T-Mack1

I can walk to Macungie. Although I never measured it, I would say it's about 2.5 to 3 miles. I do know the Mack factory is 3.8 miles from my house. Yep, use to take 6-8 minutes to get to work.

Very Nice Vlad. The Mack museum has a 1945 NM that they have in running condition and nicely restored. ( YouTube video below) There is also a video of a 1945 NO on there YouTube channel. https://www.youtube.com/@macktruckshistoricalmuseum7922

mowerman, mrsmackpaul and tjc transport, Yes, a heater in an open cab sounds strange. The Spec sheet we got from the Museum had OMIT on the heater line. But, we use to own a 1946 jeep CJ-2A and it had a heater in it that helped keep the passenger's feet warm. And we do have the duct work in our dash sheet metal to have a defroster and that could, "in theory", help warm the face up a tiny bit. I have the bows from a boat that fit nicely, just have to get canvas made. As for the windows, the passenger side is mostly there, with only an inch or two at the top cracked off. The Drivers side is gone.

Pictures of my repair for the leaking Aeroquip treadle supply hose. Note: I added a Tee to the treadle supply line just below the treadle and plan to use it to supply air to the park brake valve when we convert the rears from Service only to spring brakes.

Last one for today. The Dry/Slippery Road switch was originally on a bracket under the dash. So, for a cleaner look, moved it into the dash where many B61's have it (nothing was there). Note, the water temp gauge is only temp mounted. Previous owner mounted a mechanical gauge but didn't put it in the dash. Moving it into the dash is on the "to-do" list when we change the coolant.

Floor plates. They were not bolted down when we bought the truck. Cleaned, primer'd and painted. Then I made rubber hole filler pieces.

Took a gamble and bought a replacement speedometer cable. It fit the speedo perfectly. The Tranny side wasn't fitting. Measured the screw on retainer ID. Old cable was 0.825 inches, the new was 0.805. Dremeled it a tiny bit, measured. Dremeled a little more, measured... repeated till I got it to fit. We now have a working speedometer, weeooo....

My brother, co-owner Jack got a heater at the Macungie show. Sorry, only before picture I have is when I pressure checked it, but you can see the rust. Cleaned, treated the rust, most of the pitting filled and painted. And, the 12v fan motor worked. yay!!!!

Next, we picked up an ash tray from DM800guy . Cleaned it up, filled the rusted thru holes, made a new spring catch and painted. Came out decent. Now have to fix the hole someone hacked into the dash at the ash tray opening.

Sorry it's been awhile. here's some more updates. I think we said it earlier, Gas tank leaked. Took it off to get repaired. Someone had put fiberglass on three of the sides and both ends. so I took the fiberglass off and found several holes. Also found the sending unit almost totally rusted away. So tank got sent it out to get repaired. Moyer's tank repair in Greensburg, Pa. While it was out for repair, I cleaned and painted brackets. Bought a gauge & sending unit. Added rubber isolation strips. It was a pain in the butt getting it back in. But no leaks so far.

Not sure I can answer but what I see...... You have a bunch of optional switches (Key and Battery icons). And some kind of red thing. Key icons should be working with IGN on, and the Battery icons work directly off the battery. Is this a new issue??? When you pull what would be the yellow knob, a dash Park brake light should come on. Does it?? And, the center switch on the center row looks like it's ON in the OFF position (could be a camera angle thing though. Is that ON?? Is there some kind of interlock for the Body that might be affecting things? What's in the dash is an optional wiring harness (called an Overlay at the factory) for the optional switches that the body builder and or dealer hooks up stuff to. The switch connectors on the back side of the panel all fit on any switch with only a few exceptions. The top two connections on the switches is the power for dash illumination for the icons. It's odd that those 2 switch icons go out. And there may be a overlay for the dash switch/lock switches too. Also, the overlays have small connectors for the icon illumination (just saying so you understand that those connectors might be plugged in wrong) I would pull the dash panel off and check the labels on the switch connectors. It can be a spaghetti of wiring behind there. Good luck. (Note: I work from 2011 to 2016 at the factory and was Flex-repair on the cab line for 3 1/2 of those years)

That's the trailer protection valve (TPPV), and almost looks like it could be a dual-function trailer protection valve. Dual function means, if trailer attached, if trailer hose tears away, the massive air flow will shut off air to trailer. If trailer not connected, the Hand-Control (AKA trolley valve) will act like a service brake.

Correction, our current hood emblems are B60

That looks pretty close to the one I saw at the Mack museum, the brochure and on YouTube. We couldn't find one so I modified an Edelbrock air cleaner to fit.

Thanks Bob. In some of the clean up, I found that the unused brass 5/8" air line to the trailer that was just bangling, capped, under the tiller turntable (fire-truck fifth wheel to you none fire guys) was long enough to use.

The Heinz, You have to remember. I worked at the factory and I only ever got to drive brand new trucks. Only days or even hours after coming off the line (though job but someone has to do it). So new clutch, new trans & new harnesses. I never heard of any issues that occurred in the 1-2 years of operation "window" the engineers fed info to us on, to pay attention to.

Many of us think the "Mack" on the new grille is off center (too Low) but that's because of cooling system placement. Yes, the windshield takes some getting use to. I will say, when driving, it's almost like you're in a COE because the slope is such you basically see the road and not much hood. I'm wondering what they will look like after the Aftermarket make all the chrome options.

J Neiweem, We were told that an updated CHU (now a PI) was under consideration. I have no other info. Next, we were told that they will be offering more Cummins choices. This is sort of related to the MP7 having issues meeting the 2025 emissions. Although, I think it may be the high HP versions of the MP7 (395 & 415 hp). With the Cummins, comes the option of the Eaton "Endurant" Automated Manual Trans. I've driven them but they hesitate between shifts more noticeably than the Mack m-Drive.

Still have to install the tach. Once I re-setup the points gap I want to check the timing of each distributor. Only issue doing that is we have out timing mark on the flywheel and as far as I can see, it is the type at the bottom of the bell housing. Not sure my timing light will reach. May have to get creative.

So, I just retired from the Quality Group at the Mack Macungie plant. Part of the groups function is reviewing new projects. So, that said, I first worked on the new Pioneer and the improved Anthem in Oct of 2023. They needed completed truck cabs to send for the NHTSB crash testing. The last one was a few days before I retired on January 10th 2025. I know exactly what the new Anthem looks like, but ..... sorry, I signed non-disclosure papers on the project. I can say it rides real nice. And, both the Pioneer and the refreshed Anthem get an advertised 11% better fuel mileage (relative to how much lead is in your foot). If you are still driving for a living, get your annual fuel bill out and figure out what 11% is. Are the Mack Pioneer and the Volvo VNL the same? Only sort of. The Mack maintained the dash layout that is more setup for the working man (switches closer to reach), and slightly nicer trim levels. It also maintains the engine programing that gives the truck better throttle response, leaving MPG up to the driver (there is times you need power like getting on a busy interstate). They share many many body and frame parts, which can help save costs and keep the company competitive. As for the new look, well I didn't like the look of the original Anthem when it came out, but it grew on me. Same with the new trucks. What I know about the Granite Axle back and both axle forward models (Pinnacle & Granite), They are marked for updates but I don't have dates. The update are part of the latest emission standards which has fuel mileage requirements. As for the axle forwards, I was told Volvo does not offer an Axle forward so they don't fully understand why people want them. Maybe they should watch the training videos Mack has on the different axle configurations and the why of them. A rather boring video but good info. The last Anthem sleeper rolled off the assembly line a week of two ago. The last Old style Anthem day cab will roll off later this year.

We haven't traced all the wiring yet. But, it seems that the choice is IGN "L" at regular voltage or "R" at regular voltage, or both. When I was installing the points, I noticed that the two distributors are ever so slightly timed differently. I do need to re-gap the points because at the time I only had the 707B tune-up info and the 707C are a tiny bit different. It does run better on both, but that could be having the two different firing times.

There's a company in Virginia , Brillman Company, that sells the parts online. http://www.brillman.com We got two rotors, two points and two condensers for our ENF707C for around $46, including shipping. Their business is selling electrical parts & wire for antique tractors and antique trucks.

Flex line is cloth outer, then steel braid and I assume rubber inside. The cloth is falling off. Areoquip...... I did a year in "Valve Groom" at the Macungie plant, which is next to the Areoquip guys.

I have a question for those that know. On our 1957 fire truck with air brakes (B85F-1211), the treadle valve supply line is a flexible hose but all the other lines on the treadle are copper pipe. The question I have is, should that supply line be a flexible hose, or a copper pipe? If you have a 50's era truck, what's on yours The reason I ask ...... when we took the fuel tank out to get repaired, I figured I would take the mounting brackets (J-Brackets) off and clean and paint them and the frame rails. Well, to get to the bolts I had to push the flex hose a bunch and it now has a leak.

My next project is going to be redoing the air brake hoses and converting to spring brakes. We only have service brakes on the rear. When we bought the truck last Nov/Dec, the air lines to the tiller trailer were just cut off. I had to disconnect and plug them so we could charge the air tanks and see if the brakes worked, which they did. Since then, we found leaks in the fuel tank so took it off and sent it out. Well, my thought was, with the tank off, why not clean up the j-brackets holding it and the frame rail. Well, in the process of getting the forward bracket off, I cracked the flex hose supplying the brake treadle valve. Now we have a air leak that I can hear, even with the engine running. Side story, when I was in Mack Trucks quality group doing audits on how the trucks were built, the young auditors would walk up to me and say, "Hey Tom, you have an air leak". They would walk over and eventually find it. Well, I would have to get my ears right next to it to hear it, where they heard it from yards away (note, our building was very quiet). So, if I can hear the leak with the engine running, it's a good leak. I want to replace the compressor discharge hose (101 line to you hard core Mack mechanics), that flex pipe to the treadle and all the rubber brakes hoses to the wheel chambers. Also want to check the check-valves on the air tanks, and the compressor unloader (called the compressor governor now a days) and clean or rebuild if needed. I already started compiling parts. Need to measure hoses and order them. I'm thinking of using the Plastic brake lines to run the park/emer brake chamber lines (I have experience with them, I got while working at the Macungie plant). It's easier to work with and the copper prices are rather high right now. One thing I was wondering, is that treadle supply flex line suppose to be flex or would it have been copper in 1957 ?? All the other line coming out of the treadle are copper.