Supermutt

Does a e7 350 mechanical have relays ?

Coolant filter & coolant is going to get changed out.

The book does spec a 10 lb cap. From the bottom of the filler neck to bottoming out is about 2.5”. I have attached a pic. Also there is what looks like a low coolant sensor on the tank. I can remember the type of tank you are talking about. Pretty sure back in the day my e9 500 had that. 1st generation.

Mine seems like a standard tank. Regular 10lb cap with a relief in the filler neck with the factory line routed down the side to just below the frame.

Thank you, I honestly think it may be the original lol. Do you know if it should be full to the filler neck or an 1” or so below.

I am trying to find out what the radiator full level is on my 1996 DM686S ? I topped it off pretty much to the bottom of the filled neck and it’s puking it out the cap vent line. No expansion tank on this truck. I have no water in oil, no oil in coolant, no air bubbles in radiator and also used block test and it did not turn yellow. Sooooo Did I just overfill it or ? thanks

I dropped them off to be tested a a Bosch pump shop. The guy there said the green paint marks were a QC mark from the bosh factory. They are most likely the original injectors. Pretty sure they are going to be nfg. 3 out of the 6 definitely had bad o-rigs as they were soaked with fuel and leaking out the head.

I just pulled these injectors from my 96 DM688S with a e7 350. Comments welcome. Injector No. KBAL 137 P 26 571. I see the same no. for a e7 400 except for the 571. Iam not super familiar with the injector numbers. Does this 350 have 400 injectors ? I also noticed that the injectors have 2 green paint marks on the top ? Would these marks be something original from the factory ? I have never seen that before on replacement injectors

Geoff thank you for clearing up the confusion. Makes perfect sense on why not to place the probe upstream.

For what it’s worth here is a pic of the instructions that refer to location & temp delta.

I thought I would share what I recently read and possibly most of you already know. I just installed a new pyrometer in my 96 DM. I got it from PAI. After thinking I would have to weld a nut on the exhaust I found that it was tapped with a 1/4” plug about 3” downstream from the turbo. It was on the back side so I didn’t see it at first. So as usual I installed everything without reading the instructions. After I was done I browsed through them. I found a warning/notice stating that if the probe was installed post turbo the gauge would be reading 150-200 degrees cooler than the actual exhaust temp ! It stated that if possible to locate the probe pre turbo in the exhaust manifold. Welp there is no way that’s going to happen on my e7 350. I personally have never seen one on a Mack installed in the manifold. Or for that matter on a cat or Cummins. Always just after the turbo. So for the last 40 years when I was looking at the exhaust temp and thought it was 850 it was really 1050 degrees ? How many of you are aware of this. Am I the only one that never gave this any thought ? Thanks

Hello all, I have had a number of questions about my injector pump. One of which is how to turn it up. First off the engine is a 1996 E7 350 fully mechanical engine. After talking to a number of pump guys including Antrim diesel my pump is as I thought. A Bosch P-7100 pump just like the ones on a Cummins 12 Valve. Turning up the pump itself was fairly easy. Getting to the fuel plate under the AFC was the hard part. The AFC housing sits on the top back of the pump. There are 3 slotted machine screws and 1 anti tamper machine screw. These slotted screws are super tight and difficult to get at with the pump on the truck. The anti tamper was actually the easiest to get out. Just drive a T15 torx bit into the top with a good solid hit with a hammer first then it came right out. The others were a bugger. You must have a thick large slotted driver so it fits the machine screw good. After you remove the AFC housing you will now see the fuel plate you may want to prick punch where it is before you move it in case you want to move it back. I loosened the two machine screws and slid it all the way toward the front of the engine and tighten the screws. Next I removed the hex plug from the top of the AFC housing. Once removed you will see a star wheel. I loosened mine by 2 turns. I then reinstalled the AFC housing and slid it all the way toward the front of the engine. Done, pump is cranked. But beware there are a number of items that must be done or checked otherwise you may burn it down. 1) Pyrometer is a must. 2) engine timing must be at a minimum to factory specs. I have been told to advance it up to 1.5 degrees and no more if it runs hot. 3) Good accurate engine temp gauge. 4) AFC needs to be tested/verified that it is functioning properly 5) Boost indicator gauge So this is a trial and error thing Every engine will react a bit different I am going to follow up with oversized injectors from Antrim Diesel after the oversized injectors are in the timing will be bumped I only posted this because I have seen quite a few people trying to figure out how to turn up the pump I do not claim to be a pump expert I am simply sharing what pump experts reviewed with me I have attached a pic of the pump, before fuel plate was moved and after it was moved.

May sound stupid, but I am trying to figure out how I can add in a clear line on the suction side. I am guessing the same for the return line. As far as I know the only return I have goes back to the pump. Great idea. I just need to figure out how to make it happen. Thanks

Engine is a full mechanical E7 350. It is running a bit ruff with a bit of vibration. I cracked the injector lines at each delivery valve on the pump. I did not find a dead or non reactive cylinder but what I did notice is air bubbles coming out with the fuel when cracked open a bit ? Not sure but I don’t think I should be getting air bubbles. The truck will start ok after sitting for a week so I don’t think it’s sucking air. Thanks

Joey I sent you a message. I will have to pick up that timing tool.

Turn up or move fuel plate forward. The pump must be American Bosch. It’s a 1996. It must be a P7100 identical to Cummins 12v.

hello, I don’t mean any disrespect to anyone on the site. I am looking for a resident wizard on the E7 350 mechanical fuel system. I have read countless posts on here but they do not get into the specifics of fuel settings etc and many have a lot of folks chiming in with their two cents but actually have very little experience with this specific fuel system. Any help would be greatly appreciated ! thanks

I have tried everything i can think of to clear my attachments so I could post some pics. When i go to manage attachments i can not find any way to delete them ? i have been taken to task

Thanks, how did you figure it should be a 350 for that model ? Just curious, always need to learn even @ 59 lol. It’s funny you mention the shifter. I blew up an interior pic and saw gray on the left side and black facing forward. So I knew it wasn’t a T2090. It has 4.17 ratio. 38’s on a DM did not make sense with a 16,500 steer. But I guess ya never know. Good thing is it’s 100% mechanical 😁.

Looking to see if anyone can help me identify the rears on this truck I purchased. The truck shop says they are 38’s. The vin number says 44k ? They also do not have rubber trunion bushings. The entire thing has me perplexed. They say it’s an e7-300, vin says e7-350, they say Mack 9 speed and vin says 13/18speed Mack. I am I am very confused. Thanks for any help. I have attached the only pics I have. My apologies. Apparently I have reached my limit on photos and can not figure out how to delete some to gain back room. I have only attached 7 photos ever. Not much allowed.

could anyone tell me what the Mack SWS 56 camelback suspension was rated for ? forward drive is a CRDLP 92 the rear is a CRDL 93 chassis is listed as RR-SCTN, SWS 56 truck is a 1984 RS686LST ratio is 5.02 trans is RTX 14609B front axle is FAW 536C thank you !

Hello, I am trying to find out if the 1980 Western Superliners with the aluminum frame used a steel forward section for the engine area and partially under the cab. I am having trouble getting a definitive answer, or maybe there were multiple configurations. 🤷🏻‍♂️. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you

Trying to buy it. It does have an aluminum frame.

No worries Paul. Sorry for the confusion.

Looking for those that know far more about old truck value than I do. Which would not take a lot. My question is what would a 1980 Superliner 440 V8, 12spd, lockers, Tri Drive, air susp, aluminum frame, heavy front with super singles, runs good, body isn’t bad, new dual exhaust, nice interior. Looking for a ball park No on what it might be worth. Thank you !