Bollweevil

She's just razzin on ya. Don't take it to heart.

Rob

Better take it to heart, she can break down a 10.00x20 with the tools in her pocketbook. A sure enough truck driving girl, with her own truck.

HI GUY'S , can I use teflon tape or liquid on threads on a small leak on my truck with hydralic brakes , or any suggestions?

Depends on what is leaking. You might have some success using a sealer on a NPT fitting. It would be of little use on a flare type fitting, common on most brake systems.

Does anyone out know of a body shop that has replaced the roof panal on a R-model.I am located in the Phila PA area.I would like to have someone that has done it before to do it.I will be checking with my dealer.Also does anyone know the where about of a new cab for a r-model.My truck does not need a whole cab but if it was cheap enough I would replace it all.The truck has only 70,000 miles on it,we brought 20 of them new in 1979.This is the last tractor we have left.I like to use it to pull my antique caterpillar tractors and my B-87 around to shows.Thanks Mike Durkin

Rob has done as much or more of that repair as anyone. I remember seeing photos and a job description on a previous post involving drilling out a zillion spot welds. Dangle a trip to I-Hop in front of him and see what happens.

I hope everybody has a safe and healthy 4th. of July holiday weekend. I called my son this morning, a friend, and my daughter, to see if they wanted to come over for some barbecued chicken and ribs. Nobody even called back...wish I lived closer to Rob and Joe and James and Larry, and Darrell, and Daryl, they'd probably come over for chicken & ribs.

Damn, I cook so bad I can't give it away...crap!

I've sat around so much the past couple of years, that it just doesn't take much to wear me out. I would gladly eat your cooking, I am sick of mine. Having to keep up with planning and preparing three meals a day along with everything else that it takes to make a house a home, is a sure enough chore. My hat is off to the real homemakers, wherever you are. A special salute to those, past and present, who have with their Lives and their Sacred Honer given meaning to this day. In the vernacular of the southern boy FREEDOM AIN'T FREE. God Bless those who have so unselfishly put themselves in harms way. Thank You. HAPPY 4th TO EVERYONE.

picked my first tomatoes yesterday-(note:photo may have been altered to provide more substance)

The problem now is not the size of the tomater, but where are we going to find a loaf of bread big enough to create a one slice sammich. I bet Rob can find one.

Hi there, I have never had the pump off of my E6-350 but I'm thinking that it does have a flat, or missing tooth on the drive gear to slide on one way only. I would not turn the engine over with the pump removed just in case.

To set the valves get yourself a service manual as it will explain the proceedure perfectly. You must have a way to "bar" the engine over by hand with either a breaker bar, or some way to turn the engine by hand to bring the cyliners that you are going to adjust the valves on to TDC. You then loosen the locknut of the rocker arm at the side opposite the valve stem bridge and adjust the clearance between the arm, and the valve stem bridge while pushing down on the back of the rocker arm to open the gap. Using a screwdriver to hold the adjusting screw in position, tighten the locknut and recheck your clearance to ensure you are still correct. Follow the firing order of the engine, (1,5,3,6,2,4) and adjust the valves in this order. Just bar the engine over till both rocker arms for the cylinder you want to adjust are loose with clearance. This is the area you need to watch closely. For instance turn the engine a little further than when you first notice one valve just stopping to move. If you don't go a little further than this point it is possible for you to be on the "ramp" of the cam lobe and not in the position the adjustment needs to made in. I'm only talking moving the crankshaft another inch or so from the point when one of the rocker arms stops moving. If you adjust your clearance while on the "ramp" of the cam, the operating clearance will be way off when the engine is running.

If you don't have access to a service manual I can scan the proceedure for you in a .pdf file. PM me your email address if you need it.

Rob

Rob, you have made a very good point about being sure that you are on the heel, or base circle of the cam before attempting to adjust the valves.

For that reason, the most accurate way to set the valves is during the overlap. It is hard however for some folks to wrap their mind around that idea. Although it is all old hat for you, it might not be so for everybody, so here is a little chart that I use to remind me where I am while running overhead. It represents the 720 degrees it takes to completely cycle any 4 cycle engine.

Mack or Cummins in line 6 both fire 120 degrees apart

1 5 3 first 360 degrees or top of the firing order

6 2 4 second 360 degrees or bottom of the firing order

When you look at the balancer it will be marked 1-6 5-2 3-4 . It does not matter where you start in the firing order. If for instance the timing pointer is at 5-2, with the valve covers removed look at the valves on 5 and 2. If you have a valve open on 2, then you are at TDC on 5, or just opposite, same deal. If you are on 5 adjust the valves and bar the engine over to 3, checking for an open valve on 4. A good idea is to mark each valve as you adjust them. a tire crayon or white out work for me. Someone who does this every day might not need a chart. The important thing is to know where you were if you have to walk away and come back later. Check behind yourself, the best mechanic's always do without thinking about it.

well that explains it. I figured it would be difficult, I hate to put the r-600 out to pasture.. I will figure something out.

Fred

Are you giving up this easy? Say it ain't so. Go to the video store and rent Maj. Payne. Listen to the part about the little engine that could.

I have 94 pete .I bought a 40ton lowebd the truck has air ride but the trailer is spring ride .now the truck rides like lumber wagon it is a set back axle and is a short wheel base.Any ideas as to why it is ding this?

It rides rough when pulling a lowboy, as opposed to pulling what else? My experience has been that the longer the wheel base, the better the ride. On a really short wheel base, when you hit a bridge approach the front suspension doesn't have time to recover before the drive tires hit. Then it feels like your in orbit. The return to earth is as bad as the sudden launch, but then the seat rebounds and tries to stick your head through the roof. A good ride is relative to what you are doing, where you are doing it, and what you have to do it with. On a really bad road, nothing rides good period. Like Herb has mentioned, sometimes you just have to get tough, and get used to it. Before I started changing anything I would hook it up to something else, like a van maybe and see what happens.

An open exhaust will hurt your ears a lot more than it would hurt the engine. The longer the pipe the less noise, the shorter it is the more noise, and more likely for the engine to lean out at high speed with stock jetting. This is completely unimportant unless you plan on adding a roll bar and taking it to the lawnmower race.

Measure from the end of the flywheel housing to the radiator core, to get an idea of how much room you have. Then measure the Cummins from flywheel housing to fan. It might be possible to move the radiator forward a couple of inches or the trans back 3 or 4 inches. Having room for it only matters when you consider how bad you want to do it. Possibilities are unlimited, for a creative mind.

I just read a real good article in a magazine called Heavy Duty Trucking, about different factors that take their toll on tires. The main point of the article was that it is not the age of the tire, but it's overall condition, maintence history, inflation history that decide how long it is going to run. I always seem to get into arguements over recaps. They will run as long as anything else, if they are taken care of properly. The key thing to remeber is Proper Inflation.

That is exactly right. For the last 8 years I have run a lot of discards. You don't the very best on a construction site. Other than debris damage, heat is the major cause of tire failure. A flexing sidewall, due to under inflation will cause the best tire to fail. I run my tandem dumps at 110 psi. Why? As you increase the pressure, the load rating increases. A tight tire will run cooler and last longer. Did any of you readers see Henry Fonda in " Elegant John", the elegant part was that he never had a blowout. I've had plenty. A hammer or tire billy will let you know when a tire is low or flat," less than 60 psi" but a good tire guage is part of an operators gear.

GOP sell outs for the largest tax increase in US history

Mary Bono Ca.

Mike Castle De.

Mark Kirk Ill.

Leonard Lance NJ.

Frank LoBiondo NJ.

Christopher Smith NJ.

John McHugh NY.

David Riechert Wa.

These Individuals, along with 211 Democrats voted for a bill that they not only have not read, but which had not been written. We need to say GOODBYE to the whole dang bunch.

Trying to decide which air-dryer to mount on the B 61. Some suggestions welcome.............. .....like to go simple, but good enough to get the job done right.

Thanks

mike

You can find the Bendix AD 9 laying around everywhere. If you will take the time to look, someone will give you one. Just be sure to get the mounting brackets to go with it. They have been used for a number of years, and do a good job. The best thing about these is that you can completely rebuild it for around $75.00. You will need to take the filter to turn in, as the core charge is about as much as the filter. Fleet Pride, or Truck Pro, usually stocks the unloader kit and the filter.

You're right - that's really good.

Just another reminder that every elected official, every government employee,

and every county, town and school employee works for us.

And we let them get away with everything that is happening.

It won't change until we change it. Period.

Vote in new people, and enact term limits of two terms each, just for starters.

And send these SOB's all of your letters, e-mails and phone calls.

Let them know that you have had enough! Do it Now!!

Paul Van Scott

Paul, one term is enough. As written, our constitution provided for a complete turn over every 6 years. 8 republicans just helped pass a climate bill that is no more than an energy tax. The only effect that anyone anywhere will see is a shrinking wallet. All 8 of them need to be out on their ass ASAP. One of the problems as I see it is that just about everyone thinks that their Congressman is fine. It is everyone elses' who is a rotten SOB. Let's get rid of all of them, or hold their feet to the fire over passing legislation that they haven't read, or that a Philadelphia lawyer couldn't satisfactorily explain.

great, I got a brush pile I need to burn...send me some wheels too, I...I...I'll think of something.-

Now, if you just want to burn brush, call me the next time you are in Alpharetta. I can fix you up with about twenty. I"ll even help you load and strap them down.

Guy is cleaning out his barn and discovers that he has a few tires in a size he no longer uses on farm trucks. Asks if I'll take and get rid of them for him.

Out of a total of seven tires, five are 10.00RX20 with two virgin steer tires, (Yokahama), two new recap Fidelity brand, and another recap that is excellent. Each of the tires have new tubes and flaps included. I asked about the steer tires and they have less than 7500 miles on them when he swapped to tubeless tires from another truck. The other two are dry rotted so I'l prolly use them for something else.

Be nice to get the flat spot bias tires off the front of one of my trucks. I'll use the caps on my yard dog so reliability won't be an issue as it never leaves the property.

Rob

Free is always my favorite brand.

Apologies for that ill-placed adjective. In fact, most people that I have talked to really like that E9 V8 engine. I simply want to put something together that discusses some of the development and success that Mack enjoyed with the E9. In talking with the folks at the Mack museum, some of the development stuff is still proprietary but I met someone from the Mack plant at the Macungie show last week and he will try to put me in touch the some folks in Hagerstown. Apparently, they still hand-build a few E9's per week for export only. Once I have some names, I'll make a trip down there and see what materials that might be available for public consumption. There was some material posted on this site some weeks ago on the different versions of the E9 that appeared in past issues of the Bulldog magazine. I have those but don't know what year these issues were published. Anyway, thanks for the comments-keep them coming!!

Best regards,

John

The E9 is not just a truck engine, They were also used by the French Army to power battle tanks. They were also used as Marine engines. As big as they are, they are still lighter than other choices, for a reliable 1000 HP.

3900- 4200 ohoms is same as open. It would take a long time to draw down the battiers at that.I think a voltometer in t56he dash will draw some but not enough to draw battiers.The starter motor has no voltage to it untill selnold engagement and the only way a selnold can draw would be deposits build up inside on the contacs. On 31 battiers if you have one dead it will pull the others over time. Process of elimination is what you will have to do. Rob you talking about electric coils reminded me later about a instructor years ago that i had could take both hand and grab all 6 wires in a little engine and kill it. I had forgot about it but i remenber him showing us for some reason and he was our automotive electric instructor.

I once worked in a Chevrolet dealership, One of the fellow's I worked with would pull the coil wire from the distributor of a chevy 6 cylinder engine, hold the wire contact against his palm with his little finger, stick his thumb against the distributor cap, and have someone start the engine. I never tried it myself. I can't stand getting bitten by accident.

I arrived back at my shop after being gone for a month and three trucks with 12 volt 40MT starters have batteries that will not start their respective units. They are not completely flat, but appreciably low so with a boost all roared back to life. My old "Yellow Dog" with a series/parallel switch fired right up. All batteries are group 31 and and are verified good by testing. There is also 1/2-3/4 ampere draw through the circuit any time the batteries are connected to the starter solenoids. This is consistent through all units. Battery cutoff switches could be installed but I'd rather have the problem corrected.

I don't know if this is a common occurance or not. I plan to ask my electrical rebuilder today. I've seen starter draw through the windings due to corrosion but don't know if some units are more suseptable to this or not. None of these trucks have any ancillary equipment installed to cause parasitic losses.

Rob

You probably have already disconnected the alternator, and the main accessory feed cable from the solenoid before testing. Having 4 different units with the same problem is puzzling. Let me know what you find, and I will fix mine. I will send you a new 42 MT solenoid for

a test unit if you like. You could ground it to the engine and see if it makes any difference.

John,

I think I would disagree with the term "infamous".

Anyone I know who has, or currently is, operating an E-9

really likes it.

Two of the contractors who work for us have fleets of five or six

E-9 equipped Macks, and really don't know what they are going to

replace them with, as they time out.

Saw the new truck in Macungie - sure looks good!

Paul Van Scott

I am glad you put your two cents worth in, that's what i am taking issue with.

I need some info on Mack's infamous E9 V8. Anything will do including technical specs, operational stories etc. I intend to write an article for the antique truck mags on this engine and I will acknowledge all. Thanks in advance.

Best regards,

John

Is this article like America's most wanted, most notorious, most ill conceived, or what?

You guys that didn't attend missed one hell of a show. It was planned and executed to the highest degree and the turnout was exceptional for a first year trial. As an added bonus: It didn't rain.

I'm gonna try to help support the growth of this type of activity as I never really thought I'd enjoy myself so much. Really look forward to see a few of you guys there next time. Very easy place to get to with great food, conversation, and of course TRUCKS!!

Al and Tammy were gracious hosts and expended great effort to bring this to fruition. As able I plan to help further with this cause in the future.

Rob

Fantastic, I am glad you had such a good time. As a general rule, truck people are some of the kindest, most generous people you can find. A real joy to be around. Hope you brought home some new recipe's for the Cafe.

If it was an SAE starter it should not be a problem finding a replacement. If you live in an area that has an automotive electrical shop you could possibly borrow a drive end housing, and see if it will match your flywheel housing. The physical dimension of a 12, and a 24 are the same. A 24v SAE starter off a dozer would work as long as the drive gear is compatible with the flywheel. An SAE starter doesn't care what kind of an engine it is mounted on, or which side. Because of warranty issues, and also the fact that I don't enjoy changing starters that much. My preference in the past has been a Delco Remy Reman. I also prefer a 42MT over a 40MT. Beware of local fix it shops, as there is no magic involved in starter repair. However there is sometimes a certain amount of slight of hand.

First make sure the fuel tank vents are open. Then drain the primary filter into a container, and look for a black, grainy substance, similar to fine sand. Sometime with age a rubber lined fuel line will come apart. Part of the line will separate and act like a flap, closing the fuel line under suction. You could disconnect the line at the primary filter, substitute a known good line and run the engine from a fuel can.

Since it is located next to a church, the owner has to be honest and aboveboard. I've heard that old truckers never die, they just get a new Peterbilt. Or maybe that was never lie, hmmm