack.
And someone asked about Gregg Hoffman and his MH. he is still driving it but it has a Cat in it now
I think Ray parked his MH and is driving for Walmart now for the Insurance.
Have a good one
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I have not looked behind the dash for the plug. That was one of my questions as if they would build the dash harness with it set up for a power window even if not installed
I will check the fuse panel to see if it has a slot available
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how difficult is it to swap from a manual to power window. Im just intrested in the Passenger window for now.
1) will the power regulator bolt in the stock door shell?
2) is there a special wire harness that can simply plug and play between the door,dash harness and the dash switch?
Thank you
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If you want mack rears and you currently have eaton then a complete axle swap is going to be cheaper in the long run. only thing to check at that point is if the axle tubes are the same size to accept any parts that clamp down on them to hold it to the suspension.
My opinion is to stay with eaton. far easier to get parts for these days. 20 years ago id dissagree with my current statement.
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🤡Get your popcorn ready and lets all have a laugh.🤡
NEWS FLASH.... it will be a re badged Volvo
but this time "Mack" (if you can still call them a truck company) will even share the same cab with volvo.
the stupidity of truck Mfg these days is impressive.
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Sold my B75 yesterday to a nice young Gentleman from Easter KY.
It was a cool old truck sitting up higher on a 78' R model Frame. but it had frame issues and I just didnt have the time to giver her what she needed. The kid already has a good western star frame with air ride rears and I think he might swap the B75 body and engine over into his good frame. This Truck has a 285 Tipturbine with a 5 speed and 3.87 rears. R model Steering and steering column that made it a breeze to turn. If had not been running since late october but we got it fired up pushing it with a cat excavator and he drove it up on the trailer. first time I had started it in winter temps and it was not too dificult all considering I was pushing with an excavator and had no speed with it.
It was refreshing to see a young man with intrest in the old Iron. even brought his grand dad with him for the 20hr round trip.
sad to see it go but hope this young man can do more with it than I can. Great guy if you know him
heres some photos I took yesterday
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If I remember right on the factory installed dual breather RW I Drove it had a reinforcment bracket on the passenger side similar to how the drivers side is.
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I know they suffered from the ho low range syncronizer. they often grinded between range changes. Not macks best transmission but when they were working right they were not all that bad for a road truck.
as far as value. they are not a popular option by people looking to swap in a diffrent transmission.
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2 hours ago, Freightrain said:
I will be doing a hood scoop of sorts to get some air under the hood by the turbine air cleaner. Ron has a Super duty Ford hood scoop on his B model. People think they are gold now so maybe an aluminum scoop from something car related. I will come up with something even if I have to make it.
Today's project....triplex assembly.
Larry My Blue B model has a driver side Air filter added to supply outside air to the tip turbine. Its also a B75 long hood so 4 more Inches to work with under the hood and near the cowl. just an idea
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Got the brakes to work today.
Pulled the valve off and found dirt dobbers got in there. It was packed in the valve and the lines as suspected. I got it cleaned up and sprayed it down with tool oil. The lines came off easy and it looks like the valve was brand new. No oil or grime in any of the ports.
While under it I pulled the drain valve on the tanks off and was pleasantly surprised to see a few cap fulls of clean oil drip out. Hopefully that helped protect them from rusting.
I put some tool oil in the red line and hooked it back up. Pushed in the trailer brake valve and they released.
I also put some new led tail lights on the rear so people can see me better. The wires in there.....brand new! No butt splice repairs anywhere!
I really think the trailer was completely rebuilt and then used just a few times before it was parked.
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didnt some of the early v8s use the quad box transmissions?
I think the B81s had that set up
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9 hours ago, Geoff Weeks said:Never heard of TN&C either and the .net doesn't have anything I can find either.
I can't tell from the pictures, but if the air lines are still copper (quite often what was used back then) there is a good chance they are plugged up. If so I'd pull new plastic line. Should be easy on that one with the only problem over the 5th wheel. May have to pull a few deck boards for access.
ext frame are great for lumber, and palleted material as the tend to "bow in and keep it tight together, but not as good for dense things like coils.
I towed many trailer of that vintage and older, I see it has the hole in the bulkhead for the 6 way as well as having a 7 way on it.
This trailer has all new plastic line from nose to the valves at the rear. then new rubber from the valves to the chambers. it has all been replaced. the kink pin plate has 2 holes to reach up into to loosen the pipe that the glad hands thread onto. I will have to repair them as I think their forklift hit them moving it around the yard
Even the wireing is all brand new. I replaced the old style bulb tail lights with LEDs today.. no butt connectors or any repairs found. all incased in new plastic conduit.
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If its the same engine I just posted about in a 2005 granite im currently in. I feel your pain. Probably the slowest truck I have ever driven besides my 65' Mack B model.
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Friend sent me a Marketplace link to it last week. We went and looked at it last tuesday and I made a deal for $2300. Title says its mfg by TN&C. I have never herd of them but looks well built. Its basicly rust free and a solid deck. Bulkhead is removable. looks like it was sandblasted and painted recently. 4 new parking/service cans, new shoes, hoses and valves. but the brakes wont release. I think its just dirt dobbers? Will need to troubleshoot that but im sure its easy. It will need some new tires but thats about it. Pulled it home today.
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Mack CL75 clutch.
in Antique and Classic Mack Trucks General Discussion
Posted
Haven't gone out to the store yet. Was going to pick your guys brains first to hear any real life opinions on the cl75 or any other options I may have