Gorilla

Funny you would say that, my truck was used for concrete panel haulage before i bought it. Last job i was driving trucks with Teflon plates the 5th wheels were getting covered in grease and i did not notice an issue. Im in a very steep learning curve as i got out of IT(computers) a few years ago, was driving tippers and tautliners in heavy rigids and only drove Big rigs in the last year. Im still in two minds of which way to go as i will be driving another companies trailers and they will have grease on them 100% and im not going to clean up a trailer every morning i pick up a new one (as trailers are pre loaded and waiting).

Worked for a dozen companies and nobody told me about ballrace turntables hahahaha, no kidding.

I can get a whole new ballrace assembly at a fairly reasonable price (around 1-1.2k aud), i dont think i can fix the existing one due to the nature of the damage.

Hi Paul, Thanks for the input and im leaning that way but my understanding is that the ball race type needs to be hooked up to a trailer that has the wedge behind the pin, and as i will be towing another companies trailers im pretty sure they dont have the wedge. So without the wedge ive read you hack to lock the ball race turntable into position so it doesnt move in which case it behaves like a normal fixed turntable which 1. negates having a ball race turntable and 2. is not a good idea s this is not good for the ball bearings. Of course if i had my own trailer i would make sure i have the wedge as it makes sense but alas here we are. Chris

Hi Everyone, I am relatively new to the truck ownership game and need some advice. Specifically i found the truck i purchased had a ballrace turntable which was locked into place for many years (which i have read is bad for a ballrace turntable). It was seized in place and spent quite a few hours with wd40, high pressure washer and degreaser (and repeat with obviously wd40 at the end), i got it unseized. Thing is its now really "crunchy" while turning to safe to say the bearings are not in the best of shape and ultimately not servicable. Question i have is what are your thoughts on replacing the ball race or replacing the 5th wheel for one that has a teflon plate? Essentially i know their goal is the same of making the trailer connection to be easier to turn and put less stress on the components. Which way should i go and why? Thank you in advance, Chris

Oh yes im going to make sure of the compatibility of the 462 and 461 although all the parts ive seen listed for the 462 list the 461,462 and 463 as that part fitting thus my assumption that its just a different model number for the same part (maybe different stamp to coincide with truck manufacturer?). HRM so 46 was not a common diff? Strange this model mack would come with it factory. As for shipping, yeh ive contacted a few mobs and will see what they come back with. Do you know of any place you could recommend? I check on air freight and it would still be much cheaper then getting one local.

That notch seems like nothing problematic if you have a grinder Been doing a lot of thinking and given i have 18 speeds i really see no point of a two speed differential. Do you guys have a lead as to who i can buy the diffs centers in the usa? just want some 3.7 462/461 with power divider, obviously one ds p and one rs Also had a good look at whats involved in changing the diff centre and have decided im gonna do it myself.

Hi Everybody, Any recommendations as to anywhere i can go to get these diffs in america? In Australia i was quoted insane prices so i figure ill be better off paying the freight. I notice you have DS461P and RS461 diffs in the USA, are they the same as the DS462P and RS462? Also id be interested in really healthy ones but ratio must be 3.7 and have power divider installed. Cheers, Chris

Just realized, my truck will effectively be a 36 speed with a 2 speed diff hahahahaha

your fairly clear, i think you misunderstood me, as im thinking weather i can find some two speed 461 housings in the right ratio with good ring and pinion and pay a diff mob to throw a rebuild kit through it then fit it to my truck. Part of the cost will be offset as ill sell my original diffs which are in good condition. Sadly i spoke with a diff rebuilding place today and for two reco diffs to change over they wanted 15k aud inc fitting but to me that sounds insane given my cores are not in bad condition and all i want is a ratio swap. Tomorrow ill call the other diff builder i spoke to and see if he believes the 461 two speed carrier will go into my axle, if it does then the hunt will begin. Part of me is thinking i can swap the diff centers myself because ive done axles and axle bearings myself without a problem and i can weld up a A frame or even use my engine hoist. Doesnt seem any more difficult then single handedly doing a gearbox swap on a 4wd with a transfer case (which ive done without problem). In Australia the labor charges are crazy stupid expensive and a lot of truckies go broke because of them......i do most of my own work but dont want to screw around with shims and alignments in building diff centres because there is a bit of black magic that happens there that you cant learn without years of experience.

Interesting, im under the impression that the 462 is a newer revision of the 461 as the pinions etc are the same and the rebuild kits suit 461,462 and 463. So yeh ill speak to a rebuild place and see what they think as maybe it might not even cost more as a rebuild kit is the same and instead of getting new ratios installed ill just put a rebuild kit through it before i get it installed This would give me the best of both worlds btw what ratios are you running? and what motor + whats your gearbox final drive ratios

HRM, two speed axles you say, this is interesting. I am running RS462 diffs with 4.56 ratios and am wondering what diff centre i could replace it with that will give me say 3.7 + 4.56 ratios? or 3.7 +5.2 or anything that way. Would be VERY cool having best of both worlds. Do you have any info on this? I want to retain the power divider but could live without lockers. Spoke to one diff place today and alas its australia so they didnt even attempt to use lube when they quoted me and also told me im stupid for going that low in gearing, spoke to another diff place and explained what im doing and they reakon it will work. Now where do i find these two speed diff centres, i want some BAD!

I had a good look at the frame today and alas i do not believe that it is a Renault frame, it is a straight frame and the gap between the compressor and frame is approximately inch and a half or more so definately not like in the pics. Im waiting for some money to come in so started withe the "free" jobs and alas ripped out all the interior covers and removed a old cd stacker controller and wires, got the cb and uhf working, fixed the foot air operated steering wheel adjustment but not putting it all together till I get the new stereo and will upgrade to the current model renault remote .....ill show you pics, its a really cool little joystick that controls your audio right behind the steering wheel that you can do almost everything on your stereo without removing your hands from the wheel and even answer calls on the new model which will integrate into the pioneer stereo ill fit . Im a bit of a french car nut So sorry no pics of interior although will lift cab in the next few days and show you the rest after i give the chassis+engine a good wash and detail as i hate working on dirty engines

Im in melbournes western side (sunbury) so closest place to me is cmv and so far they have been shocking to deal with including promising they would call back about something and never doing it, refusing to sell me a repair manual and the prices, oh the prices......it has been cheaper to buy in the USA and pay the crazy air freight prices and most of the time quicker!!! (have a ch mack that i was building during lockdown to keep my sanity but then decided i hate tipper work so she will be up for sale soon).

Hey Everybody, Today i drove my mack quantum for the first time and was surprised at how high it was revving in top gear (1700rpm). It has 4.56 eaton diffs and a .73 overdrive. I was looking at peoples opinions given it has both .86 and .73 overdrives what would your thoughts be for me to change the gearing on the diffs to 3.73? In 18th gear (.73 overdrive) it will give me 1383 rpm and in 17th gear (.86 overdrive) it will give me 1630rpm and in 16th gear (1:1) it will give me 1895rpm This is all calculated at the maximum allowed speed in australia for trucks which is 100km/hr The way i see it is on a nice level road it will give me the best fuel efficiency as it will be thick in the maximum torque range. On inclines i can split it to 17th gear which will kick me near the maximum hp and still within beefy torque values Im tossing up doing this as i want to maximise my fuel efficiency and i am going to get the diffs sorted as i want to fit lockers and cross locks anyway so essentially two birds one stone. Any thoughts? Thanking you in advance, Chris

So far from what ive gathered its an interesting beast, all mechanicals seem to be mack BUT everything in the cabin is Renault including the badge on the steering wheel. Interestingly she has a 24 volt starter!!!! yet 1/2 the stuff on the electric stuff is 12v and half is 24v (done a lot of reading), and tomorrow ill know more as my cb, uhf and cd stacker arent working so im going balls deep into figuring out the electric gremlins (on top of finding the stacker which has to be within 600mm of the controller thats on the dash yet the previous owner didnt even know existed hahaha). Also interesting it has a really high end ISRI seat thats the best ive seen and with no evident long term wear but obvious its the original model.

Here Is a pic i took today in my driveway and another from the yard it was parked in , ill provide more pictures tomorrow but its night right now. Also found all the original paperwork for the truck including its build sheets and all books, seems i have to do some more homework. Also regarding the rails, i also have a mack CH with a ea7 410hp and i absolutely adore it but its a tipper and i absolutely hate the tipper (and i hate the tipper industry in australia thus selling it) but alas unless im mistaken they look to be straight rails on the quantum. Ill lift the body tomorrow and check (and yes ill provide pictures ).

Hi Everybody, Just purchased a really nice low mileage (relatively speaking as it has 580,000km) Mack Quantum which means i dont have to tell you im in Australia Goes really well with its 470hp ea7 and 18 speed Road ranger And the Renault Cabin really gives a great ride. I am under the impression this is essentially a Mack CH with a Renault Premium cabin plopped on top of it as all the mechanicals look Mack. I thought all 6x4 trucks had crosslocks but yesterday my heart dropped when i tried to get into my driveway and i couldnt find a button/switch/lever. Am i missing something? Were some 6x4 macks ordered without any form of crosslock? How can i check if it has it? If it does not have one then can i retrofit one? The previous owner said the motor was rebuilt 40,000km ago as it hydro locked up...... is this a thing to watch of for the e7/ea7? ( i suspect maybe their mechanic took them for a ride and didnt rebuild anything as im not seeing a rebuilt motor just a healthy one), Also is there anywhere i can get a repair manual for the Mack Quantum? Mack in Australia are not nice to deal with and extremely unhelpful (wont sell me the mechanic repair manual for a mack as "im not mechanic" hahaha )and i hope to never deal with them for anything ever. BTW i know i know ill cop all the flak as its "not a real mack" but hey its more Mack then all the new Volvos with Mack badges hahahah Thanking you guys in advance, Chris