DieselDog5.9

Yes, Mack rears, CRD92/93 I would include some pictures but apparently I am not doing something right.

My Granite came from the factory with Chalmers 46k Suspension. I would love to swap in the Cast housings, but assuming I can't weld the tabs to the cast housings.

The walking beam on a chalmers suspension requires a locating bracket on top of the axle tube that needs to be welded in place.

To answer your origional question, and others can chime in, the health of your engine can be looked at from multiple areas: Engine oil pressure- as rod bearing clearance and main bearing clearance dictate your oil pressure, rod bearing and main bearing wear will cause lower oil pressure. Blow by- a guage can be hooked up to the downdraft tube and a pressure reading can give you the sealing power of the rings and how much combustion is getting into the oil pan. Maintenance-I personally would say a big overlooked issue with older engines is the coolant, these engines should be tested for additive package, treating and testing the coolant will prevent cavitation of the cylinder liners. E9 Issues-I have heard, ( not experienced) that the valve seats can be sensitive to heating and cooling, guys I know with E9's let them idle to cool down longer than most common engines.

I have an 03 Granite with a 14,000lb front axle. I pulled from another truck, an 18k axle, steering box with pitman arm drag link and bolts. Has anyone done this and am I looking at major issues that I have not predicted yet. Looks like I will need to drill 1 aditional hole.

I think the cast housings can only be used with camelback suspension, and to have Hendrickson or Chalmers you need the stamped steel housings to weld the propriatory brackets to.

https://ferrumtools.net/products/mack-e7-front-crankshaft-seal-installer-alternative-to-j-37715-a?variant=40600841682987&country=US&currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=20340734823&gbraid=0AAAAABVjs4sQGz6LlScHI47AWG59a8Kr8&gclid=Cj0KCQiAm9fLBhCQARIsAJoNOcsT_lsWVq--HzLvqr42yAwq44tZKMCC65eMd9j9_4Mz4uEnu2QrvsIaAqKJEALw_wcB This is the tool I found from Ferrum Tools.

I am gearing up for the front main seal install in my 2003 Mack Granite and looking for a front main seal tool part number, so I can purchase, also any technical information would be helpfull. Also, the engine is an AI400. Does that make it an Etech or an E7 or both?

Did the new bushings have grooves for the grease to travel in like the bushings you removed? Does the grease fitting hole line up with a travel opening for grease? Is the location of the bottom bearing interfering with grease travel? You should verify the seal is facing in the direction to keep water out, but allow grease to easily pass, it is backwards from what is intuitive, and would create pressure if installed backwards, locking up a grease gun.

That is the suspension I have, One cool thing about chalmers is the part numbers are printed on each individual part

I do have an I phone. I have tried loading from phone and email to myself then upload from computer. But I did take the pictures on the I phone

So I have taken a bunch of pictures but can't seem to get them to upload without an error message. I guess I am trying to figure out what the story is, I have pieced together that I have CRD92Lo front carrier, and a stamped housing. I am assuming the stamped steel housing is used for the chalmers saddles to be welded to. Currently my stamped housing is cracked around the ring for the carrier bolts, after having it welded, the 2 bolt holes under the housing cover are tweeked a wisker and the bolts loosen up and oil leaks from between the housing and carrier, so I am replacing the housing with a used one hopefully, Mack wants 8k for an axle housing.

I have an 03 Mack CV713 Granite with Chalmers rear suspension, with no Capacity door tag. I got the build sheet from Mack listing a 14k front axle and 38k rears. I was told that I have a 46k suspension by the Mack parts dealer and I have bought 46k suspension parts. So... Am I 38k capacity or 46k capacity?

I am going off of memory, but the schematic for a Granite shows fuse 7 feeding the key switch aux relay and brake relay maybe. After isolating and examining all the wiring for that circuit and pulling down the ECU and looking for a rubbed wire there, I replaced the key switch and the associated relays and fingers crossed truck has been on the road 6 months without that issue coming up again.

I have an 03 CV713 Granite, the truck died loaded a few weeks ago, found fuse #7 blown, replaced the fuse fired right up. Fast forward a month truck died again, replaced the fuse again fired up, 30 minutes later fuse blown and wont take a fuse without blowing with the key on. Pulled it out of the road, went back a few hours later with a wiring schematic, pulled the ignition switch out of the column, put a fuse in fired right back up. Looks like that fuse powers the key switch, then powers the Accessory relay, and the emergency stoplamp relay. Havent found the accessory relay or emergency stoplamp relay yet. When broke down on the road noticed with the key off, and the ignition switch fuse blown, the brake lights were on. Is this a known issue for these trucks that I am chasing?

Yes lots of oil, Got a few weeks till mud season shut down, If it has a wabco, does a wabco have to go back in? Wabco seems to build air slow on all macks, and super expensive.

Compressor is worn out, I am hoping to make it to mud season before I pull the compressor. The gasket between block and compressor is also leaking pretty bad, hoping to upgrade compressor, havent done any research on that yet. I changed the Air Dryer and Governor last week so it would build air when cold. My fan is not air actuated, it is a viscus clutch like a car. Leak is constant.

Hello all, Have a leak on the back side of what I think is the treadle valve, Blue arrow showing port leaking air, not sure what the purpose of this aditional valve is, but my experience with leaking valves is the issue is somewhere else and the leak shows up at the exhaust port. Could the leak be just the valve? Can this valve be ordered separate?

I repaired a broken wire on the front left wheel, cleared the codes, ABS light still on, have a code, SYSTEM DIAGNOSTIC CODE #1 SID 151- FMI 14, the wheel sensor code cleared, so assuming it is an issue with the ABS module, I have the schematic, and have a few clerifying questions. What is the voltage supposed to be on the other side of the resistor feeding an Eaton abs module on pin #18? I have an ABS light on, inspection tomorrow, Pin #8 and #9 have 12 volts. 👍 Pin #18 on the ABS module, 0.87 volts, seems odd, this pin is feed from the fuse box to a resistor, before resistor 12V, after resistor 0.87V. Fail 😕

Pictures please. Some guys are big on the V8, for me the parts availability would steer me clear, also dont these engines have to be driven carefully or they drop valves and such?

As I understand it the 427 tune is for vocational trucks and is better than the 460 tune for highway trucks. I sent my ECM to an independant to reprogram to get the engine to pull under 1500 rpms, it is a whole different truck now. The dealers in the early 2000's had a "smoke tune" that would really make a 427 pull, that program is gone, and a 460 tune would require additional hardware from Mack for me to go from ai400 to 427/460 You guys in maine have a great dealership, we are recovering from loosing our local Mack Dealer.

I carry a 5lbs sledge hammer, and a fitsall, metric and standard versions. Air hose, pressure guage and adapter to get air from trailer glad hand.

Yes, the owner has had fantom light issues for multiple years, all set now. What an odd spot to hang a stop light switch.

I Did find it, had fallen down on the intake manifold and shorted out.