39 Baby Mack

One of the top kingpin caps was missing on my 87 superliner went to mack and was told mack changed the style of the caps, the one they gave me looks like a freeze plug(just a disk with a slight curve). I put in on and when I grease the kingpin the it pushes out the cap. I found the original type and was wondering if there is a certin way to install it. I will take some pics later and post them.

The heavy welch plug you spoke of (like a frost plug) was actually the original style. They could only be installed properly with the steering knuckle off the axle. They had to be installed with a special tool which consisted of a driver and an anvil.

You would put the welch plug into the bore with the concave down, rest the knuckle upside down on the anvil and drive the plug down with the driver. It would set the plug in the bore about an 1/8" down from the top. On top of all this you couldn't buy the tool you had to have it made!

This was a bad design, in my opinion, and were always a problem with them coming lose.

The later ones looked like an inverted top hat with ridges on the part that goes down in the pin bushing bore. They were made to be driven in from the top.

They also have a screw in plug that goes into the cap. The plug was to be removed so you could install a pusher bolt in the hole to remove the plug when it was time to service the pins.

These were better but as was already said tack weld them in.

Ron

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Weren't the ones the Post Office had actually MCs?

Lighter frames than the MRs had.

MCs weren't made very long, they were made as both tractors and platform chassis.

Once the Post Office quit ordering them pretty much the end for the MCs.

Ron

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Very sorry for your loss Matt

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On 10/13/2016 at 9:47 PM, 1941 ED said:

The body is a Stock Express Delivery Bed,   the model of the truck is ( ED ) or Express Delivery.  Total production of the Model ED line from 1938-1944 was only 2686.  So it is a rare bird in one sense, Diamond T and I believe REO had similar Express Delivery Beds, Rated from 1 TON to 1 1/2 TONS for a pickup. 

My truck has a pretty cool story and I am lucky to have it, in this condition not a lot of enthusiasts would want to tackle it , but it is up my alley. trying to source out engine builders and parts etc. so if anyone wants to DM me please do, I am jumping HEAD FIRST this weekend to start on my "1941 MACK PRESERVATION MISSION".  I do have a small site up to log my progress and I will update here as well. Thanks again

 

What is the best place to post pictures of my Restoration process ??

Never ever heard of the ED referred to as Express Delivery?

It was the smallest truck in the E series that was brought out in 1936.

The EB and EC were traffic type units that came out in '36 along with the larger E model conventional trucks.

The first conventional trucks were EH, EJ, EM, EQ, and two chain drive models the ER and ES.

In 1938, after the joint venture between REO and Mack to produce the Mack Jrs was over, the smaller E models came out those being the ED, EE, EF, and EG.

A further edition to the E series line up came in 1939.

This last truck had a little heavier rating than an ED and not as heavy a rating as an EE.

I never heard this for sure. But it makes sense why it ended with the moniker of DE? They were out of letters!

Ron

when I worked at the local apple warehouse we had a 79 f 800 single screw tractor would hold air for over 10 months, always was amazed when I would turn the key on and the low air buzzer would not come on, would look over at the pri.sec. needles and both were still above 110! 

Unbelievable [emoji54]

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There's basically two different heads for a 673.

18 stud or 20 stud.

18 stud heads have a single corner stud on the drivers side.

20 stud heads have double corner studs on the drivers side.

All 5/8" studs.

One other thing to watch out for, there were two different 18 stud heads.

One had all 9/16" studs, the later ones had sixteen 9/16" studs with two 3/4" corner studs in the corners on the drivers side.

I hope this helps, you should be able identify them without having to remove the valve covers.

Ron

Welcome aboard!

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I had forgot about line going to the governor.I have a freind that still has one.

Glenn,

Do you remember the first reversing relay, the one that was remotely mounted towards the front of the motor.

If memory serves me it was mounted off the thermostat housing. It was made by Fairchild.

How many complaints about an air leak did you hear about when somebody would shut one off in gear without setting the spring brakes?

Couldn't take your time adjusting the brakes with the truck shut off and in gear or the bleed on the reversing relay would pop the brakes back on!

Ron

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Thanks for all the well wishes guys. I really do appreciate it!

I get this way from time to time,

I'll be fine!

Ron

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hey 39 baby mack could you tell this new guy why the difference with spring brake on/off?

The first emission system I saw was a steel line that went from the turbo down to the governor. It wouldn't allow the rack in the pump to open fully until there was sufficient boost to burn the fuel.(eliminating the initial heavy black smoke that the early Maxidynes were known for after an upshift in low RPMs)

This was fine except for trying to start one of these Maxidyne engines in cold weather. To get these started you needed to hold the accelerator to the floor to have the rack open fully. You couldn't get the rack to open fully with that set up.

With the reversing relay the puff limiter didn't work until the spring brakes were released and the truck was ready to go down the road. This allowed for a full rack in the pump to get the engine started when it was cold but set the puff limiter in operation once the truck was put in operation

Ron

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Is there any way to tell if it is working while it is on the truck?  I suppose it could have some oil  or dirt in it and resticts movement.   

How much are they maybe I will buy one and replace it andvsee v what happens.

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A quick check to see if it's working.

Nail the accelerator with the spring brakes applied, exhaust should look like a house afire.

Release the brakes and try it again you should see a very noticeable difference!!!

Ron

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A quick check to see if it's working.

Nail the accelerator with the spring brakes applied, exhaust should look like a house afire.

Release the brakes and try it again you should see a very noticeable difference!!!

Ron

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There was a service bulletin that explained how to test the reversing relay valves.

It involved using two gauges and an air regulator.

I probably have one but I'm sure somebody else on here could probably lay hands to theirs a lot easier than I could!

Ron

Sounds like it's time to roll coal!

Ron

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Isn't there also a difference in the camshaft between the two engines?

Ron

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Looks like an original Mack pick-up body to me.

Ron

Looks good Mike,

best of luck with it!

Ron

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Glenn, wasn't there a special rear seal housing made to take the later seal. The housing I'm talking about would clear the oil slinger and not require the slinger to be machined off the crank.?

Ron

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Welcome aboard! and good luck with the ED.

just for curiosity sake what's the chassis#?

Ron

On 9/19/2016 at 8:59 AM, fifth wheel said:

pre war E's and L's used them. then the E's, L's, W's and H's used the CB lights.

 

FW

Mine had the early style headlights on it when I first started working on it.

Changed it over to the Corcoran Brown headlights. Always liked them with the parking lights!

Ron

Happy Anniversary!

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Do you have the special washers that go into the 3/4" corner stud holes for the 9/16" studs?

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The first thing I'd check would be the toe-in.

That would cause a high speed wander.

Ron

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[emoji3]

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