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BulldogMack

Puppy Poster
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    Michigan

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    R688ST

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  1. So, what weights would a truck in the title pull? What would be considered too much?
  2. Thank you for your in depth explanation. I respect and appreciate your knowledge and first hand experience. Up here, even just pulling a lead without the pup, still yields a handsome payday. Maybe not as much as trains, but you’re not putting near the strain on components, in my mind thinking long term saves money in the end because you’re not working a truck to its screaming limits. I’m not exactly planning on pulling trains, maybe just a lead. It’s more or less a fail safe if I have no other option. I got the dump truck just about wrapped up. And in a couple months I plan on getting a tractor. Mack of course. Just trying to decipher which route to go, instead of purchasing a dry van hauler and being limited to 80k when most work in the mitten surely exceeds that. It’d probably be smarter to look towards an occasional 120-140k lbs MAX truck to get going. Just trying to safely get a versatile unit to play it safe. Everything up here is heavier
  3. I did see a superliner with an n14 in it out west.
  4. I could definitely see that being the case. The r model alone is a parts hunt let alone a truck made in significantly less quantities. There seems to be quite a few semi-local cl700s cat, x15, and e7 powered. Parts availability theoretically would be more viable, yes?
  5. Good evening folks. In the upcoming months, I am going to be in the market to purchase a super dog. I’m going on the lower end of commonly spec’d trucks, and am inquiring to those who’ve actually pulled with these trucks. 350/Mack 12, 44k rears As many of you know, Michigan legal weights can be up over 160k lbs. Will that combo do it? Obviously no it’s not a race winner but basic and bulletproof combo is the end game. “Michigan Special” trucks get thrown around daily here, but I’m curious as if a “Superdog” spec’d would do the job. Not going for speed. More of a reliability standpoint. Thank you all, and I look forward to your input!
  6. Anybody got a thread pitch to suggest?
  7. I absolutely have not figured anything out lol. I’ve been working too much since I made this post to even try to figure something out. I’m hoping somebody who knows can prevent me from going and buying handfuls of nuts lol
  8. The rod is pretty spot on with the door as far as movement goes. The linkage had a lot of slip out of the box but I shimmed that up nice. I just don’t understand how different it is means that the piston has nowhere near enough travel to open it fully. I’m bummed I spent the money on a new vent but at the same time, I don’t have any time to fabricate a goofy linkage with a big swingto Make it work as is. I guess it’ll be inop for awhile. It’s winter anyways lol
  9. So, I have shimmed the rod as it had alotnof play in it (brand new, awesome…) and it opens 1/4 of the way it’s supposed to. The piston rod evidently isn’t long enough to fully open the vent.
  10. Brother, headache is an understatement! But it’s all coming together one piece at a f….. frustrating time lol. Yes it is air operated and I wish mine was a hand crank for simplicity sake, but here we are. I enjoy it just as much as I despise it at times. Hopefully soon she’ll be on her own merry way barking all over the county!
  11. Paul, I replace the seal, and the unit is entirely brand new. The hinge itself moved what I’d considered normal, but I will try to lube it up real good tomorrow. I’ll double check as well and make sure it’s not all bound up. If I am hearing some sort of function from the driver seat when I move the switch, would that indicate everything under the dash is working properly, and potentially the vent itself is bound up?
  12. I had to call her an early night as we are in the beginning of an ice storm up here in the mitten state. After work tomorrow I’m going to the hardware store because amongst the chaos in the shop, I put my wiper arm nuts in the wrong special spot so I could remember where I put them. So with any luck, would any of you gentlemen/ladies off the top of your head by chance know what size/thread/all that fun jazz nuts I need? It stalled progress tonight and that’s the only thing keeping it in the shop as of the moment lol. Thank you all!
  13. So my r model project is almost complete. Down to buttoning up a little bit of this and a little bit of that. This things been both a dream, and a headache. But it’s gonna be worth it. Anyways. I bought a new cowl bent as my other one was brittle and broken and the hinge had seized. When I brought the truck home, the vent was disconnected already. Nonetheless, I hooked up the linkage, and aired the truck up to check my cab ride height. Looks good. When I slide the switch over, it clicks, makes the “door” of the vent budge a small bit, and that’s it. I decided to call it a night. I am seeking knowledge from the Mack community on what to look for, after I get out of work tomorrow. I’ll unhook it to start and see if the linkage moves. To be fair I don’t know how these work, and am absolutely willing to learn. Thank you, and i appreciate the future advice! God Bless.
  14. So the kit I received must be for different applications as well? I’ll remove everything between the shoe and the backing plate, and put the springs on the outside of the shoe. I’ve never seen these style brake shoes and I am entirely uncertain on how tight they’re supposed to be. I’m assuming just use whatever spring holds them in better?
  15. So should I mushroom the nail or pinch the retainer in some way to assure it won’t come off?
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