MACKS

Here are some torque specs for the maxidynes,300-1125@1260rpm, 285-1080@1200rpm,237-906@1200rpm,the torque specs for the econodyne are the same as the maxidynes,some engines are listed as EM6-350 Econodyne,I know that the M stands for Maxidyne,so I guess econodyne is an added feature to the engine,maybe it used less fuel or something.I'm gonna start another thread on this to see if we can get more info on this.

just heard on the news,bush says he's gonna step in and bail them out.

a 237 maxidyne and a 300 maxidyne...

you will feel a power diffrence. at least I do. nothing bad about the little 237 but the 300 with air to air will pull better. I would think 3rd gear around 1400 would be your speed for the bigger hills with a 237 . My 285 can pull 3rd gear and hold full rpm most of the time up a hill if I have a run at it. if you need a low hole gear just replace the 5 speed with a 6 speed or even better the 12 speed over drive!! just make sure the 6 speed is a direct model and not the 2060 model

iI agree with everything you say,but in his post he goes on to say that the engine is a econodyne and not a maxidyne,eather way more than enough power for a single axle dump,I have a book around here if i can find it,I'll check the specs just for the heck of it.

tHIS IS JUST MY OPION,THE 237 WILL OUT PREFORM THE 300 ECONODYNE THE 237 IS A HARD PULLING ENGINE RIGHT DOWN TO 12OO RPM,AS FAR AS THE TRANY GOES THE ONLY DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A FIVE AND A SIX SPEED IS THE LOW HOLE WITCH IS ONLY USED FOR OFF ROAD.bY THE WAY I WOULD THINK THAT IF YOU NOW HAVE A FIVE SPEED YOUR ENGINE WOULD BE OR SHOULD BE A MAXIDYNE AND NOT A ECONODYNE.

It's called a six speed,a five speed has no low,and low is only used in first gear.

Like HK said the tank type are easy to install and they work great,I have one on an old payloader and it still works after 20 years,also there is a magnetic type that you just stick on the block or oil pan and plug it in,check on e-bay there are always a few for sale there.

Before you move the bar,scripe a mark in case you want to move it back where it was,I was told by moving it foward the engine would get more fuel but I never tryed it.I have no idea what number 3 does. Good Luck

I would say look for a cl front end,they came with the heavy front ends and rears.I have a 20,000 axle in my cl and I have to tell you it rides a little rough when the truck is empty.

Hard shifting in cold weather is a common problem with the 12 speed trany,a lot of guys inculding myself warm the truck up with the splitter in nutral and the stick in third gear, this helps alot,also make sure you have the right lube in the trany,if it's to heavy your going to have a lot of problems when it gets cold. Hope this helps,Good Luck

What HK said,you just have to remember,engine speed must match trans speed,try lightly scratching the gears while raising or lowering the rpm you will be able tell by sound and feel when its just right to slide into gear.

Not 11/24 but I bought 8 12/24 a few months ago,the best deal I could find were continantal at 470 each.

I've never seen them in gold myself. That was a "tongue in cheek" type of comment with no application of sense. I could not bring myself to ridicule someone that has not harmed, instigated, or initiated any negativity towards me first.

They are astronomically overpriced as they are still readily available from most any Mack Trucks dealer at nearly the same price I paid.

I do think that a set either brass, or gold plated would look nice if installed on a "purebred Mack" drivetrain equipt truck. I would leave the script letters chrome, along with the outer band for a nice contrasting touch.

Rob

LOL,I just reread your first post,I guess I diden't get enough sleep last night or maybe to much.but your right gold plated mirrors would look sweet along with a gold dog on the hood.

I neaver saw them in gold only crome or painted,are the ones you have gold if so maybe they are worth more,I'd love to see a picture of the gold ones if you have one.

I have two trucks with 12 speeds and they both have the big u joints,just in case you don't know,that tranny comes in overdrive and direct,so make sure you check the numbers on the side of the tranny.Good Luck

There is someone on E-bay that sells them.

Thank you all for the info,I took the cheap way out and had the spring shop replace just the one leaf,I know it's not a permente fix but hopefully it will last to the end of this season and next year I plan to replace both rear springs.

I went to have my 96 mack inspected today a found out I have one broken leaf spring,my question is can I just replace the one leaf or do the whole stack,all the rest look good,of course I'm trying to save some money.I might be wrong but to me it doesent make sence to do one side of the truck with new springs,I would rather wait and do both sides at the same time wnen I have the extra money and some time.Just woundering what some of you guys think.

Thats a sweet looking rig,strait stacks from the factory,or are there internal mufflers?

Thanks for your replys,No it's not a computer controled engine,thats what I like about it simple heavy spec mack just like the RD I have now only a much more comfortable cab and ride.

I was hoping for a little more feed back,any one running a cl dump,or a tractor with a dump trailer,good things,bad things,or any thoughts at all,just hope I made the right choice.I am moveing up from an 1983 RD.

Looking good,what are you going to be hauling with it,thats a huge body on that truck,Best of luck with it.

Nice. Where are you located on LI?

I'm in Brookhaven Town,Patchogue area.

I replaced one on my R model last year, it cost 350 and came in three peices two ends and the center,it was very easy to bolt in,just leave all the bolts loose until you get them all in and then hit them with a big air gun.

Not sure how long the oil has been in the truck,the truck is for sale and the owner doesent know much about it,the truck came with a bussines he bought,it has been sitting for six months,the pressure jumps right up with a little rev.