oldmacktrucks

Gotta love the green glitter Roadway toggle switch extentions, I lucked out and bought a shi*load of NOS Roadway glitter shifter knobs...really gives a truck the old school look. I like that Brown west coast steering wheel, they are getting hard to come by!

Think I'm a gonna dump a little down the old detroit and see how she reacts...Lucas or no Lucas this up coming 2800 mile "venture" to Nevada in a 54 mile an hour ten wheeler with a set of 58's in the back...I might need a gallon along with my biscuits and gravy breakfast just to help my insides!!!

I will prolly get shot at by somebody else here, but I use it in everything I run, dozer, truck, excavator, blade, and even use it in my pickup. In my pickup, I use the Lucas synthetic additive since pickup runs syntec oil. I use it in rear ends, trans, everthang and all. I LIKE IT!! Seen both pros and cons, like you,,,but,,,I LIKE IT!! I LOVE IT, I WANT SOME MORE OF IT!!! randyp

Any change in oil PSI? I would assume your runnin it the B model....If its runnin in yours should be ok in mine lol!

A rebuild kit for the transfer, (or lift) pump mounted to the side of the injection pump is a great idea to "freshen up". Think the last one I did was about $30.00 for parts through PDI. These are the same quality as you would get through Mack but much less expensive. Never a good idea to have seepage in the fuel lines as it always leads to faults. Liquid fuel cannot be compressed where air can and this is why it takes a while to start if the fuel is draining back even if not completly dry. You must displace the air with fuel before the injectors start to crack, or pop open.

There is a check valve in the transfer pump and it can gum, or the spring can break/fatigue. Both will cause drainback.

Rob

Lift / Transfer is the right term...and was on the tip of my tounge. Supply pump was close though I paid around $200.00 for mine plus core charge

I gotta'go with Rob on this one (sorry Randy!) i have never heard anything negative about lucas products,and dont believe they will "hurt" the engine,just not a believer in oil additives myself. I have never run any type additives,so i may not be the most qualified to answer,but i get an oil sample every change,or if i notice anything unusual,and have never had a problem running straight oil in the engine,i DO however run synthetics in the trans.and rears,and like the added benefit of cooler temps in both. The only real additive type product i use is Marvel mystery oil (in my high mileage personal vehicle).............Mark

Same here...MMM is all I have ever used in anything with a noisy valve train, dry knock etc etc...but thats coming from my old man, we are "old school" when it comes to these newer products. Kinda like motor honey I mean who in the hell would put that stuff in an engine, it takes 35 minutes for it just to pour out of the bottle its so thick!

Sorta like when "Momma" Double Reverse Bitch Slaps Me? Cause after that, an eight penny nail driven under a toenail with an air gun would feel good.

Rob

Damn, that made my big toe hurt jus thinkin' bout that

Is kinda like taking vitamins, not sure they help me, but feel better taking them,,,randyp

The screamy meany from Detroit City is one thing, but my old 2 valve...she maybe no like it lol!

Is kinda like taking vitamins, not sure they help me, but feel better taking them,,,randyp

I will prolly get shot at by somebody else here, but I use it in everything I run, dozer, truck, excavator, blade, and even use it in my pickup. In my pickup, I use the Lucas synthetic additive since pickup runs syntec oil. I use it in rear ends, trans, everthang and all. I LIKE IT!! Seen both pros and cons, like you,,,but,,,I LIKE IT!! I LOVE IT, I WANT SOME MORE OF IT!!! randyp

LOL, its a tough one...I mean I dont think it could hurt...my trucks run good, they have minor blow by but great oil pressure and pleanty of balls. The Detroit 60 series in my White GMC is due for a service, maybe I'll slip some in and see how she reacts. The Mack is getting ready for a 2800 mile trek x country so I was thinking of adding some to her as well...I dunno

From the sound of it, its NOT the injector pump, but to go thru the pump (if you wanted it done) around $1000.00 to $1500.00 I just had one done. A new supply pump should only be a couple of hundred. If the truck runs good, but is losing prime after sitting I would put my money on the supply pump. There is a check valve on the return line that sometimes goes bad, but I would start with the pump. I pulled my hair out for 2 weeks trying to fiqure mine out, everyone told me its the lines, its this its that...I went with my gut instinct, replaced the supply pump and bingo she fired right up and never lost prime again.

Hmmmmmmm....I would have to say more than likely sounds like a bad supply pump, I had the same problem on a 94 RD tractor I had. I would start with the basics, check the fuel lines, replace the filters. But more than likely I would put money on it being the pump

Hmmmmmmm....I would have to say more than likely sounds like a bad supply pump, I had the same problem on a 94 RD tractor I had. I would start with the basics, check the fuel lines, replace the filters. But more than likely I would put money on it being the pump

Anyone running Lucas additive in there old 2 valves? I was at the parts place and they were trying to get me to buy a gallon of Lucas, I've know these guys for years and I dont think they would steer me wrong, but I was always told never to use any additive other than oil and thats coming from a veteran class A grease monkey (my old man) LOL! Any takes on this? I hear some pro's and cons on the stuff.....

When my grandfather passed in 2004, I carried his casket to the cemetary on the back of my flatbed Ford, the funeral director looked at me like I was crazy when I told him that this is what we wanted to do, I really didnt care what anyone thought to be honest. The man was involved in transportation industry for almost 40 years, and was the shop steward in the vehicle maintenance shop for Pan Am Airways for nearly 15 years prior to retirement. I followed his footsteps and became a Teamster. I remember I wore his Pan Am jacket as I drove that truck...it was a sad day, but I know as he looked down he would have been smiling ear to ear knowing that him and I were taking our last ride together. It really meant alot to me to be able to do that for him. When my time comes my wish would be to have an old Mack carry me to my final resting place...I never really was the Cadillac kind

Just wanted to say thanks to everyone who gave me advice with the frozen injectors, the truck is up and running and with the new pump she runs great! As for the sleeves that pulled out, I used a brass punch to put the new ones in, a little high temp RTV on the top and bottom (no reaming needed) and pleanty of never seize...I DONT WANT TO GO THRU THIS AGAIN LOL! Thanks again guys -Sean J. Kelly

Appreciate it. I've never had a semi trailer before and my camper 5th wheel had never stuck in any tractor. This one was a surprise. The king pin on the trailer is noticably worn as is the plate. I'm going to replace that next week. The plate I'll have made and I can weld the pin assembly in myself. $65.00 for a replacement pin is not too bad it seems. The jaws are not binding on the pin at all but the jaws do come together and touch each other when closed around the king pin. Should there be some "slack" between the two?

Rob

Thats a good question, I would have to look at my tractor and see...and its snowin HARD so thats out for today. I would just play with it, back it off 1/4 and thats it and see what happens, If your going to replace the pin I wouldnt adjust it anymore than a 1/4 turn for now...wait until you have your new king pin then go from there.

If you wanted to splice the frame the right way, you have to stagger the welds...in other words you would have to replace the outer rail 2 to 3 feet forward of the crack on the inner rail, so to do this you would have to cut the outer rail 2 to 3 feet forward of your cracks now, remove the outer rail (from the cut point back) and replace...its a lot of work to do it right

Yes the outer rail would have to be replaced from the point where you cut it all the way to the back of the truck.

First, yes Sean, you were correct about my original post and I apologize for that. I should not have done that and just given all info. My fault, Sorry!

Everyone seems to have good ideas. I do like your suggestion Sean, but not sure I exactly follow you. It does not seem like you are saying to replace the whole outer frame rail but dont know exactly what you mean by splice it 3 ft forward? Are you saying to actually cut the outer rail away, weld the inner rail and then put a new pc. in welded 3 ft. away from crack on either side to help relieve stress that is right under the lift axle bracket? If not, could you explain a little further. And if you are saying to replace the whole outer rail, do you have any experience with how long this might take to accomplish removing and installing new one. I consider myself pretty mechanically inclined and know just from looking at it that it seems to be an immense amount of work.

Also, I am running about 75psi in the lift axle. When it is engaged you can fell it slightly raise the truck up but that is what I have been told by several guys to run it at.

Also, the welder was going to put something on the outside, but decided against it. Two reasons. First because the lift axle bracket is right where the crack is. Second, he was unsure of the regulations and wanted to know if I got stopped by DOT and had something welded on the outside of the frame, if that would constitute failing the inspection. He said with other cracks in frame rails he has repaired, he never had to weld anything onto the outside, but in this case, it might be necessary to end this problem.

If you wanted to splice the frame the right way, you have to stagger the welds...in other words you would have to replace the outer rail 2 to 3 feet forward of the crack on the inner rail, so to do this you would have to cut the outer rail 2 to 3 feet forward of your cracks now, remove the outer rail (from the cut point back) and replace...its a lot of work to do it right

Is that what the threaded stud protruding from the front of the platter with the locknut is for? This is to adjust clamping pressure on the king pin? I've never adjusted anything like this.

Rob

The bolt sticking out of the front is more than likely your slack adjustment (I know mine has the bolt and thats what its for) Back it off a 1/4 turn at a time counter clockwise...dont go too crazy because you dont want it too loose. The lack of grease would make it harder to release but not to the point where your prying it open. Back it off a 1/4, grease the jaws if your going to use a fifth wheel wear pad you DO NOT want grease on the plate or the trailer...its either the pad or grease NOT both. Back into your trailer and go from there...if its still hard to release back it off another 1/4 turn. When you go to release the jaws dont crank the landing gear down to the point where the trailer is lifting off the fifth wheel plate, that will also make it hard to release...and make sure you lock your trailer brakes then put a little reverse pressure against the trailer...then lock your tractor brake, the slightest forward pressure against the jaws will also make it very hard to release. Hope this helps...-Sean

Sounds like somebody at some time was pulling a trailer with a worn king pin and tightened the fifth wheel to take up the slack, and now you backed under a different trailer with a good king pin...and the fifth wheel is now to tight to unlock I've had this happen a few times

I remember your truck in your last post, I believe it was a brown slant nose RD if I recall, however when you asked for help last time you posted that you purposely withheld critical info while trying to rack our brains for help...like it was a test for us...I dont mean to be rude but when you have guys that are pitching in to help you its not polite to test us on our knowledge. As with that being said, yes I would fish plate your frame, or if you really wanted to do it right buy a set of rails for your truck and re-rail the broken side, but thats a lot of work. A good welder...and I mean good (I'm sure you know the difference) can repair those rails...I've stretched trucks since I was 15 and NEVER had a chassis crack. What I would do if you have the time is remove your outer rail, weld the inner rail, the splice the outer rail 3 foot forward of your crack and you should be fine, but once again this will require at least one new outer rail. -Sean

I would say a 180 thermostat would work, but not sure about B-models. My old DM600 (the 73 truck) has shutters and a 180 stat and the heat cranks. My engine is an old 237. Hope this helps...if you do have a thermostat it might be stuck open, this has happened to me countless times

I thought of the Edmund Fitzgerald as soon as I saw it. Here's some more pictures of it. It was so big it was hard to even get the whole ship in one picture.

Shes a big one alright, she's laid up for repairs, looks like they just painted the super structure...very interesting and cool pics! Wonder what she has for power...more than likely Sulzer diesels or Fairbanks Morse...gots to be big though! And I'm sure she likes her fuel LOL!

Just did some homework, as ships deff are one of my hobbies. The American Victory (the ship in the pic) is actually laid up for re-fitting...that would explain why she's sitting so high out of the water. Cool pic I must say!

Oh yeah,I went to Orchard Park,unloaded,then picked up some beams in Erie and went to Superior Wisconsin. Came back down to Chicago and picked up some stainless steel sheets- actually 6 lifts in Gurnee,then I had to layover to get one more lift in Franklin Park. That put me in snow,rain,sleet,snow,hurricanes,typhoons,hail storms,and snow all the way from about Lafayette,In. to Lewisburg,W.V. Unloaded yesterday at Oneal Steel in Madison Heights then had to go to Petersburg to load.And that had to be tarped too,55' beams going to Cincinnati.

Saw a big boat in Superior-it was big as a ship.

That ship appears to be beached...its deff sitting on the bottom because the you can clearly see the bow thruster. They might be getting ready to cut her up...looks like the Edmund Fitzgerald, deff your typical great lakes cargo ship