dkv411 Posted October 28, 2011 Share Posted October 28, 2011 upon removing my clutch in my 99 ch e7 460 18 speed after approxamatly one year. the clutch plate against the flywheel has busted around some of the springs. this is a spicer 1860 f tourqe clutch a pull reefer and flatbed with this truck and drive it like the million mile truck that it is. the vendor i purchased the clutch from is telling me it is caused be vibrational tourqe the shop doing the job is saying bullshit as well as the mack dealer i do business with. has anyone got any ideas? not only will they not cover the clutch after telling me they warrenty for a year and will turn a blind eye to a couple days but i need to find out if there is something else wrong with this truck. HELP PLEASE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhasler Posted October 29, 2011 Share Posted October 29, 2011 Eaton clutch failure analysis.http://www.roadranger.com/ecm/idcplg?IdcService=GET_FILE&dID=293498 Quote "Mebbe I'm too ugly and stupid to give up!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gearbox Posted October 29, 2011 Share Posted October 29, 2011 A lot of reasons could of busted the spring plate but most common would misalignment in the bellhousing or a spigot bearing related problem with input shaft possibly worn if you post some pictures might be able to help more, what colour is the dust that has collected around the spring plate. Was the flywheel machined correctly as it is something that gets overlooked have the rivetts pulled at all. I have also seen some that have been driver abuse which is always difficult to get a driver to accept as this is a problem in Australia with multiple combination trailer set ups when the driver is not careful from a stopped start. There was a local training organisation teaching to leave the line at 1200-1500 rpm have seen left front wheel 1 foot in the air followed by clutch plate failure, hope the first suggestion may help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted October 30, 2011 Share Posted October 30, 2011 Vibration could be an issue, when was the crank damper last replaced? Also gerarbox is right the flywheel MUST be machined and also while you have it out, balance the driveshaft.DO NOT allow your parts man or repair shop talk you into a higher torque clutch. The torque rating must match the engine output or the damper springs will not work as intended, more like a solid disc. Too much clutch is just as bad as not enough, and it will again fail prematurely.One minor detail I practice is to always depress the clutch during engine shutdown. I can't prove it, but I believe it saves wear & tear on the entire driveline. Next time you shut off the key, listen and feel all the gears and clutch banging back & forth. Then do it while holding the clutch. Listen and feel how smooth the engine comes to rest when the driveline is disconnected.Gregg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dkv411 Posted October 31, 2011 Author Share Posted October 31, 2011 thanks all interesting information. What im finding from talking to a clutch guru from the vendor i used competitor is that my truck is in what they call the 50% of the macks that have to have a specific clutch built soely for and distributed by mack. havent been able to get on here to check these till today because i had to drive 7 hours one way to pick up the proper clutch in the 6 padel that i wanted i could have gotten a 4 padel today about 3 hours away for $300 more but i still saved money if you set my time aside. pics will follow soon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dkv411 Posted October 31, 2011 Author Share Posted October 31, 2011 hope i did this right but here are the pics of the old clutch that was a year old and then two pics of the new clutch from a Mack dealer that they say is only one of 3 clutches that can go in this truck the other is a 4 padel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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