RS Disposal

16 hours ago, JoeH said:

Sorry to confuse you with yet another turbo model added to the possibilities. Just rechecked, you're running an ENDTB 675 which will be the 237hp variant! Sorry this turbo is for the 283hp variant! 

I do have a 237 endt-675 sitting outside my garage, I'll see if it has a tag on it tomorrow!

I wou8ld really appreciate that

I did get my truck running, but locating a rebuilt turbo is getting impossible.  Does any of you guys hjave a source to try or a source for a seal kit for this 4LE-303 turbo.  This one leaks oil out the exhaust side

Can anybody tell me what the difference is between the 4LE-303 and the 4LE-292 or 4LE-556.  The pictures I am seeing they look similar

2 hours ago, JoeH said:

What's your other truck? The Jake brake on these isn't much use for anything other than shifting, but it makes a world of difference as a shift aid.

My other truck is an Autocar with a Cummins N14. Unfortunately that one has transmission problems that I really should of fixed before now but life just keeps getting in the way.  LOL

9 minutes ago, JoeH said:

New gaskets are a must. This is an ENDTB, so it has Dynatard not jake brake? Does the Dynatard use a riser under the valve cover? The Jake does, so you need 2 valve cover gaskets per head, one for the riser and one for the valve cover. I've never had a Dynatard so I don't know how they're set up.

yes, it is a dynatard. Wish it was the jake brake.  About the only thing it is good for is to help with the shifting of the 5 speed.  No where near a good as the jake on my other truck when coming down canyon.  And no, there is no riser

11 minutes ago, RS Disposal said:

nope, mine is just a 2 valve endtb675

my rocker covers just have 3 bolts that go thru the top with shoulders on the bolt

2 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

Ok, I thought we were talking about 4 valve engines...  Sorry....  

nope, mine is just a 2 valve endtb675

4 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

if you have the old gray rubber gaskets or the black ones that are attached at the business end, , you can re-use them..  you will see how the crush on them makes them just a tick wider at the mating side..  You can flip them over, they will fit snug in the valve cover groove..  the cover bolts are shouldered so they will only go down so far before they stop...  to me this is not a crappy way to do this,  its just using both sides of them..  of course, you have to determine if they are to far gone for re-use...  

I actually have 2 sets of new gaskets

4 hours ago, mechohaulic said:

small center punch make random divots on bottom side of valve covers ; using light film of high tack between valve cover and rubber gasket  held gasket in place, NOT silicone  but high tack(if it's still manufacture). with the small punch marks on cover the gasket didn't have a 100% smooth surface to slide out.

It does look like Permatex does still offer "high tack"

44 minutes ago, terry said:

To many guys try to use silicone and squeezes the gasket out.    terry

Good to know. I was planning on using silicone cause I know my rocker covers were leaking

3 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

for what its worth...  I cant tell you how many heads I have installed on Mack engines..  Its got to be around 100..  even when I do get to see the truck a few months or a year later, I would look for leaks, with the acception of an occasional coolant hose drip,  here and there, all good..  Glad you guys agree..   Jojo

Now if I can just nail down my turbo parts or rebuilt problem

3 minutes ago, terry said:

A agree with joeys system on a few more pounds of torque one time and run, I have seen guys do that without a problem.  Terry

Thanks, I did the 50 to 125 to 200 ft lbs  The retorque spec says 225 so I think that is what I'll do and then just watch for any leaks

12 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

ok..  so I was reluctant to post what I do.. but terry opened the door....    99 percent of the engines  I have rebuilt were leaving the shop never to be seen again...  (hopefully) .....   

I would add 10 lbft to the head bolts...  (E-7/E-Tech)  210-215 lbft.  total torque, with a torque wrench, and knowing how the bolts feel.. ''you can feel it if it is to loose or getting too tight..   I have not had a report of a leak or other issue's with my wicked way  

My thoughts exactly as to how many engines actually go back to the shop for a retorque.  My truck just runs in the city with about 25% fast idle time running PTO. Very little freeway, and at that my truck only really works4 days a week in winter and 2 days a week in summer and even at that an average of 6 hrs is all.  It don't work real hard LOL  Think I might just got with the 225 ft lb spec ot calls for on the retorque

still wasn't able to find what the differences actually are between the 185604, 185605 & 185606 CHRA cartridge so I ordered a NOS 185606 based on numbers cross referencing on this web page for a 185604, http://www.invasionautoproducts.com/19mava4letu11.html .  States this turbo is compatible for my mack number 631GC4101P12.  Well, I think I may of found what the difference is.  The 185606 won't work with my turbo.  Compressor side is much larger so I am thinking the difference is probably different sizes on the compressor side.  Turbine side appears to be the same but didn't go any further. So, if anybody needs a 185606 new CHRA cartridge I will be listing it on ebay for what I paid $350 plus shipping.

On another note, I did get my head back and am in the process of putting it back on.  Question is, how important is the retorquing of the head bolts?  Do I really need to run the truck under a load for 1/2 to 1 hour or just let it run and warm up for 1/2 to 1 hour?  Retorquing will require removing the rocker are assembly again being it covers several of the capscrews.

Fingers crossed everything goes good on reassembly

in my search for a turbo (mack number 631GC4101P12)  I am finding quite a few sites that are listing the turbo if I use 4LE-303.  But there are a few different other numbers that keep coming up.  What is the difference between 185604, 185605 & 185606?  I am totally confused

Still don't havew my head, but machine shop was confident mid week this week.  Was informed by my turbo people that my turbo is bad.  He is having trouble sourcing parts thru his normal vendors.  So I guess I need to start my own search for either a good rebuildable or an already rebuilt turbo.  Any suggestions as to a staring point would be appreciated.

Mack part # - 631GC4101P12

20 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

I'll second that !!    Happy for you..

Pretty sure I might end up having more questions. Machine shop recommends all new parts. He has the valves and guides and the dealer I believe told me all valve train parts were still available so I am headed to the dealer to get them ordered.  Going to take turbo in to make sure there was no damage to it also.

Another quick question.  I didn't notice and valve stem seals when the head was disassembled.  Is this normal for a big diesel engine.  Are there actually seals available for them?

2 minutes ago, terry said:

Don't know about thread locker on the rod bolts, but on head bolts be sure to run a bottom tap in head bolt holes, and blow out with air, and a die on headbolt thread and washers, oil threads as you said.    terry 

Being I didn't have a 5/8th tap or die I did order a new pair to do just that

Still waiting to hear back from the machine shop, but upon looking closely when I took it in he didn't think he would find any cracks.  But magafluxing will tell for sure.  Going to start putting the bottom end back together.  Should I use any type of thread locker on the connecting rods bolts? What about the head bolts? I know on the head it was said to dip into 30w oil and my thinking is thread locker requires clean threads.  Have to braze the inside of the pan where it appears probably from new, or close to, there is a couple of small holes where the center support bracket was spot welded to the pan.  I could never really find where the oil leak was other than assuming that was where it was coming from.  Once the pan was off and cleaned, I could see where the problem was and when I filled the pan with water and let it sit, it confirmed my assumption.  This has definitely been a journey and learning experience for me and this forum was a huge help.  It has just been frustrating in the sourcing of parts, the head mainly.  My biggest mistake was not starting off right to begin with and doing my due diligence of tracking parts myself rather than inquiring into several different shops that if they could find parts I would bring truck in.  Never heard back from any of them.  Guess since my truck wasn't sitting in their shop taking up paying space they didn't really have the incentive to spend alot of time on my behalf.

Also on a previous post I was asking about a small difference in old vs new piston weight, being the new piston was slightly heavier than the old piston.  I had an "awe ha" moment a bit ago that when I weighed the two I failed to take into account the hole and missing material in the old piston.  Pretty sure my weight will be, if not the same, very close to being the same as the old piston before the damage

51 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

dammit... I wish I knew how to rotate the pictures... sorry bud

no problem, I just down load and rotate myself.  Greatly appreciate the info

28 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

This is the book that I got the info from..  It is a copy of a copy of a copy..   

Was there any reference as to tightening sequence.?

10 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

I hope you can enlarge them so you can read them..  

thank you

Another quick question. the old piston had just 2 compression rings and the new piston has 3.  The third just above the oil rings.  I rad that piston weights should all be the same or else it can cause vibration issues.  The new piston is .7 ounces heavier than the old piston with just the top 2 compression rings.  When the third is added the piston is 1.7 ounces heavier.  Is this weight difference going to be a problem and should I leave the third ring off?  Should I maybe remove 1.7 ounces of material from the piston itself?

19 minutes ago, doubleclutchinweasel said:

There are 2 or 3 guys on here regularly who know these things inside and out, and you were talking to one of them above.

They'll steer you right.  Have no fear!

That I have found out and am very appreciative for everyone on this forum

1 hour ago, Joey Mack said:

As far as torque specs.. I have an E-6 book.  I will see what it says and post pictures.. It will be after 4 pm, est.   Jojo

I would very much appreciate that.  Also any words of wisdom you can share as far as anything I should do or be on the look out for as I reassemble this engine.  I will definitely be chasing all threads and bolt holes so I get accurate torque readings