Gorilla

works out cheaper to use distilled water with concentrate

would you guys be concerned about the state of the radiator or heat exchanged ? Im building the truck to do long runs and it gets hot here (40+ degrees celcius) and concerns are running in my mind as to weather to just replace the radiator and heat exchanger?

Hi Everybody, Previous owner ran water rather then coolant and its a nice rusty hue and i am planning on doing a flush of the cooling system consisting of: *drain water out *put in fresh water, run engine then drop again after 20 minutes *if dirty water coming out then repeat previous process *if clean then put in coolant system flush with fresh water and follow instructions *flush system out of with fresh water *put in distilled water to flush out all/most of the fresh water and run engine for a 20 minutes *Put coolant concentrate mixed to highest level with distilled water This will be fine BUT i have a concern and that is the heat exhanger tube for the oil, i know they can fail and have been toying with the idea of removing it and cleaning it before i put in fresh coolant. Also tossing up taking the radiator to a radiotor place to get it reconditioned as a precaution. What is everybodies thoughts? Thank you in Advance, Chris

NEVER EVER run a dpf emulator EVER, inevitably this will cause your dpf to block up but potentially will kill your engine as the restriction in the exhaust will grow and the compute wont be able to stop it (as normally blockages introduce a dpf burn off cycle). I hate DPFs and EGRS and whoever inventem them is a total POS but the law is the law and sadly it is always possible to tell the truck was deleted regardless how well it was done, sure you may get away with it on a car BUT commercial vehicles are different. The whole emissions rubbish is the main reason i bought a pre egr and pre dpf truck and am rebuilding it to put back into work..... do the same, its not as expensive as it seems and you can always put a new cab onto an old frame and have the best of both worlds!!!

over here paid nearly 400 usd or all this stuff, i must make a contact in the USA that ships to australia, here the australia tax is out of control.

Yeh price is much higher then in the USA. Ended up getting them now, and original mack bolts as were oddly reasonably cheap and very nice quality.

I got some PAI studs which are treaded only part of the way but am finding getting the nuts nearly impossible after market and was wondering about using stainless lock nut (not nylon but all stainless locking bit) and a thick stainless washer as price is 1/20th of the copper nuts and from what i have read the copper is only there to stop corossion. I am tossing up loctite 272 or Permatex 59235 high temperature thread sealant. The copper nuts are over 40 australian dollars each from the dealer and paying 500 bucks for 12 nuts seems like highway robbery to me.

Hey everybody, Today i took the turbo off as im getting it rebuilt with new bearings as it showing signs of wear and better to catch it early before you have to replace housings. Anyways rear bottom exhaust stud was wet around it with oil so i figure time to address this BUT need some advice. Best part is when i went to feel what sort of oil it was on my fingers i was able to unbolt the stud with my fingers which kinda made me think special thoughts ;). Would some moron who worked on the truck not bolt it up properly or am i looking at a bigger problem? the thread felt find when i bolted it in and no evidence of damage? Im intending on replacing the exhaust gasket, do i need to change the bolts and all the studs while im at it? What is the best method to stop the studs leaking oil? Do i need to put new bolts for the turbo too? (when i reinstall it) Also have build up off oil on the rear of the motor, are these motors known to do sump gaskets ? Anybody know a good place to get the bits in melbourne australia? or at least australia?

Try getting parts for a Mack quantum in Australia, its almost black magic to find a part

Nothing cooler then a girl who knows her stuff mechanically on the condition and that is she doesnt have blue hair and isnt one of these modern so called feminists.

Im 48 and even in my age group very rare you meet a real man, most seem to be "special". I was working on a building site driving a tipper and i was shocked how all the so called "truckers" put up with abuse from excavator drivers etc... soon after i sold my tipper and now building a mack e7 quantum..... and im doing all the work myself.

how would i test the shuttle valve?

E7 etech 470hp.

First time ive become aware of coolant filters (sorry only mainly worked on cars), but will look into it 100%...... I like the idea for sure. Its insane how badly people maintain their trucks (obviously not talking all but most).... one of the main reasons i got my own truck is because i was so fed up with the badly maintained rubbish they told me to drive.

Hi everybody, what would the coolant capacity be on a mack quantum or ch?

Hi everybody, Previous owner ran water and its a really tasty rust color (sarcasm) anyway i need some advice as to whats the best thing to use to clean it out before i put in coolant? I dont want to use nasty chemicals if possible. Also anybody with good ideas to clean out the coolant tank? i usually take them off and flush them with hot laundry detergent and srub them with a bootle brush then flush for as long as i cannot smell laundry powder.

Gonna go trough the whole air system with a fine tooth comb, being reasonably new to working on trucks im still learning how the air systems work but im 100% anti push on air fitting, they all suck, they suck and they are all gonna be swapped for brass ones that bolt together that dont suck Cab is fine, and its eaton diffs on hendrickson hair...only problem i have had was the 24v to 12v converter which was giving out a very "special" 20v!!! so i replaced it with a high end chinese one for $100 vs the original one for over 2k!!! and vualla all is perfect.

Im heading to the truck right now, will check it out what you said and take some pics too. Come to mind i have a pretty big air leak that i am next to address on a spin on air filter approximately 1 meter behind the gearbox, could this have something to do with it?

Driving along at 100km/hr, went over some bumps and the trucks revs went high and i realized the truck by itself had split down a gear, i tried to move the splitter switch back and forward and nothing happend so i pulled over and checked if any lines had come lose or anything like that but nope all seemed good. So i took off and all went well and about 15-20 minutes down the road it did exactly the same thing. Again i stopped and went through the gears and all went well after that for the next 20 minutes and i got to my destination (new location to finish working on the truck before i put it in service) Does anybody know where i should start with my investigation? I know i have some air leaks which i will address before i drive it again but pressure seems to be keeping up on the gauge and i am not getting any low pressure errors.

Very cool that your in Russia, im Polish and seriously considering moving Russia or Belarus as Australia is insane in so many ways and getting worse.... as an example a few months ago i got a letter from the local council that if i dont remove my truck from my property they will tow it away and fine me 900 dollars on top of the towing costs !!! WTF i own the fkn house. Anything stupid like that in Russia? But thats not just it, it goes far far deeper and when i looked at returning to Poland i found it have become very left wing america and getting worse by the day so i thought what brotherly slavic country wont go this direction and thus Russia or Belarus. Damn i love some of the new Russian trucks, wish we had the here.

Yeh Volmackud are scum of the earth, total filthbags..... i dont think i will contact them again if i can help it. As for gearing i have done number crunching and this is how i see it: *E7 develops peak torque from about 1400rpm and peak hp around 1600 with 90% peak hp around the 1470rpm (which is what im aiming at). *On the freeway the motor is screaming at 100km/hr and i found myself looking for a another gear (or two) and this is not the first mack i drove. *I will be towing singles long distance where this truck was built for heavy loads local, huge difference 300rpm makes in fuel consumption thus profit. *If i approach a hill i can always split it to 17th gear and this gives me near identical rpm to what 18th was with the 4.65 gears *I will be driving mostly level ground with some hills but nothing huge Am i missing the point? some say im crazy while others agree that if im happy to gear down in a steep hill then this will work to improve fuel efficiency. Cheers, Chris

Here is a fun little fact, Mack in australia have gone full retard.......yep they have and this is why i say it: As i was sorting out the wiring as morons who owned the truck previously really did a number on it i found the morons had connected the solenoid/relay from under the battery box and hot wired everything which is all sorts of stupid but ok. Found the solenoid/relay was faulty (required excessive current to activate) so called Mack, only to not be even called back by first dealer after two days (yay for bad service) and second dealer gave me a price of $500 australian buckeroos!!! WTF $500 bucks for a fkn solenoid/relay?? Are they smoking crack? So i ordered very nice one from a company that supplies the mining industry for $120 bucks delivered, went full overkill as Mack refused to tell me the amp rating .. this one is rated at 200amps continous duty with a 700amp surge rating which should suffice as the power wire looks to be rated at maybe 150 amps. Seriously wtf $500 bucks?

Honestly dont know, but suspect they had the same situation that the quantums had i.e. early models were on renault chassis with e7 engines, later models were mack ch chassis with e7 engines and even later models were mack ch chassis with ISX engines........ i believe this has something to do with emission regulations and the e7 not being able to satisfy the masters (government) so they gave the truck AIDS (isx). In a few years i plan on rebuilding a Magnum with the ch chassis and e7 engine as while rebuilding the Quantum it hit me i should have gone for the more spacious Magnum. But still love the Quantum.....im nearing completion to sorting out the wiring, putting TPMS in, adding amp and custome 6x9 brackets for rear, modifying the radio controls on the stalk to also pick up and hang up phone, custom stereo etc etc. Then i will be adding a pre-oiller (aircraft continous duty type), rebuilding the turbo and sorting the rear main seal out (but still have to make a jig to pull the transmission back to get to it.

Hey Everybody, Didnt post much as was way too busy.... but the Mack Quantum i got a few years ago is nearing completion. Insane amount of work from respraying and re-aligning panels, doors etc all the way to rewiring internal multiple 24 to 12v converters into single one.... to fully sound proofing her.... to custom made mirror brackets so both sides have a original looking convex mirror.... to wiring in a nice stereo with custom 6x9 in the back with amp and a nice android auto screen so ill get maps off the phone on a 12" screen Everything was color coded including the door handles which i think looks mint, every deteriorated external plastic was repaired, and properly painted and they look like new (even if i say so myself) and i wont have to worry about the fkn oxidisation anymore. Have a near new 5th wheel im about to fit as my ball race piece of garbage is just that and about to change the diff ratio to better suit long range driving (from 4.65 to 3.7). Also all lights bar headlights and reading lights are led and all original rubber floor mat is in the tip and will be replaced with nice marine carpet after another layer of sound proofing. Also bed modified so no longer has factory flaw of rubbing on the drivers seat while driving as i like my seat pushed back..... ah well its a little more narrow in the end but who cares. Also sorted out wiring under the battery box which has all the converters etc (dont ask me how insanely bad it was fkd around with) and am stuck on how to connect the abs plug as its not straight forward and there are no manuals for the mack quantum (yay all hail the unholy union of 24v renault and a mack ch but in its defence its the later model with ch rails and rides sublime while being a truck mack ch in its driveline inc e7 470hp and Road Ranger 18 speed). Back to the abs plug, 3 wires come of of it, one thick with a large hoop (as it would be ground or 12v/24v?) and two plug in square connectors........... what makes me scratch my head is the abs plug has 7 connectors on it and cannot for the life of me figure out why in fk only 3 wires coming out plus i dont think my truck has abs although i could be wrong but i dont think so. Is this plug in some way designed to plug into the trailer and tell it to fk off your being towed by a non abs truck? Still stuck why 1 thick wire and two thin ones....... the thick wire goes to to pins on the connector btw so really 4 pins are connected in theory. Here are some pics of the girl, if you look at my past posts you will see what i started with........different truck

Yeh Its interesting as the load boards are garbage and cant find a broker to save myself so i think your right. Im in melbourne if that makes a difference and am aware most want late model trucks towing their stuff but im going above and beyond to make my truck look as modern as possible and clean white paint with no markings and everything including door handles painted to match so will stand out looking much newer. When i was operating for a reefer mob i noticed at woolworths total shitheaps towing their stuff (cough kenworth 104 cough) that werent in what id call good condition in any way so figure work is there.....also a lot of older 2000ish model volvos. Yeh i figure ill contact the mobs i would tow their trailers and see but yeh. Thanks for getting back to me.