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Posts posted by MACKS
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No filter,my fuel tank was converted to a hyd tank when i added a drop axle,thats where that piece of aluminum came from,I took the tank off and flushed it out good added all new hyd fluid,400 bucks just for the hyd fluid,nothing is cheap any more..lol
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Do they sweep it up and re use it?
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Drained it out and dropped the pump,took out the selector valve and clean it and inside and also the pressure valve blew everything out with compressed air and also clean out hyd tank and re installed with new hyd fluid,same problem,so tomorrow I'll get a new pump and be done with it..
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My dump trailer did the same thing for awhile and I didn't know where to look for a problem and one day it started working like it should. I figured it must have had apiece of dirt somewhere. Good luck
exactly my thought but where and how do i get to it to clean it,if i wasn't hauling asphalt i could let it go.
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Its a telescopic,let it down and tried to stop it but it just slows it down,it comes down normal if i put it in hold or up position it just comes down slowly.
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A) the packings in the piston are bad, causing it to leak back
the directional valve is got something keeping it open and holding
Either way, make DAMN WELL SURE you prop the body before going under
Im sure its not the piston and the valve is closing all the way,i went under and taped it in the make sure,could there be something wrong with it like o ring or something,seems like its just not shuting of the flow.
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Its a side mount pto and Munchi hyd pump mounted to a Mack 12 speed.problem is all of sudden the body wont stay up loaded or empty,goes up fine but then slowly come right back down,the directional valve is moving freely back and forth when i move the lever,its air operated,thinking theres dirt or something stuck some where,but where,can i take something apart and clean it or should i take the pump off and bring it somewhere to be fixed,got to get back up asap,thanks for any help
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Sounds to easy..lol,congrats.
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Yup,i just cleaned my evaporator for the first time on my 96 cl,what a difference.vent temps are now 44-45,also make sure the gasket in the cover is good or you wont pull the air across the evaporatorWhat I've seen on CH. CX and similar models (same cab basically) is most systems that had an issue was because of poor heat exchange across the evaporator due to corrosion on the evaporator fins and/or a plugged/dirty heater core. Because of its design, the evap is always getting dirty, even with a pre-filter it doesn't seem to help much. I kinda harp on that (air flow through the evap) because I see it so much.
One of 2 things is happening, either the expansion valve is allowing slightly too much refrigerant through the evap. and its not able to absorb the heat inside the cab fast enough OR due to lack of good heat exchange (air flow or corrosion). When I check a/c system vent temps it is always at high speed, engine at 1000 rpm and on recirculate. Once the cab begins to cool down then you can turn down the blower motor speed. On road tests the vent temps usually were around the mid to upper 40's due to the ram air through the condenser and higher rpm.
During the transition from R-12 to 1134a there were some CH models that vent temps between 50-55 was as good as it got. Your system should have vent temps in the mid to upper 40's on the road
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I will check with mack thanks for the info.I thought the 90's CH and CL's had a filter in the heater/ac box that was replacable. The same thing goes for that truck, keep the AC on recirc it closes off the oiutside vent and keeps the dust out, or its supposed to anyway.
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I just cleaned the evaporator on my 96 cl,the one side was caked over with hardened dirt but there are no filters on my truck,should there be?AC works 100 times better now.
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Well it rides awesome on a smooth road but they are few and far between here on long Island,lol guess were not paying enough taxes for nice smooth roads..Yep CV Granites, set forward, heavy axles, tri axle dumps. The CL has longer springs too so the ride quality should be a little better either way.
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Yup,apparently the factory gasket doesn't have the removable strip in it so the whole gasket has to come out,I don't know how the heck they got it back in lolKnow the feeling. I have done some flat glass work but usually have the glass guy do the curved stuff.
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Thanks for the info,are the Granites dump trucks and they are axle forward right,the cl with axle back probably has more bounce than the forward i would thinkSounds like some good info there. As far as on CV Granites I had the multileaf 18k and several friends had the taper leaf 18k, the taper leafs were bad about breaking a leaf on the right side my mutlileaf never had an issue. However in a Granite there was a big rid quality difference from taper to multi in the 18k rating.
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Thanks Milkman you should know the deal having both,looking to get rid of the bounce like when you hit a dip in the road and front end feels like it wants to launch into outer space,lol
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I was thinking about doing this myself, thank god I didn't, it took three experienced guys over an hour and a half to do both windshields.
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Still have the original front springs on my cl 20,000 multi leaf,when i do have new springs installed should I go with the same or would the tapered springs give me a better ride?
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Ive seen some pretty tall spacers on those three leaf springs,I would check with a spring shop they will know and you can buy the spacer and u bolts from them.Even 3" is a lot
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Gods country,absolutely beautiful.
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I have 58 rears in my dump truck,I guess that will stop them before they kiss the tailgate!!
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you have to get your truck inspected twice a year?I haven't had one of those on my truck in all most 20 years. No one has ever asked.I have my bi annual state inspection. That's good enough for me.
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Just a side note,my buddy just got a ticket from the dec for dripping oil out of the breather tube onto the road,just a few drops,cost him a morning in court and 150 bucks..
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How do you like that demon windshield,thinking about getting one for my bike,is it easy to take off?1982 450 NightHawk.
Weight and handling the thing off/on the front porch was a major consideration...
I love the bike. It's plenty fast enough to get into trouble, lightweight, easy on fuel and repairs/maintenance are a breeze.
I'd gone 36 years without. 2012 found me deciding to give in to the annual fever I'd get and I found this little project waiting to go back on the road, having sat since 1985 with 12,300 on her.
Except for tires, paint and a few cosmetic things, it's all original. Still has the factory-installed plugs in it.
I knew what I was going to do when I decided to bring her home.
It carries a fire engine theme and gets a fair amount of approval and compliments.
She is my therapist.
Munchi hyd pump problem!
in Engine and Transmission
Posted
That would be nice but I dont think there's enough room,never had a filter on any of my other dumps and no problems,see how it goes,so if any one has a similar problem you know where to look first.