Bollweevil

Alright, serious subject here I'm asking about:

As many know I've purchased this drop deck trailer in Manchester, NH and need to get it home to Illinois. I need to uprate my driver's license to a class "A" CDL, (no problem there, I have a class "B"). I've never had an IFTA account, or anything else to do with trucking as I never operated out of the state unless barely into Iowa, Indiana, or Missouri. I only licensed my truck to 26,000# and never had a single problem.

I'm wanting to license my R612 as a tractor to pull a semi trailer with the baseplate in Illinois. I'm thinking less than 50,000# total as the most I will ever haul will be another Mack truck. I do not plan to work for hire with the rig, and it will be personal use only. I don't know what is required to run the truck out of state legally? What costs are involved?

Any guidance appreciated.

Thanks,

Rob

I have no knowledge of licensing requirements in Ill. If I were considering doing the same thing in Ga. I would register the truck with the county that I live in, RE. No IRP, no estimated mileage or reporting to come back and bite your ass. I would register at less than 55,000 lbs. RE. no filing of 2290 involved. I also would not consider IFTA at all, RE. reporting is a never ending pain. You probably won't be able to get around having or applying for a DOT number. If you will only be going out of state occasionaly, the cost of a temp permit is less than being pissed off for the rest of your life. Check with the individual states between ILL and NH about travel without cargo in your own vehicle. When I brought my RS back from Oregon I had to clear a Wyoming port of entry, it was the only fee that I paid. I had called each state along my proposed route, and avoided potential problems. Travel on the weekend helped.

Naw,that was yesterday. This is what the can looks like. The canned is not nearly as good as the ones you find growing around here and pick yourself,it has a lot of stems and stalks in it that are pretty tough.I've sowed them in the garden before,they grow flat on the ground and when they get big enough you take a knife and cut them off even with the ground.

I have heard of them before, in fact you talk about them every year about this time. I don't remember seeing them grow before, but I would not be against trying them.

Hey James,happy birthday and happy new year!

Bet you've heard of creeces,eh? I was just remembering last new years,had black eyed peas and creeces,or creecy greens as some people call them, but nobody else had ever even heard of them.

I got black eyed peas with some smoked hog jowl in the crockpot now and a can of creeces. Not as good as cutting some yourself,but not bad either.

Thanks guys. It is collard greens in my part of the world. I have a big pot of them coming off the stove now

thanks. you know i did not realize that at all. would i have to plug both air lines off the chamber or just the one? thanks for your input it is greatly appreciated!!!!.

HAPPY NEW YEAR.

You would plug only the side that was leaking. You could hear the leak on the spring brake or parking side of the camber, because it requires constant pressure to release the spring brakes. A leak on the service brake side shows up as a loss of pressure when the brakes are applied. Harder to find. A service brake leak normally would not affect the parking brake. You could clamp it off or plug it and be on your way. You just can't plan for every problem, but a few bits an pieces will make your life easier.

hi. just want to know. what does a guy do if a brake chamber goes out on you when your on the road. this is what happened to me i was cruising along then a heard air passing. noticed my gauge began to drop rather quickly. i stop the truck and noticed one of my rear brake chamber were leaking, at the small hole on the housing.

i made it home, but the brakes were dragging somewhat. what do most people do? should i have disconnected the slack adjuster and joined the 2 air lines togeather?

thanks

The correct temp repair in such a situation would be to cage the brake chamber, and block off the spring brake hose. To do so requires some advance planing. A cage bolt is supplied with each brake chamber at manufacture, and is attached to the chamber. It is up to you to make sure it is there. You will need a 3/4 in wrench to use it. With a rubber supply hose you can clamp it off with a small pair of vise grips. You could clamp a plastic hose, with the understanding that when you do so you have ruined it and it should not be reused. A better idea, would be to remove the line from the release valve or junction and plug it. It takes tools and fittings, no matter how you do it. You can't just hook the lines together, as you have two brake systems to deal with. The service brake needs air pressure to apply, and the parking brake needs constant pressure to release. Learn how to use a cage bolt and figure out what you need for the next time. Getting home is a triumph.

Smith Electric Vehicles announced the purchase of two all-electric Smith Newton trucks by the United States Marine Corps, the first military organization to order Smith Newtons off the Government Services Administration (GSA) schedule.

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Yes, gunnery sgt. 1st and 2nd squads will push, 3rd and 4th will ride. 3rd and 4th squads mount up, 1st and 2nd line up for a 1000 mg RJS. Squads, forward, double time, hoowee.

Boy calls me from the other end of the shop where I'm prepping for the roof install on my RL797 that he is finished installing a new grille into my R612. I'm thinking the extra "Western" grille plate to make all the R models look the same from the front, which I'm alright with.

To my surprise, this is what I got:

Rob

Only if you have enough rich pine, or used engine oil to complete the job. A pole and a war dance would be optional.

Also make sure this is not a 15 speed with the wrong shift know. A 15 speed will not let the range go into hi when the splitter is in deep reducion. And also look if you have not and see that it is not a RT 12513.This would be a u/d 13 and it will split different than a o/d.I am talking about looking at the tag at the bottom of the case.

Glen, I have been there and done that. A 15 could have one of two different range caps. one with an air bleed, and one without. Each has it's very own Road Ranger Valve, or shift Knob. If a fellow is just a little nutty, and would like to drive himself completely crazy, he could mix them up and try to make the transmission work.

,

Think I found the problem. The "Aeroquip" style line that feeds the overdrive piston has a split in the side against the transmission case. Of course it only leaks when the splitter is selected forward and I've always had the engine running when actuating it so couldn't hear the leak. Found it with shop air supplying the truck, and shifting it with the engine shut down.

Thanks for the help. I'm going to order a new line set tomorrow morning. Anything else anyone else knows about that should be serviced before putting the truck back in service?

Rob

In regards to replacing the lines, the most self serving thing you could do, would be to round up some fittings and replace them with hard plastic air line. The filter regulator is at the rear, top, right, of the trans. It can be serviced. it doesn't look at all like the filter on the 12 speed.

My RTO-12513 will not go into the high range, (splitter) but starts to grinding upon passing through neutral on the upshift. Once this grinding starts I have to stop the truck to have any transmission gearing. I can't get it to shift either up, or down when this grinding is going on and flipping the splitter does nothing. At a dead stop I can, (in neutral) actuate the range valve hearing a definitive clunk as the range shifts. This also works perfect when driving. When in the high range position, I can flip the splitter button with my thumb and another difinitive sounding clunk is heard. I assume this is normal. However as mentioned, this starts a grinding that does not cease until the truck is stopped, and the range selector is selected back to low range.

I've backed up with the range selector in high, and the splitter in low, and with the splitter in high. Although I need to be very ginger with both the throttle and clutch to get the truck to move due to such high gearing, there does appear to be a difference, sometimes.

I've been very easy on things as I don't know much about these air shift transmissions and valving. Certainly don't want to hurt anything. The trans drives and shifts fine through the low and high ranges but I've not been able to get the splitter to work on the road since changing the lineset a couple weeks ago. I know the lines are correctly routed as they were changed one at a time.

Thanks,

Rob

If you have a good clean air supply through the filter, and you are dead certain you didn't cross the air lines, remove and inspect the insert valve in range cylinder cap. On the left rear, there is a brass air bleed in the bottom of the cap. Run it out and with needle nose pliar's remove the valve. It is about as big around as a pencil and an inch or so long. It is easy to get to, and I have had them cause a multitude of symptoms.

I farm in ND where it is nearly flat, no hills. I'm looking at trucks for my 41' grain hopper. Which would I like better: Both '04 Vision. One has 460 hp, 10 speed (FRLO16410C?), 3.70 ratio. The other 410 hp, 13 spd Fuller, 3.55 ratio? I will be leaving grain fields loaded at 80,000 gross and sometimes more. I may take an occasional load of alfalfa to central Mn, but 95% would be wheat & soybeans, hauled to the local elevator 20 miles away.

If you will be pulling from out of the field, off road performance should be the deciding factor. Both transmissions are 1.0 in 9th gear. Overdrive in the 10 is about .74, the 13 is .87. Gear reduction in the low side would probably be better with the 10 speed. Go to the Road Ranger home page, and pull up the gear charts for both. The site has a really good road speed calculator, located under tools you can use. Enter the specs from both trucks at about 1600rpm.

Good Dog, danged asstechs should have stayed out of the pond to start with.

Never ran tube tires.... I always ran what the mfg said was the max. unless it was a show truck, then I ran as low as 80 in the steer and 50 psi just for ride comfort to and from local shows...

Cold weather has adverse effects on bias ply tires. When they sit for extended periods they seem to take what is called a set, or a flat spot, where they meet the ground. When you use them every day, they will still take a set, or flat spot, which will go away after a few miles, as the tires warm up.

In the past I never owned a non working truck, and have been more concerned with tire life, than ride. An elderly, under inflated, flat spotted, bias ply tire is more likely to expire than smooth out.

at least put some air in it. You may find inflation values that were molded on the tire.

I guess I put this in the wrong place, since Trent knows all this. I am a little flat spotted and stuck to the ground myself.

MY GUESS IS .73 FROM WHAT I SAW ON THE FULLER SITE.

.87

I like tools, got way more than I need probably. In my younger years, I scattered them all over the country and lost a lot. I keep up with them now, keep them clean and organized, and sometimes just sit and look at them. My prevalent favorite brand is Craftsman, mostly for the price and replacement policy. I have some specialty tools of different brands, mostly cause craftsman doesnt sell them. Anybody out there got any opinions or favorite tool brands? Chief Master Mechanic Randyp (in my own mind, of course)

I like tools also, I have one or two, or quite possibly three of everything. I remember quite well my very first tool purchase, with my own money. My Mothers youngest brother, who was off fighting commies in Korea, had promised before leaving, to help me buy my first bike. The only stipulation was that I had to save up the first five dollars toward the purchase. To an eight year old country kid, in 1953 it seemed like fortune. In my memory it seems like it took forever. Finally the glad day arrived, when my dad was able to take me to the Western Auto Store to buy a bike that was as almost as tall as myself. After a short while it occurred to me that a luggage rack on a bicycle was totally useless. Lucky for me, my dad was not prone to lock his tool box, In short order that rack was gone. With the rack out of the way the fender bolts were easy to get to. This thing was looking more like a race bike all the time. With the chain guard off my pants cuff was pretty much chewed off, It didn't really matter that much though, both knees were torn out from flying ass over tea kettle over the handlebars. I could not get all those washers back into the New Departure rear axle, so I really did have to put my foot on the front wheel at the front forks to slow down. One Saturday while visiting my Grandma, I was able to slip away long enough to get to the local Economy Auto Store. The big attraction was the bicycle section, they had everything there axles, bearings, chains, lots of stuff that i had not seen yet. Then, there it was, a little butterfly shaped spoke wrench. About half the size of a business card, and only thirty five cents. I had to have it, my very own first and personal tool. I could not wait to get home, as I was sure that the spokes on my bike were dangerously loose. Sure enough they were, by the time dad came home from work, neither wheel would turn more than half a turn. They were never completely true again. I don't know what he did with my spoke wrench.

test

Pretty good test, you got it in the carport with out knocking it down. Now you need to extend the carport about 50 ft.

I recently started restoring a 1980 F700 Cabover Mack. 350 cummins, 10 Speed. The tractor had been setting for about 5 years. I installed new batteries and she fired right off. I drove her about 30 miles home with no major problems. I've been starting the tractor at least weekly while working on it and no problems. Last nite I took her out to knock the cob webs off her and she started fine but had no power on acceleration. I just barely got it into fifth gear before she ran out of steam. I changed the fuel filter today with no improvement. Stumped and aggrivated.

Check the aneroid diaphragm. Midway on the back side of the pump a steel line goes up and makes it's way to the after cooler. Disconnect the line at the after cooler, and apply no more than 15 lbs. air pressure. A hand held vacume-pressure guage is best. It has to hold pressure. Before you get too involved, old fuel lines are prone to come apart inside and suck together. Make up, or use a known good feed line , run it into a five gallon container, and go for a short ride. short because return fuel will still be going into the tank.

As you are searching for this malfunction, if the truck has a front drive shaft with a mid shaft bearing. check the yoke at the bearing. It is splined to the shaft and retained by a center bolt. I once had a pop and crack like you describe, that I just could not find. I replaced a worn front diff, and went through the rear with no joy. Just a few days later I had to walk home. The front drive shaft turned fine, the rear wouldn't. Needless to say, it also sounded like a hog eating hickory nuts

is it possible to convert a big cam 1 or 2 to a big cam 3? if its not what are the diferances in the engines? im asking for a friend that has a 1 and he likes the 3s better. thanks in advance...joe

Yes. They are the same basic engine. Big Cam 4's are STC engines.

got a '93 ch with a eaton 9spd. just bought it a couple of weeks ago. transmission shifted fine until about 3 days ago. now everytime i click onto the high side (4th to 5th) it makes a grinding noise then it clicks in. no matter how i shift it it stil grinds. any ideas? a friend of mine said it might be a syncro. i'm hoping i can make some kind of adjustment....

I have encountered the same problem, on a high mileage transmission, that was due to badly worn splines on the main shaft and auxiliary drive gear. Have you ever noticed a little sticker beside the shift pattern sticker, that say's, 'Do Not Change Range While In Reverse"? Doing so can damage the sync. the least of which, is to throw the springs out of the assembly.

This new R612 truck that I have has an E6-315 engine, RTO-12513 transmission, 3.87 rears, on 11RX24.5 rubber. Got to play for a couple of hours with it today and have made some discoveries. The trans shifts very crisp and precise as is the clutch in operation. There is no noise from the throwout bearing, or driveline. Down the hiway almost against the governor, the speedometer is reading right at 75mph. I'm wondering how close it is. There is no abnormal shaking at any speed, nor does the truck ride exceptionally rough.

The winch really has a grinding sound when the cable is run out, or in. The problem is traced to all four pillow block bearings supporting the jackshafts that support the chain sprockets for driving the winch are just plain flat worn out. I don't think they have had any grease for quite some time although there are plenty of zerk fittings. The seam sealer is busted up pretty bad in the rain gutter so that will need replaced and I'll probably paint the roof as there is surface rust needing cleaned up. The rooftop clearance lamps are in bad shape but I have new OEM ones I may use.

I can get used to the power steering.

Rob

That sounds about right for road speed. holcombtrucks.com has an on line calculator that I use. To use their calculator, you need to know the tire diameter. I think a 24.5 will measure about 41 in. Check one to be sure.

I know i've posted this rant before,just still makes me mad that people don't know where they are!.....call this "masshole" for directions to his place of business, says he'll put his son on (he's not good with directions) this is downtown quincy,Mass. old,little streets,low bridges,lenght/weight restrictions etc. so after i hand write a page and a half down, no,no thats no good,i'll put mom on, she'll get you here! mom thinks 3 maybe 4 lights (not sure)does'nt know the names of ANY of the streets, may or may not be a low bridge (our car fits under it) but she has SEEN trucks here before!.....long story short,i find the place,have to back down a one way street,go a few blocks down,go around a "rotary" (traffic circle).come back up the street,blindside into an alley around a dumpster,a piece of construction equipment,a crane,a chainlink fence,between 2 buildings,and around a fire hydrant.......get all this accomplished,city cop walks by, says "thats funny,never had a truck this size in here before"!...........so,thats pretty much how my week went! get to start all over again monday with 21 stops!.......Mark

Good Job. When you feel frustrated, take your drivers license out of your wallet, and look at it. You must bee a truck driver, it says so right on your license. A real operator can do ANYTHING better than anyone else. It is in your blood, admit it, and go on to something difficult, or perhaps impossible for ordinary folks.

and sorry for the coon word didnt relise it was a derogetory meening in america.

I would not worry about it a whole lot. At least you can still call a shovel a shovel on either side of the pond, without offending someone. If you call it anything else, all bet's are off.

Like rhasler says, Mack measures from the framerail to the spring support, so it shouldn't matter what chassis or tire size. The ride height is the axle in relation to the frame. It is a critical measurement for driveline angle. My personal experience is that as little as 3/4" change can create a vibration.

Over the years I have seen many drivers AND so-called mechanics try to adjust ride height to improve the ride of a truck. One has nothing to do with the other as the same air PRESSURE will be needed to support the load regardless of the height setting.

Not being argumentative, but the rear of the truck is not right if the front is not right. That is my point. Air pressure will equalize loaded or empty. An improperly adjusted rear affects the front. The rear is a lot easier to adjust, in order to compensate. Front or rear, they are still part of the same truck. When I was young I once had an occasion to ask my wife what a headache could possibly have to do with her ass. Ask yours, and lets see if we both got the same answer LOL

The air ride suspension on my 1990 Superliner has gotten out of whack. We replaced the suspension about 4 year ago with a 2000 Hendrickson/Mack air ride out of a CH. The only problem is that the truck we got the suspenion from was not mine and I don't have the vin # to go by. Does anyone know the proper ride height for a 2000 Hendrickson air ride that's under a 1990 Superliner(double frame) and is it even that critical?

What does ride height have to do with anything, what could it possibly affect? Except for steering geometry, and pinion angle, a good ride down the road, what else. Keep in mind that you are working off two different platform's which may or may not have had even the same tire size. When you get it set the way you want it, on a level pad put a level on the frame rail. If your set up is right it should be very close to level. Check your pinion angles, a guage is not expensive at all, when the angles are right, you can go back to them on PM.

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