D2Denny

Started replacing the Drive axle wheel seals in my G with a RADL 515 axle. When I pulled down the right side, I was surprised to find 2 seals in the hub. One in the normal position and one in the center of the hub separating the inner and outer bearing chambers. It appears that the inner wheel bearing is sealed off from any oil supply other than what is placed in the hub when installing the entire assembly. Is this correct? The seals are Trostel #'s T55173 and T55068. My old school NAPA dealer searched through all his old catalogs and couldn't cross these over to a current part number. Anybody happen to have current seal part numbers for these? If not, I'll be off to my local bearing supplier. Also, the days are long gone when I could hump on and off a hub and drum assembly by myself. Thought about it the night before and came up with the idea of using my homemade mechanic's seat. I Screwed a couple of plywood slats the seat, ginned up 2 "clips" to bolt the hub to the slats, and used a bottle jack under the axle housing to match the height exactly. The hub and drum assembly slid off easily and safely. Will be able to reinstall easily without damaging the seals.

Mike: Glad you are out of the hospital and hopefully on the mend for good. Got both your items and they were good. As for the entry, the fabricated stirrup steps worked well, and I have the right side almost done. Might switch out the single hand grabs for 32" handrails on each side if I can find some that fit and look like they belong. Dennis

Just found the cigar lighter in the G and it still works. Now to get one of the plug-in USB adapters for the cell and Bluetooth speaker so I have tunes. You forgot the most important item in any truck today. THE CUP HOLDER! Have to gin one of these up. Don't know how anyone back in the day drove without one.

here is the third photo with the inner fender installed

All G's have that stub on the hub cap. Left foot goes there first, right foot on the step at the left rear of the cab then the left foot all the way up into the cab. The stirrup step cuts that distance down by 8 inches and is much safer for us old guys.

Absent any usable info from this forum, I proceeded to mock-up a step from 1/8" welding wire. When I got the shape and dimensions to an acceptable design, I made it up in steel. Increasing the complexity of the install is that the G has a sheet metal inner-fender on the left side. I had to create a substructure to attach to a structural portion of the cab, install the inner fender, and attach the step through the inner fender to it. The step has improved the entry effort 50% and the exit experience 100% as you now have a step visible to land your foot on. I still have to fab up a similar step on the right side, but it will be much easier as there is no inner fender. I can fasten the step directly to the floorboard.

Larry One thing I do know for sure is that the O-ring is the same between the Luberfiner 750 bypass filter canister and the Mack dual element filter canister. Had my old school NAPA store confirm this with their catalogs. The O-ring NAPA part # is FIL 5114. Cost $10.00. They got it in one day from the warehouse.

Now you guys confuse the hell out of me. I ordered a Wix51233 which is the same as the 236GB311A and Baldwin P706-m that TOPO said. Now this is not the correct filter? I have a Baldwin C750-e (regular 750 element) also. I'll just have to see what is inside when I finally take it apart.

The only oil filter on my G-75 is the Luberfiner 750 mounted horizontally under the Battery Box. I'm getting ready to change the oil and filter soon, but question how to prelube the filter? Mounted vertically you can at least fill it to the cover level and bleed the air out the fitting on the top of the cover when you start it. However, having it mounted horizontally there is no way to prefill it with oil or bleed it. Who has serviced one mounted this way and how is it done?

Sold. Going to Australia.

It's a mystery to me how I got so old so fast. However, at this stage of the game I'm content to adding 1 more year for each additional orbit around the sun. The alternative would be at your maximum age for eternity. All neat gadgets in the previous posts, but I believe a simple extra step will be adequate for me for a few more years.

My G is the hardest truck to get into that I have ever encountered. I concede that my 75 year old ass is not as spry as it once was, but the peg on the hub cap and one step at the rear of the cab make it extremely difficult to climb up into the cab. Exiting is even worse. I'm going to fabricate a "stirrup" style step under the door like on a F Mack or old Freightliner. Does anyone out there have an F that they could take some measurements of this step for me. I need the inside width of the step. How far it protrudes or angles out from the body, and the dimension from the top of the rung of the step to the bottom of the body in the wheel well. On second thought, if you have an old Freightshaker I could use those dimensions too. Thx Dennis

That weekend I'll be at the Ohio Vintage Truck Reunion in Ashland Ohio.

Complete air start system from a 1962 G-75 with a END673 engine. Includes Ingersol starter motor, air tank with aluminum frame brackets, main valve and dash valve. $300. Located in Mansfield, Ohio. Dennis Campbell dencmp@embarqmail.com or 419-545-2706

Thanks to all who have replied with suggestions and shops that can actually repair a spring. Dropped mine off today at Superior Spring in Canton per Larry's suggestion and they will handle it. Didn't see any young folk in the shop just old timers like me. Afraid when they retire their skills and knowledge will go with them and that will be the end of spring forging and repair. Made extra use of the trip to Canton as I stopped by Adelman's and picked up 2 decent 24.5 Dayton rims to mount my new steer tires on.

Didn't get there today but I called and they said they could roll an eye. Off to Canton in the AM.

Steel Nose thanks for your offer but the springs are already loaded into my pickup and its little more than an hour over there. As I'm retired I have plenty of time.

Bob, you are very perceptive, I apologize for my snarky remark. Everyone likes a little ass but no one likes a smart ass. As for the G with the rad out for re-core I replaced the water pump and all the belts and hoses. The generator was replaced with a Delco 22SI alternator, Steer springs out for repair, next is returning the truck to electric start and removing the air start system (it came from the factory with electric start). The 40 plus year old 10X22 tires will be changed out to fresh 11R24.5 rubber. Last significant item will be to fabricate stirrup style steps under the doors ala early Freightliner cab-overs or F Macks. This is the hardest truck to get into and out of as it sits that I have ever encountered.

What!! I didn't have to pull my steer tires and springs to gain access to the driveline mounted park brake? Wish I would have Kown that before starting. Could have saved myself 20 minutes labor.

Thanks to all who offered help or ideas on spring shops. I'm going to jump on Larry's suggestion first thing Monday AM. They are a little more than an hour from me, and can hopefully solve mu problem.

Tractor had a lean to the left, (I hate things that are not plumb or square) so with the front end disassembled to pull the radiator, I decided to pull both springs to have them repaired /re-arched so they matched. Found the spring eye on the left spring broken and flopping around inside the wrapper leaf. Tried 3 HD truck spring shops in Ohio and none could come up with a replacement. Obsolete spring, no longer produced or in stock. Worse, non had operable forges anymore, or the people with the knowledge to actually roll an eye and make a spring. Anybody know of a spring shop in the Ohio area that can actually make a truck spring? Or any other alternatives?

Yes, there are 2 open slots in the face of the drum. Somehow I have to figure out what's missing and find one. That should solve my problem.

Thanks for going out and checking for me. My Mack owner's manual has instructions to adjust the Bendix internal shoe in the un-applied state, shoe to drum clearance to .010.

does your park brake work properly when applied?

I will send it back. You have to realize that most places haven't dealt with this type of equipment in 40 or 50 years and all the people that did this are long gone along with the part catalogs of the era. I'm trying to give them guidance on exactly what I need. I couldn't think of a better place to seek this info than this web site.