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Posts posted by rhasler
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Hypothetically speaking, yes.
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Glad I dont ever complain bout the heat, you wont hear me whining bout the heat, no sir, what heat? Mind control, I took up Yoga,,,nekkid,,,randyp
Absolutely right Randy, it is quite easy to condition yourself to the heat. I have found that by introducing a more immediate pain to the body the mind no longer concerns itself with the heat. I theorize and postulate that if you were to stake yourself out on a fire ant hill that almost right away you would be worried about the sun at all.
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Have to agree with Glenn. If you take the radius out of the fillet area on the crank it will produce a stress riser and cause the crank to snap.
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We had 2 bushes first.
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Engine oil pan drain plug-55 lb ft.
transmission drain plug 25-30 lb ft.
transmission fill plug (T300 with o-ring seal)-35-50 lb ft.
Torquing the NPT pipe plugs is not critical, make sure they're tight enough not to leak or to unthread by themselves. Don't overtighten the o-ring sealed transmission fill plug, it takes alot more to remove them than it does to reinstall them.
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Happy birthday Slpwlkr, hope you have a good one, maybe get a nice shiny Mack to replace that tired old Peterbilt!
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It's supposed to slide off. If it won't slide off you may be able to set up a large puller. If it is really seized on the dead axle spindle you may have to cut through the bushing housing and the bushing.
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I would've come unhinged long before the drain plug fell out.
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I thought the same thing.
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Get well soon Ernie.
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There is no ring on the one piece bushing. The sleeve, bushing, and ring are all one piece which presses into the trunnion housing.
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Has a picture of (I think) a Herefordshire on the label. They have a regular kind and a fajita marinade, both kinds pretty good.
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Tom, you ever tried Claude's brisket marinade? Pretty good stuff, I like it anyway.
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Snap-On has several complete sets. Sets A157C and A158B have the driver sizes you're looking for, but they may not fit your current driver handle.
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Artificial lubricants can plug and foul the bore. Natural lubricant inherent to the species, (ask randyp on that one) has no negative detractors other than smells a bit funny if not washed up shortly after it's use is completed.
Rob
Yes, routine maintenance is the key.
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Derned filthy minded truck drivers/owners.
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I sometimes apply a light coat of lube to the shaft too, but not always.
If you're doing things right and taking your time there shouldn't be a need to lube the shaft as most of the bores have a self lubricating tendency.
Rob
You guys have it all wrong, you should always apply lube prior to assembly. Doing so helps to ensure that your bore doesn't become "gapped out" and gives you years of enjoyment from your "unit".
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You might check the Puff Limiter on the front of the fuel pump and see if it's been blocked off. Something else that might help is a fuel system service/cleaner.
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From what I've seen there were only 1,367 R403 chassis produced domestically and 95 produced in Australia. The domestic chassis would have been an R403P, R403S, R403T, and R403X. The Australian chassis were R403RS and R403RX.
I don't know how many were built with Allison automatic transmissions, but it seems like that would be a somewhat rare truck.
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Make sure the auxiliary is shifted into low range when installing to the main case.
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The battery switch is powered by fuse 61, the stud labeled battery in the dash is powered by fuse 11. The keyed power switch is powered by fuse 30, the stud labeled ignition in the dash is powered by fuse 27.
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More Fun Than Digging Holes!
in Odds and Ends
Posted
Well, from the looks and sounds of it, what with you conversing with the beasts and all, youse is a regular St. Francis of A-Sissy, and of course we hafta accept the word of a saint, so youse gets credit for digging the holes...this time (next time set the camera up on a timer so everyone can enjoy the fruits of your labor).