seyser

Nice work!

The place I found that has parts has everything except they are out of the 24" pins that this trailer has. I could have those made so not a huge deal. Each beam gets 2 bushings, The pin has zerks on both ends and the grease exits where the bushings ride. The trailer would probably only see 750 miles a year so with new pins and bushings it probably wouldn't give me much trouble. Still pondering!

I can definitely hear the tip turbine on my R model. I would describe it like being in a vehicle with a sequential twin turbo, the smaller turbo is like the tip. It seems the tip is always spinning and making itself known even at light throttle.

Nice clean install, Looks great!

I managed to find a company that purchased all remaining stock of parts for this brand of trailer. They also had some parts made but have very few left. The gentleman I spoke with had knowledge of the brand. He mentions they produced thousands of trailers over the years. Many for municipal and specialty use. He said they made all their own suspensions and they were cutoff like that from the factory. I'm looking for a trailer to haul some vintage dozers to local shows. My D7 weighs 16 ton and that's probably the heaviest it would be used for.

Gothcha, That makes sense! It would be a proper way to make the repair.

Yes that would probably be an option to make it right. I bet the spindle is solid as the outer end is obviously turned down to accept the hub/bearings. Just my guess though? Its a great trailer for someone who has the talent and equipment to do it.

I spoke with a local truck/trailer place that does this stuff everyday and they haven't seen one like this. They expressed the same concerns with not having the axles tied together. They mentioned replacing bushings wouldn't be a problem but didn't think it would ever stay in alignment with the way its designed. The trailer paint is original and I still see it on the axle stubs so cant tell if it left the builder this way or they were cut later at some point. I cant imagine a reason anyone would ever do that though. Its a nice straight rust free trailer but I will probably keep looking at this point. I appreciate all the comments and insight on this!

Geoff - I appreciate the reply! I'm a novice with this stuff and I understand the concern with not having the axles hooked together as I'm sure that would help make it more ridged. I suppose this does allow each tandem oscillate more. Let me ask the question, Would this design not be common practice for older built equipment trailers? I know there were many more smaller trailer companies around years ago but I haven't been around many to know how they were built?

I have been on the browse for an older lowboy trailer. I found an old Wisconsin Trailer Co fixed neck trailer that's in nice shape but needs running gear work. This has a walking beam suspension that doesn't appear to be of a name brand but built by the trailer company. Can these be rebuilt? It has wear on the tires and I can visually see its not running true. I'm sure the pins and bushings are totally wore out. I have no experience with any of this stuff so trying to see what can be done with something like this? -Jeremy

Has anyone ordered an OEM R model floor mat lately? I ordered one from my local Mack dealer and when looking at it there are extra holes down near the throttle and brake pedal. I did some research and I suspect these to be for a metal heel pad that I see in some trucks? My truck doesn't have this and I prefer to keep it that way. Does Mack sell this floor mat without those holes? I have attached a photo of the mat that I received. When I browse the Watt's site they show a photo of an OEM mat without these extra holes. I will try to contact Barry and see if they changed at some point?

Awesome! Glad it went well. BTW - I like your garage/shop. A true working mans shop, I'll guessing every engine part on the bench or shelf has a story to tell. Keep the photos coming!

Keep up the good work!

Very nice!!!

Looks great!

Looks like a nice clean cab. Keep us updated on your progress!

I went to move my R model the other evening and noticed a slight leak from the main air tank. It appears to have a pin hole where its held by the mount. What is the best option for a replacement? Can I source a new one with all correct fitting locations through the local Mack dealer? Thanks, Jeremy

Added these decals to each side of the truck. They seem pretty fitting:)

The strap on my right fuel tank had moved and needed to be tightened up so I figured this would be a good time to take it completely loose and clean under it. I removed the welting and cleaned the debris from under that and cut a new piece of rubber that was missing on the top mount area then tightened everything back up.

This weekend I removed the front grille and cut some window screen to hang in front of the radiator. I cut a 28x37" piece and wrapped it around the edges of the radiator then when the grille was reattached it held the screen in place. It all worked pretty slick and this should help keep the bugs out of the radiator fins.

Only on old grain trucks like our stuff.

Time to get ready for fall harvest so pulled the Mack out of the shed yesterday. It doesn't need much other then some light servicing. Both fuel filters were due and I greased everything. How many pumps of grease is recommended for the throw out bearing? I pretty much treated it like the brake adjusters and one gave it one pump.

Looking good!

Job well done!!