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Freightrain

BMT Benefactor
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Posts posted by Freightrain

  1. Ouch! Did the switch come with a wiring diagram?

    I hated when I screwed with mine as I knew it would be a bad day when I smoked it by hooking something up wrong.

    Seems like you might need to reconfirm each cable and see where it got switched. Sounds like you got something grounded out or two batteries hooked directly together?

  2. 7 yrs on the road and I don't get too worried when the fuzz is around, even when I crossed the scales.

    I looked in your profile, but didn't see the pics(only the truck).

    Usually in the rely post there is a "IMAGE" insert box you can click and it will link it to the post. Every website has a slightly different procedure, but not difficult.

  3. Ya, Mike. My g/f and I were making plans to come over, but after it raining for the second straight day we decided against it this morning. Sure would have like to come.

    Seems I recall there are two long screws that hold the whole deal together. It's been 6+ yrs since I had to play with mine(and don't miss it). I guess when they work good, they're good. Mine got to the point of "on my last nerve" and removed all of it.

  4. My B was like that when I bought it. I finally bit the bullet and had it rebuilt(I think it was a TruFlo 500?). Mason Truck Parts in southern Ohio did the job. One day out, one day there, one day back and I was back in business. Wasn't cheap($500), but purrs like a kitten and uses NO oil. It came back painted black again, so wonder if they just duplicate what it was or should follow some "code"?

    It's taken a few years, but finally doesn't bleed oil down the dash!

    Welcome to the site. Hope you find it as useful/friendly as the rest of us.

  5. I like the visor too. I thought Barry was going to work on a deal to get them to the states? Been maybe a year now?

    I usually lock mine up when I'm at the race track, as I've had a few individuals just "hop in" without asking!! Um....Please get out of my truck!!! I'll be the first offer a look inside, but surely don't walk up and get in unannounced. At a truck show I'll leave it open, but there isn't anything inside that is free to take. I keep everything locked in the box behind cab.

  6. Reach under the dash with a wire lead and jump the two terminal and try starter button. This will confirm a key is needed. Simple fix, like Herb mentioned.

    If you don't want to buy a new switch, then take it to local locksmith and have them key it for you. My truck had different door locks and ignition(what a pain). I pulled the doors and had them made to fit the ignition key.

    If I recall correctly, my key says Briggs/stratton on it?

  7. Once you tell them the seal number, they'll give you the proper sleeve to repair the yoke. Heck, I probably still have the information from mine. Your's a double reduction?(likely).

    Ok, seems we might have a discrepency on our conversation. I am starting to think you might be talking about "BACKLASH" in the pinion. The effect you can rotate the pinoin/yoke back and forth? It goes clunk clunk? This is common and is not something you'll need to adjust. The "wobble" we are referring to is up/down motion of the yoke itself. That could be caused by loose nut or worn bearings, though likely in your case it's just loose pinion nut.

    You mention groove in pinion shaft? Shouldn't cause any issue, as the seal rids on yoke, and that's where the speedi sleeve would be put.

  8. There should be just about no slop in the pinion, as the bearings are preloaded tight and this does not allow for side movement. Unless of course if the bearing are worn it will have slop. There again, like Herb mentioned, the fact the nut might be loose(like mine was way back when) and that will cause a leak(like mine did way back) as it will allow the shaft to move around and let oil leak around the seal. It is tighter then a wheel bearing, as there is a solid spacer that adjusts the preload and on a wheel bearing, there is no spacer.

    Ya, a speedi sleeve is an expensive little #($*&, like $30? give/take. It comes with a sleeve to install it with and it has to be done with care or you'll screw up the sleeve and buy another one! I've always used a std seal with no problems. the sleeve is very, very thin and the seal has plenty of room for give. Make sure to lube up the seal surface with grease so it doesn't run dry at first drive.

    When you do tear it apart, look at the surface where seal rides on the yoke. If it's got any wear/groove in it, you're better to sleeve it as if you don't get the marks covered up it will tear the new seal. Sometimes emery paper will fix it well enough, but if you can feel anything fix it right.

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