I am going to start another topic: Hot Dogs, Can't Run Stay on the Porch.

I stayed off this forum for some time from the shake-up but want liven up things a little with some like minded Mackholics. Lets talk Hot Dogs!!

1 hour ago, Vladislav said:

Sounds like a cool (oh sorry, hot) deal on that Bosch pump. Renault Magnum was a pretty common truck in Europe but was taken off the production a few years back so I suppose they will leave the highways soon. Actually many trucks already moved to cheaper regions starting from Poland and further East. Also the matter is high costs on the rebuild parts puts many owners of the V8 models to decition to change the truck or an engine. So European E9's has tendency to dissappear in the distant future. Speaking the inline pumps I belive it's quite common part on European spares market. And V8 style is no doubt hens teeth.

A question. How are you going to get 800HP (if not a top secret stuff) using 520HP pump? I grabbed a giant locally a couple months back. Poor shape but cheap. Going to ask a few questions but the project is on a back burner so far.

It used to be TOP SECRET stuff. Sort of like keeping the HOT ROD tricks and secrets to gaining horse power in a small block Chevrolet from others. It doesn't matter now to many guys. When there was someone to compete against it mattered. It does matter to the Tractor and Truck sled pulling crowd and much is still secret for huge diesel power. Mack E9's have almost gone out of existence even at those events.

The NEW pump that I just received is calibrated at 500hp & 1900RPM high speed limit but recalibrated is good for 900hp and any RPM up and over 6000 limits. Any mechanical pump has a range of fuel delivery and governor speed that can be set at a reputable injection pump shop.

I am only talking for Mack E9's and if someone want to chime in please do. There are a some here that know more than I do, I hope to learn something as well. The E9 will produce a lot of power if it is taken care of. The length of time it can be producing large amounts of power is dependent on a even larger amount of variables, Temperatures and Pressures are critical, coolant, charge air, intercooling, oil, EGT and on.

This engine was developed and spec'd by a Mack engineer, Steve Trevitz, that was instrumental in the E9 development at Mack Hagerstown. He was the factory E9 Hot Rod Guy. It will make 1500hp and close to 4000ft/lbs of torque @ 4000RPM. So that is double factory maximum governor limits and triple the fuel settings. There is more that is done but this is enough for now. Like sizing turbo, nozzles, fuel lines, charge pump volume and pressure, etc that have to work together.

It starts with the injection pump. It is mainly the size of the plungers and barrels that inject the fuel into the engine. I have 11, 12, 13 and 14mm diameter pumps these are 12 & 14mm pumps. There are even larger pumps available but for competition use only.

Just to say stock unmodified pumps are good for:

11mm (V-Pump)  good to 650hp

12mm (P-Pump)   good to 900hp

13mm (P-Pump)   good to 1500hp this is the one on the engine above.

14mm (P-Pump)   good to 2200-2500hp this is only a race or off road item and is modified.

Alone with that nozzles need to be sized correctly and the all important Turbo.

All of these pumps can make more power but have to be modified and that is the SECRET STUFF in the injection pump shop....

3 hours ago, Brian L Blaylock said:

My two trucks with the 865 have the power steering reservoir made on the pump and the Superliner with the E-9 has a separate reservoir mounted elsewhere does anyone know if this is because of a different engine model or different model truck 

The difference in steering pumps is the truck not the difference in the engine.

The difference is the steering box oil requirements. The old F, R, U and others had lower oil supply need to operate and the reservoir was attached to the pump. I have a single a double steering box truck with E9's for power. The double steering box pump and separate reservoir is considerably larger than the single steering box unit. 

2 hours ago, D-Day said:

The 864 is long gone as well as the original trans  I will measure the input shaft on the triplex for length but I still have plenty of time for that I also need to do a little sheet metal work and convert the windshield seal to the older frame type for the L cab will the E-9 power steering pump work as well as the drive gears and compressor 

I would think they are interchangeable little 856cu/in to big E9. they have the same auxiliary drive housing. I have both but never took time to compare the two. 

9 minutes ago, D-Day said:

No power steering pump on the engine either just a block off plate I was hoping to use a triplex trtl 722 that came with a b73 I have but not sure what I will have to do there

If you still have the 864 it is a double disc clutch. The tranny has to be for a double disc clutch as used on 864/865/866 as the input shaft is longer than a standard Triplex or Quad box. Hope you still have the double disc tranny. If not you will have to go with a newer longer input tranny used behind the newer engines V8 & 6's with that double disc pusher clutch setup. The old single disc will not hold 600ft/lbs of torque.

4 minutes ago, D-Day said:

That sure is a great B755 I have the L cab and its awaiting space in the shop for restoration still gathering missing pieces I found a running 865 maybe 866 but can't get to the numbers just yet to see the air compressor is missing and I also need to figure out power steering mine has a factory shepherd power steering box I was told the air compressor may be different depending on what year and engine number

Only real difference between a 865 & 866 is the injection pump settings and the stamping on the oil pan rail. No difference in the air compressor that I know of think it is a Bendex 500 Trueflow. I may have one laying around. You got the power steering pump? There were several different ones for the V8's. The hardest thing to find is the drive gears for the compressor and pump.

35 minutes ago, D-Day said:

great score I'm glad you were lucky and proud to share it with the rest of who are still hunting for such things

See you got a B755 LS. The one I got has a 866 375hp and a Quad in it. What are you hunting for?

I would recommend a Borg Warner Airwerks Turbo. A SX300 or maybe a small SX400 would defiantly add a kick in the rear to the old dog. I do not mess with E6's but it is simply matching what you got with 25 year newer technology. You need to measure the intake diameter and exhaust diameter of the turbo. The other thing is the A/R number on the exhaust turbine housing. If these three things are known a turbo can be selected that will run circles around the stock one. Adding a turbo blanket helps also. Boost should be in the range of 50psi plus. Maybe turn the fuel up 10% and it will run like never before.

http://donwilbur.com/uploads/3/4/5/1/34514782/edited/1948-mack-ramp.jpg?1575419857

Found this by chance, no relation. Listed only as a 1948 Mack but is surly not. Looks like a complete B-73, L Cab and maybe a diamond in the rough. Has heavy cone axle rear. Make Offer....

www.donwilbur.com is where it is listed   Located in Oregon

6 hours ago, B815SX said:

I’m Interested In The Twin Turbos If You Still Have Them You Can Call Me At 978-423-4213 Thanks

Sorry, the turbo's are long gone. All of the B and LT parts I had recently sold as well. Down to just complete trucks now.

On 11/11/2020 at 5:51 PM, Pearsonn said:

Are you going to do this. I have sent you two replies 

No, Not at this time. Covid has all but shut down my business. 

From experience a mouse nest is not needed to have the condition you are describing. As said a valve or two is open at anytime in an engine just sitting. Water and moisture are usually the root cause of a stuck engine, be it gas or diesel. It takes a small amount to do damage to a cylinder liner, piston and rings over years of sitting. How the water/moisture gets into the cylinder is more a concern that what it has done to the cylinder. Most of the time it is though an open intake or exhaust valve. Removing the manifolds would tell that story. Other things that can happen are a leak in the head gasket or a crack in the piston sleeve for these wet sleeve engines. A cracked head is possible as well. I have had all of these issues over the years. An E9 ran great when it was pulled, I did not drain the block and stored it for several years in a temp controlled building. Pulled it down for rebuild recently and one cylinder had about a tablespoon of coolant in it. Liner was rust stained, small pits and under inspection had a 1 1/2" crack in it just above where the piston sat for years. It is hard to get a scope bent around to see the cylinder walls when putting it down the injector hole epecially if the rust is high in the cylinder. My bet is this condition, even if you get it unstuck there maybe ring, sleeve and piston corrosion damage.

For oil filters it is not uncommon to have several oil filters on a truck. The large one with 1" lines is a full flow filter right from the oil pump. The smaller one is normally a bypass filter for other engine functions.

Sure, there are several ways to do it. Depends how good the fit is between the male and female parts. If there are groves worn into the female parts putty or cement is best. I think the actual seal rings from Mack are NLA. If you want to take the time get a piston ring catalog from Total Seal or some other ring manufacture, measure the female diameter and width of groove on the male and order rings to match, not the same as Mack parts but will work. Let us know what part numbers you come up with.

If that is more than you want to do and have deep grooves in the parts get some boiler putty or wood stove seal cement. Got to leave it sit over night then run it up over 600 degrees for a while on the pyro the next day to cure, should be fine until next time.  

On 5/7/2020 at 2:44 PM, scoofa said:

Does it sit flat on the table or is it rounded to fit the hood?

I have one that is flat on the bottom for display have never seen a rounded bottom gold base.

The Gold one I have is flat on the bottom to sit flat on a surface. I can cut it to match the one already on the Superliner though.

Nice!

There is a lot to work with there. If I didn't have one it would be mine. New wheels and tires on it are about half the asking price.

If someone here gets it I got two fenders that are perfect to go on it in primer. Had then for my LTL but I have a really good set on it now.

Wow!

On 9/16/2020 at 10:03 AM, nicste said:

Looking for some help on the original layout of our R797 dash and interior in general. Anyone for any pictures or ideas, thanks in advance

 

That Steering wheel looks like new, no cracks anywhere. Only my observation for Originality but it is on the wrong side of the truck  

On 9/12/2020 at 4:29 PM, 1wonton said:

Dayton rims. What would be the tallest tire and rim compared to the original 1100 24?

This is your answer to the question Dayton or Bud hubs? Sorry for thinking you had Dayton hubs to go with Dayton rims. My misunderstanding.

Just my ignorance but I have never come across a 24 inch Bud rim. 20 and 22 tube type,22.5 and 24.5 tubeless inch yes. But 24 inch no.

You got a photo of the tire and rim? 

CEAT tires are on my truck and put on it about 15 years ago and are not made by CEAT anymore.

The ML tires are available in the 11.00-24 size are from Specialty Tires of America and their contact info is:

38 minutes ago, 1wonton said:

Sorry for being so dense but when you say "easiest thing to get new 1100-24 rubber on it" do you mean 24.5 rims and tires?

 

 

ron

No I do not mean 24.5 rims as they will not fit on 24 inch spoke hubs. What I am saying is changing to a new rim/tire size is a lot of work and finding the part for a 60 year old truck is not that easy ether.

The easiest thing is replace the old tires with new ones of the same size and type. A tubeless tire can not be mounted on a tube type rim even with a tub, the lip is a different design. As fare as the STA tire it is period "time" correct for the age of your truck and you need to call STA to get price and availability, they may have front tires but only special order. The 10.00-22 tires that I run are around $450 a piece there which is not that high in my book. That cost is far less $$ and time than to convert everything over to a different size and type of hub "Budd type or spoke of a different size" if parts can be found. For a hobby truck these tire will be more than fine at lease for the rears. If nothing else is available for 11.00-24 fronts a capable tire shop can buff or cut a traction tire down to look correct for a steer tire for about $100 each. Glad to help