doubleclutchinweasel

We used to cut the pipe off when it rusted out at the top & put rain caps on. Once it rusted out below the caps, we would replace the pipe. Can't tell you how many flappers I saw stuck! They are cool when done right, though. Oh, and the "big" curve on the original B-model pipes are awesome. What about the multi-curved ones on some dump trucks, that snake out from under the bed?

Thanks. And, by the way, the local Mack dealer shows the 14QK2100 in stock at a warehouse. He looked up the 14QK2100P1, and it was "superceded by" the 14QK2100. That would tend to support the "they are the same" theory, as an older number would typically not supercede a later number...unless they were the same part.

So, if I understand you perfectly... A 14QK2100 shock would have been the "original" version of that part. It would have no "P" on it. But, as soon as there was a different version, the new part would become a 14QK2100P2, and the "no P" part would become the 14QK2100P1. Is that the gist of it? The reason I ask is that I can get a 14QK2100 for $68 apiece, and a 14QK2100P1 for $38 apiece. Pretty significant difference! So, as long as it truly is the same part... Ya' see? On a side note, and in defense of some of the guys who have used non-Mack parts, I have had the Mack parts folks (on occasion) give me the vendor (TRW, Moog, etc...) part number for the Mack part. Remember, Mack doesn't make EVERYTHING they use. They make some. They have some made to spec. And, on occasion, they buy an already-existing part.

Ha-ha!!!! That's why I'm here: to entertain!

Information about revisions and such very much appreciated. Yet, you mention the "P1" part. The build sheet calls for "no P" (see original post). I agree with your assessment of the "will fit" parts. They may fit, but the damping rates may not be thecsame as the originals! Thanks again for the info.

I presume you mean the Monroes? And how did you like them?

Thanks, guys. The Monroe 66878 is what I found, as well. And, the Gabriel seems to be an 83221. Anybody used either of those?

Need part number help! Front shocks listed on build sheet as 14QK2100. Found several variations on that (14QK2100P1, or P3, etc...). Trying to cross over to a correct Monroe or Gabriel number. Sometimes the P1 or whatever seems to matter...other times not. Findit parts lists several Mack versions, including the plain 2100 number. Prices vary considerably. Wonder if the P1 or P3 is a revision, or an actual different part. They don't necessarily cross over exactly the same, depending on whose chart you use. Anybody have direct, personal knowledge about this?

Mmmmm....curvy!

I heard it a bit different today. "Chrome won't get you home, but it might get you to HER place." Of course, they might have been talking about motorcycles...

Main considerations were cost & simplicity. The pipe was cheap & took 10 minutes to put on. Plus, back in the day, we never spent extra money on chrome...it didn't make us any more money!

Okay. Got tired of putting a jug over the stack every time it rained. And the black gunk that blew out when it started was a mess. So, here's a new piece of pipe to tote the smoke...and hopefully keep the rain out! Sorry for the sideways pic. Haven't figured out how to rotate them from my phone...

Wow! I just figured somebody needed a key, & only the Briggs & Stratton blank would fit. Had no idea it might be original. Or maybe the B&S stands for something else!

I haven't seen one of those since I was a young 'un! Somebody should start offering reproductions...

Just a coincidence? This is my Mack key!

Drove The Dawg to work 3 times this week. Nothin' like an R-model for a daily driver! Finally did replace the water filter supply hose. It was pretty rough. Of course, when I opened the "spigots" to let the antifreeze back in, they both leaked. $#!&$#. Took them out temporarily & put plain elbows in. Nice thing about an old Mack; you can usually fix one with parts from the hardware store! Seems like we have forgotten that on all the new stuff... By the way, the hose fittings on mine were 45º "SAE" fittings, not 37º "JIC" fittings. ..just in case anybody was interested... All the stuff I've done on this toy so far has been very educational. Sorry I'm not better at documenting it with pictures. But, I would be glad to advise on anything I've learned.

Yeah. You gotta watch the clearance at the drive-thru!

Haven't fixed a blasted thing lately! Just been drivin' it some. Driving to work. Driving to see the grandsons. They like to blow the horn! Here's a picture of the Dawg at dusk, waitin' on a pizza...

Thanks! It's nice to be appreciated for your weaseliness!Kent

All them there shiny new bolts sure make it look purty!

Replaced the leaky rubber hoses on the transmission with tubing this morning. No more leaks! Maybe get some pics this afternoon.

The parts used were as follows: Synchronizer Kit: K-3493 (New Rings and New Sliding Clutch) O-Ring Kit: K-1447 Gasket Kit: K-2199 This K-3493 (formerly K-2447) synchro kit includes the K-2446 kit (improved rings and new springs), and includes the 20336 sliding clutch. This eliminates the trouble of trying to make sure the hub used matches up to the rings used. The 20336 hub has 13 splines. The other hub (20323) has, I believe, 18 splines. I hink that one was found on heavier transmissions. The 20336 replaces the old 16716, and the 20323 replaces the old 16759. The splines in the new hub continue completely through the bore, whereas the original hub in mine only had partial splines, and was relieved the rest of the way through. The new one, therefore, has much more spline engagement. I THINK the K-3491 (formerly K-2445) synchro kit MIGHT have fit the old hub, but don't quote me on that. I felt it wasn't worth fooling around with the old hub, considering the difference in the kit prices. Besides, now i have current parts! The O-ring kit and gasket kit were dirt-cheap, and were actually cheaper then just buying the handful of gaskets and O-rings actually needed. So, that one was a no-brainer!

Everything is back in. Works MUCH better now. A couple of those old air lines still need attention. I'll probably tinker with that a little this weekend.

Mine did it worse when it warmed up. Almost flawless when cold. About 50/50 when warmI tested it by rolling along at about 20 mph, in neutral, clutch released. Switch back & forth between high & low. Worked fine going into high, & always ground going into low. I'm hoping this straightens it out...

A few more in-process shots of the aux box adapter weasel. Guess I'll end up building some other system when I need to pull the tranny.