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Porch Pup
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Everything posted by Brandt

  1. I have a TRTXL1070B (12 spd) with the air switch on the dash. My set up allows you to use the dash switch to go into deep reduction. With this switch engaged the stick stays in the "first" gear position. I can air shift the stick to 2nd, then throw the dash switch and airshft the stick back to normal "first" if I need to. Usually I just go from Deep reduction 2nd to normal second gear. I'm sure there is correct terminology for what I am saying - I just don't know it!!
  2. Looking at regearing and getting away from the spoke hubs. Found a cut-off set in a salvage yard today for $2500. They are from a 2003 Mack (mdl unkn) and have a 3.94 gearing, hub pilot. I like the idea of a smoother ride but will the air ride be stable enough and durable enough for a 12 yd dump truck?? Having just changed the air springs on my Western Star - they are 1000% easier than changing a leaf or leaf pack on a camelback. I am thinking of putting the air ride set up under a '91 RD 690 that currently has camelback. The spec sheet calls my axles SS440C and the carrier CRDPC92/CRD93. Does this mean they are 44K axles?? They are 4.42 gears.
  3. Ken tools also makes a 54" bar like the one linked to above. I find the 54" bar takes less energy to use and for a old kodger like me, I'll take all the help I can get. The flat spoon irons work well too but you need 1 of the above and 2 flat spoons, then nothing is impossible. The vaseline type lube works better than the dish soap type lube.
  4. My DD Series 60 says I am getting 7.46 mpg. If I put pencil to paper I am getting 6.78. I'm gonna try fuel gauges on Lets Truck, but don't believe your ECM. My IFTA report is more accurate.
  5. No dog in this hunt, but saw them in a flyer that I get. http://www.auctiontime.com/OnlineAuctions/Details.aspx?LP=trk&lot=3727&ltf=attachment
  6. No problem yet. It came on a dolly that I bought. I plan on pulling a pup with it and wanted to know how to adjust it before I went to pick up the pup. I'd hate to travel the 400 miles to the pup location and find out it doesn't lock up or is adjusted too tight. As long as it works, I'll keep it, until it doesn't. At that point, parts may be impossible to find and I will replace it w/ one from a salvage yard.
  7. The Holland rep came back and said that it is a Dayton Walther fifth wheel. Apparently Fontaine owned the name in 1987 and Holland sometime after that. I think parts support is pretty thin right now - except in Europe where they seem popular. They also seem popular with the US Military. Of course the gov't would buy them - overpriced and no parts support (or very expensive part support)!!
  8. I contacted both Holland and Fontaine. Turns out it is a Holland with no adjustment. The rep is checking for rebuild parts.
  9. The tag just states the S/N By the bolt on the front, are you saying the rod that sticks out of the front?? I'll look again, but I didn't see any threads on it. I was thinking tha adjustment was the bolt just in front of the crotch. But then there is another bolt at about 2 o'clock from the crotch??
  10. Can anybody tell me the Make (model too) and how to adjust this fifth wheel??
  11. I'm running 22.5" spokes. Rims and hubs will get expensive. I have 22.5 tires on my Western Star and trailer. I would rather stay with one tire size.
  12. Thanx. I'll be home in a week, I'll check all of the above.
  13. I have 4.42's w 11R 22.5 tires. I run 1875rpm at 65mph. I have a .78 OD I'd like to re-gear to run 1500 at 65mph
  14. A DOT inspector probably thinks that you need them
  15. Randomly my high beams shut off and leave me in the dark. The time that they work and the time that they are off varries from 30 seconds to 4 minutes. They even shut off on smooth roads and while sitting still. Is there a relay that could be overheating and tripping open?? If so, where would this relay be located? Anything else I should look for??
  16. When I turn my high beams on they work Ok for a while then they shut off - Leaving me in the Dark!! I have tried to time them and it varies from 30 seconds on 5 seconds off to 4 minutes on and 10seconds off. They also shut off and on while traveling on smooth roads and while sitting still. My initial guess was a relay that was getting hot and shutting itself off. Is there a high beam relay?? If so, where is it?? Any other ideas on where to start looking?? Now that the days are getting longer it isn't that big of deal. But, I do want to use the brights to avoid the deer, if I have to drive at night. I'm gonna move this to the Electrical and Lighting section
  17. I'm interested in getting Lockers for my RD. Can I get the parts from a driveline shop or do I have to get them thru Mack. I have 23K Mack diffs. Does anybody know an approx. cost for parts?? Sorry, the "bold" is locked on and I don't know how to get it off.
  18. OK, I'll disconnect before welding. Still not sure on weather I have an ECM or not. I do have an electronic fuel pedal but don't know if it is just electronic for fuel or the full monty.
  19. This is a stupid question, but when did Mack start using computers on their engines?? Did they go complete computer control or did they phase it in with a fuel computer but not a full blown ECM?? The next question is: If my truck does not have ANY computer on it, can I weld on it w/o disconnecting the batteries?? I have a '91 EM7 300
  20. You can on an Eaton, I would assume you could on a Mack. Generally a shop will have bought or made a jig for keeping everything lined up going back in.
  21. +1 on what 84 Superdaog said. With all the "baggage" on this truck I would look for a pre-03 DD. From what I have heard an EGR Detroit is hit or miss as a good engine. Some pull good and get 7.5 mpg, others can't outrun a '66 VW bus and get 4.5 mpg. If I were gambling with $30K I would get an '02 or older. I will take my '99 Western Star with a 12.7 DD to the grave with me (and there will still be life left in the truck!!)
  22. With 4.42's mine runs: 55mph = 1600 60mph = 1740 65mph = 1875 Mine is a TRTXL 1070B 12 spd w.78 OD and 11R-22.5 tires
  23. Usually a syncho - especially if it does it when the trans is cold.
  24. I think the OP used the word underpowered and was referring to HP rating. I didn't read the whole thread but it is my belief the Mack rates the HP where the rubber meets the road. Other HP is rated at the crankshaft. Detroit, Cat and Cummins don't know what type of driveline you are putting behind their engine, so they can't rate it at the rear wheel. Generally you loose 60-75 HP going thru the trans and diffs, so a 427 Mack is actually around 500 at the crankshaft. A 427 Mack will show you 427 HP on a dyno. A 425 Cat or 430 Detroit will show you approx 360-375 on a dyno. If you are using an RTLO trans my 500 Detroit shows 460 on the dyno. The "L" in the trans model means it is a LOW inertia trans and doesn't rob as much HP.
  25. I have a 1070B 12 spd. The info the dealer told me was it has an .78 OD FYI: The taller the OD the less fuel efficient you are. Ideally a direct with 2.90's or 3.08 gears ... would be best.
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