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Vibration That Wont Go Away!


maxidyne237

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so heres my problem. in my dm 800 since i brought it home it had a vibration from 40 mph plus. The truck had some questionable tires on it when we bough the truck and it felt like it had a bad tire. (wouldn't go away when clutch was depressed and couldnt feel vibration in the shifters) so i ruled out drive line originally. well itwasnt tires and we narrowed it down to driveshaft after pulling rear shaft and puttinh the truck in 5th high and standing still with driveshaft spinning and speedo at 40mph....Vibration. well pulled shaft, new yokes on our tube both ends and slip yoke and balance. New trans rear yoke(flange style yoke), trans output flange and front of front rear yoke, as well as rear roller bearing on back output shaft(behind grease seal) so no movement in any of the yokes. put everything together and the vibration is still there about half as bad. so heres where im at now...i figured ti might be a worn power divider with too much slop between the peanuts and the barrel giving me part of the vibration also letting the front half of the through shaft wobble around. so what do you think? anyone have something like this happen before? I cant seewhat else it could be?

i pulled the pinion and power divider assy out today and im going to dig in tomm. thanks

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I had the same problem in my MACK coal bucket and my peanuts was wore and some chipped that got rid of the vibration that I had been tracking for a while. Done the same thing you done checking u joints,bearings,and tires. Got down to the last resort which we all know that we all DRED, pulling the rearends,thank goodness it was the peanuts and I did not have to pull the whole chunk! :thumb:

KEEP THE BLACK SMOKE ROLLIN

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I'm interested in the details of the cost and difficulty of the job as well. My '70 model DM685S has a vibration over 40 mph ever since we bought it. Appreciate any details you can give me, as we already redid the front driveshaft. Thanks, Chuck

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there are four main parts to the power divider. the outer drum $350, which is attached to the pinion, the inner star shaped cam $150 thats attached to the trough shaft, the peanuts $150, and the cage $600 that holds them that is attached to the input shaft(your yokes attached to it) there are two sections to the housing that goes into the rear center section. remove driveshaft unbolt the first section that is attached with 6 3/8 bolts ( drain the oil in this sectio first) then remove the pinion section remove the bolts and use jack screws to remove from housing. there are shims between this and the center section that adjust pinion depth so dont loose them or pry between them. now you can take your 3" socket and clamp pinion and remove 3" nut and press drum off pinion press bearing on new drum and press back together and tighten nut to 800 to 1200 ft lbs. now you should be able to spin pinion in housing by hand there should be resistance on the bearings as they need to be pre loaded but not so much as you cant turn by hand. if its too loose or to tigh then you need to use a different spacer between the bearings to get the proper preload. now look at yor cage and if the holes where the peanuts ride arent worn out just install new peanuts and reuse your cage and save your self 600 bucks. do not re use old ones or ones from a different set. now reasemble the reverse of removal remembering to re install your shims and the new inner cam. i hope that helps

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