DWaits

hi, the mack im looking to buy has a "slight" electrical problem, im not really sure what it is though. Its a 1966 B model mack. What happens is whenever a new set of batteries is thrown on the truck, they die within an day. Its been sitting due to this problem and will be up for sale around november, and its my only real chance of getting a truck. Anyone know what kind of problem is causing this? and how much it could be to fix. Thanks alot!

Do they run down with the truck just sitting and not running or do they run down with the truck running?

DW

I stopped by the homestead in Mount Cobb, PA. This is the farm where the brothers were born & raised. I have admired it for years and finally took the time to stop and take some pictures. I have included one here and added several to my gallery. I hope you enjoy! Doug

Nice pics, I did notice in the first picture of the sign it states "working windmill" in the last pic it shows the wind mill. That is NOT a working windmill! LOL.......

DW

Has anybody here removed the main pully from this engine or one like it?

I started to remove the pully last night so I could get at the timing gears, I got the pully most of the way off and it looked like the shaft was coming out with the pully. It looks like if that was meant to happen the front of the engine would need to be supported in order to remove the pully, am I right or is something wrong?

Thanks,

DW

Mack Firetruck Fans-

I am a volunteer FireFighter from Radnor Fire Company we have a 1954 Mack B75F Pumper (see attached picture). We are having our 100th anniversary Parade, May 6th in Wayne Pa. (Near Valley Forge-and King Of Prussia about 25 miles west of Phila). We are having awards for best appearing Mack Fire Truck and best appearing B Model Mack Firetruck as well as lots of food and refreshments! Harvey Eckart will be attending and judging the antiques. If you can make it we would love to have a great showing of all Macks!

PS We also have E1 and Seagraves so if you have modern firetrucks trucks we would love to have them also!

Email with any questions and I can provide more details and the invitation and award categories

Firemack

Sure wish I was closer to PA or I would be there.

Nice looking B75! is it restored or original?

DW

Mike- I have towed a 38' 5th wheel RV with my B67 Mack successfully all over the country. In fact, were it not for the RV, the Mack wouldn't have a thing to do in life. Roaring into a camp ground at night in a semi really gets their attention too-

Pin absolutely same thing.

Dial up www.stovebolt.com, select features, select saga, select "Hauling with the Big Dogs" and reall all about it. In fact, read "Hi You Silver Rides Again" and read about the resto of this Mack. Good luck

Hauling with the Big Dogs

Hi Yo Silver Rides Again

About all I can say about your truck is WOW!!! What a piece of work..

DW

DW, what series machine do you have? Is it and old gas or diesel? My friend owns a dealership here and sells bobcat and tool cats and I could possibly get a copy of something you need,Tim

Timothy,

It is a T200 diesel,

It has low hours but has been run into the dirt!

I could use a service manual, I would not mind paying for one.

I could also use any advice I can can get on working on the engine, all of my diesel experiance comes from having two Massey Furgusions and one Powerstroke 7.3 engines, none of which I have had to work on other than mantainence.

The Bobcat smokes like nothing I have ever seen! I think it needs a new head gasket and turbo. It also blows oil out of the exhaust.

Do you know if Bobcat has a PDF file for sevice manuals?

Thanks!!!!

DW

I got a new toy (new to me) Friday, a Bobcat loader. Does anyone have any experiance working on the engine in these? I am also looking for links and websites for tech help since the dealers are WAY to expensive for me not to mention the closest one is almost two hours away.

DW

Hi all I am about ready to install my 237 in my b-85F . I was hoping someone here could tell me how much oil? What is the Oil Filter number? What it the coolant filter number? Also the Fuel filter too? Thanks Jaime java script:emoticon('', 'smid_6')

I would just about bet the farm that John Evans (truxnut on this forum) could answer most of your questions if not all. He is a retired parts guy and he has answered similar questions for me, if he does not answer here you can ask him on the ATHS forum at aths.org he reads that forum everyday.

DW

Thanks for the info George (and everyone else too!). See the thing is I want a compact and 100% portable hookup. It has to mount to any tractor and every tractor has a 5th wheel. Some type of rear plate for a hitch seems too permanent and requires me to adapt it at the point of pickup. This thing if built right it would work with no problem.

I have seen something close to whay you want only it was for towing another tractor, it hooks up to the 5th wheel on the towing tractor. The end that hooks up to the tractor being towed has a truck bar kinda like what the big truck wreackers have. Athough it would work for what you want you could not lift it unless you had a fork lift! IMHO I would think you could make one or have one made, I would be sure it had some sort of safety

chains just in case.

DW

That is very close to what my buddy uses to pull his escort with, he has been using it for the last 12 years with no problems. I like the idea of using a top link from a tractor!

DW

I have a buddy that pulls an oversize load from time to time and he has to have an lead car in front of him.

He uses a ford escort and tows a dolly behind it, on his tractor he has a dropped reciver hitch that he pulls the dolly with and puts the escort on the dolly and who ever is driving the escort rides back with him.

DW

Thanks for the replys,

It is way to cold here to get anything done for the next few days but, they say it will be in the 60's by the weekend.

I am going to put the marvel oil in the cylinders after work today, let it sit for a few days and then when it is warmer start looking for the problem. The engine has OHV's so they will be easy to check, I am thinking that it

it may be the starter, also easy to check.

DW

Well I got everything hooked up on the ENF510A and tried to get it started yesterday, I turned it over twice using the hand crank then hooked up the batterys. It turned over maybe twice and then it stuck!

I will try today to get out (30 degrees and 30MPH wind with light snow in GA) and pull the plugs to fill the cylinders with Marvel, other than that what else can I do?

Would the cold temps have anything to do with it?

I have not tried to turn it backwards, should I wait till I fill the cylinders?

Any tips on getting the Marvel into the cylinders?

Thanks,

DW

Is this a 'Full Flow' filter? Or a slipstream/luberfiner?

I do not know! I am pretty sure it is not a luberfiner.

Attached is picture of the filter housing, the number on the casting is a Mack number, it is 485GB3100.

If I had to guess I would say it is full flow, I took the old filter to NAPA and they said it is not something they stock but they could have it by Wed.

I think I will be better off waiting, I would rather do it right the first time.

The motor has not been started for about 8 years.

DW

Today is the day!

I am going try to get the ENF510A started today, I have changed the oil but NAPA cant get me a new filter for it untill Wed. Will it be okay to start it with the old filter in it or should I wait? If it runs It will not be taken out on the road just yet, I just want to get it running and do a little tuning.

Thanks

DW

Hey guys I need a little help. Most of the Macks that I have seen have been restored and had most problems fixed or hidden. I need some tips and wisdom from you guys that have shoes older than me and/or have been around these trucks all your life. What are some of the problem spots like the back of the cab for rust, broke springs, ways to tell if the front end is beat out from under them, etc? Also, what are some of the big ticket items as far as parts go that you find most unrestored trucks need? I'm just trying to get a feel for what’s what so I don’t get taken across some day.

My truck is an E series, aside from takeing a little over a year to find a water pump the wiring was the worst problem so far. ALL! the wires had been cut and spliced, some of the connections were just bare wire twisted togather, and I even found a few splices that were made with masking tape. Also who ever did the wiring had used 110V lamp cord in places!

Rust is my next problem, I live in GA and down here EVERYTHING rust or rots if left unprotected.

One other thing, check the manifolds really well, if it has even the smallest hairline crack chances are that if you ever have to remove it it will crack.

There are others here that know much more than me about the old Macks, the information I gave you is what I have learned by working on my first Mack.

I wanted to get into restoring tractors, (thats what everybody else around me has) I found my Mack by accident and it was given to me if I hauled it off. I have been a Mack fan ever since and now to me there are no other trucks. LOL!

I really like the looks of the E's but, my next Mack will be a B, there is a ton of reproduction stuff and used parts are still very easy to find.

DW

Hi david

Never even herd of vector format, LOL????

I used photo shop a few years ago on my old PC and dont remember seeing that style format??

Vector files are line drawings, if you look at the file you posted in wireframe mode it shows up as pixels,

if you view a vector file in wireframe it will show up as lines.

I need a vector file because I will be using a plotter to cut the vinyl which I will then use to make a screen

so I can print directly onto tho old face. Graphics programs like Adobe Illastraiter and Corel Draw are used to make vector files. I hope this explains it.

I subscribe to a corparate logo vending service but, they only have the latest logos on file.

I can use what you gave me and, since the logo on the face is so small I will not have to edit it as much.

Evidently I have too much time on my hands, I would not even attempt this for a customer beacuse I would not make any money due to the time involved, But nothing is to much for my old Mack!

Thanks again for the file

David

is this the logo you are looking for?

Yes that is the one I need, would you happen to have it in vector format?

I can use GIF files but they require lots of work in order for me to use them.

Thanks!

David

Here is a scan of what I have done so far with the new face for my E series speedo.

The area left out in the scan is what was rusted over on the original face so, I am saving the hard part for last.

I need another logo, this is the only one I had in my stock logos, I need a good copy of the old style logo with the tail under the Mack. Anybody got a good B/W one?

I would like some feedback if anybody has any!

Keep in mind this is just a scan, the quality on the real thing is much better, I am doing it at 1800 dpi.

David

Start with 13 qts in the pan and after running it a bit recheck to see how much the filter needed and top it off. Fire Service engine should not make any difference.

Thanks John,

I think you answered this for me before on the ATHS board but I could not find it in the archives.

DW

I am finaly ready to get the engine started, first I need to change the oil.

Can anybody tell me how much it needs?

Will the ENF510A use more than EN510?

Thanks!

DW

I added a new album to My Gallery, It is photos of my MF tractors.

Also I added a new picture to my truck album, it is of the engine in my S75 pumper, I am slowly getting the parts painted and back on the engine.

DW

I've had several old speedos apart for restoration. The tough part is getting the bezel off. They are usually crimped on to the housing. To get them off you have to take a small screwdriver or similar tool and from the back side where the bezel meets the housing, gently roll the crimp back enough to get the bezel off but not so much that you bend the front side.

Once you get the bezel off the needle is a press fit on the shaft. If its not frozen it should come off by gently turning the needle counterclockwise. It should come off the shaft without too much trouble. Then the face comes off with the two screws you can see from the front.

There are people who specialize in rescreening the face of the gauge. Look in Hemmings or other such publications. I have also had them made at a local sign shop but the detail wasn't as fine as the screened method. Just depends on how much you want to spend and how good you want it to look when finished. Hope this helps, Brad

Thanks Brad,

I used three different size screwdrivers, started with the smallest and went all the way around, moved to the next size and did it again till I used all three sizes. It came off pretty easy but you do need to take your time.

I will take the face to work with me tommorow, since I have a printing and sign shop I can redo a new face myself. I plan on scanning the old one and use it as a template for a new one printed on vinyl. I will post a few pics of it when I am done.

I read a short artical in my SPAAMFAA newsletter about making a new face for speedometers, does anybody know how to remove the lens from a E series speedometer?

It looks like the face is held on with two screws, has anyone ever removed or replaced the indicater needle?

Thanks!

DW

with a cracked engine block could you just weld it for a temporary use until you get another engine?

How bad/big is the crack?

Where is it on the engine?

Can you post a picture or two?

If it is just a hairline and on the water jacket side you MIGHT be able to get by with some JB weld.

If it is small and easy to get to you MIGHT be able to find a welding shop that has someone who can weld castiron.

And the last way and the hardest is to find a foundry who can heat the whole casting, weld it and the let it cool for a few days. This is REALLY the only way to do it but it cost the most and takes the most time and that is if you can evan find a shop that can do it.

The lock and stich method is the best way with out welding, but it is very time consuming and hard to do without being on a drill press, and thats after you pull the motor and find a press big enough to hold it.

If you go with JB weld you need to spend a lot of time prepairing the crack, grinding it out with a die grinder, then you want to drill out each end of the crack to keep it from growing. clean up the area and make sure you have no grease, rust, paint or scale in the area. Follow the instructions on the JB weld.

Also try to Google "repairing castiron" the information you get from there can help you decide which way to go.

DW