AZB755V8

10 hours ago, 761 Brock said:

since the panels are basically the same, maybe possible to do up a 700 series interior kit for Brockway. I know I'd be interested in a kit.........I'll try to post pics of what they look like, unless someone beats me to the punch..............

Don't think it would be that hard if I had templates. Was it the same cab as an R model?

3 hours ago, Quickfarms said:

I am interested in a kit for my 1975 Mack.

What can be done about the dash? I have a nice used one to install but I think it will look bad with a truly new interior.

Want color is your dash? I have a grey that will match it better than anything from the factory. There are some good spray on dye colors to freshen up any dash. I have to see but the material I use maybe can be glued to an existing dash with a little heating & stretching. 

1 hour ago, Dirtymilkman said:

These guys in Australia build them, but kinda pricey. TYLDEN HERITAGE

 

Yes I know that but I am talking about the USA and $1500 for a set. Most things can be gotten from somewhere if you want to pay the price then add shipping. Then have a problem and try and return it, LOL.

Add that together and it is really pricey and far more than I am talking by at least twice the $$$$.

Besides the AUS drive on the other side of the road, don't know if that would make a big difference. It would in kick panels and carpet.

I got Superliner front fender flares from AUS years ago. Paid $350 for the parts and $600 for shipping because of dimensional weight, actual weight was 12 pounds. If that is any indication shipping to the USA would be over $1000 for an interior kit now. Shipper will hits you up for the difference once it is delivered to you!

Really just asking if there was an interest if I started making kits to justify the expense of the equipment. I'm looking for customers, Ya Know 

11 minutes ago, Quickfarms said:

Is the headliner the full headliner or is it meant to use the plastic shelf in the front?

Can make it ether way, long or short! It will not be the preformed plastic insert. The backer is plastic instead of cardboard. Just have to screw or Ultra High Bond 3M double side tape it in. Using the plastic backer works great for two reasons, it does not distort with moisture and tape sticks to it real good. It is also more expensive than cardboard.  

20 minutes ago, david wild said:

well I honestly believe you better have some spare time because I know lot of people who all have looked for custom interiors for the RD, Daycab co. does everybody but Mack, I would expect you will  be real popular.

I talked to the Daycab company recently and they Only do Peterbilt, Kenworth and Western Star. Anywhere between $1500-2500. No Mack... I am a Mack guy and don't really have interest in what they do so all is good. I am just trying to figure out how popular producing interiors for 20 year old plus truck will be. Machinery cost $$ and have work to pay for it is nice to know before hand. 

19 minutes ago, david wild said:

I will buy and do you make anything for the CH like something nicer than the stock Mack stuff, 

Just starting up and the R model I have patterns for.

Other interiors I would have to see a few photos and get an old interior to work from. First is the R model.

Found out and it has to do with the year truck was made. 

55QS23 Curved handle was used up to 1979

55QS29309A Straight handle was used after 1979

Makes sense that the A designation is usually a revision for Mack

Both worked with the padded interior door panels with no rubbing. Extra clearance with the 55QS29309A  Found these online, New for $21 each with pins and Free shipping.

By the way there are two different window crank handles.

What is the correct interior door handle for a 1989 RW Superliner?

I got one of both, one on each door. These are the numbers on the back of the parts:

55QS23  Curved Handle

55QS23309A  Straight Handle

Both doors are the same glass. A good glass shop is your best bet. If you have the old piece even cracked they can use it for a template. Had to have that done for an L cab. If you need tinted windshield glass I have a set OEM in the box, let me know.

No one said Mack stuff was cheap. Most of it is built well but rust and corrosion protection was not a high priority until they started to galvanize R model metal cabs, fiberglass for the MH. All else was left to the elements. 

You want to play with the big dogs, buck-up. PAI has stuff but not everything. You can stay on the porch and whine like a school girl otherwise, or search for parts. I am constantly looking. LOL 

There are a few here that have parts but this is not the place for everything you may need. Some really good advise here as well.

You ain't  messing with a Yugo here. Good used parts are fine to, just have to find them which is half the fun of keeping these trucks road worthy if your's is a hobby truck. Work truck, got to have the parts now to keep them working and pay the price.

I have had good luck with MH parts at Mack. Even got new windshields and gasket for reasonable price. Yes the prices are list but I have a relationship with a counter guy or two and get 15-20% off. Have to look but the lower box maybe MH specific. The tops are the same as most R models, with several finish options.  Unless yours are really bad weld a 3/16" plat in the bottom and let it go, buy new tops, that is what everyone sees anyway.

Sure, cut the old rails behind the cab after the fish belly about 3-4 feet past. Cut the new rails to slip over the old, splice should be about 3-4 feet. New rail should go right against the widening fishbelly. Top of new frame will be about 5/16 higher than before. Have enough room to bolt a crossmember at each end of the splice. Weld the end of each frame together. Have photos of this if you need, was done to my 88 Superliner. Old rails 9.5 new rear 10.5 high and can hardly tell it was spliced. Plus the wheel base was extended to 245" 

2 hours ago, Ditchdiggerjcf said:

I would pay that for a full R interior right now. I need 4.

PM me.

I can do a panel for you to review and start production.

6 hours ago, Ditchdiggerjcf said:

There needs to be a solid supplier for all the interior and trim parts for the R models. I don't know why the people that make the B model stuff won't step up.

Up until a few years ago a lot of the R model parts were available from Mack. When I started accumulating parts for my B it was at the 25 year old mark and parts were getting harder to get. Same for my 89 Superliner, got stuff from Mack until a few years ago, about 25 years after production for that model stopped. One big thing is in 2000 Volvo took over and most of the Pre-2000 Mack factory parts have been depleted by now & by design not coincidence. 

Most of the B model stuff is gone too. What is left is expensive or cheap Chinese knockoffs. A lot of the guys that were interested and made the parts are retired and the diminished demand makes for low profit so why do it to feed the family? Lancaster Upholstery did make interior kits for B & L cabs but can not get the tan material anymore. I was thinking of making R model interiors by actually stitching them instead of heat setting the vinyl. Why? because I have the machine to do it that way and have the knowledge to do it. Lastly I don't need to feed the family as I am retired and would do it as long as it was fun. Even doing it this way in the USA a full R Model kit in any color would be around $1800- $2000. After paying for material and labor to make it happen and me to get $200-250 per kit. They would not be original but what I could do with the equipment I have, it would be better than factory... but who would buy these kits? Could get it done in China for far less but not by me. 

The stuff can be made but by who and for how much? The people you talk about in this country are gone as well as the materials and manufacturing skills, sorry to say. 

6 hours ago, Ditchdiggerjcf said:

Seriously thinking about this. There are parts for B models all over the place, but almost nothing for an R. R model cab was used up until mid 2000's so there is and will be demand for awhile. I was hoping PAI would fill the void, and they do in some instances, but more is needed. R model interior parts are near nonexistent, emblems, western style parts, grilles, sheet metal for cab repair, etc...

I cannot find a vendor for these parts.

It's called Volmack. No need to keep older Macks around with their mentality. Volvo is not supporting something they had no involvement in. Better get the parts you can now, when there gone their gone for sure. R models are great trucks!

5 hours ago, james j neiweem said:

Why were the E9's able to pull so well? They were out torqued by the big block Cummins and Cats. Was it RPM's gearing etc.

It is well know that  there is claimed horsepower & torque then there is real horsepower & torque. The other engine manufactures claimed it Mack really made it.

The E9 stock had a low 1900rpm governor as compared to 2400rpm with the older ENDT866. Govern an E9 at 2500rpm, add a turbo or two, like the military version and look out it came alive with 750-950hp reliably and dependably.

There are many stories of a 350 Mack out pulling a 400 or 425hp of this or that engine maker. Same for the E9 way more than a few stories of just seeing tail lights and a distinct sound passing by. I think Mack under rated more than a few of their engines to sort of keep place with the pack. The E9 was sure capable of more than 500hp and easily be tuned to do so as a few guys knew how to. This was back when all injection pumps were mechanical and a simple screw turn could make a big difference. Emissions had to do with engine ratings & fuel consumption with lower being better, Right? Who actually tested individual truck as they do now back then?  

In Detroit Ford, Chrysler & GM played games with HP & Torque rating of the 426 and 427 big blocks. All the Hi-performance engine were rated at 425-450hp but most put out more. Think in this case it was a governmental and insurance line that had to be towed and not exceeded.  

1 minute ago, j hancock said:

1951 Mack LTL now with Cummins power replacing the original Hall Scott gasoline engine.

LTL2D1452

Holly Crap Batman! That is Itchy's first LTL, use to be a wrecker, The Great Pumpkin. Still has his old phone number on the door. Glad to see it still around. Boy it's got some history!

Great looking survivor!

Got to this post a little late but the bright finish ceramic powder coat is the way to go. Right from the powder coat shop it looks good. It takes a few days to have done not months like chrome and a fraction of the cost plus it holds up well. If you take a good aluminum polish to it, it is hard to tell it from chrome.

I was just polishing the stack and guard on my LTL that was ceramic powder coated, tank straps too. It looked good before but great after. Just look at my resent LTL post, before the polish and see. Other thing is use the chrome nut covers to dress up the hubs and pinch bolt nuts, it really makes a difference, done on the LTL also with painted cones.

22 minutes ago, mowerman said:

Truck is gorgeous love the color both Plymouth are really nice too but fury was always one of my favorites I remember when you could buy them all day long for nothing ha ha..bob

Thanks for liking, Fury, you say Fury... Bought this 1960 conv. for the wife to restore, she likes convertibles. She lost interest before I got to it, thank God, wanted a new Vett conv, instead. I sold it back to the same guy I got it from after 10 years. He was happy to get it back, raccoon and rat crap still in place from when I got it. He told me what he paid for it when he bought it back, your right on the nothing thing!