rhasler

Here's one for you sports fans.

http://www.angelfire.com/ak2/intelligencerreport/obama_at_bat.html

Be careful not to cut the o-ring when installing the shaft. I think the rebuild/gasket kit for the range cylinder comes with a special silicone based o-ring lube. I always apply a light coat to the o-rings and to the shaft.

I like Dennis, easy to deal with, and will do what he says. randyp

Well then, Dennis says to get Killer B over to rhasler's place and drop off the keys...pronto.

GOOOOD GAAAWWWD she's beautiful, congratulations Thad!

heh heh,,,geez rob,,never wore shorts? You didnt leave skid marks on seat did you? LOL randyp

Prolly not, I would guess that was before he discovered the wonderful properties of the chili dog.

Rob and Mark, finding they share a common interest, have entered the competitive world of hot air balloon racing. Here's a picture of their hot-rodded hot air balloon.

The VIN number listed is incorrect, it should be 1M1AA09Y8YW019785. Chassis was originally a CH612 with 350 HP E-Tech engine, Fuller RT14607B transmission, RS23186 Meritor rear axle.

We had an E-Tech run away backwards. It had an injector with a split tip and it filled the exhaust up with fuel (unknown to us at the time). Bumped the engine over with the starter and it picked up the fuel and started going backwards, then it started revving up, that's when I started running for shelter.

I need a t shirt now that says "I ran a 300 backwards and survived" randyp

No deal there buddy, youse gotta have that thing going at highway speed before you gets the T-shirt!

We need pics...

You can say that again!

BTW- corn binder parts DO NOT belong on a . That could be the problem anyway

You can say that again!

I'm guessing around 3,000-3,500 dollars

Randy, I saw that same grill this morning, no camera, didn't take picture as result. There was another one next to it mounted on a trailer with a ball hitch.

I see you learned your lesson from the Burger King incident and had your camera on the ready, you done good! By the by, that is one long wheel based MF!

We had a Western Star that we replaced one of the frame rails on. Took forever to get the frame rail cuz it had to come from Canada and then the freight company somehow managed to lose it and a second rail had to be ordered. As far as I know they never did find the first one.

I'm game, why were you sitting in Burger King? The world wonders.

Rob

Hope that wasn't where he took his "Momma" for their anniversary, I don't think those cast iron jockey shorts would stand much of a chance if that was the case!

Nice unit there rhasler, is one of those an impact driver, if so, what is torque on it? I been wanting one of those...randyp

It's not in the manual, had to go to Milwaukee's website. 1400 in lbs, 0-2200 rpm, 0-3200 ipm. When you hit the trigger unloaded you can feel it torque in your hand.

Here's my new unit, all kinda screwin' power with this one!

LOL! even up in jersey ,we yankees called a grill a grill! you're right on the money with what i thought a "unit" was! but you gotta remember,flatbedders/peterbilt drivers are NOTORIOUS for bumping their heads,causing dillusional thinking/impaired thought process?..............Mark

I say we all forgive him, but only if we're invited to the inaugural Boston Butt grilling with the new "unit".

And here I was thinking the A/C had finally quit working in the Peterbilt, derned misleading thread titles.

Removing ball joints? Get a high nut that is the same thread as the stud on the ball joint and a matching bolt, thread the bolt about halfway into the nut and then thread the assembly onto the ball joint stud, smack the bolt with a hammer and the ball joint should separate from the control arm. Best part about this is that it won't damage the threads on the ball joint.

I saws the other day that Tiger Tools has a set of adapters that works in the same that I'm seriously thinking about possibly getting in the near future (if everything works out.).

Ratchet-wise I prefer Mac's flex handles. Snap-On's are too fine and tend to strip out internally. My high dollar Snap-On 3/8 drive torque/angle wrench crapped out on my (electrically) the other day, cost 75-80 dollars to get repaired, came back like new though. I think the complete handle was replaced.

On a sidely note, while back I ordered a set of half moon wrenches or obstacle wrenches or starter wrenches or whatever you call them where you live. I ordered a set of metric and standard from Northern Tool, they were dirt cheap. When they arrived, I knew by weight of box, I might as well have lubed rear end and bent over for them. Wrenches are made by Sunex, China, must have melted down at least 15 or 20 beer cans to make them. Oh well, maybe will work for a lil while,,,,,randyp

Hate buying wrenches cause I only buy them in sets and they ain't cheap.

Most of the guys I work with won't even put up the money to buy Craftsman wrenches,let alone any kind of "specialty" wrench. Instead they have a mish-mash of Harbor Freight type crap that I wouldn't even bother melting down for scrap. Compared to them Sunnex is a high quality tool.

My preference is still Proto. Their wrenches are pretty similar to the Snap-On wrenches but cost substantially less. Mac wrenches have obnoxiously large open ends that I've never liked much. Matco and SK have been poorly represented here for a long time and I have no tools from either manufacturer.

Drain the oil, drop the pan, remove the fuel inlet line to the cylinder block, remove the fuel system check valve from the block and plug the block off with a 16mm x 1.5 o-ring seal plug, attach pressure vessel with UV dyed fuel and pressurize the fuel gallery and look for leaks coming around the cam lobes for the injectors and/or running down the block from the area of the camshaft.

Sounds like you cut the lower o-ring on the EUP when you installed it or maybe a worn EUP bore in the block. There is an improved o-ring kit that you can use. If the rest of the EUPs are old it could be that the fuel is coming from around the plungers on them too.