MACKS

It could also be week or broken springs on the brake shoes or a flat spot or rust on the s cam,the brakes or drums could be worn to mush causing the s cam to get hung up,you might try to spray some wd40 or something like it directly on the s cam where it hits the brake shoe that will work for a while.And yes your truck should roll free when in neutral,you might also have a hard time shifting if a brake is hung up.Good Luck

You have to do it in fireing order,bring no 1 to TDC on the compression stroke and adjust boath valves,turn the engine in the normal rotation to bring the next cylinder in fireing order to TDC and adjust it's valves, keep going till your done.Just make sure your on the compression stroke, if your not sure crack the no 1 line at the pump and look for a squirt of fuel as you bring the no 1 to TDC.

Just go to a mack dealer and get one, they don't cost that much.I'm sure Barry could give you a price and ship one to you.

That black smoke cost me some money this year and a day in court,plus I had to have my truck re inspected before I went to court,no more black smoke for me.

I love the way thoes air intakes look,can't help woundering why there up so high,super dusty work or what.

Only one hour left and he has one offer,I would think that who ever buys it will sort it all out and re sell what he doesn't need.

Change the air filter first and then take a look at the puff limiter to see if its working, a quick way to check it is to do a full throtle snap test once with the parking brake on and once with the brake off, if it's working you will see a lot more smoke with the brake on.The puff limiter is on the front of the pump and has an air line on it comeing from the intake manafold.

Just a thought, what kind of fuel shut off does it have electric or cable, make sure it's opening all the way.I have a 90 mack that had an electric air shut off on the pump,I had to take it off and hook up a cable shut off because sometimes it wouldent shut the fuel off and sometimes it wouldent turn it on.

1983 e-6 315 with a 12 speed overdrive rears are 519 or close to it, this on a 10/w dump with a lot of stop and go, 4.6 mpg. I had a 70 237 10/w dump with 450 rears and a six speed that got a least 7 mpg in stop and go.

I would make sure it's getting fuel before you do anything, it's not likley that the timing jumped but it is posible, it happend to me once when the keyway on the pump shaft broke. Is this a working truck or a running truck, did it just not start one day, if it fires up with a shot of eather than more than likley it's a fuel related problem. Crack a few inj lines on the pump and see if you have fuel when you turn it over.

Is there any smoke coming out of the stack when you try to start it , if not it's not getting any fuel,if there is smoke it could be timeing. Let us know how you make out. Good Luck

I replaced the king pins on my 70 dm quite a few years ago and they were the tapered pins, yes you have to take the new pins, bushings, and the spindles to a machine shop to be fitted or honed, I can tell you it's not a fun job. I don't know if an 80 rd has the tapered pins or not.

It sold for 7,000 I thought it would go for at least 10,000, I think who ever won it got a pretty good deal.

If those are recent pictures it looks good the way it is, tuff looking mack.

That truck looks to be nice and clean with no rust to speak of, what is the HP rating for that bad boy, what do you think it will go for.

It's great to hear from you guys, it's nice to know whats going on in other parts of the country, I hope we all make a good living next year, bulldog man good luck hope you do well, briguy 520 I hear ya on the cheap labor it's something we all have to deal with and it's gonna realy hurt us in time.

I had the same problem mine was rusted out bad above the rear window, I took the back part off with a small grinder, cleaned the metal up good than used auto body filler and repainted, it looks pretty good. Make sure you prime the metal good I used that xo rust stoper before I filled with the body filler.

The key to a quiet cab is cab isolation and I don't think mack figured it out until they came out with the ch cl model,just press your ear to any metal part of the cab while the truck is running and you'll see what I mean.Thats why Rob says to cover all the metal you can get to even the inside of the door skins.My 70 DM'S were much quiter than my 83 R model. I also have a 90 rd that is very quiet I have no idea why unless mack used something to treat the metal with, one day I'll take a look behind the interior and see if they used something.

How did you guys do this year, what part of the country are you from and what do you think about next year. I'm from Long Island NY, this past year started out very slow but it picket up and turned into another good year. I hauled mostly asphalt this year and I had no problems with my 83 rd just a few flat tires. I'm not 100 percent sure about next year but it looks pretty good with a lot of road paving jobs to keep us busy. Good Luck to All.

Both rears normally move about the same when the bushings are bad, if you had them replaced then the bar it self could have been worn to much, who ever did the job should have checked the bar and saddles to see if they were within spec. One way to check is to jack up the truck one side at a time put the jack under the trunnion bar not the spring saddle, get a big pry bar inbetween the top of the spring and the frame and see of the spring has any movement. If your old bushings were worn all the way through then there is a good chance that the bar and the saddles were worn also.

The torque rod prevents the rear from twisting up or down not side to side, if your front rear is moving out of line side to side most likley the trunnion bushing are worn.Worn isolator pads will also allow some movement but not that much unless there really shot.

Glad you got it fixed, was it an air leak or was the line restricted?

Maybe an air leak, all it takes is a pin hole recheck all your feed lines and hose end fittings.

Ir your looking for something to use to decarb the piston and oil rings try sea foam, that stuff works great.

Not sure what you mean by an inner axle seal but if your talking about a regular wheel seal or axle seal just pry or drive the old one out and drive a new one in, if you can get the right seal tool it makes it easy to replace, you have to get it in straight and don't damage the rubber lip on the seal, if you will be doing your own brakes buy the seal tool it's money will spent, Hope this helps, good luck.