Noid93

I have had my truck act similar. If i got into the acellerator hard it would lose all power for one second and then return as normal. My truck does it if i am putting excessive force on the accellerator pedal. If i am going up a big hill and by natural reaction i push down on the throttle way harder than is needed, as if it will give me just enough more power to make the hill without shifting down. It might not hurt to check the wires that connect to the acellerator and look for corrosion or a bad connection or even just a wire that is pinched. Hope this helps. Let us know what you find or what solved the problem.... Noid93

Performance Parts Depot has the best price on the Blixxton chip.... Thats where i bought it... $285 plus shipping.... click heavy equipment veihicles.... then more info at the bottom... and the blixxton mac is the one... Any question, feel free to call... CURT 715-495-9383

I dont belive that there is a difference between the dynatard valve cover and the regular covers... Just about any E6 cover should fit. If you need one bad, Maxville should have one, but there are probally more closer than up here in wisconsin... Hope this helps... CURT

I rebuilt my injectors on 97 ch and the compression washers that set betweens the injector tip and head that were given to me were old stock and had been updated to a narrower washer for a better seal. Anyway, i put the injectors in and there was a little carbon in the holes, and when i started the SOB, and sure enough, there was compression leaking into the drivers tank, the tank that draws and has the return line in it. I ended up getting the new style washers and cleaning the holes real good. Sounds just like my issue. IF THERE IS A FOG OR HAZE IN THE TANK, THERE IS COMPRESSION IN THERE. Once i fixed the problem, the haze went away. Or take off the retun line and see if there is only fuel coming back or if there is air in there too.. As you stated, mine built ALOT of pressure in the tanks... I have seen some tank setups where there is no breather on the draw tank so it uses fuel out of the secondary tank first and then the primary tank. If compression is leaking back it must go out the secondary tank to escape out the breather, after it pushes the fuel out of its way.

There Can be a number of reasons, but the most common one i have found is: Being an RB modle, i bet you have float tires. Float tires are so wide that if the wheels turned as far as possible to the right, they would rub on the drag link. This is the most common reasons i have found on alot of trucks. The only way to help this problem is to adjust the bump stops so the tires are closer to the drag link, but keep in mind when the suspension moves, the tires may rub and may wear out parts faster. Hope this helps Noid93

When i checked the toe, i had the front axle in the air. From what i have heard, you are to check the toe with weight on the axle, drive ahead 10 or so ft, and not slam the brakes to or jar the suspension. If im thinking correctly, when i checked it it was less than 1/4 inch hanging, so by the time i put weight on it and such it should be 1/16 to 1/8. To do a quick check like i did, with the wheels in the air, i painted a ring all the way around the tire tread with spray paint, held a flat screw driver on the paint very still while someone else rotated the tire to etch a line on the paint, then proceeded to check distance on the front of the tire and on the rear with a difference of <1/4 inch. Let me know if this procedure sounds right.

Yeah that is alot of potatoes. My timpte trailer(72 in sides, 42 ft long, 96 in sides and ag tubs for ground clearance), is heaped plum full and can gross 92,000+/- 500 lbs every load. Anyway........ EXTRA EXTRA...... UPDATE Today i installed new shocks, dismounted the tires, took out the equal(balancing powder), remounted with the wore sides in, had them spin balanced($60)??? with lead weights, installed centramatic wheel balancers, and bolted them back on. The very little shimmy i had when i went down the road between 55 and 65 has completely gone away. Tip of my hat to centramatic.. Great buy at $155. Upon inspection i ended up doing a wheel seal on the drivers side. I will try to keep you updated on how these mods work out. Thanks for all your help everyone, BUT PLEASE DO NOT STOP ADDING TO THIS POST. EVERY THING MENTIONED I WILL LOOK AT AND LEARN MORE AND MORE FROM. ANY OTHER IDEAS, PLEASE PLEASE POST.. Thanks again, Curt NOID93

If anyone knows how to delete a double posting, let me know.

I am having problems with the front steer tires on my truck. The outside inch on both tires are wearng much faster than the rest of the tires. It just started to get bad on the last half of the tread on the steers. This is the research i have done. I have a 200 inch wheel base, and im not sure if the short wheelbase adds to these problems(especialy turning). 1) The tow in/out is towed in 1/4 inch(perfect) 2) King pins are tight, less than 1/32 of an inch play(jacked up the front axle and wiggled tires by inserting a bar in the holes on the rims) 3)Rear tires are not cutting/cupping in any excessive way. 4) The past two weeks we have been hauling potatoes about 300 mi one way across some very cupped roads(pavement has settled where your tires run) in excess of 90,000 lbs gross wt.. One to two loads a day. 5) The passanger side now has two flat spots next to each other on this outside inch. 6) My fifth wheel plate has been staying fairly well lubricated(lucas fifth wheel lube). 7) Im only carring less than 12500 lbs on the front axle every load consistanly. 8) It does not pull quickly in any direction if i let go of the wheel. Is it just a set of poor tires being getting wore out, the cupped roads or where i drive on the roads(putting the pass tire on the edge of the hump in the road), or a combo... I just here horror stories about trucks going to an alignment shop and them telling people the bushing are OUT in the rear end. By visual inspection, all my bushings are looking good in all the torque rods an adjusting rods. What does it mean to "have the bushings out????". I have a hendrickson air ride rear suspension. HAS 400 or similar. If any body can tell me what to check or look at to see if i can diagnose this myself without a $1000 visit to an alingment shop i would appriciate it. Thanks for your time guys... CURT NOID93 CHECK THIS OUT AND TELL ME WHAT YOU THINK. http://www.bridgestonetrucktires.com/us_en...ctor_wear.asp#2

I would first start at the solenoids. 1....Take the valve covers off, and with the engine running, push down on the top of one of the solenoids with your hand, if the engine labors, the flow of oil to the solenoid is good. Do the same to the other solenoid. 2....Jump power to the wires on the solenoids also. If the engine labors, the solenoids are working..(the solenoids on a negative ground system neeed to be charged with positve power to engage them) 3....Check for continuity between all the switches and components(micro switch on throttle and clutch) jump power one switch at a time to eliminate a bad switch 4....See if appling power to the dash switch engages the dynatard. If it does, then as you stated, there is no power at the switch. Check the wire going to the switch from the fuse panel 5.... The fuse pannel on a r600 is located behind the pannel directly in front of the passanger seat on the dash.(although they should be self reseting circut breakers) That would be a start to diagnosing the problem.

I worked on a truck in Maxvilles shop that had a fully syncro'd tranny. Big sticker that said "always engage the clutch when shifting gears to prevent transmission damage". Early 90 s volvo (conventional set back axle heavy speced milk truck) with volvo engine and butterfly valve engine brake. Neat truck for those who desire that setup. THE ONLY FULLY SYNCRO'S TRANNY I HAVE EVER SAW, BUT THEY MAKE THEM!!!!!!

I have been told that the e-7 engines with v-mac have a tendency to rev and operate at full advance until oil pressue adjusts the timing in the injection pump when started cold at almost any ambiant temp. The colder it is, the longer it does this. I am wondering if there is any way to stop the rough running(adj timing manually) when i start it cold. I know im not the only V mac II owner who has this issue. Thanks for your time... CURT

Unless the destroking process on the air compressor takes longer than the purge, It will continue to pump air untill the destroking valve hold the valves open on the air compressor. Just had a 3176 cat in a t600 KW (part of Maxvilles fleet) that would continue to pump all day long. The culprit, a collapsed line from a governor to the compressor, but if your mack is like mine, the gov is bolted to the comp. Also, The o rings on the destroking valves could be old and cracked, I just ordered a "destroking kit" for the bendix tf 550 air compressor on that cat(the same as on my truck) that consists of a gasket and push rods with new o rings for a whole 15 dollars. Those valves are just under the cover on the head of the comp(right on top). If you need i can get a part #. Let me know.

As goes the tranny battle, I have not found a quick fix for the reverse problem. PS. Its a 13 spd. I get buy as is, but i was just wondering if this has happend to any one else. I think its pretty clear to a tranny expert like yourself what would be wrong, but no ones got a quick remedy. I will probally run it until it becomes unoperable. If i need a clutch in the slow winter season i may tear it down, but it aslo has a few noisy gears(not major but still there) so i may not be to far off from a reman exchange deal. The noisiest gears are tenth(4 and 8 hole on the under drive) and eleventh (same hole just with the H/L box in direct. Its louder in one than the other. It just makes me wonder if i have just the right/wrong combo of speed and bearings making just the right resignation making it that way. I apreicate all the help from you guys. THANKS ALOT CURT

I KNEW I WOULD FIND IT...... If you want the info that the manufacturers have, you must have the data that they, the engine makers, use. Now I have had a look at this book, and i find it to be the best. I find an engine manufacturer and this book gives you the minimum requirements that they need. Then they show which oils match meet or exceed OR lacks the amout needed. Its simple. If you have a _____ engine, It give check marks on which oils meet its needs. The base number is given for each oil also and as in my other post, it tells me if it is a real bargan to buy cheaper oil and more filters, or change less and spend more.. ENGINE MANUFACTURERS ASSOCIATION ENGINE FLUID DATA BOOK http://www.enginemanufacturers.org/info/pu...k_orderform.pdf ITS $110 BUCKS BUT WHEN I USED IT AT SCHOOL, IT OPENED MY EYES TO THE TRUTH ABOUT OILS. Everyone in my class thought shell rotella t was great oil. Even i was suprised to see that it meets very few major engine manufacturers needs on oils. Hope this helps, it educated me on oils...

I usually just do it once a year, unless its really dirty(metal finlings, changes colors, etc). I would compare it to rotating tires or changing coolant(who does that?). You know if it needs to be done or not. I would by no means go over two years without changing oils in those. I dont care how much the oils cost, just figure how much a rear end or tranny costs vs a couple hundred dollars in oil. Get an oil analisyst done will tell wether the oil has deteriorated....

Schaffers!!!!! Find a dealer and see the demo, you will never belive how pure friction can be defeated by a quality oil. As for shell rotella T, I wouldnt run that in my 90 ford escort GT(its a real gem). I wish i could remember the book of independent studies done on oils that break them down based on contents such as ash and others.(anyone help me out if you know) The studies rated each oil with a base number. If the base number was 10, you could run at 100% of normal intervals such as 10000mi on heavy on road diesel, or 3000mi in your family cruiser. Lets say your base # was a 8.3, you were only to run on 83% of recomended interval(8300 mi). Anyway the rotella T was rated i belive in the 7 somethings. Now i am a touch bias to the schaffer oil since i saw the dealers demo on it( ive seen the ams oil and others but this was simple friction(a wheel on an electric motor with an amp meter and a timken bearing roller on a lever that pushed aginst the wheel)). Ask yourself this, Is mack in the business of making oil to get rich? No. The build a damn fine truck with great components and they want them to last as long as the name Mack has. So when they design an oil to run in there engines, it is formulated to ensure longevity of its components. If your mack engine need to be rebuilt at a rediculusly low hour/milage, are you going to blame the engine or your oil??? What im saying is, Mack has a great name, and they want to uphold it, so mack makes oil to help uphold there name. And for what you may save by running a cheaper oil, will be lost with the shorter change intervals( if you follow the base numbers) and filters. I WILL TRY TO FIND THE NAME OF THAT STUDY WITH THE OILS IN IT.

10-4 Driver, This all sounds correct. One thing i did when i questioned 80w90 in my mack trans was call the dealer. It was easy to tell that it was conventional gear oil in there but you never know what the last guy may have put in it. Two minutes on the phone and there was my answer. Now i am all 80w90 in my driveline(mack rears) but i know your call on the trans is correct. The rears if you pull the plug to check the level it should be fairly easy to tell the difference between the 75w90 and the conventional just by color and smell. We all know the ragged smell of 80w90 but the synthetic i would say has a more golden redish color and the smell is not as curdling. To be on the safe side, call the dealer and ask...

i got a 97 mack ch @ factory 400 hp pulling hopper bottom short haul(45 miles a shot) on hilly back roads all day pullin 80-84K with a fair amout of idling time and i pull a constant 6.4 or better mpg in the summer. I did ad a box to boost power ten or thirty percent at the flip of a switch and been pulling about the same mpg( its been on the high setting for a while now). Id say pulling dry van that the last posts reply is not out of line. When i pulled cattle pot i used to pull off 6.7 and those things pull hard empty. Dont sound like a bad deal.. How much is he asking?????? t2130 trans(25% over dirve) LP 24.5, and 3.87 ratio, 1400 rpm @ 60mph

GREAT NEWS, Just got my drive shaft fixed.... CHEAP. Found a new takeoff intermediat shaft at a boneyard for $100. 2 cuts, one weld, one balance....... $85!!!!!! Pretty good price for the repairs especialy on a saturday. JR Advanced Driveline out of Chippewa Falls, WI.... 715-726-1181 Will ship most any where..

A dyno test tests hp at the wheels, not at the motor, and i have been told that generaly you lose up to 10% of power per set of gears(i think thats a bit excessive) but by the time the tranny goes thru 2-3 sets of gears and then the rears(if you have mack rears also), you could be loosing 75 to 100 hp in no time. I dynoed a cornpicker with a dt533 motor(junk) that was recent remaned. So long story short, that pile should be 250 hp and was putting out 165 at the wheels in direct on the tranny. Im not real knowlegable on this but the math is close. Also, I feel the spec you should look at is torque. Hp(top end) maintains a working load, Torque(low end) gets you there (0 to 60). I have found torque to be a much easier sensation to feel on a truck. You cant have one without the other but torque seems to be the number that will fall off big if somethings not right. Also, I drove the 89 R modle that MAXVILLE is talking about and for the E6 300 loaded to 90k with grain on, ONE MILE was not bad for 60 mph. One little secret of maxville and mine was putting the screws to it. We made a little smoke and watched the pyrometer and couldnt break 950 degrees. Im not asking you to settle for what you have, but as easy as some pumps are to turn up, the previous one could have been tweeked and after a reman process, they usually put them to factory. Hope this helps Noid93

We have a CATCO localy that takes care of most of the driveline work on anything from a pickup to off road equipment. I will inquire with them. Thanks again, PS any help on my transmission post???

I understand completely what the purpose of the slip yoke is, and had a good idea what the platic was for, but what is the best way to fix this??? Can a driveline specialist re-plastic it, or do i need to replace the whole drive shaft or /weld a new male splined end on the shaft/and or a new slip yoke??? Thanks for the help. CURT