Phase 1

Some early engines used rotary intake and exhaust valves instead of the more commonly used poppet valves. I have read about them but do not remember what kind of engine or vehicle used them, possibly it was Mack. Have found a reference to the Russell-Rees Rotary Valve Engine Corporation being incorporated in 1927 in Wilmington Delaware. Possibly Rees had earlier pioneered or manufactured that valve type and Mack had used it in early engines.

14 hours ago, h67st said:

The wheels I have are all pretty badly cracked, and I don't want to mortgage my house to get one recast. If anyone has a decent one they'll sell please let me know. Otherwise I guess I'll have to putty it up and paint it. If you have any tips on fixing the cracks, please post them.

There are kits to repair them. Google steering wheel repair. You will also find places that do steering wheel repair..

I will take a guess at Cline.

On 11/5/2021 at 11:20 AM, Freightrain said:

The smaller 53 ci motors really buzz when you wind them up.  Something the larger 71 and 92 just dont do.

Yes, true screamers  

It appears the seal that is leaking is on the shaft.

On 10/24/2021 at 7:32 PM, theakerstwo said:

corvair

   and the Oldsmobile Jetstar.

From what I have found, the lock collar type costs more and takes longer to assemble in production, but it is stronger. The one piece assembly will move out of place easier. Plus it is said that when the screws are tightened in the one piece, they will jack the race out of round.

15 hours ago, oldspwr said:

The lock ring just holds the inner race of the bearing in place.  There is a set screw that tightens up against the shaft.

If the lock ring is not tightened in the correct direction, the inner race can back off leaving it loose on the shaft. Of course, that cannot be done when the shaft turns both ways.

There are bearings with an extended race that have 2 set screws in the race that would work in an application of turning both ways. On a steering shaft I don't think the eccentric type will be a problem.

On 10/1/2021 at 10:41 AM, oldspwr said:

When I last left off I had just finished working on the air inlet piping from the air filter to the turbo.   I had decided not to install the drag link or pitman arm until the truck was just about ready to be driven because without these items it allowed me to get closer to the motor.  But since I was 99% done with everything I decided to install them.

After I installed them I realized the drag link between the steering arm and the pitman are was not even close to being parallel with the frame.  The pitman arm still had to get pressed on at least another 1/4" but even with that I wasn’t close.  I crawled under my Dad’s 361 and that drag link was fairly parallel to the frame but it also had a ‘job’ in it.  At that point I remembered that Russ had given me a 1/2" spacer with a Sheppard box. 

I did have some room between the steering box and the radiator so I decided to install it.  Instead of removing everything, I cut the spacer in half and then installed one half at a time.  In the meantime I stopped to check out the progress on Paul Polcha’s 761 and his setup looked very similar to mine so I was comfortable with installed the pitman arm on the rest of the way...

After I was done moving the steering box, connecting the drag link to the steering arm and adjusting the ball and socket spring end, I slid the steering shaft on.  Once I did I realized that all the U joints were very tired and the bearing at the bottom of the fire wall was tight.  For some reason I completely forgot about these.  Fortunately Napa has the U joints in stock (part number UP861 or Neapco 1-1475)...

After I disassembled the shaft I realized the u joint cups were spinning in one of the joint ends (the yellow one) but I was able a better one in my collection...

The other bearing I mentioned is located at the bottom of the firewall where the steering shaft goes through.  These are the parts that hold it in place...

This bearing is held in place with a lock collar and set screw, just like the shafts on my snowmobiles.  This bearing is a Fafnir RA100RRB and it comes with the lock collar...

I wound up sandblasting all the parts, giving them a coat of black paint and reassembled everything.  

More to follow...
 

The lock collar should be tightened in the direction of rotation. But the steering shaft rotates both ways! So how do you tighten it? 

At the RPMs of a steering shaft it probably doesn't matter!

About 1944-1947 GMC 900 series. 6-71 engine.

And beside the paint, the roller skate wheels don't do it for me. Why do they put big trucks on a 1 ton chassis?

Those are melons.

What is the model number?

Tire damage wasn't the concern. It was to prevent the bumper from hitting the tire and causing the loss of steering control which would result in a crash. 

For pictures, do a search here for en510. That manifold would be very desirable to many owners.

I was thinking because it is a dump truck, possibly a stone caught between the duals. But you have probably checked for that.

On 3/29/2021 at 10:01 PM, Mdmccurr said:

I need a front bumper for a 1978 U model ( same bumper as R model).  But I want one that is not chrome and can only find the chrome ones for sale. Any ideas besides junkyard?

If nothing else, you could buy a chrome one and sandblast the chrome off and paint it.

It has "very rare Original Fiberglass Front Fenders"?  Have never heard of those.

11 hours ago, mattb73lt said:

I'd start by requesting the build records using the VIN, from the Mack Museum, if you haven't already. Then research the company that built the body. Make some connections with groups that collect/restore buses. Internet searches can be very helpful for photographs, technical info and other connections. In time, you'll built those contacts and sources to get the info and input to get the restoration done.

The Mack museum has been closed due to the virus, so it will be a while for an answer if you ask for information. When they finally do reopen, there is going to be a big backlog and it could take a long time for a response. Get your request in now so you are in line.

They rely on donations for operation of the museum.

On 2/12/2021 at 7:10 AM, 85snowdog said:

Your truck looks good. I love the all season shop its in . I'm guessing if you want under a roof or in a shop its to avoid the sun .

Do you have a hard time finding brake parts for your truck ? I'm one of a few that still run spoke wheels.   But in my part of the world its getting difficult to get parts , and if you can find them they are VERY expensive. The steer axle is the worst. The drives are not as bad . 

Maybe you can import the parts from Australia cheaper!   😁

Pressure wash it and blow it dry.

That was a short lived model. Not many were built. It would be good to have one today.

142 of them were built.

Door seal info.

1 hour ago, SkippyMack said:

 My husband had my generator rebuilt as an early Christmas present 

 

A greater love no man hath...