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RS Disposal

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Posts posted by RS Disposal

  1. On 7/24/2024 at 3:54 AM, mrsmackpaul said:

    I wonder if a lining has come loose on a shoe, is in the rivits have loosened 

     

    Paul

    That I would hope not being these brakes are only accessible by removing the drive hub along with the drum.  I will try looing thru the inspection hole on the backing plate to see if I can see anything

  2. On 7/23/2024 at 7:26 PM, Geoff Weeks said:

    450 to 500 ft lbs on inner and outer stud pilot nuts.

    Brake noise is often dirt/ dust.

    thanks, that was what I was thinking might be.  This is a garbage truck and the dump is a very dusty place in the summer

    As far as the torque that is what I was thinking also being everything I found was saying the same.  But everything I found was not saying anything about the older inner and outer lug nut  style bud wheels

  3. Not really sure if this is in the right forum and it isnt necessarily just a Mack trk question.  Lately occasionally my brakes will howl when I slow to a stop.  I call it more of a howl than a squeak.  The brakes were replace about 5,000 miles ago.  No noises until just recently.  Somebody told me this can be cause by dirt in the drums.  Just curious and wondering what the cause is.

    My other question is about lug nut torque.  I can find alot of info dealing with the newer trucks.  But what about the older inner and outer steel wheel torques.  Found a couple of broke studs which I am assuming was caused from being lazy and using a 1 inch rattle gun to tighten rather than a torque wrench. Going to replace all studs on the rear axle

  4. I ended up buying a new Mack radiator. The core dimensions were all the same as the old radiator. But this radiator requires an expansion/overflow tank.  I got an expansion tank off off a dead trk in the yard. From what I was able to see (this trk had a side mounted radiator) the large hose out the bottom goes to the lower radiator hose. My question is the two smaller hoses that go into the top of the tank.  It appears when tracing down the lines on two other trucks with expansion tanks that one line goes before the thermostat and the other goes after the thermostat (upper radiator hose).  Just wanting to double check being my pickup only has one small line into the top of the radiator and google searches have basically been geared towards automotive systems.

  5. Valve lash question.  This engine has the dynatard so it has the hydraulic exhaust valve lash adjuster.  Book say you need a special tool to adjust this.  When I adjusted the lash back when the head was rebuilt, I just made sure I was pressing down on the adjuster as I was taking my measurement.  Is there a different/better way I should be doing this or just making sure the adjuster has downward pressure on it while taking the measurement work?

  6. Just now, mechohaulic said:

    hopefully the brass hammer tapping was being done in the center by bolt hole NOT outer edge 

    it was definitely in the center of the dampener.  put an impact socket into the center of the dampener where the bolt goes so the force was directly in the center.  With the heating of the dampener with the heat gun before it didn't take much to get the dampener on far enough to engage the bolt

    • Like 1
  7. 12 hours ago, mechohaulic said:

    no reason to apologize "for all the questions" . knowledge isn't achieved with out questions. also best to ask then to screw up , resulting in lost $$$$

    This forum for me has been a godsend.  Everybody has been so helpful in my quest and with my learning curve since my breakdown last fall that started my journey.  I know there must be some older mechanics in my area who would know this stuff, but when I was first making inquiries into having a shop do the repair the attitude I got was that nobody really wanted to work on a 40 yr old truck.  Probably because it wasn't sitting in their shop taking up space and knowing that sourcing some parts might be time consuming

    • Like 1
  8. 12 hours ago, mechohaulic said:

    13 min 250 oil ??? new tech . another first  for this  ole man ,   emery cloth -clean both mating surfaces . install dry ..challenge of the day was lining up the mounting holes. they are off set so damper goes on only one way for balancer timing marks, follow up on rear crank seal ==was it going to be changed or this is in frame??

    this repair is in frame

    I was able to get dampener on by using emery cloth to make sure everything was clean and a heat gun.  Was able to get it on far enough with some light tapping with a brass hammer far enough for the bolt to engage the threads and pull it on the rest of the way

    • Like 1
  9. Book says to heat vibration dampener for 13 minute in 250 degree oil.  That I do not have access to. Is there something a little simple for me to do?

    And I agree about the camshaft gear.  My son said he might of been able to get a small oven that they use at his work to heat bearings for the big pumps his company rebuilds.

  10. 1 hour ago, fjh said:

    Yup back it out when installed turn it in till it touches and back it out  half to one turn! Snug the jam nut and your done!

    Thanks, I eventually found the adjustment in the service manual.  Guess I'm getting tired. Been up since 11 pm last nite

     

  11. another quick question. When I opened the gasket set to get ready to put the timing cover on, I noticed lead wire (kinda like thick solder) about maybe 15 inches long.  I don't remember seeing anything like this on disassembly.  Am I missing something or is this possibly used somewhere else in the engine that I haven't been into on this repair.  The set is a front/lower end gasket set from PAI 

  12. The new camshaft from PAI arrived last nite. Only ordered it tuesday afternoon.  Got it in no problem.  Question - Is there anything other than timing marks I should be paying attention to and also what is the accepted procedure to break in the cam?

    • Like 1
  13. 34 minutes ago, Geoff Weeks said:

    My shop has since closed, but they would have "custom made" cores made for my trucks. Yeah several years ago (may be 10) I spent $2150 on a radiator and $1800 on the out of frame rebuild kit! Yep, more in the radiator than the engine. 

    Truck wouldn't be useful without both being done.  Nothing like pulling the Big Horn mts, wide open fully loaded 45 min @ 25 mph and not having to worry about the engine or radiator.

     My shop would take the tanks off, cut the tubes at the end-plate and send it out with the width needed, the core would come back and they would assemble. Also allowed for more tubes (with new end plates) or other changes.

     All it takes is money!😁

    I totally agree about "all it takes is money"  but that is something due to many circumstances I just don't have.  My shop just says they can't get a core to rebuild.  Maybe it is the attitude of shops in my area.  When I first had my breakdown last summer I approached several shops about doing the work.  I was either told that they were interested in working on older trucks or that the parts were all no longer available, thus the truck was dead in the water without a new engine swap.

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