Joey Mack Posted May 18 Share Posted May 18 I think its .008''- .010'' end play. but FJH made it easier to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RS Disposal Posted May 18 Author Share Posted May 18 1 hour ago, fjh said: Yup back it out when installed turn it in till it touches and back it out half to one turn! Snug the jam nut and your done! Thanks, I eventually found the adjustment in the service manual. Guess I'm getting tired. Been up since 11 pm last nite Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjh Posted May 18 Share Posted May 18 8 minutes ago, RS Disposal said: Thanks, I eventually found the adjustment in the service manual. Guess I'm getting tired. Been up since 11 pm last nite Ya it ain’t rocket science it just needs a little space ! Same on the aux shaft!the E6 was a simple robust engine except for the lifters! I like it’s bolt on cam gear ! Wish they had kept that concept! I was kinda pissed when they changed to the press on set up! Knowing all the trouble they had with lifters why change?That said they were evolving the block toward or for the eteck at that time! 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RS Disposal Posted May 18 Author Share Posted May 18 Book says to heat vibration dampener for 13 minute in 250 degree oil. That I do not have access to. Is there something a little simple for me to do? And I agree about the camshaft gear. My son said he might of been able to get a small oven that they use at his work to heat bearings for the big pumps his company rebuilds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjh Posted May 18 Share Posted May 18 Torch and a heat gun ! I have put these on cold ! just sayin! 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RS Disposal Posted May 18 Author Share Posted May 18 Just now, fjh said: Torch and a heat gun ! I have put these on cold ! A heat gun I do have, Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mechohaulic Posted May 19 Share Posted May 19 13 min 250 oil ??? new tech . another first for this ole man , emery cloth -clean both mating surfaces . install dry ..challenge of the day was lining up the mounting holes. they are off set so damper goes on only one way for balancer timing marks, follow up on rear crank seal ==was it going to be changed or this is in frame?? 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post mechohaulic Posted May 19 Popular Post Share Posted May 19 4 hours ago, RS Disposal said: Sorry about all the questions, but should I mess with the end play adjustment on the timing cover. have yet to find in the service manual where this is addressed. Maybe I'm just blind LOL no reason to apologize "for all the questions" . knowledge isn't achieved with out questions. also best to ask then to screw up , resulting in lost $$$$ 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjh Posted May 19 Share Posted May 19 10 hours ago, mechohaulic said: 13 min 250 oil ??? new tech . another first for this ole man , emery cloth -clean both mating surfaces . install dry ..challenge of the day was lining up the mounting holes. they are off set so damper goes on only one way for balancer timing marks, follow up on rear crank seal ==was it going to be changed or this is in frame?? extra long 7/16 bolt can solve that issue! 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mechohaulic Posted May 19 Share Posted May 19 1 hour ago, fjh said: extra long 7/16 bolt can solve that issue! they were small part of assorted bolts in toolbox inventory. fortunately for me the assortments of bolts and misc are going to a very well deserved new location for future use. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RS Disposal Posted May 19 Author Share Posted May 19 12 hours ago, mechohaulic said: 13 min 250 oil ??? new tech . another first for this ole man , emery cloth -clean both mating surfaces . install dry ..challenge of the day was lining up the mounting holes. they are off set so damper goes on only one way for balancer timing marks, follow up on rear crank seal ==was it going to be changed or this is in frame?? this repair is in frame I was able to get dampener on by using emery cloth to make sure everything was clean and a heat gun. Was able to get it on far enough with some light tapping with a brass hammer far enough for the bolt to engage the threads and pull it on the rest of the way 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RS Disposal Posted May 19 Author Share Posted May 19 12 hours ago, mechohaulic said: no reason to apologize "for all the questions" . knowledge isn't achieved with out questions. also best to ask then to screw up , resulting in lost $$$$ This forum for me has been a godsend. Everybody has been so helpful in my quest and with my learning curve since my breakdown last fall that started my journey. I know there must be some older mechanics in my area who would know this stuff, but when I was first making inquiries into having a shop do the repair the attitude I got was that nobody really wanted to work on a 40 yr old truck. Probably because it wasn't sitting in their shop taking up space and knowing that sourcing some parts might be time consuming 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mechohaulic Posted May 19 Share Posted May 19 or they were afraid to say ; they don't know how to work on a real truck not having a computer in it to say what is wrong. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mechohaulic Posted May 19 Share Posted May 19 17 minutes ago, RS Disposal said: this repair is in frame I was able to get dampener on by using emery cloth to make sure everything was clean and a heat gun. Was able to get it on far enough with some light tapping with a brass hammer far enough for the bolt to engage the threads and pull it on the rest of the way hopefully the brass hammer tapping was being done in the center by bolt hole NOT outer edge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RS Disposal Posted May 19 Author Share Posted May 19 Just now, mechohaulic said: hopefully the brass hammer tapping was being done in the center by bolt hole NOT outer edge it was definitely in the center of the dampener. put an impact socket into the center of the dampener where the bolt goes so the force was directly in the center. With the heating of the dampener with the heat gun before it didn't take much to get the dampener on far enough to engage the bolt 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mechohaulic Posted May 19 Share Posted May 19 in frame would explain no rear crank seal /ring . save the lead seal ; might need it down the road or change over to newer rear housing using lip seal and wear ring. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mechohaulic Posted May 19 Share Posted May 19 11 minutes ago, mechohaulic said: in frame would explain no rear crank seal /ring . save the lead seal ; might need it down the road or change over to newer rear housing using lip seal and wear ring. should the day come for rear seal replacing and you go with updated seal/ring DON'T throw away old style housing. hang it in a man cave or something with the lead seal ..it will be a museum piece . instead of saying I had one of those = you can say I GOT one of those. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted May 19 Share Posted May 19 R.S,,, I can say that this group of guys is always ready to help. As far as the old parts, I would keep them, even if they are obsolite. You may be able to help someone out because you have the part. As far as old tools... I have a bunch of old tools.. Some were my Grandfathers tools, and some ( that I still use) were tools that my Mentor gave me or showed me how to make and use, and recently aquired some tools from a friend, that are still in boxes, and I know where they are when I need them. My pride for what I have learned about Mack trucks, and other trucks, as well as the people who helped me, are the reasons why I will never get rid of them, until my days are numbered and I can pass them on.. I always believed that what we do as truckers and truck mechanics is a brotherhood. We need each other.. best of luck with the Old Girl, she'll be up and running soon. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post RS Disposal Posted May 19 Author Popular Post Share Posted May 19 4 hours ago, Joey Mack said: R.S,,, I can say that this group of guys is always ready to help. As far as the old parts, I would keep them, even if they are obsolite. You may be able to help someone out because you have the part. As far as old tools... I have a bunch of old tools.. Some were my Grandfathers tools, and some ( that I still use) were tools that my Mentor gave me or showed me how to make and use, and recently aquired some tools from a friend, that are still in boxes, and I know where they are when I need them. My pride for what I have learned about Mack trucks, and other trucks, as well as the people who helped me, are the reasons why I will never get rid of them, until my days are numbered and I can pass them on.. I always believed that what we do as truckers and truck mechanics is a brotherhood. We need each other.. best of luck with the Old Girl, she'll be up and running soon. I am definitely keeping all my old parts. It's kinda a thing with me that the wife doesn't understand. And I definitely agree that it is a brotherhood. I drove truck western states for 15 years before I took over full time my dad's garbage trk business and his trucks. Started helping him 63 yrs ago and as much as I could when I was OTR. Took over full time when he got off the trk at 83 yrs old and been doing it now for 30 yrs. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mechohaulic Posted May 20 Share Posted May 20 4 hours ago, RS Disposal said: I am definitely keeping all my old parts. It's kinda a thing with me that the wife doesn't understand. And I definitely agree that it is a brotherhood. I drove truck western states for 15 years before I took over full time my dad's garbage trk business and his trucks. Started helping him 63 yrs ago and as much as I could when I was OTR. Took over full time when he got off the trk at 83 yrs old and been doing it now for 30 yrs. how fortunate YOU are , and it's NOT a garbage trk business!!! it's a sanitation collection company. new generation lives in a world of clarity. I'm trying to "keep my old parts also" but hel-- they are worn . can't walk to straight anymore!! think toe in is off == or knees ;;; LOL 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted May 20 Share Posted May 20 Hey Mech,,,, Our small city is always looking for good 'Refuse Tranport Specialists'',,, just sayin' 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RS Disposal Posted May 20 Author Share Posted May 20 Sanitation engineer 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RS Disposal Posted May 25 Author Share Posted May 25 Valve lash question. This engine has the dynatard so it has the hydraulic exhaust valve lash adjuster. Book say you need a special tool to adjust this. When I adjusted the lash back when the head was rebuilt, I just made sure I was pressing down on the adjuster as I was taking my measurement. Is there a different/better way I should be doing this or just making sure the adjuster has downward pressure on it while taking the measurement work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjh Posted May 25 Share Posted May 25 6 hours ago, RS Disposal said: Valve lash question. This engine has the dynatard so it has the hydraulic exhaust valve lash adjuster. Book say you need a special tool to adjust this. When I adjusted the lash back when the head was rebuilt, I just made sure I was pressing down on the adjuster as I was taking my measurement. Is there a different/better way I should be doing this or just making sure the adjuster has downward pressure on it while taking the measurement work? Your doing it right! just make sure when you pull the feeler out after the jam nut is tight the feeler is snug but moves freely with very little resistance ! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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