fordguyhey

Well that puts the nail in the coffin as far as I'm concerned. Now I absolutely have to do it. So, again, if anyone has the necessary parts for sale, please let me know. -Ryan

Does anyone know of a good turbo and manifolds for a 711? I know it's probably not worth it, but I've got a B-61 10 wheel dump truck with an awesome running 711 in it. I know they're prone to blowing head gaskets, but I still want to try. The motor i've got is the later model with more head bolts so maybe it will last a little while...

I see what you're saying about the mount. I guess I'll just fabricate off of whatever is on the big cam. As far as the pull clutch goes I've already got a swinging pedal and cable assembly out of an R model installed in my cab so I'll just need some bracketry underneath to support the cable and I should be all set.

Did all B-73s have Cummins motors or just some of them? I was under the understanding that the only major difference between a B-75 and a B-73 was the engine. I will call Kevin and pick his brain about it too.

hey everyone. I have the opportunity to buy a 400 Cummins for a good price and was thinking about putting it in my B75. Does anyone know if I would need to get motor mounts out of a B73 with a cummins in it in order to make this work. Is there anything else that would make this a problem? -Ryan

I am getting the same error message.

That's the transmission I want to put in my truck. Right now I've got a TRQ7210 in my B75 but its single disc. I'm going to be making the truck tandem axle and putting in a 285 maxidyne so I'd really like to have a double disc clutch.

Does the trans in your DM have a double disc pull clutch or single push clutch? Also, do you know what model the trans is? (numbers on the side of the case?) -Ryan

you should be able to see what is left of your clutch brake when you take down the inspection cover at the bottom of the bellhousing. If there is still brake material left on the brake disk, all you have to do is adjust the clutch fork so that it travels farther. Usually on Macks you adjust the fork at the top of the bellcrank that the clutch cable connects to on the side of the transmission. Once you've got it adjusted so that you can feel the brake engage when the pedal is about an inch off the floor, all you have to do is make sure you have freeplay in the clutch pedal. If you don't have enough, you adjust freeplay on the clutch pressure plate. If your clutch brake is completely wiped out you can replace it without pulling the transmission. You will have to carefully cut off the old one (I've done it with a torch, but it's not a lot of fun!) and you can replace it with a two piece clutch brake that wraps around the pilot shaft and pins together.

Hi, I was just reading through some of these older posts and saw that you said you had a new harness coming. Just wondering where you got it from? I saw that new ones cost over 1,300 at Watt's and I figured I would attempt to make a new harness myself for that price. -Ryan

I was looking at the pictures of Matt Pfahl's B-61, and saw that he had put a superliner front axle under his truck. I am planning on putting my B-75 cab on a running R model frame that I have, but I was doing some measuring and the only thing holding me back from tearing into the project at the moment is the fact that the R model front axle is 6 inches wider than the b model axle. I don't want the tires to stick out past the fenders. I noticed on a B61 that I have together with the fenders on it still that the tire sit just inside the fenders. This makes me think that it might just mean that my tires will be even with the fenders if the R model front axle is used. Unless a superliner front axle is narrower??? As always I appreciate any and all input.

after some measuring, it looks like the biggest problem I'm going to have to deal with is that the R model front axle is like 6 inches wider than the b model. So I guess my tires might stick out of the fenders a little bit.

In case anyone is interested in the topic... try this link out found a little info on converted B models. its a PDF you have to go down to page 25. http://www.macktrucks.com/assets/mack/BulldogMag2006V2_PDF.pdf

Also, Mack calls the TRQ7210 a 14 speed and the TRQ7220 an 18 speed although they are both shifted the same way.

The other problem I might have to deal with is that I want to do this with a B75. The only B models I've heard of on R model frames are short nose trucks like B61 style. The B75 is like 9 inches longer in the nose so I'm going to be doing some careful measuring this weekend.

The only way I would ever do this is if it would come out looking like it was supposed to be that way. I guess I'll have to do some homework and see how well it will work. Otherwise I will be stretching my frame.

Does anyone have any pictures or info on the B to R model conversions?

I was curious if anyone has ever seen a B model cab put on an R model frame? I'm in the process of making my B75 tandem and I've picked up an R model for all the donor parts. People keep telling me I should just put the B model cab on the R model frame that is already tandem. I haven't done any measuring yet, but I'm really curious if it's even possible without tons of fabrication. Me personally, I would rather keep the B model frame under the B model, just wondering what everybody else thinks.

I've got a B61 with those gears and a non turbo 711 and I haven't really topped it out but I think it does around 55-60mph.

I plan on using the truck to haul mostly antique tractors but realistically I can't see myself hauling much over 10 to 15 tons. And yes I know it will probably do over 100mph in 5th but i guess to avoid speeding tickets I won't be using 5th very often. LOL

I'm putting together a B75T and I really want to make it a tandem truck. I have the opportunity to buy a set of 38k rears with 4.17:1 gears at a decent price. I also have an older 285/237 maxidyne with TRQ7210 quadbox in the truck. I'm wondering if anyone else has run a setup similar to this. I know I won't be using overdrive very often with those gears, but I'm also wondering if I'll be frying the clutch trying to get moving on the low end. Its not very nice for the tranny to shift from 1stLL to 1stLo split because the jump is huge, I've done it in other B models but I don't think I want to be doing it every time.

I have two B75s. One that had a 711 in it that I took out, and another one that I got for parts that had an ENDT676 in it. The one that had the 676 in it didn't have power steering but did have spin on oil filters, they were just short ones from NAPA, as far as I know the truck was owned and operated by Don Orall's Garage and was a wrecker spending a lot of time on the New York State thruway. From what I know about the truck, it worked for years without any issues from oil filters. I plan on using the motor in the B75 that I'm putting together and hopefully before I put it in, I'll have a power steering box too.

Sorry about the huge quote in my last reply i'm new at forums so I haven't quite figured it all out yet.