RS Disposal

On 2/12/2024 at 2:56 PM, mechohaulic said:

bolt on wheel studs have 3/4 right hand thread on INSIDE , with dam good eyes you can on occasion sneak in between drum/ shoes to access  the 15/16 or  1 1/8 ? nut holding double sided threaded wheel stud. if left hand press in wheel studs are no longer available ;; then go to jelly roll song and Hail Mary ; I need a Prayer. instead of trying to cut corners; pull the drum better access to nuts holding wheel studs. be really helpful to know why == 1 stud or all need replace?? only one stud broke/ need repair then say f== k it and put shorter inner nut on outer rim and tighten with outer nut. for safety it's not an issue. for law enforcement every thing looks Kosher. Jewish wife .

The 3/4 nut is easily accessible without pulling the drum.  Once wheels are off the nut is just behind the flange on the drive hub.  Only one needs replaced.  not sure why Mack says the right hand is available but not the left hand.  They also state that the 3/4 nut is no longer available, but that I am sure I can get at my local nut and bolt supplier

On 2/9/2024 at 4:09 PM, Joey Mack said:

do you have budd wheels? 

yes I do. The studs have nuts on the back side of the drive hub (are not the press thru type) that don't require the removal of the drum etc to replace

I admit I haven't done any "Googling" on this yet.  It is a pain in the butt on a cell phone, so I thought I would ask the amazing people (who have helped me multiple times over the past 8 months) on this site for a recommendation on a source for these.  The dealer says the left hand thread is no longer available, just the right hand thread. Anybody have a referral to a supplier that might have aftermarket studs?

TIA

Rob

On 1/27/2024 at 11:15 AM, JoeH said:

I.dpnt think so, but just make sure any thermostat you put in has about a 1/8th inch bleeder hole in it to allow it to burp on initial warmup.

the factory thermostat does have a bleed hole that does state either forward or up depending on orientation. the hole is now where near 1/8 th.  Should I enlarge this?

20 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

Maybe you relieved an air pocket, and it improved the cooling.. there are Mack engines without coolant filters.  Anyway, that's good..

Are these engines difficult to get all the air out of the cooling system?  I know my daughter's jeep is a major pain in the butt to get the air purged out

17 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

It's All Good Bud...  Jojo

I want to again thank you for all your insight and help over my journey with the breakdown I had last year. Being a newbie when it came to heavy trk diesel engines, I did learn alot in helping me understand this engine being my goal is to keep the truck in service for a while still.

13 hours ago, JoeH said:

I will add that our DM was overheating running the blower motor for unloading cement.  Swapping over to the fixed fan made a world of difference. Old fan clutch was probably worn out.

This truck is a good worker for you, I'd swap the fan clutch and see if that helps.

The fan clutch was one thing that is on the list of replacing.  Not sure about a fixed fan though being a cab over and the fan just right there next to the seats.  Kinda noisy now when the clutch fan does kick in sounding like a jet engine.  It's just not kicking in when I would think it should.  Thew truck has been a real good worker even though it is an older truck, 1979.  Only has about 145,000 road miles on it, most of which are city miles.  But engine miles are more from running the pto for the compactor

13 hours ago, JoeH said:

Which cabover model do you have? Just curious what radiator it has.  Our MR688 has a monster radiator. Tons of cooling. Probably half again the size of a typical R model, and the same engine. 

I believe the model is MR685.  Dealer lists it as a box truck, but it has a garbage compacter body on it

21 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

the water filter just takes a small sample of water.. I highly doubt the issue is there..  Yes, cleaning/ rodding the radiator can prove well.  Another possiblilty is pump cavitation.  as you go along on this, I recommend you get the 2 pump gaskets, and pull the pump and inspect the impeller and the housing. When looking at the housing, ( the part that stays mounted to the engine) you are looking for pitting and grooves caused by air in the cooling system..  if you find that, you will need a new housing, cavitation will reduce coolant flow enough to raise engine temp. 

I will definitely look at that when I change out the water pump.  Pretty sure the radiator needs rodding out.  I'm just trying to understand this engine as I'm sure you are aware of from my "Needing Mack Head" thread

19 hours ago, JoeH said:

Also what kind of fan clutch do you have? The heat activated type or a fixed fan? If fixed then you're getting all the air flow possible out of the fan, and if  heat activated then it is possible the clutch is worn out and not pulling enough air.  You should hear the fan roar to life when it kicks on. 

My 1980 DM686 has no thermostat installed and has a fixed fan. It's just a yard truck now for unloading our cement trailer. Runs at 1700 rpms for about an hour to unload, and the engine temp stays between 150 and 180.

Side note on thermostats, I always make sure they have pin hole drilled in them to facilitate purging air out of the system. Hate imagining an air pocket trapped against the thermostat and not getting hot enough to open.

I do have the heat activated clutch fan.  I can hear it roar to life at times but not really when I would think it should be.  I have a cab over so I'm right there by the fan.  That was one thing on my list of replacing as I troubleshoot the problem.  Pretty sure my radiator needs to be rodded, but right now my truck can't be down for that length of time so I just watch my temp really close.  Its fine all day long in the valley

22 hours ago, Straydog954 said:

I had the same exact problem with my dump truck. Threw a thermostat at it no luck. Took the radiator off and hosed off the fins on both sides and between CAC and  that solved the problem. Keep in mind I run on and off road and in dusty environments tho may not be your case but ez to check. 

My truck doesn't have a CAC and have washed off the radiator fins.  Was the first thing I thought of. Pretty sure I am going to have to eventually take radiator into the shop.  But was just wondering about how much of the coolant actually flowed thu the water filter.  I do understand the problems a bad thermostat can cause.  Right now just trrying the simple things first one at a time.  I'm one that likes to know what fix works and what doesn't work.

From what I understand these brass radiators do need to be rodded out occasionally, Which is something I am planning on. But I thought I would tackle the simple things first.  In going thru the maintenance history, I don't see where the water filter was last changed.  My question is does all the water flow thru the filter or only a portion of it as the systems circulates the coolant?  Could a plugged filter be a problem?  Going to change that today anyway just so I can log when it was changed.  Also bought a thermostat kit That I will hopefully change out later this week, weather cooperating being I work outdoors, just in case I do have a problematic thermostat.  The truck runs about 190 all day long in the city.  Only gets hot when I climb the canyon, where I do stop and let it cool.

2 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

Does your air compressor get it's air from the manifold? If so, it is taking in boosted air..

compressor intake is before turbo

15 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

Have you unhooked the air compressor intake pipe, to see if the noise is the compressor?

I have thought of that but haven't done it.  I wouldn't think that would cause the boost gauge to flutter

If I had a loose valve seat wouldn't I get a mechanical sound rather that what sounds like a muffled pop pop?  The sound only changes frequency with engine rpm, doesn't really get any louder or softer whether under load or coasting. Truck doesn't appear to have an engine miss and it pulls smooth. Going to, as I stated in my first post, get a clip of the noise and post.  Going to do some trouble shooting, check exhaust temps with an infrared heat gun and also use a stethoscope and see what I can hear and find.  Will pull rocker covers and double check valve lash and see if something there has changed.  Just frustrated I can't seem to locate.

I just recently had to do a major repair on my engine, a 1979 Mack ENDTB 675 which required replacing the turbo (previous topic was "Looking for 1979 Mack head").  Wasn't able to find a direct replacement but this rebuilder stated this one was speced out to be a replacement. The rebuilt turbo has a larger diameter compressor housing (cold side). I have noise in the intake.  The truck seems to be running ok, doesn't appear to be missing, idles smooth.  This truck never had a boost gauge before for a reference comparison, but the boost gauge will flutter depending how far I'm into the throttle.  A quick question, pretty sure this turbo is producing more boost than the original.  From what I have been able to find out, the original was around 15 - 17 lbs boost. This turbo looks like it will boost upwards of around 20 lbs boost. I don't let it run that high before I back out of it.  Is there a possibility that this much boost for THIS engine might be cause some mechanical issues? I know my Cummins N14 runs around 20 lbs when going up the canyon where my trucks work, but that that is a totally different and much larger engine. I will try and upload a video/audio file in the morning with the noise.

If this is the new normal after this engine repair, I'm good with that, because it was a major repair. Rear head rebuilt and #4 piston replaced.  I just don't like noises that I don't remember from before the breakdown.

I am still having this noise in the intake.  The truck seems to be running ok.  A quick question, pretty sure this turbo is producing more boost than the original.  From what I have been able to find out, the original was around 15 - 17 lbs boost. This turbo looks like it will boost upwards of around 20 lbs boost. I don't let it run that high before I back out of it.  Is there a possibility that this much boost for THIS engine might be cause some mechanical issues? I know my Cummins N14 runs around 20 lbs when going up the canyon, that that is a totally different and much larger engine.

I also think I might start a new topic with this issue where as I am no longer looking for a head.

8 hours ago, JoeH said:

We paint our 3 TDC marks with a bright yellow marker and which cylinders are on TDC with each mark.  Saves a lot of headache.  

I definitely marked the TDC marks and now that I know they are there, when I need them again I will know

16 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

As far as the timing marks go,  2 cyls are adjust on each position, but not at the same time.  1&6/2&5/3&4.. but just because you pointed the pointer to 1&6, doesn't mean you are up on #1 . You could be up on #6, and if you adjust #1 then follow the firing order as you rotate the engine, your adjusts will be done 180 degrees out..  are you sure you were up on #1 when you ran the valves, also, do you have 2 pointers on the front, if so, one is for the injection pump timing...  Jojo

Yea, I do understand the concept of the timing of only one cylinder at a time. Before I realized there were marks on the vibration dampener I was bumping the engine over, but it was hard to know for sure if I was on true TDC because alot of the time the engine would spin backwards a bit due to compression.  There is only only one pointer on the front of my engine. The marks were extremely hard to see, but I was able to actually locate them after cleaning off the vibration dampener.  I was able to get to the approximate location of the marks by counting the number of teeth on the flywheel for a full revolution from the #1 TDC mark and dividing by 3 to give me an idea of where to look.  I was then able to get right on by slowly rotating the engine a tooth at a time untill the TDC marks were right on

20 hours ago, mrsmackpaul said:

Compressor???

Does it suck from the intake ?

If you can maintain 1800 revs on a climb your not over loading it at all

Guessing as you suggested, it might be time to rod the radiator out

A dipstick from a automatic transmission works well, no sharp edges

 

Paul 

 

I think when it comes time to do the radiator I will take it into a local shop that does heavy truck radiators.  I don't have the expertise or tools to do the soldering of this brass radiator

another quick question.  The truck was running good up until this point.  I was double checking my valve lash and did find some that were out of spec.  I may of not actually had the Piston at true TDC.  After some clean u9p I was able to find the marks on the vibration dampener at the 120 degree spacing.  Readjusted everything using these marks and the truck seems to be back to normal.  Question is, "why the hiccup"?

Just now, mrsmackpaul said:

White smoke to me is either timing or air in the fuel

People smarter than will have better answers 

Did you have the cam out or timing changed

Maybe something has come loose and shifted 

 

Paul 

 

 

cam was never removed. just the rear head.

And the stinking truck was running so good too.  Was gonna kinda pat myself on the back for a job well done.  Guess I spoke too soon

started the engine with the tube from the turbo removed.  Sounded like a popping noise coming out of the intake manifold.  was thinking thaty for some reason maybe an intake valve wasn't closing all the way.  Took rocker cover off and double check my valve lash.  Some of the exhaust were a little loose..  Now when I start it it smokes (white smoke) really bad and idle rough.  What the crap did I do?

If I tightened the exhaust too tight would that cause the smoking?  So dang hard to gauge TDC and rotating engine 1/4 turn.

Well I forgot my heat gun this morning so that will have to wait

But I had another issue arise just after I came down the canyon with a load on.  I am getting what I can best describe is a pulsating noise coming from the air filter intake.  The boost gauge flutters.  As to how much depends on throttle position.  Haven't had the chance to tilt cab yet and look around.  What might I be looking for? Could a rubber hose come loose or cracked? There are several between the turbo and intake manifold.  The engine seems to still be running smooth. Seems I just can't catch a break and have just entered into my busy season