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10 minutes ago, Geoff Weeks said:

Way too long.

There is a re-call out on the Bendix SR-5's mfg between Jan 2014 and March 2016.

No idea if it applies to your trailer, or if that is even the problem.

You have more work to do, but I strongly recommend a good shop that knows what they are doing and what to look for,

Where’s the SR-5 located at on the trailer? 

On an air tank most often, but don't go half assed running to replace it. I don't know if your trailer even has one, or that it is the problem. I needs proper diagnosing of what is the problem. 

 I just mentioned the SR-4 because I had one that the only symptom was the spring brakes didn't apply (until all the air in the trailer was lost).

In looking at spring brake valves, I came across the SR-5 re call.

1st picture is the ABS 

2nd picture might be it, but is not a SR-5 so not subject to recall.

You don't even know if the valve is at fault, could be crap in the lines. 

Looks like a "Sealco" spring brake valve:

https://sealcocvp.com/product/110800/

Again, I advise against replacing stuff "willy nilly" esp when we are talking about stuff as important as brakes.

Note: there are two version of this basic valve, one prioritizes the res the other the spring brakes, make sure you get the right one if you do replace it.

One will have a drilled hole on a web for ID purposes.

 

 

Edited by Geoff Weeks
52 minutes ago, Geoff Weeks said:

1st picture is the ABS 

2nd picture might be it, but is not a SR-5 so not subject to recall.

You don't even know if the valve is at fault, could be crap in the lines. 

Looks like a "Sealco" spring brake valve:

https://sealcocvp.com/product/110800/

Again, I advise against replacing stuff "willy nilly" esp when we are talking about stuff as important as brakes.

Note: there are two version of this basic valve, one prioritizes the res the other the spring brakes, make sure you get the right one if you do replace it.

One will have a drilled hole on a web for ID purposes.

 

 

Are there signs to look for that would indicate that spring brake valve to be going bad? How would I go about determining the lines have “crap” in them? 

Take the red and blue lines off the spring brake valve. Have someone in the cab press in the red button, you should get a large volume of air out the red line, basically a direct line to the red tractor line, so lots of air. red button will not lock in because it detects a large leak.

Re connect the red line and have him charge the trailer. No air should come out the blue line or the fitting on the spring brake valve it was attached too. have the assistant pull the Johnson bar, you should get lots of air out the blue line.

If it passes that test, re-connect the blue line (red should already be on) 

Pull out the red knob. remove any one of the black lines and its fitting from the spring brake valve. Install a 0-150 psi gauge in the port and have the assistant push in the red knob, you should see the pressure on the gauge rapidly rise to system pressure. Then have him pull the red knob out, the pressure should fall to 0 almost at once. 

Do not have your face under the spring brake valve when preforming these tests, you could get air and debris blasted into you.

Test results

poor low flow on the red = clogged line

Poor-low flow on the blue= clogged line

delivery port pressure checks

doesn't rise to system pressure or leaks constantly =failure of valve

Doesn't exhaust pressure immediately when red knob is pulled, but maintains pressure or pressure falls slowly = failed valve

  

 

image.thumb.jpg.1f9f061452484b69ffee66c62d7e4684.jpg

3 minutes ago, Geoff Weeks said:

Take the red and blue lines off the spring brake valve. Have someone in the cab press in the red button, you should get a large volume of air out the red line, basically a direct line to the red tractor line, so lots of air. red button will not lock in because it detects a large leak.

Re connect the red line and have him charge the trailer. No air should come out the blue line or the fitting on the spring brake valve it was attached too. have the assistant pull the Johnson bar, you should get lots of air out the blue line.

If it passes that test, re-connect the blue line (red should already be on) 

Pull out the red knob. remove any one of the black lines and its fitting from the spring brake valve. Install a 0-150 psi gauge in the port and have the assistant push in the red knob, you should see the pressure on the gauge rapidly rise to system pressure. Then have him pull the red knob out, the pressure should fall to 0 almost at once. 

Do not have your face under the spring brake valve when preforming these tests, you could get air and debris blasted into you.

Test results

poor low flow on the red = clogged line

Poor-low flow on the blue= clogged line

delivery port pressure checks

doesn't rise to system pressure or leaks constantly =failure of valve

Doesn't exhaust pressure immediately when red knob is pulled, but maintains pressure or pressure falls slowly = failed valve

  

 

image.thumb.jpg.1f9f061452484b69ffee66c62d7e4684.jpg

I will give this a test, thank you

44 minutes ago, Geoff Weeks said:

What did you see when you ran the test? With or without the hole in the web?

With the hole in the web & that it wasn’t rising to system pressure. the flow out of the red & blue lines were good. 

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