slspacek

I got it too.🤦‍♂️

I too was told that on the older Macks, the gold bulldog symbolized the maxidyne engine Vs the thermodyne. Some on else maybe able to verify, the maxidyne engine was overhead cam and the thermodyne was a push rod engine? ? ?

Does anyone know what voltage I should be reading on any of the six poles of ( what I was told was an 8000 Leece Neville alternator). This alternator has 6 wire connection studs. 3 are marked AC 1 is G+, 1 is G-, and the last one is marked F. Thank you. Sean

Does anyone know what voltages I should be reading between the different poles on an 8000 Leece Neville alternator when the engine is running? There are 6 studs with wires coming out off them on mine. Batteries are not charging when engine is running. It is on a 1966 C-95 Mack. Thanks fellas.

Bolt heads are 9/16, standard for 3/8" bolts. Havn't cleaned all the muck and road dirt off yet, would think they are probably just grade 5. Will post a pick soon.

I am replacing the U joints on my 1966 C Model fire engine. The Short shaft between the 5 speed tranny and the pump tranny has 8 hole flanges on either end the bolt to the Tranny's. When I was removing the shaft one bolt was missing from each set of flanges and the others were not very tight. I would like to replace all bolts with new ones. Are they a special bolt or can I use a standard bolt, grade5 or grade8. I know they are 3/8 " fine thread, and I am not sure but the shoulder portion of the bolt may be a little longer to allow the flanges to not "bear" against the threaded portion to the bolt were it may be weaker. Also does any one know if there is a recommended torque value for these bolts? Thanks guys.

I am replacing the coolant hoses on my 1966 C-95 Mack. most hoses are straight and I can find replacement hose. There is one hose on top of the heat exchanger that allows pump water to assist in cooling engines coolant. It is a 90 degree hose that hooks to the what I believe is the thermostat housing. Any one have any idea where I might find this hose? Will a piece of heater hose bend that tight ( I may try that soon). Thanks again guys. Sean

Thanks guys, I am going to replace the joints on the shaft due to the fact that on each end there was 1 bolt completly missing and the others were not very tight. Could have been some vibration there. Upon inspection of the other drive shaft from pump to rear wheels, there is oil/grease being slung from two of the caps. I will be replacing those as well. while the rig is down for the season this is the time to do it. Any advice on getting those U joints appart? Pretty sure they are the origionals from 1966.

I am replacing an input shaft on the pump transmission of my 1966 C-95 Mack fire engine. I had to remove the short drive shaft between the 5 speed and the pump tranny. I figured while it was out I might as well service the u joints on that shaft. I have the origional manual that came with the truck and it states that these joint should be lubricated with straight 90 weight gear oil and following that statement in the manual are the words ( in caps) DO NOT USE GREASE. These U joints are the ones with two bolts and a football shaped cap on each side of the cross holding the bearings in and on those caps are the words Spicer and use oil. Any one know why use oil versus grease? The crosses in the U loints have a grease gun type fitting on them as stated in the manual and apparently also a relief valve in case of high pressure. Next question, do they make a tool/pump that will fill these joints with the gear oil through the fitting? Any help or recommendations would be a huge help. I may replace the u joints while they are out, any suggestions on what to replace with? Thanks fellas. Keep on truckin. Sean

Do you remember how much it cost to rebuild the water pump?

Does any body out there know if parts are available to rebuild a series parallel switch? Mine is in a 1966 C-95 fire engine. It has three black sections with battery size connections on the first and third sections. The coil portion seems to work fine but the contact points are shot. I have tracked down a new one to the tune of $164.00, but the guy that sells it said they used to rebuild them ( not much demand anymore, I guess). I am going to check with a starter/alternator shop in my area on tuesday. Just curious if anyone new of a place to purchase rebuild parts. Thanks. Sean

You are the man! Wasn't sure if I could do any damage by over tightening, I am not a mechanic by trade. Thanks again. Sean

Does any one know if there is a reccomended torque value for reinstalling the nuts that hold the axle in the rear end? I have a 1966 C-95 fire engine that was towed recently and now it's time to reinstall the axle and gaskets. Should I just tighten them down with an impact wrench? Thanks fellas. Sean

I have a 1966 C-95 with the dual tach setup. I will try to check it out this weekend and get back to you. Sean