doubleclutchinweasel

ok looks like that assy wont have the right ends for your knuckle the taper is different, you can use a E-4607 rh and an E-4606 LH end with an E-9957 tube, the tube is 59.34" long and the ends are 4.875" long stud center to end that will give you approx 2.5" of thread in the tube on each end. hope that helps ya it should work out great.

I'll check it out. And thanks!

I'll look it up tomorrow, all you really need is for 50% or more of the threads to be inside the tube when its in adjustment, I'm pretty sure I can get a combination that will work out of my books. That was 64.5" end bolt to end bolt centers when they are tight in the knuckles right?

Length confirmed: 64-3/8" c-to-c.

I'll look it up tomorrow, all you really need is for 50% or more of the threads to be inside the tube when its in adjustment, I'm pretty sure I can get a combination that will work out of my books. That was 64.5" end bolt to end bolt centers when they are tight in the knuckles right?

Yes, as near as I can tell. I will double-check this afternoon. it was rainy and dark last night, and the corn liquor had started to affect my measuring ability!

I was using the approximate 60" tube length (from memory), plus about 2-1/4" from the end of tube to the center of the stud for each end. Again, I'll try to get a direct measurement this afternoon.

I found my stud dimension sketch last night. It does appear that the E-4607 and E-4608 are pretty close matches for the old Mack parts I measured when I had the tube out. The "large end" of the taper was the easiest measurement to get, so I am pretty confident in it (1.030-1.031"). The "taper length" is a bit more difficult to measure. Mine LOOKED like it was between 1.100-1.125" long, and theirs is listed as 1.070". Pretty close. Of course, given any difference in the taper length, the "small end" diameter would vary accordingly. But, mine appeared to be around 0.890", where theirs is listed as 0.896". Again, measurement errors could be more than these differences, as could a slightly shorter overall taper length.

how long is the cross tube you have? just measure it and the ends and get one that equals the same length not really a big deal I can get it all out of my book if you measure it for me. just measure the tube from end to end and measure from tie rod end to tie rod end (bolt center to bolt center) I would guess since the 10QH38 or E-4607 is 4.875" lomg, we would need to get you a pair fo 4.875" ends and a cross tube, looks like a E-4611 curbside and an E-4610 roadside both coarse thread and 4.875" long will do for ends then we just ned to know how long of a tube to get.

My tube looks like it's about 60" long. The one Mack spec'd is 60.06". So, I'd say we're pretty close there.

The ends, as you probably already know, are 1-1/8" threads. And the mounting threads are 3/4-16. I have the stud taper dimensions around here somewhere. But the 10QH38 cross reference probably gives that info too.

Actually, I believe your E4607 appears to be the same as the "industry standard" ES405R, which I believe is what I crossed the Mack part over to when I first looked into this.

The overall length looks like about 64-1/2", center-to-center, give or take.

The middle portion of the tube is about 2" in diameter, & steps down to a smaller diameter at each end.

It uses standard "clamps" to lock the tube in position.

If the ES405R and ES405L ends fit the knuckles, than all I really need is a tube which will fill in the gap between them. I don't really care if it is for a Mack, a GMC, a Ford, or a Peterbilt...as long as it'll hold my front wheels straight!

MY B model (FA-517) had the 12 and 16 thread setup...when time to replace I went with different tie rod ends and a new (normal) left-right hand thread setup...

Learn something everyday, it fits Mack would do that if anyone given their desire to be the best back in the hayday of trucking. I would try to swap it to a left and right as stated above so that it was easier and cheaper to rebuild in the future if needed. Good luck whatever you do and get pics on the road when yur done.

I'd love to do that! What cross tube would I use to do that?

I don't really have any junk yards around here to pick from. But, if anybody has a Mack part number for a suitable tube...

Both right hand thread? that seems odd to me if thats right you would have to drop one of the joints to adjust the front end I have always adjusted them by turning the tube with a pipe wrench one end right the other end left hand thread. I'd make sure it wasnt a right and left before you buy, seems odd one side would have fine thread and the other side coarse also I think you got one number wrong but crazier things have happened.

Apparently, this was common on oler Macks (Bs, Rs). When the tube is turned one turn, you get the difference of the two threads (1 coarse & 1 fine), rather than the sum of the two. Makes for VERY fine adjustments!

I didn't realize they had done this till I read it here. Lo & behold, mine was set up this way, too. See my other threads, & you can see the thread gages in the threads.

If they were the same pitch, you would be correct. But, one being coarser than the other gives you the adjustment.

This oddball thread on 1 end is what makes the tie rod end on that end not cross to anyone else's number.

my cros reference book shows a 10QH38 listed for a FA532 side zerk 4.875" length, makes it an E-4607 Euclid for a curbside end. I cant find a reference for an FA535 or a 10QH347 in my Euclid book, what is the front axle rating? are you sure its not an FA536? are they fine or coarse thread?

The 10QH38 crosses over to about anybody's part number. It's 12tpi right hand thread.

The 10QH37 doesn't! It's 16tpi right hand thread, IF that's the number I actually have.

Yep. That's right. Both right hand threads. But a different pitch.

And, yes, it's an FA535 (9,000#).

Did they go by vin#?

Can't really get a straight answer as to whether they used the vin or the axle series (FA535). I did give them the vin. But, all the parts counter folks said they could not access the individual parts breakdown for the axle assembly, only the assembly itself.

They had to contact Mack to get the tube number. That's where my confidence started to fade!

I was hoping this number might ring a bell with some of the old-timers. I'd feel great if I could find that number on the old tube!

By the way, the ends they spec'd were 10QH37 & 10QH38.

Mack thinks my tie rod cross tube is a 7QH243. I even have a length from them (60.06") of the tube, which matches mine. I still can't find a number on mine.

Any of you old parts guys know if that sounds right for my 1970 R611ST?

Old parts are non-returnable!

I have 1 gallon buckets over my 6" miter cut stacks to keep the rain out. I found the easy way to get em back off at 12'6" tall is just hit the key on the old E9, it throws em both off a few feet at start up.

Ha! That's what I did with the cut-off anti-freeze jug I was using before I changed the pipe. But, it usually landed between the drive wheels.

Anthony's Loam in Chelmsford,MA has this mint D8K to push up piles

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The D8K (model 77V) was my fav-o-rite tractor. Faster than the D8H, higher ground clearance, more power, & quicker hydraulics. We did, however, bypass the built-in brakes on the steering clutch levers. Otherwise, you would occasionally get a quicker turn than you expected! They were "on" or "off"...no "feathering".

Sometimes hauled one of these behind an R611ST on a 3-axle Hyster fixed-neck lowboy. With attachments, about 111, 000 gross.

Ahhhhh....memories!

Some time back, somebody posted a question regarding the differrent models produced. While this page does not detail all the model numbers, it does LIST the model numbers.

I tried to post on that topic, but it must have been too old...

http://www.macktrucks.com/assets/mack/ModelProduction1.rtf

Good deal, Vinny.

We used to cut the pipe off when it rusted out at the top & put rain caps on. Once it rusted out below the caps, we would replace the pipe. Can't tell you how many flappers I saw stuck!

They are cool when done right, though.

Oh, and the "big" curve on the original B-model pipes are awesome.

What about the multi-curved ones on some dump trucks, that snake out from under the bed?

That's right, after additional variations are introduced, the plain number becomes a P1.

And often, engineering (responsible for the line sheets) would leave off the P1 even though there were more variations (because some blueprints were written this way), but in parts operations they always used the P1.

Something like a Cruise-Liner and MR rear cab latch (produced by Power Packer), 184QS39301A, had the "A" to denote an engineering improvement, but no P variation because there was only one version. And note the 5 digit Mack Western part number, which carried on to the MR because the part was originally designed for the Hayward-production first generation Cruise-Liner.

Anyway, buy the $38 14QK2100P1s and you'll be all set to go.

No, Mack doesn't make everything they use. But the specifications handed down to the vendors are typically different than the will-fit vendor branded items. Mack used to have a Monroe all-makes shock absorber program, and the shocks were NOT the same as what Monroe supplied under the Mack part number, which was supplied exactly to the blueprint specs.

Thanks.

And, by the way, the local Mack dealer shows the 14QK2100 in stock at a warehouse. He looked up the 14QK2100P1, and it was "superceded by" the 14QK2100. That would tend to support the "they are the same" theory, as an older number would typically not supercede a later number...unless they were the same part.

Sorry for not being more clear. The base part number without the P variation shown (14QK2100) is the same as the P1 variation (14QK2100P1). When Mack people saw 14QK2100 on a line sheet, we instinctively knew that's a 14QK2100P1.

So, if I understand you perfectly...

A 14QK2100 shock would have been the "original" version of that part. It would have no "P" on it. But, as soon as there was a different version, the new part would become a 14QK2100P2, and the "no P" part would become the 14QK2100P1. Is that the gist of it?

The reason I ask is that I can get a 14QK2100 for $68 apiece, and a 14QK2100P1 for $38 apiece. Pretty significant difference! So, as long as it truly is the same part... Ya' see?

On a side note, and in defense of some of the guys who have used non-Mack parts, I have had the Mack parts folks (on occasion) give me the vendor (TRW, Moog, etc...) part number for the Mack part. Remember, Mack doesn't make EVERYTHING they use. They make some. They have some made to spec. And, on occasion, they buy an already-existing part.

i have nothing relevant to post, but I must say, I LOVE your signature line.....

Ha-ha!!!! That's why I'm here: to entertain!

A letter suffix after the base part number, typically A, B or C, denotes an engineering improvement, but the parts are interchangeable.

For example, 14QK2100P1, 14QK2100AP1, 14QK2100BP1. These would all be interchangeable.

However, "P" variations are distinctly different parts. You can not interchange a 14QK2100P1 with a 14QK2100P3.

Why not contact a Volvo-Mack dealer and buy the correct part? The will-fit shock absorbers will NOT give you the same fit and performance as the "made for Mack" version.

The reason multiple Mack P variations sometimes all cross to one "will-fit" part number is because the will-fit parts are often a compromise solution. Do you want to install a compromise part on your truck?

You've got an older R-model with multi-leaf front springs, right? So you need a pair of 14QK2100P1 front shocks. Why don't you give Barry and the good folks at Watts Mack a call?

Information about revisions and such very much appreciated. Yet, you mention the "P1" part. The build sheet calls for "no P" (see original post).

I agree with your assessment of the "will fit" parts. They may fit, but the damping rates may not be thecsame as the originals!

Thanks again for the info.

That's what is on my truck, when I pulled the fifth wheel off one rear was bad so I decided to replace them all, I am pretty sure they are factory or close two it on my truck. (1980)

I presume you mean the Monroes? And how did you like them?

Thanks, guys. The Monroe 66878 is what I found, as well. And, the Gabriel seems to be an 83221. Anybody used either of those?

Need part number help! Front shocks listed on build sheet as 14QK2100. Found several variations on that (14QK2100P1, or P3, etc...). Trying to cross over to a correct Monroe or Gabriel number. Sometimes the P1 or whatever seems to matter...other times not.

Findit parts lists several Mack versions, including the plain 2100 number. Prices vary considerably.

Wonder if the P1 or P3 is a revision, or an actual different part. They don't necessarily cross over exactly the same, depending on whose chart you use.

Anybody have direct, personal knowledge about this?

You need to get a chrome pipe like mine had when I bought it. The big radius turn out version that was popular for R's back when.

I still have the pipe, it's hooked to a stock muffler and shield(which are new). Like to get a pair of them now for the duals I have on the truck presently. Just money I don't have to waste right now.

Mmmmm....curvy!

I heard it a bit different today. "Chrome won't get you home, but it might get you to HER place." Of course, they might have been talking about motorcycles...

Main considerations were cost & simplicity. The pipe was cheap & took 10 minutes to put on. Plus, back in the day, we never spent extra money on chrome...it didn't make us any more money!