mattb73lt

4 hours ago, Hobert62 said:

Freighttrain & myself did something similar.   I can't say for him but I didn't use any type of shims.   Everything pulled together    like it belonged.   I bolted it through 3 of the mack crossmembers then added the fuel tank mounts and some other brackets through the splice as well.        I think my overlap is about 4'

A couple of years ago I posted a question of the frame stretch, I think Freightrain responded with some pics of his stretch. That and a few other responses confirmed that it was pretty sound to go forward that way. Most of my measurements are close and just need to be tightened up a little. Right now I'm thinking that there's 1/4" difference from inner to outer spacing, that could be made up with two 1/8" shims down the overlap. I still need to finish cleaning both sets of rails and then finalize everything.

My plan is to use the two Mack cross members where the original axle is, then staggered bolts in between. There'll be two more cross members  where the donor axle is. The Mack axle will fit the springs that are in the donor frame. It has a Eaton twospeed under it now that'll be removed. The plus is the body is already mounted and will just need to be remounted. Looks like there'll be about 7' added to the wheelbase.

9 hours ago, Red Horse said:

Matt-just out of curiosity did you ever price out rails from P.G. Adams?

My original plan was to fabricate everything and then mount the body. As I looked at the donor frame, I found that it would slide over the original making the stretch and mounting much easier and quicker.

After positioning the donor frame in front of the barn, spent today assessing and stripping the frame back to where the overlap ends. I'll have just short of 8' of overlap on the frame. Found some scale and rot that'll have to be addressed. Good progress this weekend, next several weeks I'll have limited time so it'll be slow

WOW, that's a barn!! Really nice and good for you!!!

Busy day!! Went to my storage yard and brought home the back half of the project, separated it, and brought back the parts I don't need yet. Leaving just the frame at home to be stripped and prepped. Three round trips in the B-43 and all before the rain started, I'm beat!!

5 hours ago, j hancock said:

 

Thanks all!  Nice day at the show.  The dash plaque was just plain old luck.  My name was drawn out of a hat at our chapter's fall potluck meal and meeting.

Matt, I will send the WOW back to you because the B-73 is looking excellent in your restoration thread!

Thanks, I waited a long time to get to it. The thread keeps me motivated to get something done each week so even it's something minor.

Your Tandem B is really nice though, I'll have to track you down at one of the shows to see it up close.

I had no idea that B was yours. I saw it last year, I think, at the Bolton show. WOW!

21 minutes ago, Red Horse said:

Matt- too lazy to go back to page 1-so what is the plan in terms of WB stretch?  This going to be another roll back?  If this had liners the rails look good-at least to my uneducated eye!

Yes, pretty significant stretch to a single axle roll back I have stored in a friend's yard. The frames are close and will slide together with an 1/8" shim down the length of the overlap, which will be over 6' plus creating a double frame. This is the donor frame and body that I had to move for the barn work.

My favorite style B, something is just right about the whole thing.

9 hours ago, eddeere said:

All of this has got me confused. The speedometer on my B 61 never worked. When I pulled the engine and trans the cable had an adapter on the end that had a square drive on it about .111". The trans needed on that one that was .125 ". I got one from Bobs Speedometer. Have not driven the truck yet so not sure of the fix. Hope I do not have to go thru all of the above.

I've parted a few trucks that had the small square offset boxes that are ratio adapters for errors on the speedometer when you change something like the rear end ratio, Freightrain posted a picture of one. I've had several problems over the years with the speedometer and the drive off the tail shaft. The pencil gears and spiral drive I posted mostly came from donors I've had. Those reside in the tail shaft housing Freightrain also posted and did a really nice electronic conversion to.

The issue is determining where your problem lies and how you want to fix it. There are many solutions (GPS, electronic) that can cure these issues.

4 hours ago, fxfymn said:

GPS or even a cell phone app seems like the way to go if it starts heading down the road of complicated repairs. I use a GPS on mine since the speedo bounces around so much.

I have one now, too. I use it to check all my cars as one has no speedometer ( Model T) and 6V so it eats battery  life while in use. Very useful for determining speedo accuracy.

That should help get us in the ballpark of the issue. Those gears I posted reside within the housing that Freightrain posted and the pencil gear is about 4" long. His modification is nice as there are no moving parts for the "drive" and will probably outlast all of us. The thin collar is against the bushing the cable connects to. On my B-42 there is a small plastic adapter that  connects the replacement cable to the pencil gear. On the pencil gear there will be a small series if numbers for that gear. The mesh is important as you will wear out the gears quickly if there's a significant mismatch.

As for the chart, I made one for mine for every gear using all the ratios/final drive/tire diameter (RPM=Gear#=MPH). Helped a lot as my speedo was inop when I first had it on the road.

Wow, that's awesome. Some  really good info for the future if I need to go that way. The reluctor would be a challenge. Very similar to the RPM sensors that Bell Helicopter uses and calls Mono-pole Pick-ups, measuring the magnetic fields of gear teeth as they pass.

Now there's a fix. So that pick-up (sensor) needs to be 90 degrees from target? Did you do the machine work or send it out?

They do. There's a number on the shaft and I also count the teeth. Some of these pencil gears are trashed because of that. They can be slightly off, but the mesh is important. I believe that spiral gear I have was done in because of that, Along with the pencil gear.

1 hour ago, Red Horse said:

Thx Matt.  I did not get to it today but I'm going to pull the 2"adapter, engage the cable, then spin the cable  (from the adapter end) while I have an observer in the driver's seat to see if cable is turning.  If it does, I guess case is made that problem is in the tailshaft-correct?

It may be. If the cable, speedometer head and connections all check, then I would suspect the pencil gear or spiral drive. The pencil gear is really easy to pull and check.

If the cable checks Ok, sometimes there's an adapter to interface with the "pencil" gear drive. Check that and make sure that everything locks and drives together. If all that is good, I would suspect the pencil gear and the spiral drive on the tail shaft of the transmission. The pencil gear is pretty easy to get at. Back off the bushing where the speedometer cable attaches, the small shaft should lift out with a little effort. I've had those eaten up by the spiral drive. If it's the spiral drive, that's going to be a little tougher to get at if it's bad.

I have several pencil gears and spiral drives I've collected up to fix issues I've had. If that pencil shaft is bad, the gear can be pressed off and put on a good shaft to keep the speedometer accurate or at least working. Let me know if you need one and I'll get it to you. I'll take some pics of them tonight.

I have the same set-up as Freightrain, 237 with a double over Triplex. Very happy with it, big improvement from the 673 I had,  Also running 1500-2100 and skipping gears when needed. Only issue...I miss the bark of the 673, much quieter at cruise though.

Really nice job!! That's going to look great going down the road.

6 hours ago, carlotpilot said:

matt      thought i would find you a hood ornement for the 73  but i have`nt figured out how to polish him with out making his eyes water  

That guy is tiny!!

1 minute ago, Timmyb said:

Is the timber in your floor a factory item? I think all the old w model Kenworth's here had timber floor. Makes sense too, better noise and heat insulation. 

If your previous work is anything to go by, that cab will look great once completed. 

Yes, there is another piece that I had just removed on the passenger side.

Since I finished my three winter projects (engine, transmission & radiator) and there's still snow on the ground, I figured I'd continue assessing the cab. I was able to get some time in before work and remove the doors. This cab had some previous damage to the back panel and the repair work was horrible. The lower panel and rear window panel were factory replacements and were also barely attached. Once you open up the cab, it's pretty simple construction. before I remove anything else, I'll cross brace everything to prevent shifting.