Ricky Beals

I have gotten where I only use the clutch in that 9 speed to take off. It took a while but I got the hang of it. So it seems that 7 speed going to be a lot pickier than 9 speed.

With hours to miles it looks like this could be original miles. Of course no way to verify. 13,773 hours to 197,770 miles. That’s about 14 miles per hour so what ever it was used for it wasn’t in a hurry

I don’t mind slow either jojo. I get passed all the time in my Toyota Tacoma. I’m just not in any hurry. Where I’m from we have quite a few curves so going over 50 loaded is going be average. is this a big difference from that 9 speed T3901 I’m using now. Since I have never driven a 6 speed where is the difference. If that’s a fair question

This is just a post for information. Saw an ad for a low miles 2000 rd690s with a seven speed. What little information I can find, not many people like the seven speed for a dump truck. Where these trucks mostly day cab trucks that were converted to dump trucks. Shows double frame, em7 300 horsepower. looks like a nice set up all except the seven speed. Just gaining knowledge so appreciate the information

Some of these 90’s model rd688 are showing 200,000 to 300,000 miles on odometer. You would think they have rolled over. At what point is the mileage to great of a risk. Say a 1.2 million mile Mack rd688 that has had motor rebuilt. At what point does it become cost prohibitive with the transmission and rearends

Where do you see the springs worn into one another. I can’t see what you see.

What do you guys replace your bushings with? Have you guys upgraded your springs? If so what with or do you still run three leaf that came on truck.

Thank you guys for your response. I appreciate the time and information you guys have given me. Again I really appreciate your time and patience. is this something a guy with some mechanical skills perform? I’m talking replacing the springs and bushings and pins. I have replaced a few leaf spring packs on Toyota tacomas but Never have owned a big truck or been around them much. Bought some land and needed to build some roads and move a lot of gravel. So bought this truck and a excavator and just started doing it. The biggest tools I have are 1/2” drive and a Milwaukee 1/2 impact.

Onyx610 I just don’t see where to wedge a block of wood at to turn steer tire into it. Like I said never seen it done so having to visualize it. The brake can in the way on top and nothing to wedge on the bottom

Sorry guys but my son is down wiring up my shop. It’s gotten real cold here. I took this photo of the drivers rear spring bushings. something is definitely loose because when I turn and truck shifts weight to say passenger side I hear and feel a loud clunk. I feel it in my feet. Same when weight gets shifted to drivers side.

Here are my springs. Only band on the set.

We talking a 2x4 piece of wood say 3’ long. Sorry to be anal but I have never seen this done so I’m trying to understand.

I will look tomorrow but I’m thinking they are gone on both sets.

Jojo when you say straighten the springs I’m guessing your thinking one end is bent toward opposite tire. (Just an example) and if that’s the case knock it back in line and then tighten the hell out of nut. what do you mean band clamp is an indicator for shifting springs? sorry guys this is my first truck and I’m about as green as a gourd.

I’m not following you on this? Can you give a little more detailed please.

Yes sir it does.

I have a 2003 Mack Ch613 that has been converted to a dump truck. My steer axle springs are good but my bushings seem like they need replaced. When I’m loaded and I make turns that shift the load I can hear and feel a pop under my feet. I’m thinking my bushings are worn?

Jojo I read a thread where you were going help someone hook up shop air to their dryer but they didn’t think they had one. With that said what do I need to do this? I have chronic tinnitus so looking for air leaks without the truck running is a big plus for me.

Ok I got a chance to look at another Mack CH and I saw the two brackets you guys are referring to. I definitely don’t have them. I will work on finding them to install. When I bought this truck I knew it was a little rough. I’m basically fixing up some property that’s been in my family and building roads for the property. My ABS light is on and I’m thinking most of the wires to the wheels have been cut. Would you guys hook the abs back up. I personally don’t use it much on the road but to get fuel. More than likely I will be putting farm tags on it at renewal. With that said I also want to be safe and not cut corners especially if it keeps me out of a wreck.

The bottom photo shows it running along the transmission and top rail by exhaust. I don’t see anywhere to attach it to the top of transmission. Do you guys think this will be ok with the exhaust this close. My only other option is to drop it down when it leaves the compressor and run inside frame rail to dryer but I’m thinking it will create a low spot this way.

Mark what do you mean when you say lots of them switch to something else?

Jojo got a question for you. Had an air leak on the 2003 ch613 and it was in the ss braided hose off the compressor. The guy before me had a 4’ ss braided 1/2”I’d hose connected to a 6’ hydraulic hose that was connected to dryer. I know the hydraulic hose was wrong. If I understand you correctly that -12 fits a 5/8 nylon braided hose correct. I’m wondering if I go to a Napa parts store they will know the correct hoses or do I need to go to a Mack parts store? Thanks Ricky

I have a 2003 Mack ch613 that was converted to a dump truck. I’m replacing the line from compressor to dryer and it’s 80” long. I understand I need ss braided hose when I leave compressor but instead running whole length in ss braided is there something cheaper I can run after I leave compressor. I will run braided if needed but seems like overkill to go total run with braided. Thanks Ricky

How do you reseal? Is there an Oring behind the glass thimble?