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Valve lash question.  This engine has the dynatard so it has the hydraulic exhaust valve lash adjuster.  Book say you need a special tool to adjust this.  When I adjusted the lash back when the head was rebuilt, I just made sure I was pressing down on the adjuster as I was taking my measurement.  Is there a different/better way I should be doing this or just making sure the adjuster has downward pressure on it while taking the measurement work?

Sanitation engineer

Just now, mechohaulic said:

hopefully the brass hammer tapping was being done in the center by bolt hole NOT outer edge 

it was definitely in the center of the dampener.  put an impact socket into the center of the dampener where the bolt goes so the force was directly in the center.  With the heating of the dampener with the heat gun before it didn't take much to get the dampener on far enough to engage the bolt

12 hours ago, mechohaulic said:

no reason to apologize "for all the questions" . knowledge isn't achieved with out questions. also best to ask then to screw up , resulting in lost $$$$

This forum for me has been a godsend.  Everybody has been so helpful in my quest and with my learning curve since my breakdown last fall that started my journey.  I know there must be some older mechanics in my area who would know this stuff, but when I was first making inquiries into having a shop do the repair the attitude I got was that nobody really wanted to work on a 40 yr old truck.  Probably because it wasn't sitting in their shop taking up space and knowing that sourcing some parts might be time consuming

12 hours ago, mechohaulic said:

13 min 250 oil ??? new tech . another first  for this  ole man ,   emery cloth -clean both mating surfaces . install dry ..challenge of the day was lining up the mounting holes. they are off set so damper goes on only one way for balancer timing marks, follow up on rear crank seal ==was it going to be changed or this is in frame??

this repair is in frame

I was able to get dampener on by using emery cloth to make sure everything was clean and a heat gun.  Was able to get it on far enough with some light tapping with a brass hammer far enough for the bolt to engage the threads and pull it on the rest of the way

Just now, fjh said:

Torch and a heat gun ! I have put these on cold !

A heat gun I do have,  Thanks

Book says to heat vibration dampener for 13 minute in 250 degree oil.  That I do not have access to. Is there something a little simple for me to do?

And I agree about the camshaft gear.  My son said he might of been able to get a small oven that they use at his work to heat bearings for the big pumps his company rebuilds.

1 hour ago, fjh said:

Yup back it out when installed turn it in till it touches and back it out  half to one turn! Snug the jam nut and your done!

Thanks, I eventually found the adjustment in the service manual.  Guess I'm getting tired. Been up since 11 pm last nite

Sorry about all the questions, but should I mess with the end play adjustment on the timing cover.  have yet to find in the service manual where this is addressed.  Maybe I'm just blind  LOL

21 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

thats the old lead seal, did the kit have the metal cased rubber seal?

the only metal cased rubber seal was the vibration dampener

another quick question. When I opened the gasket set to get ready to put the timing cover on, I noticed lead wire (kinda like thick solder) about maybe 15 inches long.  I don't remember seeing anything like this on disassembly.  Am I missing something or is this possibly used somewhere else in the engine that I haven't been into on this repair.  The set is a front/lower end gasket set from PAI 

The new camshaft from PAI arrived last nite. Only ordered it tuesday afternoon.  Got it in no problem.  Question - Is there anything other than timing marks I should be paying attention to and also what is the accepted procedure to break in the cam?

1 hour ago, JoeH said:

Can you post a picture of your old radiator?

34 minutes ago, Geoff Weeks said:

My shop has since closed, but they would have "custom made" cores made for my trucks. Yeah several years ago (may be 10) I spent $2150 on a radiator and $1800 on the out of frame rebuild kit! Yep, more in the radiator than the engine. 

Truck wouldn't be useful without both being done.  Nothing like pulling the Big Horn mts, wide open fully loaded 45 min @ 25 mph and not having to worry about the engine or radiator.

 My shop would take the tanks off, cut the tubes at the end-plate and send it out with the width needed, the core would come back and they would assemble. Also allowed for more tubes (with new end plates) or other changes.

 All it takes is money!😁

I totally agree about "all it takes is money"  but that is something due to many circumstances I just don't have.  My shop just says they can't get a core to rebuild.  Maybe it is the attitude of shops in my area.  When I first had my breakdown last summer I approached several shops about doing the work.  I was either told that they were interested in working on older trucks or that the parts were all no longer available, thus the truck was dead in the water without a new engine swap.

5 hours ago, JoeH said:

Does that radiator pass a pressure test?

NOPE, not even close  LOL

Just now, Joey Mack said:

ok... thanks,,  Sure hope the new cam is what you need, jojo

Well  according to those who are suppose to know this stuff, it is.  Guess I'll find out tomorrow afternoon

56 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

Just curious?? How do you install a cam if the 7 th journal is larger? How could it start in the block?  I have only done a couple of these 673-675's, so i dont have a lot knowledge.

The 7th isn't larger than the rest of the journals.  They are all the same size.  The cam for my engine has a smaller diameter 7 th journal.  The book just describes the cam as a larger diameter 7th journal

2 hours ago, The Heinz said:

Took a little bit to figure this out, but as long as an ENDT675 is the same as what Impact says is ENDTB675, you have the correct camshaft part number, and PAI does show stock of their version ECM-9002. 

This is also the oldest Mack I've searched parts for. 

I ordered the camshaft that PAI shows for the Mack # 454GC568B  UPS says I should have it tomorrow. (WOW, only ordered it yesterday afternoon)  The camshaft I got that the original description saying it was for the ENDT 673, 675 & 676 was supposedly 454GC580.  It has the larger diameter 7th journal. (Sealed Power CS-851)  As near as I could tell other than that the camshafts are the same.  Maybe that's the difference between a dynatard engine and a non dynatard engine

27 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

Is there 2 zeros in the last 6 of the VIN?

My truck being older, 1979, and with a brass radiator, my local "go to shop" for heavy truck radiators says he has been able to locate a viable core to rebuild my radiator.  He said if he did locate one it would be pretty spendy and recommended I just replace while radiator. As you can see from the pic mine is pretty dead.  My question is, I was able to pickup a Mack heavy duty truck radiator where the core dimensions are the same as the one out of the truck.  Mounts different, but I have no problem fabricating a new mounting bracket.  This radiator does not have the cap in the upper tank.  Should I put an inline radiator fill in the upper hose or should I add an auxiliary overflow tank the way my other two trucks are.  This truck never had one.

19 hours ago, The Heinz said:

I believe yours is "new" enough Impact would have info on it. I've looked up a couple of E6's before. Outside that I don't think I have anything else to look up. I'd need the old part number your truck had or your truck's VIN.

Also, I'm extremely unreliable this week. Running solo in the shop so I don't have any downtime to check this forum out before I leave for the day. 

19 hours ago, The Heinz said:

I believe yours is "new" enough Impact would have info on it. I've looked up a couple of E6's before. Outside that I don't think I have anything else to look up. I'd need the old part number your truck had or your truck's VIN.

Also, I'm extremely unreliable this week. Running solo in the shop so I don't have any downtime to check this forum out before I leave for the day. 

The part number my Mack guy at the dealer gave me was 454GC568B which according to PAI they had several in warehouses across the US  Guess I'll see when I get the cam.  Also just a FYI my VIN is MR685P1202.  All the newer guys around tell me that isn't a good heavy truck VIN, hench why I just go to the dealer.

Seems I REALLY can't catch a break on this engine. Seems the camshaft I picked up last winter has a lrger journal on the rear than the one out of the engine.  My bad, I didn't go to the dealer and get a part number to cross reference.  This one showed 454GC580.  Guess I make a trip to dealer and get a part number before i start looking

52 minutes ago, mechohaulic said:

cam/ lifters install may be a no brainer :: based on experience the cam install may be a challenge if your doing it yourself.  plenty of lube, first couple of ports not bad, as the cam goes in further balancing it straight in to journals is an experience. it tends to wobble thus hitting the lifters knocking them out of place. have done EVERY scenario= load from front. or install part way then go under reaching up ( one reason my back is done) gliding cam in with a guarantee to pinch fingers. best advice is get a helper that has half knowledge of mechanics or at least follow directions.  having helper WATCH YOUR FINGERS cam works like a meat slicer. repeat these words """"HELPER PLEASE GO SLOW AND LISTEN TO ME when to push cam .

I do have a son who is also mechanically inclined that I taught auto and light truck mechanics to.  Albeit per 1980"s  but some stuff doesn't change.  Also have a son in law who has his own truck that does alot of his own work,  so I think I am good for a GOOD helper when it comes time.

Today is cleaning parts day, worst part, at least for me, in any auto/truck job

1 hour ago, mechohaulic said:

you  DID NOT  loosen the four bolts holding the gear to pump?? NO  of course not. LOL  . making double/ triple sure the keyway stays in place. a very clean socket ;3/4 drive just large enough to clear shaft threads works. light tapping continuing to watch shaft key stays in place not rotating out of key slot. slight tapping till enough threads show. tap/tighten will bring drive gear into place.

No , I DID NOT loosen those 4 bolts.  I