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doubleclutchinweasel

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Everything posted by doubleclutchinweasel

  1. doubleclutchinweasel
    Mine had the seal ring slipped-on, with an o-ring seal, and an index pin. The two sides were different. One had a captive o-ring in a groove in the seal ring. One had a recess in the seal ring which located the o-ring. Must have been replaced at different times. Took the knuckles to work today and used the arbor press to make the in-and-out a little easier. Also cleaned on them some. I got everything back together this evening. Worked on it about 4 hours yesterday, and about 10 today. So busy I forgot to take pictures! Since you did yours so much faster, you must be a lot better mechanic than I am! Either that, or you had all the right tools and parts. My wife said you may have also had a pit crew! Took me the better part of an hour to indicate the wheels in and get them torqued-down nice and straight. Drove it down the road. Much less wallowing and wobbling in the front end. Steering noticeably tighter. Got back home and topped-off the oil levels in the hubs by flashlight. Have a hood ornament coming. Should be here next week. That may be all for this winter. Well, maybe replace the LQ-2 valve for the front brakes (leaks a little). But, that's not too bad. More to come... Kent
  2. doubleclutchinweasel
    Thanks everybody. I took the tires & wheels off. Drained the oil-filled hubs. Took off the nuts & washers. Pulled the outer bearings out. Backed off the brakes. Pulled the hubs off. The wear rings came out with them. They are o-ringed to the spindles, not pressed on. Took the backing plates off. I need to get the seal rings out of the seals. They are indexed by a pin, so I will need to install them first before the hubs go back on. Tomorrow I'll start taking the knuckles apart. Wish me luck! Kent
  3. doubleclutchinweasel
    Did yours use the needle bearing on the top side? Yours have brakes on this axle? Kent
  4. doubleclutchinweasel
    So, I ordered the kingpin/bushing set this morning. Should have it this week some time...maybe in time to work on it this weekend. I was debating whether to pull the wheel/tire/hub off as a single unit, or to take the wheel/tire off first. Any advice? I'm assuming you put new seals in the hubs, while you had them out? Also, did you "drive" your bushings/seals in & out? Or did you have access to an arbor press? And, in general, anything you might remember about this, and would be willing to share, would be much appreciated. I hope to have some pictures to post, once I get it all torn down. I'm just hoping and praying the knuckles are good, once i get them stripped down. I'm due for SOMETHING to go easy on this thing! Kent
  5. doubleclutchinweasel
    Ever find out if you had any letters or other bits and pieces? Kent
  6. doubleclutchinweasel
    Cool. Let me know what you find. I was just looking on eBay and CraigsList for some of the other stuff. Also thought I might want to check the "For Sale" stuff here (Duh!). Thanks, Kent
  7. doubleclutchinweasel
    Okay! I promised myself I wouldn't "waste" money on cosmetic parts this early on. But, I need to fix a couple of things which are driving me CRAZY (I know...short trip). I need a dog for the front of my R600. I need the WHOLE dog, with base. This is the "old", flat-hood type (R, DM, U). Mine was stolen long ago. I don't want to spring for a new set just yet. I'll do that when I do the cab and hood work. I just need a usable one for now. Same deal for the "K" on the front. Mine is missing. This is, again, the "old" type, which are much smaller letters than the later stuff. Finally, I could use the Mack scripts off the sides of the hood (both sides). Dog, "K", and "Mack" scripts...in that order. Reasonably priced. Don't need "new" quality...just decent stuff (for now). I'll buy all brand-new parts as needed when I get to the body work. I just can't stand looking at that missing dog, or that "MAC" on the front any longer! (see my logo) What's anybody got??? Kent
  8. doubleclutchinweasel
    Sounds like a plan. Love to see the results. Kent
  9. doubleclutchinweasel
    Yeah, I just tied in to the flex somebody had already run from the down pipe to the back of the cab. It was in perfect shape, so I didn't figure there was any point in replacing it. The little hanger I made makes this mounting very solid. I don't know if the bracket may need re-inforced to keep from straightening out or not. If it does, I'll pull it off and add a "spine" to it. But, like I said, it seems very solid now. Best of luck on yours, Kent
  10. doubleclutchinweasel
    It was pretty easy. Even the bracket was not too hard. Good luck. And let me know if I can offer any info. Kent
  11. doubleclutchinweasel
    Awesome, Dude!
  12. doubleclutchinweasel
    Cool! Why am I not surprised that you posted the first reply, Vinny! I look forward to seeing yours, too. I'm trying to keep this thing on a budget, & making my own parts goes a long way. I hope seeing these posts will help somebody else who's in the same boat. Kent
  13. doubleclutchinweasel
    Got the new pipe made to go from the underside of the cab up to the stack. Bought a commercial 90, and a commercial 60. Cut a short piece off the end of the 90, and spliced it in between the 2 pieces. Fabricated a simple hanger to better support the bottom end of the 90. Don't have a MIG welder, so it was welded up with 1/16" 7014 rod, at about 40 amps, on "electrode negative" (straight) polarity. Scuffed the aluminizing off at the joints. Welded in about 3/8" long "stitches". Sprayed a little hi-temp paint on the welds to slow down old man rust. Nice to have the noise go out the top again! Kent
  14. doubleclutchinweasel
    I guess I'd better make a new pipe to go between the flex-pipe (coming from the engine compartment) and the stack. I'm not a huge fan of flex, but it works, and the piece is in excellent condition. The elbow is burned out, and the hanger, which uses a pipe clamp, is cutting through the old rusty pipe. I'm going to try and use "standard" bits and pieces (see image, below), and try to avoid having to cobble too much. I'll get all relative dimensions this weekend, and try to sketch up something workable. And, hopefully, it'll even fit! Hopefully, I'll have a picture or two of the results in a few days. Kent
  15. doubleclutchinweasel
    I've been trying to figure that one out, myself. The "standard" 1-1/8" threads are 7TPI and 12TPI. So, those taps WOULD be fairly common. The 16TPI, however is not "standard" on any 1-1/8" bolt. But, 16TPI threads are one of those "universal" threads which can be used on practically anything. We make production parts with "16 series" threads, and I have been known to use 16TPI threads on special tooling I've designed. So, whether it was easier or not, we may never know. I'm just glad you keyed me in on the fact that they MIGHT be different...which they were. So, thanks again for that. Kent
  16. doubleclutchinweasel
    Sent Adelman's a message. Haven't heard back yet. You know, the "different pitch" method on the threads is not that weird. Years ago, I saw an automatic screw machine which was tapping a hole. The spindle turned the same direction all the time. The tap, likewise, turned the same direction as the part. The only way they could drive the tap in and remove it, without being able to reverse either, was to change the speed of the tap. When the spindle rotated faster, the tap pulled into the hole. When the spindle rotated slower, the tap backed out. Basically, it's the same principle...differential movement. Think of it as the "delta" of the 2 pieces...speed on the tapping operation, and distance on the tie rod ends. Okay. Enough geekiness for now! Kent
  17. doubleclutchinweasel
    Just for kicks... Here are a few shots of the underneath. I have removed 40+ years worth of Grease-crete, and everything has been soaked down with PB Blaster. This helps loosen everything up, and makes the remaining crud a little easier to remove. Once I get going, I don't think this will be too bad...as long as I dont run into any "unexpected" problems in there! Kent
  18. doubleclutchinweasel
    Yep. That sounds like what I did to the front tires. I still have a lot of work to do. But, every little bit helps! Thanks, Kent
  19. doubleclutchinweasel
    Thanks, Ron. That is what they look like. The pictures, below, show the different pitches. I thought it was funny that someone laughed at me, and insisted they were the same pitch, when I had the pitch gage in my hand! People are funny! The bottom pic is the LH end, with 16TPI (see the number?), and the top is the RH end with 12TPI (pardon the crud!). I would have never guessed they did this. But, seeing is believing! And, hey...it IS Mack we're talking about! Thanks again, Kent
  20. doubleclutchinweasel
    The 10QH38 crosses over to a CarQuest number 401-1118, which is also an ES-405R. This part matches all the dimensions I can currently get off the RH (bent) tie rod end. This part has 1-1/8" - 12 RH threads on it. The 10QH37 DOES NOT CROSS OVER to anything in the CarQuest "fleet parts" catalog. This is also the one which appears to use a 1-1/8" - 16 thread. I can't tell if it is LH or RH yet. Hopefully, I will be able to see it better this evening. So, there may or may not be an aftermarket alternative to the 10QH37. May have to spring for the Mack part there. Interestingly, the nice lady at the parts counter gave me not only the Mack part number for the drag link end, but the TRW number as well. She did not, however, have a TRW number for either of the tie rod ends. More to come... Kent
  21. doubleclutchinweasel
    Well, I thought so originally. But, the thread pitch gages seem to say otherwise. The 12 TPI gage fits perfectly on the RH end, BUT, this is the damaged one. So, I don't feel 100% comfortable with this one. The 16 TPI gage fits perfectly on the LH end, and this one is pristine. So, I feel pretty good about it. I may never know for sure until I pull 2 new Mack-sourced tie rod ends out of the box. If I can get a little more daylight tomorrow evening, I'd like to get underneath, and check the thread pitch in the slots of the tube. They should be easier to gage there. I have reason to believe there may be something odd about one of the ends, because the Mack part number for one end DOES cross over to a "standard" part, but the other one does not. Can't remember which one is which. But, Mack lists the numbers as 10QH37 and 10QH38. More to come... Kent
  22. doubleclutchinweasel
    Hey, Vinny!
  23. doubleclutchinweasel
    Well, I just dicovered that the left end is 16 TPI and the right side is 12 TPI.
  24. doubleclutchinweasel
    Okay. I finally got to look closely at the tie rod ends. And, you are correct! The left side is 16 TPI, and the right side is 12 TPI. That would probably explain why 1 of the Mack tie rod ends crosses over to a standard number while the other one does not.Thanks for the insight. Kent
  25. doubleclutchinweasel
    Well, While I'm waitin' to get all the parts identified and located for the front end rebuild, I'm still tryin' to get in my daily allotment of "tinkering"! The steering gear was WAY out of center on my R600. The steering arm was mis-indexed on the steering box. And, the front end had a wicked bounce in it at highway speeds. So, I knocked the drag link loose, and re-mounted the steering arm onto the steering gear output shaft, with the timing marks aligned. Somebody had used a 5/8" pinch bolt on it. I replaced that with a new 3/4" grade 8 bolt and nut. With the wheels pointed more-or-less straight ahead, and the steering box more-or-less centered (about 3-1/4 turns from either stop to center), the drag ling stud would not re-engage. So, I screwed the adjustable ball (looks like a big tie rod end) in as far as I could get it. Could have used 1-2 more turns on that, as the steering wheel/gear is still a fraction of a turn off-center. But, at least it's a lot closer than it was before! I now have full steering to either side. And, the relief poppets in the steering box are kicking in about right...just before the wheel stops make contact. The steering is quite a bit tighter in the straight-ahead mode than it was before. So, maybe there is something to the vicious runor that the steering boxes were made with tighter lash in the center than at the extremes. I also removed both front rims from the spoke wheels, cleaned the mating surfaces, and re-mounted them. I paid attention to the side wobble of the tires, tightening them in a sequence so as to minimize the side wobble, and torqued them to something in the vicinity of the Mack spec. The right front is now almost dead true, and the left front has very little wobble to it. The difference this made in the ride and the controllability of the old truck was unreal! It will now run out to it's top speed (somewhere between 60 & 65 MPH) without the front end bouncing all over the road. The rears still have a bit of hoochy-coo in them, but the front is 10 times better than it was. I know the kingpins and bushings are shot. And, with the bent tie rod/tie rod end, the toe HAS to be out a little. But, this gave me a glimmer of hope that the world can, indeed, be a better place! Not bad for a few minutes wrenching. Now, when I can work on the rest of the front end, it should start to behave like a good puppy! Kent

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