Ricky Beals

Good call Mark that turned the light off. I’m guessing when this light comes on you need to respect it and find the problem. second problem!! Did this gauge come with truck or was it an add on. It’s a psi gauge but not working or i have yet seen gauge move? its not letting me add the photo and same phone I took the first photo with. I may have to start another thread

I have no idea what coolant it has in it. Or what it should have in it. I’m going get ALL MAKES ALL MODELS and put it in there for now.

Ok thanks Mark, no coolant in reservoir or near cap on radiator. I’m going put distilled water in and find the leak before adding antifreeze.

Ok when that light comes on I should definitely figure out why it’s on.

Got my truck yesterday and going change the Trunnion bushings out at the end of month. In process of moving household down to my birthplace. At this time I’m not getting to work on truck but building cabinets for shop building. The parking brake light on left side of truck stays on. What parking brake light is this? It’s not the one that’s goes off when air pressure hits 70. Anybody got any idea on what to check. I took both wires off the switch on outside of firewall below fuse box, took wires off switch below ignition (key switch) light stayed on. Just taking one problem at a time.

Thanks guys, I think those low gears are pretty low can’t imagine what lower than low would be like. Probably will only use it in LoLo hole. We don’t have many hills but could see where it would come in handy starting out on a hill.

JoeH thanks for the replies. Here is a question. I’m stopped and gear shift is in Lo. I move deep reduction switch in (forward). Lo gear becomes lolo gear. What happens if I still have deep reduction in and move to 1st or 2nd. Are these gears now lower than they would be if I didn’t have deep reduction switch in? Do I have lolo first, lolo second, lolo third?

My first mack had a mack 9 speed so it had a high/low switch. I understood how it worked. The RD 688 I’m getting has a Eaton fuller 8ll. It has the high/low switch in front of shifter knob but then has a reduction switch on left of shifter knob. When do I use the reduction switch? What’s the sequence?

I bought the truck Monday. After the salesman explained to me they just took the truck in on trade and have done nothing to it. General Manager wanted to fix it up and sale it so wasn’t coming off one penny. Salesman told me if I wanted anything done to truck it would cost me 145 an hour. They are putting in windshield for purchase price. I asked parts guy was it heavy frame and he said it was. Truck was bought by county new and they have owned it roughly 21 years. It’s a one owner truck. It’s a little rough on inside but I should be able to fix it up. It has cable controls to raise and lower bed. I’m going have some questions for you guys. Thanks for all the information. I truly think this is one of the best forums I’m a member of.

The frame was solid and no rust. Been a south Arkansas truck all it’s life. Not a double frame but the big thick one. I’m thinking I will probably be sitting in sales office Monday morning. I will get better photos if I buy it. Of course I will have a lot of questions for you guys.

I got my CDL last year to drive a dump truck. I only drive in Arkansas and I got a class A CDL. I had to get a medical card before I could submit everything to the DMV for my license. now I looked at the 2000 Rd688 today and it wasn’t a bad truck. New tires all the way around. Had two wheel seals leaking. A small leak from a bad oring on front tandem axel. (Thanks JoJo.) The air gate latch cylinder that opens and closes the tailgate latch was missing and there was a hole in the muffler that ran under cab before it went into stack. No leaks in the motor, transmission. No blowby that I could see. You could tell it has been greased and I was told it was a county truck and they were good about maintenance. They wanted 26,500.00 as is. This truck was traded in two days ago and the dealership just hasn’t had time to get it ready for sale. I wanted the two wheel seals, oring replaced on rearend, latch cylinder added and plumbed back in to airlines and muffler fixed. General manager wouldn’t do it and I walked. Salesman called and told me general manager wouldn’t budge and I better think long and hard about letting 1,000.00 in repairs stand in the way of getting truck. So I’m thinking. AC doesn’t work, trunion bushings have to be replaced. What you think?

I was told by an old mack log hauler to only use the clutch to change directions or from a complete stop. My only mack was a Maxitorque 9speed and it was easy to shift. I got to where I never used a clutch except changing directions or leaving from a stop. So do you use or not use a clutch? I also understand grinding ain’t finding the gear.

I’m looking at the dump truck near my house and called my Mack dealer to get him to give me the Details from Vin. This is Mack dealer where I’m moving to. Somehow me and the parts guy hit it off when I went in last year. I give him the Vin and he says this truck got a 14000 pound axle and I’m like you got to be kidding. He says no I’m not but we just took a 2000 rd688 in on trade and it’s what your looking for. So he sent me the specs and it’s 18,000 front axle, Eaton fuller 8ll and mack rears. It was a customers truck and he says the truck has been maintained. They guy bought a new one with automatic. So I talked to sales manager and going down to buy it next week for 30,000.00 got 370,000 miles E7 350. Hopefully my search is over.

Just called the owner which was a straight up guy on twin stick. He said the frame was rough. Said it was the weakest point on the truck. Going shoot me some photos but said if he were to keep it he would cut it out and weld in another piece. He also didn't know if it had a million miles or just 52,000. He was a straight shooter. More than likely I'm going look hard at the 95 Mack RD that I uploaded photos on. It needs a lot of little things but I think its a solid mechanical truck. Frame is solid, needs tires all around. Going back out there today and lift the bed and go over it a little more. Can buy it for around 12,000 and put some money in it and I thing may have an old workhorse. Any advice on checking those rearends or seeing if there is trouble in that area?

How would someone even get a truck like that to Arkansas? It’s 11 hour drive from here so no way I’m driving it back.

How do you shift a twin stick? Go to neutral with gear shift and then shift to high from low and then shift to fifth?

That’s a long way from Arkansas and I don’t know how I would like the two lever transmission

Ok I just looked at this 1995 RD 688 thats 5 miles from my house. The owner wasn’t there and Batteries were down so I wasn’t going jump it without him being there. It’s rough but can be bought for 11,000.00. I called the people that owned it (name was on side and they said it spent it’s whole life in a shell pit. It has lever controls on dump bed. Current owner says it runs and is mechanical sound. I’m going upload a lot of photos. Truck leaks at oil pan, has a leak behind filters on drivers side.