doubleclutchinweasel

I have 6 20"X8" 3 piece rims for sale and 6 20" budd 2 piece wheels for sale in Louisville, KY. Please contact me if interested.

And I've got a few more of the 2-piece...just in case anyone wants more!

The old style left hand latch is 62QS325C right side is62QS324C.The 62QS424R is the new syle left side.You need the old style for your R Model.

Steve

Where is the break? Is it flat back vs. Plus 3? Didn't realize there was a difference.

Jim

Well, it gets weirder and weirder! I just spoke with a regional Mack parts guy who seemed to know what I was talking about. He also had a 62QS424 on-hand. He says the best way to tell the difference is by the rotating part of the latch which engages the striker. Acording to him, the 62QS325 will have a "gear" on the end of the shaft, while the 62QS424 will have a "Y" on it.

Well, mine has a "Y" shaped gizmo on it, the two prongs corresponding to the two "latchings" the door does when closing. That is, the first is the "safety" latch, and the second is the "full" latched.

I think I'll go down there tomorrow and see what it looks like.

More to come...

Okay...

I finally found a picture of a 62QS424. That is NOT what I have! So, I think you were correct on the 62QS325. But, I can't find a picture of one of those anywhere.

I can see, however, how someone might think the "bunny ears" on the 325 might look like a "gear". But, when I think "gear", I think more than 2 teeth! I guess that's why you should always look before you buy. My parts guy saw those 2 teeth, and thought it was a gear. When he told me the 424 looked like a "Y", I thought about the 2 teeth on mine. But, it turns out that the 424 has a "yoke" sticking out the front of it. probably latches on a "bolt". My unit latches in a "C-shaped" cutout in the striker.

So, again, I think you are correct on the 325. So glad it costs more! Yah!

Well, it gets weirder and weirder! I just spoke with a regional Mack parts guy who seemed to know what I was talking about. He also had a 62QS424 on-hand. He says the best way to tell the difference is by the rotating part of the latch which engages the striker. Acording to him, the 62QS325 will have a "gear" on the end of the shaft, while the 62QS424 will have a "Y" on it.

Well, mine has a "Y" shaped gizmo on it, the two prongs corresponding to the two "latchings" the door does when closing. That is, the first is the "safety" latch, and the second is the "full" latched.

I think I'll go down there tomorrow and see what it looks like.

More to come...

The old style left hand latch is 62QS325C right side is62QS324C.The 62QS424R is the new syle left side.You need the old style for your R Model.

Steve

Thanks. I thought that it was the "older" number. I just didn't know if it was "old" enough!

I've found 2 numbers for LH door latches. They are 62QS325C & 62QS424R.

Does anybody know if either of these fit the "early" R-model doors?

Or is there another part number?

Here's the reason I needed it replaced, and here's the "new" one in place.

I remember a couple people saying something about that. How do i get into it? Any pictures?

A few shots from the service manual...

This was still on eBay. Had one of my local eBay-holics order it for me.

Looks like the rubber insulators are readily available, both from Mack and aftermarket sources.

I love it whan a plan falls together...

Yur not dun yet? Come on let's see sum progress here, lol.

Oh, you funny man! You make my dog laugh!

Seems like keeping the 4-wheelers running has cut into my Dog time lately. Hate working on them-there littl'-uns!

I'll get back to it eventually! In the meantime, I'll do my research & planning. Hopefully it won't be long till I'm back at it.

And, as always, we thank you for your support...

I think that's still on ebay isn't it? relisted?

Thought it sold. Will re-check.

Looks like the most likely candidates for the parts to be used are:

Meritor A3102N3472 Cross Tube.

This is one of the "DS1379S" tubes - 59.4"L x 1.75"D x 1-1/8 - 12 threads. Slightly shorter (0.6") and smaller (1/4") than mine, but should be fine. I like the 1-3/4" diameter better than some folks' 1-1/2" ones.

Have found this tube online for around $130.

ES405L and ES405R Tie Rod Ends.

Not sure whose, yet. These match the stud dimensions on mine. In fact, the curb-side one crosses over to the Mack 10QH38 part. The road-side one is the same, but with LH threads.

These can be had for around $50 each.

The total for the swap should be about $230, which is less than the cost of the OEM Mack cross tube alone! Hey, that's the whole point, isn't it?

Good luck with the swap, post the results and the parts you used for others when you get done.

Will do.

Here's a picture of one that somebody had for sale a while back, just for reference.

I have found enough numbers, thanks to everybody's help, to feel confident that I can swap this over to something a bit more standard.

Thanks, everybody!

I need a spring retainer cap for an FA535 front axle. This is the cap which holds the rubber insulator pads in place on the tail end of the front spring. The one I need is the right (passenger) side one.

The Mack part number 52QK389 is cast onto the cap (see pic).

Oh, if you have a set of the pads, we can talk about that, too. I am waiting on Stengel Bros. to reply as to their stock status on the pads.

Kent

The OD shouldn't matter at all, back when your truck was built the metals weren't available to make it both thin and strong like today so most parts were twice as thick as their newer updated counterparts. Good luck anything in that ballpark should work out fine, just make sure your rod ends are an exact match to the taper on those I listed so they fit your spindles properly.

Yeah. Start with the tapers. Some of these tubes are 1-1/4", not 1-1/8", threads. Again, won't matter as long as the tube, ends, & tapers match.

Thanks again.

ok looks like that assy wont have the right ends for your knuckle the taper is different, you can use a E-4607 rh and an E-4606 LH end with an E-9957 tube, the tube is 59.34" long and the ends are 4.875" long stud center to end that will give you approx 2.5" of thread in the tube on each end. hope that helps ya it should work out great.

I found an Automann number 464.002 on a Euclid cross reference. This one is 60" long & is 2" in diameter like the original, not 1-1/2". Gonna dig more...

ok looks like that assy wont have the right ends for your knuckle the taper is different, you can use a E-4607 rh and an E-4606 LH end with an E-9957 tube, the tube is 59.34" long and the ends are 4.875" long stud center to end that will give you approx 2.5" of thread in the tube on each end. hope that helps ya it should work out great.

I'll check it out. And thanks!

I'll look it up tomorrow, all you really need is for 50% or more of the threads to be inside the tube when its in adjustment, I'm pretty sure I can get a combination that will work out of my books. That was 64.5" end bolt to end bolt centers when they are tight in the knuckles right?

Length confirmed: 64-3/8" c-to-c.

I'll look it up tomorrow, all you really need is for 50% or more of the threads to be inside the tube when its in adjustment, I'm pretty sure I can get a combination that will work out of my books. That was 64.5" end bolt to end bolt centers when they are tight in the knuckles right?

Yes, as near as I can tell. I will double-check this afternoon. it was rainy and dark last night, and the corn liquor had started to affect my measuring ability!

I was using the approximate 60" tube length (from memory), plus about 2-1/4" from the end of tube to the center of the stud for each end. Again, I'll try to get a direct measurement this afternoon.

I found my stud dimension sketch last night. It does appear that the E-4607 and E-4608 are pretty close matches for the old Mack parts I measured when I had the tube out. The "large end" of the taper was the easiest measurement to get, so I am pretty confident in it (1.030-1.031"). The "taper length" is a bit more difficult to measure. Mine LOOKED like it was between 1.100-1.125" long, and theirs is listed as 1.070". Pretty close. Of course, given any difference in the taper length, the "small end" diameter would vary accordingly. But, mine appeared to be around 0.890", where theirs is listed as 0.896". Again, measurement errors could be more than these differences, as could a slightly shorter overall taper length.

how long is the cross tube you have? just measure it and the ends and get one that equals the same length not really a big deal I can get it all out of my book if you measure it for me. just measure the tube from end to end and measure from tie rod end to tie rod end (bolt center to bolt center) I would guess since the 10QH38 or E-4607 is 4.875" lomg, we would need to get you a pair fo 4.875" ends and a cross tube, looks like a E-4611 curbside and an E-4610 roadside both coarse thread and 4.875" long will do for ends then we just ned to know how long of a tube to get.

My tube looks like it's about 60" long. The one Mack spec'd is 60.06". So, I'd say we're pretty close there.

The ends, as you probably already know, are 1-1/8" threads. And the mounting threads are 3/4-16. I have the stud taper dimensions around here somewhere. But the 10QH38 cross reference probably gives that info too.

Actually, I believe your E4607 appears to be the same as the "industry standard" ES405R, which I believe is what I crossed the Mack part over to when I first looked into this.

The overall length looks like about 64-1/2", center-to-center, give or take.

The middle portion of the tube is about 2" in diameter, & steps down to a smaller diameter at each end.

It uses standard "clamps" to lock the tube in position.

If the ES405R and ES405L ends fit the knuckles, than all I really need is a tube which will fill in the gap between them. I don't really care if it is for a Mack, a GMC, a Ford, or a Peterbilt...as long as it'll hold my front wheels straight!

MY B model (FA-517) had the 12 and 16 thread setup...when time to replace I went with different tie rod ends and a new (normal) left-right hand thread setup...

Learn something everyday, it fits Mack would do that if anyone given their desire to be the best back in the hayday of trucking. I would try to swap it to a left and right as stated above so that it was easier and cheaper to rebuild in the future if needed. Good luck whatever you do and get pics on the road when yur done.

I'd love to do that! What cross tube would I use to do that?

I don't really have any junk yards around here to pick from. But, if anybody has a Mack part number for a suitable tube...

Both right hand thread? that seems odd to me if thats right you would have to drop one of the joints to adjust the front end I have always adjusted them by turning the tube with a pipe wrench one end right the other end left hand thread. I'd make sure it wasnt a right and left before you buy, seems odd one side would have fine thread and the other side coarse also I think you got one number wrong but crazier things have happened.

Apparently, this was common on oler Macks (Bs, Rs). When the tube is turned one turn, you get the difference of the two threads (1 coarse & 1 fine), rather than the sum of the two. Makes for VERY fine adjustments!

I didn't realize they had done this till I read it here. Lo & behold, mine was set up this way, too. See my other threads, & you can see the thread gages in the threads.

If they were the same pitch, you would be correct. But, one being coarser than the other gives you the adjustment.

This oddball thread on 1 end is what makes the tie rod end on that end not cross to anyone else's number.

my cros reference book shows a 10QH38 listed for a FA532 side zerk 4.875" length, makes it an E-4607 Euclid for a curbside end. I cant find a reference for an FA535 or a 10QH347 in my Euclid book, what is the front axle rating? are you sure its not an FA536? are they fine or coarse thread?

The 10QH38 crosses over to about anybody's part number. It's 12tpi right hand thread.

The 10QH37 doesn't! It's 16tpi right hand thread, IF that's the number I actually have.

Yep. That's right. Both right hand threads. But a different pitch.

And, yes, it's an FA535 (9,000#).

Did they go by vin#?

Can't really get a straight answer as to whether they used the vin or the axle series (FA535). I did give them the vin. But, all the parts counter folks said they could not access the individual parts breakdown for the axle assembly, only the assembly itself.

They had to contact Mack to get the tube number. That's where my confidence started to fade!

I was hoping this number might ring a bell with some of the old-timers. I'd feel great if I could find that number on the old tube!

By the way, the ends they spec'd were 10QH37 & 10QH38.