Etu

Thank you all. After considering options we think we’d like to sell the complete truck as is. The drive shaft is disconnected at the rear end for towing. Otherwise it is fully intact. Btw the hood was raised and not damaged by the fire. So even that is good for reuse. Let me know if there’s anywhere else I should post pictures and details for those who might have interest. Thanks again for all the great feedback. Eddy

That’s a very interesting prospect. I hadn’t thought of that. It was a very desirable truck for us. Really smooth and enjoyable to drive.

Build date was 5/18/2000, ETECH 350 HP, Eaton FRO13210C 10 speed trans . Eaton 4.11 rears. info from truck vin# provided by Mack Pro few years ago

Here’s couple pics of the tag on the rear axle housing. Does that help answer your question or do you need something more?

Thanks for everyone’s input. Based on all advice, we’re getting a newer truck (2005 CH613 pic below) and will sell this one (2001 CH613) for salvage. It was not possible to find a donor 2001 daycab after nationwide search. We could only find a sleeper cab in Georgia. Like Geoff summed it up, we’d be chasing one problem after another messing with scorched wires hoses etc. If anyone knows of someone who needs parts from a low mileage 2001 CH 613, E7 with 10 speed tranny and locker rear ends and air ride suspension, then let me know. Build date was 5/18/2000, ETECH 350 HP, Eaton FRO13210C 10 speed trans . Eaton 4.11 rears.

Yes everything plastic on the turbo side of the engine melted, hoses wires, etc. Driver side of the engine doesn’t look too bad. When the large plastic air filter housing melted it left a lot of plastic residue. Valve covers look good. Hard to imagine but the oil feed line to the turbo is still intact I wonder if we just had turbo seals to fail? The fire was initially just on the turbo but when the air filter housing caught fire that’s when the fire became intense.

Here are some pics.

We have a low mileage 2001 Mack CH600 tractor on which the turbo oil line ruptured and started a fire on the turbo. We went through 3 fire extinguishers but the fire spread to the air filter housing and wiring and everything on outside firewall and interior passenger side of dash is ruined. Fire department blew out the front windshields but doors ,air ride seats, rear glass etc is good. Before this happened there was no damage at all to the truck. It has 300k miles, ETec 7 engine, 10 speed manual transmission. We only use it on our farm and everything worked fine on the truck. It’s pre def and onerous emissions. I searched for this truck quite long time and it was so reliable for our needs. Before I sell the truck for salvage, I wonder is it possible or practical to replace the cab? All feedback is appreciated Eddy Turner, Georgia

Followed Joey Mack instructions on bleeding and it worked fine.

Gotcha. Thanks so much.

This is my line set up. I’m assuming you are polishing the tip that goes into the injection nozzle holder?

Thank you so much Joey Mack I understand about the Emory cloth on the seat. But how do you torque condition the nuts going in the head?

We just replaced exhaust gaskets and of course had to remove the injection lines. Now we are having difficulty bleeding the injection lines. I can’t seem to find the procedure in my copy of SB-210-034. While searching on line, I also read somewhere these lines are one time use?? Is that why we’re having trouble bleeding? Any feedback appreciated. Thanks

That is robbery. I just used the PAI 831016 Exhaust Stud kit that contained the 12 studs, 12 copper locking nuts and 6 gaskets. It was $113.75 usd. hopefully you can find another source.

I just replaced exhaust gasket on my 2001 350 hp ETech. The original studs were threaded full length which means you have to be very careful on the lower ones to prevent hitting the push rods. I replaced with an updated stud which is threaded only as deep as required to give the 1.75” length outside the head and avoid setting too deep in the head. It’s very easy to get the 20ftlb torque while setting these updated studs. The oil on your lower stud comes from oil in that section of the head where the push rod operates. The stud you removed by hand apparently did not have the required Loctite 272.