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Posts posted by mattb73lt
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I’ve seen two styles of attachment, what you posted (that’s what I have) and an earlier version that’s belt driven off a pulley and with the pump mounted to a bracket. The direct mount is the preferable one in my view..
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Yes, big time. When I repowered my B42 I installed a large Sheppard box and ran it off a small pump at the back of the generator. When I upgraded to a 237 it came with a larger pump at the back of the compressor. I also upgraded the reservoir from a R model. I searched for a 237 with that arrangement. That pump arrangement made a world of difference in the boxes operation. The other option is a Garrison add on unit, using the original box, an add on piston on the tie rod and a built in valve unit on the drag link. I can get you pictures next week, if you’d like.
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Just keep asking questions. There's lots of knowledge floating around on this site.
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More good news. My injectors and PT pump arrived from Premco Diesel Perfomance of Lampasas, TX on Thursday, after being overhauled. I had taken them to Metro Diesel in Essex, CT. They said the could do them, but three weeks later called and said the couldn't. Picked them back up and shipped them to Premco. They went through the injectors and found mismatched parts and several nozzles with the wrong spray patterns. The pump needed some work and also received some upgrades that it needed. I'm glad I sent them out. While the engine ran very well and strong, they could have caused problems down the road in the new engine. They were very easy to deal with and the owner, Warren, does the flange type injectors himself. It's becoming harder to find a shop that can still do flange type injectors, for all the same reasons we were just discussing. Now, to build an engine up so I have somewhere to install them!
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My condolences. Thank you for sharing. He sounds like an amazing man. Hopefully, this site brought him some solace and joy.
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It definitely is a dying industry and art. The industry because modern engines last so long. When I was younger, getting 100K miles out of an engine before it needed to be rebuilt was a lot. Now, engines go 200-300K+ without needing anything. The art, because people with the knowledge to do such work aren't being taught anymore. When I was about to go to high school, I didn't want to go to my hometown one for various reasons. My two options were a college preparatory school or technical school. Not being a very studious kid, but good with my hands, the choice was easy. I chose a state technical high school. To get in, you had to take an entrance exam. A few years later they did away with the exam and would take anyone. My freshman year I chose Machine, Tool & Die as my major. I excelled at it and upon graduation went on to technical college and other endeavors. The machine trade at that school was robust and we had three well versed instructors. My class was full, but the following classes were smaller each year. In the mid-2000's the school closed. The only one in the state system to do so. The school was closed for several years, then after being restructured, reopened. One of the shops no longer offered, Machine, Tool & Die. The rows of lathes, milling machines, precision grinders, NC & CNC machines, EDM machines all gone. The automotive machine shop I worked at in that time ran six days a week. We had four guys rebuilding engines, a counterman and a older guy that had his own boring machine that bored blocks. The owner, who I still know and deal with, bounced between to counter and shop. Then me running parts, rebuilding cylinder heads and anything they needed. The work in that shop slowly dried up and the owner retired after closing the shop. I'm glad I have the skills my instructors gave me and a shop in my barn that I can make the things in need.
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Much more. I was just doing a general clean up of the crank and passages. When you polish, you actually remove material, but much finer than grinding a crank. Depending on wear and the manufacturer's tolerances you can remove up to a few thousands of an inch, before you'd need to re-cut it to the next size under.
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Another issue was sending out the injectors and fuel pump for testing and overhaul. Started off with Metro Fuel Injection, they're located in Essex, CT and Agawam, MA and have several other shops in New England. At first they said they could do them, but after three weeks said they no longer had the capability to do NH220 injectors or pumps. More research and I located Premco Diesel Performance in Lampasas, TX. Found them on Facebook, on the Cummins Old Gold page. Spoke to the owner, Warren, who was very helpful. He said send them as he does the old flange type injectors himself. He called Monday to tell me what he found, all kinds of mismatched parts in the injectors, wrong spray pattern nozzles and the pump needed work and he gave it a few needed updates. They're done, payed for and enroute back to me, now. So, another item checked off the To Do list.
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I basically paid him for the work on the block and the parts for the heads he purchased. He did, in a roundabout way, admit to several things I called him out on. I’m done with him. On to another shop and getting this done.
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Just now, mechohaulic said:
If Mr. Rockwell suggested the place they "must have been good once" like many operations today ; place is still there , personal inside changed along with attitudes and interest. times change and none of the changes seem for the better anymore.
I agree. The place was renowned in years past and had an awesome reputation. It has dwindled down to a one man show, with not much of a work ethic. It's sad because with a little motivation he could have a great shop. I knew and it still bit me. Even Rocky didn't have much to say, other than agree with me going elsewhere. This has been a big setback time-wise, but should be right back on track by the end of April.
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Nice work on the roof and door sill!!
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I did not have a good week with this engine last week. After getting the crank cleaned up they way I wanted it I was convinced the shop I went to did not do any polishing to it. Close inspection revealed that the journals appeared to be in the same condition as when I dropped it off. I was able to get Rocky to come to the shop last Wednesday to look it over with me. We remeasured every journal in four spots and all were within .0008" to .0003" of the undercut it had been given during its last rebuild and well within tolerances for heavy polishing. The week prior I contacted a guy I worked for in high school and sent him pictures of areas I had concern with. He was of the same opinion as Rocky, that it hadn't been polished. Rocky wasn't happy with any of this either and this was from a shop he'd recommended. He told me he felt bad about sending me there and wasn't comfortable putting this crank into the engine. I had my reservations of this particular shop and voiced them to Rocky before anything left my shop. About the time I contacted my old boss I was shopping for another place to go to. I received several recommendations. I did talk to Tom from Mahoney & Son in NH that week, too. He strongly recommended the shop they go to in Malden, MA. So last Thursday I loaded up the B42 with both crankshafts and hit the road early to make my way through Boston to Malden. Friday, I went to the shop in Hamden and removed the two sets of heads and parts I had there and brought them to Malden as well. The conversation at that shop was not pleasant, but I was professional and adamant that I was through doing business there. As I was leaving the owner did hand me back $1K in cash for the work he didn't complete. Luckily, he hadn't assembled the new parts into the heads before I removed them.
So some set backs and time lost at this shop, but I want the work I'm paying for done right. I don't want to have to do this again. I should've gone with my gut instinct and stayed away from this shop. It is getting so hard to find a reputable shop nowadays in my area. The new shop is a Cummins and Perkins Certified shop and the owner took me on a tour when I arrived. It's also about a two hour ride from me. Driving the B42 through Boston on I90 was a trip and a half. The WAZE app on my phone was my navigator there and extremely helpful. On the way back I stopped in Framingham to have lunch with my brother. That rarely happens due to our jobs and the last time we did, I was still a Trooper.. He's a civil engineer for JF White Construction and has done a lot of bridge, tunnel and rail work in his career around Boston. He was the project engineer on the Bunker Hill cable-stay bridge during it's construction. I had to break his balls that I was lucky to cross it in the Mack without it crashing down. Still moving forward after this hiccup.
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It looks great!!
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I'm not super clean, but I was taught to rebuild engines as clean as possible. Some shops I've been to, like the one I just used, leave a lot to be desired and it's a reflection of what their product will be. Even with this shop, which is the last one in my area that can handle parts this big, I had some issues. These parts definitely needed extra elbow grease to make them usable again. As long as the machine work is good and accurate, I don't mind doing the dirty work. There was no way I was going to assemble this crank into the block without some extra cleaning. I'm also not going to pay someone for something I can do. Here's how it came back after some work and being hot tanked and what it's like now, showing the same spot in both pics.
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3 minutes ago, Vladislav said:
I wonder how did you put the shaft onto the lathe? That thing is supposed to be damn heavy. We have to carry Mack cranks by two men and when I took the last one off a block I just hooked a chain hoist to it.
The final result of the cleaning looks tasty.
Just used my engine hoist and a two short straps to get it on there. And it is damn heavy!!
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I got this one from my Dad's shop when I closed it up. It sat for a long time, but I find it indispensable now and it gets a ton of use.
And Larry I'm with you on the Glyptal. Not sure if it's really worth the effort of applying it with its return. I had several people recommend it and with the condition of the block, I figured it was worth it.
The Dremel got another workout cleaning up the crankshaft to a condition that was acceptable for assembly. The crankshaft just fit between two dead centers on the lathe with only about three inches to spare. It made turning it easy for the cleanup. You can see in the last photo the flanks of the counterweights needed some serious cleaning.
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Well, that was tedious. Out of all the shop equipment I have, I found the best tool to clean the interior of the block was my Dremel tool. I have a long flexible extension for it and with various wire wheels it made quick work of the rust and ash left on the surfaces. The wheels don't hold up well, but they're not made for such heavy cleaning. They do get into all the nooks and crannies and left it very clean. Coated it with the Glyptal as mentioned. I was able to coat most everthing but the passages for the pushrods. It should help seal and prevent any future rust. Tomorrow I'll touch it up and clean where I got a little sloppy. I also cleaned the upper water jacket to sleeve areas, but they'll remain bare for heat transfer.
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That’s kinda what I was thinking about it.
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Lots to do to prepare for the assembly push and probably about three weeks out from that. Final parts should be rolling in this week, heads are two weeks out, organizing and cleaning everything, will all take time. Trying to have everything set so when the planets align it goes as smoothly as possible. I started cleaning the block, today. Even though it was boiled twice, theres still a lot to clean up. It was a little frosty with rust from sitting but it cleans right up with a wire brush. Not a huge believer in it, but I'm going to coat the inside of the block with Glyptal and the shop manual does call for. If nothing else, it'll be clean and shouldn't rust. The engine rotisserie is really a huge help
78A87F25-C13F-4118-BA59-3CBD7BB8C66C.heic 83F761C1-8844-48AA-8CEC-FD94F35A0369.heic
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14 minutes ago, mrsmackpaul said:
That's good news, so both blocks and cranks were okay I take it
Paul
One was a better candidate for rebuilding than the other. The one I bought for parts was the keeper. But, both are still usable.
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Does a "Classic" or "Antique" truck need to be inspected in CT?
in Antique and Classic Mack Trucks General Discussion
Posted
You shouldn’t need a CDL in CT, if it’s registered as a Classic Vehicle registration. Regarding the hauling of a trailer, that will mostly be up to your insurance carrier. Most people I know in the hobby seem to use Hagerty. That’s what I have, with no issues hauling my other cars on my flatbed. When I went with them, I fully explained my purposes and how I use my vehicles.
CTDMV is a very loosely run agency. Every time I register something there’s some issue. The B73 I just registered took two visits, even though I had all the proper paperwork the first visit. Even though I had a CT Bill of Sale, I was told I needed a signed affidavit from the person I bought it from. Well that person is long deceased, so that wasn’t happening. On my second visit the counter person brings out a set of Apportioned plates and starts asking me questions about gross weight. I specifically asked for Classic Vehicle plates. Then she says, “ You can’t carry anything on your flatbed deck with Classic plates”. At this point I told her to get her supervisor. She shows up and I ask her what is the regulation reference that prohibits me from hauling my own stuff??? They couldn’t answer that and I know of none that exists.
There was no questions about a DOT number exemption requirement.
Honestly, I have no idea how they do business or what the real requirements are, because they don’t know themselves.
It depends on what day and who you get as to what’s needed. Sad to have to say that, but it is the truth.
I would get your insurance and registration filled out as accurately as you can and move forward. It may take several visits and phone calls to accomplish, but that’s what it may take. The lack of knowledge and standardization in CT is astonishing.