Bollweevil

Hi all.. I have a bit of a problem.. I have a 1986 Mack superliner with

E6-350

Camel Back deep reduction 4.42's

Fuller 9 speed RT14609A

REAR END RATIO 4.42

RPM SPEED 2100

TIRE SIZE 24.5

CURRENT TOP SPEED 59.89 MPH

My proble is that i cant keep up with the rest of the flock (dump trucks). There all doing 64-70 mph and i'm stuck at 55-60 mph.

what can i do to fix this problem? I'm looking hard at a RTLO 14713A or RTLO 16913A 13 speed . I really don't think that tapping in to the the rear ends is a good idea...probly PRICEY

any advice would be EXTREMELY appreciated...

The truck has been fully restored with a completely rebuilt engine ... oh and i'm also looking for an air ride cab conversion kit too...thx

The 14609A is a direct, or 1 to 1, you need a 14609B which is a .73 overdrive. you would still have a reasonably low first gear, and it is common enough to be reasonably priced. An 8LL would be even better, you could have the same overdrive ratio, and deep reduction. They are somewhat pricey though.

As I've recently learned it is common for the plastic gear on the fuel pump of an e-tech to spin the middle of it out and then learned that mack smiles when they ask you $260 EXCHANGE for a REBUILT one my question is, " where can i buy a new gear " ? Before any of employees of mack dealerships chime in, I know the textbook answer is " not servicable seperately " as I've been told a dozen times in the last 12 hours. I call bullshit on that one. If these pumps are "REBUILT" and they want my "CORE" someone is gonna fix it. Well I took the gear off my pump and then knocked the brass insert out and punched about 30 or so divets in it with a punch and then mixed me up some JB Quick and smeared around on it and drove the insert back in the plastic gear and let it dry while I ate lunch and then pressed it back on the pump pushing only on the brass insert with a socket and the pump ran the rest of the day perfectly. I dont want to ride around wondering when the JB Quick is gonna give up but I dont want to buy a $260 pump either when all I need is a gear that I know is out there somewhere, where ever these cores are rebuilt. Does anyone have an inside track on how to get a new plastic gear. Hopefully someone on the forum knows someone that will help a brother out and not just gouge us for a whole new pump. Ive searched it every way I can think of on google and came up with no names for pump rebuilders that might point me the right direction for parts. I know the parts counter at mack aint gonna help, all they know is "not servicable seperately". When I asked him why they wanted my old pump if those gears were non existent he said "I dont know" Thanks in advance for all help. I know that this might seem petty to some but I believe in fixing things not just replacing them. If my bearing goes out in my alternator, I put a bearing in it, I dont just run buy a new alternator, know what I mean? I know there are more of you out there like this, lets hear it!!!

I don't see that knowing how something works, and being able, and or willing to repair it yourself, is is either foolish, wasteful, or blowing good money. In the distant past we had to fix stuff. Locally rebuilt parts usually were not worth what they would bring for scrap, and warranty would not pay to replace repairable parts. Bosch doesn't seem to service the gear. Diesel Plus, Ringgold GA. 706 866 3619, can have a new Bosch lift pump delivered to your door for $189.60 plus shipping, no core. Ask for John, if interested

.

I buried my first born son on account of that son of a bitch and others like him, wipe em all out, be fine with me. I hope he suffered a lil anyway, may he rot in hell,,,,,,,,randyp

I too am sorry to hear about your son. Paybacks are hell, as the saying goes, and hell is not full.

I buried my first born son on account of that son of a bitch and others like him, wipe em all out, be fine with me. I hope he suffered a lil anyway, may he rot in hell,,,,,,,,randyp

The way the story goes is like this, When he opened his eyes in his after life, George Washington walked up and cold cocked him, followed by Thomas Jefferson, Patrick Henry, James Madison, and a host of others. Such treatment, he complained, I am supposed to be attended by 72 virgins. No MF, you have it all wrong, you are being tended to by 72 Virginian's was the reply.

Instead of burying him at sea, they should have brought him back to Iowa and fed him to the hogs, nationally televised.

You run a good change of spling a brg if you use it with coolant in the oil. No short cuts to the repairs you need.

Antifreeze is just like sugar, or has the same effect, when mixed with engine oil. I wouldn't run it any longer than it takes to get it in the shop. Certainly not under a load.

Great pictures there! I went down the old crooked road with the switchbacks and across the dam itself years ago. Pulled over at the end to look it over, but I don't think cameras had been invented at that time. Very impressive sight to see anyway.

I used to stop at the top of the hill at the first casino. to pick up Nevada permits. Traffic was so heavy the last time I crossed, my son got out of the truck, took pictures and got back in before I got across.

Hi every one. First off I have read through the entire electrical topic for a similar problem. I have a 2003 ch613 that has been slow to turn over for a week or so. Sometimes it would just click, like the battery's were dead or the solenoid was bad. I checked the wires last week and didn't find anything wrong. I also checked the battery's, and they are fine. Well a driver tried to start it yesterday and he said and it tried to start, but then he smelled burning wires. I had a look and sure enough the little solenoid wire and a larger wire to the starter were burnt up close to the starter. I think the starter is bad, but want a few more opinions. I would like to know how much juice should come through the little wire to the solenoid, and how much should come through the large wire. I read everything before I post hoping to find a solution. Haven't had any luck with this little problem. Any help sure would save the day. thanks in advance.

Electrical problems can sometimes be difficult to sort out. As the old saying's go, there are two side to every story, or two sides to every coin. There are two sides to an electrical system. Positive and negative. Both are equally important, but, the negative side is often neglected. You can have good hot batteries, and still have low voltage at the starter, due to loose, or faulty ground straps. Your truck should have an engine to chassis ground, and a chassis to body ground in addition to the battery to engine ground. To further complicate things, it is possible to have a battery which checks good voltage wise, and still doesn't have the amperage to turn the starter. It would only take one, in the battery group, to leave you sitting. Starters are mechanical, and they do go bad over time. Anything other than a drive gear can usually go right back to low voltage. A short in the primary cable to the solenoid, would likely melt the cable and, or catch the truck on fire. Melting insulation at the solenoid without frying the solenoid is unlikely. You might not like to hear this, but You can buy a Cummims rebuilt SAE starter with a two year warranty at a decent price.

Only, if at some point, you had to get out and push it.

This morning at 2:58a.m. my son called announcing the arrival of baby "Brooklyn Renee" at 7lbs, 5oz at 20 inches into this world. She is our first grandchild.

"Momma" and I are very proud.

Rob

If I wasn't so tickled for you, I would probably be jealous.

Ok here it goes. I got a 98 Pete factory 4axle for Heavy haul. Running a 3406E 600 hp Cat. with an 18. Been tossing the idea around of when this trans goes out swapping in a 5x4. Will they handle this motor? I have 4.11 on the high side and 5.60 in the on the low side in the back. I grew up watching my dad shift his Mack and know they have a hell of a trans. Any other ideas? Also thinking about swapping in the 2 speeds for 4.56 singles with cross locks. What kind of road speed might I be looking at?

456's with tall rubber and a .73 overdrive would give you almost 72 MPH at 1900 Rpm. To further satisfy your curiosity go to to the Road ranger home page, scroll down to tools you can use and choose the road speed calculator. You can use the site to find torque ratings on about any products that Eaton Road Ranger offers. 5&4 and 6&4 set up's are usually Spicer. I am sure they have something heavy enough.

Hi guys, wondered if anybody ever ran into this. Have a 8LL that repeatedly pops out of 4th & 8th gear thoughout the day. Loaded or empty, on the fuel or not, just doe'nt want to stay in that hole. Replaced detent springs in shift tower,but did'nt make a differance. Could the shift forks in the trans. need replaced ? Thanks for any help,Rich.

The fork may be bad also, but the problem is more than likely the main shaft high, or head gear, and it's shifter clutch. When an Eaton transmission begins to slip out of any gear, it will soon round off both the shifter clutch and the gear to the point that it will not stay engaged. A bungie strap or forked stick wont even help.

Don't run the engine with a bent harmonic balancer! You will destroy the block, and crankshaft if not done already!! Pull the bent balancer from the crankshaft, set a dial indicator up on the front of the engine and check for bending of the snout through 360 degrees of engine rotation by hand. Hardly any deflection of the needle on the indicator denotes a scrap crankshaft.

Rob

A new balancer is not cheap. Even though they are prone to run a long time, they are still considered to be a maintenance item. They should be inspected regularly and replaced if suspect. They are a lot cheaper however than an engine. If you just have to find a used one, pick it up and shake it, if it rattles it is no good, inspect it for leaks, dents, or bulging. Clean the paint off on both sides in an area 90 degrees apart, thats 4 places. Measure it with a micrometer at these places you should have no more than .010 difference.

hey barry, i got really used to the forums page as my opening page when i log on. then suddenly i have the portal page up every time i log on. how do i get my forums page back as my opening page again? thanks----aj

You can bookmark it again, or add it to your favorites again, or if it is, as mine, really one of your favorites, bring the forum page up, click on and hold Todays active content, drag it up to the tab bar and release. Then when you wish to visit the site, just click on Todays active content, and you are there.

when i dropped the crank out the 4 halves fell out. the number 4 cap has pegs that hold 2 halves but i see nothing to hold the other 2 halves. does anybody know what is going on?

The pins in the cap hold the lower thrust washers in place, the crankcase is machined to hold the upper washers in place against the thrust surface of the crank. Once the cap is installed, the pinned lower washers keep the uppers from turning.

I am with Trent on this deal. When you get down to who is in charge of individual safety, it is always the operator. Any HOS directive that penalizes a driver for having the good since for taking a short nap to avoid rush hour traffic, is just wrong. I like the idea of hacking the devices. I always thought someone should come up with a device to counter police radar. Something that would set their car on fire would be appropriate. For all the hype about driver fatigue no one will ever address the stolen time issue, or who is stealing it.

I am having a Mack Lanova Diesel rebuilt from a 1950 LFT. The heads are cracked and I have a second set of heads, but they are different angles and I do not have enough good valves for either set. Does any one have a source for valves? They have the 45 degree seat. Parts numbers 690GC291 inlet and 688GC2180 exhaust. I tried John Chalmers, but did not get an answer. Watts does not have them. Mechanic has found them at $85 each. I need eight so $680 plus shipping. Maybe I should just buck up and buy them. Sorry guys, I bought the truck apart so I do not have any good pictures.

Thanks,

Michael Yarnall

Rev Racing can make any valve that you need. Give them a call.

this seems odd to me. this is not a mack but a international. i developed a wheel seal leak about 3 weeks ago and i am in the process of getting it replaced. but last week i noticed what looks like a fair bit of oil coming out of the vent hole at the top of the housing.

what is going on? do you guys think because the wheel seal is leaking it has something to do with it??

thanks

Checking the axle vents should be part of your regular pm program. It is a fact of life that they will clog under normal to dusty conditions. most vents have a cap which is loose on the stem. Pick up on the cap with your fingers and spin it, that is all it takes.

A pressurized housing could lead to a failed seal. Time. temp, and mechanical also can contribute, although a wheel seal can fail for no apparent reason at all.

Understanding how and why components function, along with good pm help, but sometimes just to get your attention a truck will reach out and bite you on the ass anyway.

DAMMIT BOY

I have what I believe is an early T84 transmission. From what I understand, they were used in '37-40 Mack 2M4A (along with some Studebaker and Nash). I'm posting here to see if anybody recognizes this transmission or the markings on it. The trapezoidal logo is on the right hand (passenger) side of the transmission. It is also on the front main drive gear bearing retainer along with the number 7050. There is a drain plug and fill plug on the left hand (driver) side. I'm restoring a WWII jeep and the case looks like an early version of the T84J that I have. If it were WWII vintage I would expect it to have either Ford or Willys markings on it, though. There is no casting date on the rectangular boss or any other markings that I can see. Thanks in advance for any help.

Regards,

Bill

If someone here does not recognize this, redirect your inquiry to Atlanta Gear and Axel 404 691 7662. Someone there can probably identify it.

My compliments to the driver's artistic talent.

Rob

A least he or she missed the pole.

I am impressed.

These tires seem to be a used truck dealer's delight. I've spoken with a lot of folks that have tried the brand, and have not been happy with either durability, or longevity.

I appreciate everyone's opinion and think I'm going to go with a better tire. My stuff is always inside unless being used so dryrot and UV breakdown is not near as prevelant as something sitting out of doors always. Don't really mind spending the bucks to get top quality tires but the end use is a big player.

Thanks,

Rob

Over the years, I have run all kinds. These days, a bargain on a quality tire, might be hard to find. Dealer support is a contributing factor. If I had to have a pair of steer tires first thing in the morning. Dunlop would be my choice. I never had a bad one. If I'm not mistaken their casings are made in a Bridgestone plant. A few years ago, you could buy a Dunlop for slightly less than a $100.00 less than the other major brands.

Welcome to BMT!

Welcome, Keep plugging along, ask questions, always check your work, you don't have to know everything to be a good mechanic, you just have to know how to find out.

Can't understand what caused all the vibration.

As you can see, grease was getting in. But just some of it.

hadn't taken grease in a long time.

Years ago, I had replaced a U joint with a no name bargain joint. It failed after a couple of month's, threw a shaft, wiped out a front diff yoke, and left me stranded on the side of the road in the middle of the night. When I got the thing apart, I discovered that one side of the cross had never been drilled, no way it could take grease. Since then I have never used anything but a Spicer joint.

If you are losing oil at the jake brake housing, it would be easy to find. Pull the valve covers and watch while an assistant starts the engine. Why an assistant? They could also shut it off before it makes too big of a mess. Any oil loss at the jake housing is unacceptable. I once had to do a roadside repair for a friend, whose jake had come apart under pressure and blew a hole as big as a golf ball in the top of the valve cover. A 3406 has rocker arm stands like an FE Ford. The jake oils through a ported alignment stud which is press fitted into the top of the stand. It is sealed by an o ring. Take the cover off and look, and you wont have to guess.

I just noticed your address. West Texas Peterbilt is the place to go , in your area.