Gorilla

Actually it is a valid comparison. Everything is bigger and thats about it. New trucks dont to a million km without a rebuild yet i know of cars with a million km still going strong, my old landrover was never rebuilt and all original including alternator with 540,000km. As for the 26si, thats a brushless alternator so it should pretty much never fail. An electric motor is an electric motor, there are better and worse quality ones......

how often has a electric fan failed on the many cars i have owned in many years? ZERO is the number, how many times has a clutch fan failed? quite a few, now there is air operated fans that are prone to leak.

wait WHAT? are you kidding me? it takes 25 amps, does 10,000cfm which is about right, my 2000cfm fan on my car has a 10 amp fuse at 12v.

mine was shocking thus spent a few weeks replacing all push on fittings with compression ones plus all joiners removed and new lines run. I just got the price on the electric fan and lets just say im going to rebuild my air clutch

nobody will give you factory specs and im not entirely sure they bothered to test them, but the 10,000cfm fan is overkill for sure as system tested on a baja truck in the desert

Sorry i ment cca not ah, my bad. As for the electric fan it will power on as required and takes 25amps at 24volts while my alternator is 100amps at 24 volts therefore ample headroom, it wont run 100% of the time and will be actuated by the same computer signal the horton fan was actuated by but rather then pneumatic it will be electric. Mainstream manufacturers do what is cheap not what is best, its about providing a product just good enough to pass the warranty period at minimum cost, a clutch fan is much cheaper to make.

I understand nothing is free, and yes it goes at a single speed irrespective of the engine or alternator output..... thing is i have four 920ah batteries so that will buffer it. As for the electric fan failing, i know it can happen but these fans are made in usa and brushes are easily replaceable while its on the truck and short of that nothing really can go wrong unless i abuse it (which i wont). Reason im looking this way is that i believe i have a horton air operated clutch and it needs a seal kit put through it as is leaking, i cannot understand how it can be 100% leak proof as its a rotating assembly so it must leak by its nature and i hate air leaks.

when a new plastic tank is 300 bucks........ i figured id try.

Update: one radiator hose was recoverable, rest were too close to failure so replacement, given the amount of crud i found in the system i am tomorrow taking the radiator into a radiator specialist and most likely going to rebuild it with new core and while im at it will add a few more cores as my view is can never have too much cooling capacity. Also noticed the truck has a pneumatically activated radiator fan.......... so looking into converting to a 24v electric fan, not a fan of engine driven fans, they rob power, prone to failure and never had an electric one fail in any application yet. Found one that does 10,000cfm which i suspect is ample for the application, waiting on the company to get back to me, their made in USA....... mob is called "electric fan engineering" image of a comparison to a standard thermo fan

On a really rusty looking coolant reservoir/ plastic overflow bottle i used the following: vinager, bleech, CLR (worst crap ive ever used i must note), boiling water, dish washing detergent, and baking soda two types of laundry powder and can report vinegar was the best, CLR was by far the worst and im pretty sure boiling water did more. Trick i found was to use cat littler (non clumping type) into to container an shake it about which did losen the crud quite a bit but 30 flushes and about 6 hours and i must say ive only got to the point i can make out the water level without taking the cap off............win? Not sure.

Progress is slow but stainless pipe really does bling it up a bit (its black ceramic coated on the end as muffler place could not get a stainless end but i think it looks cool)

I got it done by a local turbo rebuilder, very reputable company and excellent reputation. Been around for donkeys years so fingers crossed. Not a chain but a family business.

my understanding too, to be honest i hope it does something for the temps but mainly im a stickler and i hate rust

correct

not temp resistant paint brother, its all black ceramic coating

I have worked in computers since i was 14 or so, loved it then learned to hate it and now refuse to work in it due to the bunch that are imported with their many degrees yet zero knowledge and lots of lies (we all know who im talking about which says a lot now doesnt it)!!. Got into truck driving but found the companies/owners had no clue about trucks (keep in mind im a petrol head but i was fairly new with trucks at this point and i knew much more then they did) and the unroadworthy garbage they gave me to drive made my skin crawl. I do my own work and o boy do i get surprises from the "special" so called "mechanics" who previously worked on my truck. Old saying "Hard times make strong men, strong men make easy times, easy times make weak men, weak men make hard times"...........i was not born soft like most these days.

Know its an old post but if your in melbourne i might be able to help you out, im fairly new with the quantums but having a IT background nothing about this truck scares me and would love to help as this might help me with mine one day. Also have some very cool diagnostic equipment

Fitted the rebuilt Turbo with ceramic coated exhaust manifold and turbo hot side, new studs, new bolts and painted the rocker covers and jakes Tomorrow stainless exhaust going on :)

Dziękuję bracie

Its actually really nice and roomy for the driver and the shifter is shaft operated, most importantly is there is plenty of leg room where i find most american trucks dont (mack is the exception)......dont get me started on the Kenworth SAR, i was getting leg cramps in it!!!

It was the time Volvo owned Mack and Renault, they needed a cabover body so they used the Renault Premium DCI body which worked well BUT there is a twist. There were three variants from my understanding and i picked the best of the bunch. YES its australia only models and there are flaws in its implementation that i am addressing such as the cabin is 24v while the engine is 12v so they put voltage converters under the battery box which is behind the engine. I have since replaced the rubbish australian made converters that were giving me 20v for whatever reason with high end chinese ones (i know you may laugh but you can get high end stuff in china and these give a very clean 13.8v) and relocated it under the bed in the cabin where the ECU for the engine sits and there is ample room (thus put my amp, fuse boxes for accessories and added relay for converter which switches on with the 24v ignition switch). The australian converters from a company called "redarc" which were used originally have a really good reputation but the company told me they only keep wiring diagrams for current models (not kidding, my jaw dropped but the staff did give me info which wires did what but sadly that turned out to be wrong !!!), whereas the chinese company provides wiring diagrams for the old models on their website (as they should) and costs 1/12th the price of the australian brand!!! Sadly i would like to use Australian products but 12 times the price while not providing wiring diagrams is a joke and i have worked for chinese companies in electronics and they are awesome with technical diagrams and i am not surprised they are doing so well. Variants: 1. Early ones had Renault frame (plus axles it seems and tanks etc), but mack e7 engine, this was troublesome as the frame was narrower and was insanely bad to get to the air pump (this is where people say the issues with quantums being hard to work on comes from). 2. Mid version (my model) had Mack CH everything under the cabin so essentially its a CH with e7, eaton Road ranger etc and only difference is you need to lift the cabin to work on it which is no biggie as come with both hand and electric cab lift. 3. Last version same as mid version but with an ISX engine rather then the e7 (i suspect to meet polluton requirements), also one i avoided in the search as i wanted the mighty e7.

Hey Everybody, Here are some pics, lots of work gone in, waiting on new square tanks, still to fit nearly new 5th wheel and finishing up converting all the air fittings to compression fittings, tomorrow fitting rebuilt turbo, stainless exhaust, ceramic coated exhaust manifold and figure out why the wires are cut to the electric cab tilt pump (been using manual as didnt realize it had a electric one). Interior is multi layered sound proofing and marine carpet.

Going to look into it today, although i dont have overheating problems just coolant is either really old and rusty or its water and im not game to taste it and see if it is coolant hahaha. Plan is to put a camera into the radiator once ive cleaned it to see what its like inside and then decide weather to replace the radiator. Truck is not overheating as such, more so preventative maintenence.

Ill take some pics tomorrow when im at the truck, very little information online on the Quantum and its unique to both renault and macks so fun times hahaha ;)

if it does not have one can you retrofit them to the etech?