Gorilla

Hi Everybody, Im 1/2 way through sorting my truck out and as the time comes near i am looking into finding contracts for work. I primarily want to operate as a tow operator at the beginning and in an ideal world would like to do reefer work ( as my hearing isnt good and i have a back condition so minimal hands on work for reefer). Basically i need a mentor who knows the game, in exchange i am happy to help with mechanical and electrical work and i have all the diagnostic equipment and a pretty decent workshop setup. Load boards here suck, their nothing like the ones in the states and i cant for the life of me find a broker, any broker..... simply none advertise which is weird.......so how do people get contacts for work? Cheers in advance, Chris

on the passenger side there is fuses inside and in the engine bay, inside they look very long which i suspect they are circuit breakers and outside (engine bay) they are fuses. Sadly "aussie" variants generally are a bit strange.....my mack quantum has real strange stuff.....but then again its a Renault Premium body on a mack CH!!!

In the engine bay i have fuses

Hey Everybody, Update:Truck Runs perfectly and all is resolved. In my years with cars and now trucks i have never ever every seen a fuse that works well until it is under load but this one did that and when tested showed it was good but when under load stopped working. Also some moron put a 15 amp fuse where clearly it says 25 amp....this is now resolved. Thank you all for the assistance, it did help

Dont get me started on workmanship of mechanics. Im a bit of a french car nut and know my way around the citroen hydroactive suspension system (the one most so called "mechanics" think is black magic and wont touch these cars). Anyways i was at a mechanics picking up some parts for my car as they also ran a wrecking yard and we got talking and they told me their "mechanics" had trouble with a hydroactive system.............met the owner of the car and he was a top bloke so i figured id help them sort it out............. not kidding when i say the following: 1. they used a impact gun on a thread that goes into aluminium in the suspension, screwed the thread and left it like that 2. they didnt want to remove all the bolts around the lower control arm to make it easy to remove and forced it out and back in 3. In the process of forcing it back in they bent a height sensor but left it like that because who cares 4. they couldnt figure out why the car was not lifting the rear and over lifting the front and burnt out the hydraulic pump 5. told them what they did and in front of the owner of the car, the owner of the mechanical workshop i told the so called "mechanic not to use the gun on aluminium suspension components and as soon as we turned around guess what the moron uses the gun and guess what he also screws the thread!!!! Lost my marbles and called him a moron in front of everyone, he had nothing........i walked off. Owner of the workshop begs me to help them as the owner of the car is losing his mind, told him ill do it ..........spent 1/2 a day fixing it to work, it worked but everything was not right as the morons did other work and i didnt trust them......... Long story short i told the owner of the car to go to someone who knows what their doing and the owner of the workshop to hire competent mechanics as he will kill someone......he told me he tried but none around!! WELCOME TO AUSTRALIA! Sure there are a few good mechanics BUT most yeh nah.

"think of the fly" in australia? are you kidding me, most so called "blokes" cant figure out how to change a tyre........ as an example of stupid my x boss demanded i drive a truck 40km to get a radiator hose repaired, i told him ill cook the engine but he demanded i do it and just stop every 5km at a petrol station to fill the water......... i did this and called him each time that it goes out as quick as i put it in but again he demanded......go to the "mechanic" and his jaw dropped that i drove it at all. Truck never went the same but hey we argued and he demanded. Sadly this is the mentality in this country, most are stupid.

I dont know what its like in the USA but in Australia the tipper drivers get constant abuse and they all put up with it (except me thus i quit the work). Gets real old real quick hearing constant abuse of other tipper drivers on the uhf, i never accepted it and one day the excavator operator went too far and i figured ill walk away before i get a criminal history. As for finding drivers here yeh nah, hard to get a local and the imports (cant name which ones as thats not socially acceptable in this "free" "democracy", yes we both have no freedom of speech) yeh well they cant drive and they lie...... every one of them has a gazillion years of experience and all the papers but for some strange reason they dont know how to operate the equipment. Ill sell the old girl cheap and be done with tipper work.

I was building it to keep but decided i prefer long haul and not keen on tipper work so its going up for sale soon.

Thanks mate again for your help as it was invaluable. Experience cannot be undervalued. BTW, here are some pics of the girl, yes the headlights are custom setups made by me Have the moulds to make more but damn it takes a lot of time to get them right in fibreglass. Front pic is right after vinyl wrap of large section, Left pic is final vinyl wrap finished.

Found Relay #3 feeds Fuse 40 If anybody need the info. :)

DUDE YOU ROCK!!! SERIOUSLY you ROCK!!!! hooked up another battery to the EECU fuse under the bonnet and came to life first turn (seems my bleeding was spot on). Interestingly if i disconnect that jumper while the engine is running the truck dies which i suspect means the relay feeding it is not working right. Where is the relay that feeds it? where is this Fuse 40? keep in mind im in australia so steering wheel is on the other side.

Yeh mate this is the plan Fuel is definately clean to all six Ill keep you all update.

Also ill try your trick too with the ecu fuse good idea

Interesting you say that as i have another truck with the e7 etech (which im keeping ) and same batteries started it no worries. So the starters like to die in this way, interesting. Got an old school load tester (one that uses a heat coil) and found it to be super reliable so will try out the batteries tomorrow. But would a starter get damaged from sitting for a few years? maybe the high pressure washing left water in it?

Ok just got back from the truck and found that no signal at injectors so electrical, checked voltage on battery while cranking and about 8.5v SOOOO tomorrow gonna put different more powerful batteries in and lets see. Fkn sure i bled it right, to be sure to be sure today cracked a two injectors and got no bubbles (at the head). Thank you all for the input i am seriously greatfull........ seems i didnt factor in that trucks suck up voltage like stupid.... my bad. Will keep you updated.

only downloaded it last night, thanks for that advice

ah crap you may be onto something, gonna check that too, thanks

ill check this out and report back

Its an Etech not Aset, today im going to read codes, possible one of the sensors (crank or cam) is causing computer not to send signal to injectors too.....

Should add, i noticed that if i walk away after hand pumping the fuel primer and come back 5 minutes later it is no longer hard and i need to pump it a bit more. Starting to wonder if the fuel check valve is stuck open? Also after cranking the engine the fuel primer is soft again.

Im cracking the lines at the head as figured air rises. Why can they be a bastard to get started? Im starting to worry.

Hi Everybody, Background story is truck ran perfect although needed work(unrelated to the engine), everything from fan shroud to fuel tanks were damaged so it has been sitting around while i sorted it all out. As I only disconnected the fuel supply line at the tank i figured it wont draw air into the fuel system (boy was i wrong) but it did sit like that for over two years while i sorted other things out. Here is what i have done: *repeatedly primed it with hand pump and pressure builds and can feel it but no start *cracked the the lines to the injectors one by one and found there was air in the system so hand pumped till clean fuel came out, tried to start and nothing. *cracked with injectors and cranked it and clean fuel came out of all injector lines, tightened back up, primed hand pump nothing. only thing i can think of that i did not do is check the fuel filters are full of fuel but as i did not have a filter wrench with me today i did not do that but will tomorrow. How do i read the blink lights to get codes and is there a code list you could give me? Its a 2003 Etech 410hp Other option is while i was painting the frame and disconnected stuff i may have left some sensor disconnected but i am pretty good at making sure all is well generally although my experience is more so with cars and not trucks and have bled diesel fuel systems without issue in cars. I have purchased a vocom but it will be a few weeks away and hoping to get it running at least before that. Thank you in advance, Chris

Funny you would say that, my truck was used for concrete panel haulage before i bought it. Last job i was driving trucks with Teflon plates the 5th wheels were getting covered in grease and i did not notice an issue. Im in a very steep learning curve as i got out of IT(computers) a few years ago, was driving tippers and tautliners in heavy rigids and only drove Big rigs in the last year. Im still in two minds of which way to go as i will be driving another companies trailers and they will have grease on them 100% and im not going to clean up a trailer every morning i pick up a new one (as trailers are pre loaded and waiting).

Worked for a dozen companies and nobody told me about ballrace turntables hahahaha, no kidding.

I can get a whole new ballrace assembly at a fairly reasonable price (around 1-1.2k aud), i dont think i can fix the existing one due to the nature of the damage.