Midland Oilfield

Im working on a 95 CH613 and the econovance plate and solenoid are leaking oil where they meet. The solenoid is grooved out where the backing plate holds it in. I know this is an obsolete part but looking around online I found one that looks very similar to it but has a different part number. I'm hoping someone here can tell me if they are interchangeable or not. Original part number is 805GC311 and the one I've found for sale is 805GC319.

I did the relearn, and after multiple regens and messing with stuff the def pump started leaking at the filter housing. Replace it with a new pump and everything went back to running like normal.

I have been jumping between PTT and a CanDo HD. I have never tried doing a learned reset on something, ill look into trying this.

I’ve got a 2013 GU713 that went into derate. I pulled it in and scanned it and it threw a code for NOx sensor 1 being bad and needing a forced regen. I replaced the sensor and did the regen, but the truck is still in derate. I rescanned the truck and it shows no codes. So currently all programs are updated, no codes, and I even tried just disconnecting the batteries and nothing has worked. Any suggestions y’all might have for things to check or try would help out a lot. Thanks

Did you ever find an answer to this question. Im having similar problems with mine.

Thanks. I'm sure there's a switch somewhere that controls it, I just haven't found it yet.

Yes its not getting power. I am trying to track down where it gets power for the driving light. It doesnt make sense to me that the light works on the switch, but will not light up when the brake button is pushed in. And its only on one side.

Im working on a 2016 Mack GU713. Now all the headlights and running lights work off of their respective switches except for the low beam driving light on the passenger side that comes on when you release the spring brakes. I have put a new headlight wiring harness on it for other reasons and have checked all the fuses and relays I can find. Does anyone have an idea as to what it could be? Passenger side low beam driving light wont come on but the low beam light will turn on when you turn the running lights and head lights on at the switch. Also so far I have not found a broken wire anywhere.

I know this is very late but the problem ended up being at the tractor protection valve. When we replaced that part we bought one we thought was the same, ended up being slightly different. We plugged off the unused ports on the new valve the same way the old valve was and one of those ports needed to be opened up for it to work properly. Thanks for yalls help.

I'm working on a 2014 GU713 that went into derate. During the course of trouble shooting I found that the EGR cooler was leaking. Even though the truck was in derate it was running normally. After I changed the EGR cooler, I fired the truck up and the truck started over fueling. A lot of raw fuel is getting into the new EGR cooler and is going through the turbo to the exhaust. What few minutes I had the truck running it showed to still be in derate but did not show any codes other than an oil pressure switch being out, there are no derate codes. If anybody could point me in the right direction it would be very helpful. I had this happen once before and the local Mack dealership said it was because the turbo lost calibration, but I dont know how to confirm that possibility now without towing this truck to them. Any in sight yall might have would be great.

There are 2 double check valves on the foot valve, I replaced these valves when I changed the foot valve. Also this is doing the same thing with the second trailer I hooked up to it. I have changed valves on the trucks brake system also just to see if by some chance if air was leaking through. This truck is plumbed a bit different to me. Also I don't think it will matter but this truck started life as a bobtail dump truck and then someone converted the truck to haul a trailer and turned it into a kill truck. We've had this truck for about 10 years and this just started a few weeks ago, so I don't think it has anything to do with the way they rigged it up just giving information. Also I put a gauge on the double check again with this separate trailer and if I have 120 psi in my air tanks the blue line will send around 110 psi to the trailer, and when you let off the brake pedal the valves and the quick release only drop around 30 psi. Then the ABS valve on the trailers will start to slowly open and close dropping around 10 psi every time they open until all the air is gone. I have hooked up to other trucks and trailers with the gauge and when you hit the pedal with them it will pressure up the same but will drop all of the air to zero on the blue line as soon as you let off the brake pedal.

432-742-5400 is their head office in Midland, Tx 432-683-1888 is the number to 1 of their yards in Midland also. Hope this helps.

I have a 2001 Mack RD688S I am hoping someone can help. The truck brakes are working fine on this truck, but the trailer brakes are locking down after you hit the brake pedal 4 to 5 times. I have hooked a gauge to the blue line and it builds up pressure every time you use the brake pedal instead of releasing it all. I have gone through and replaced the trailer supply button in the cab, the foot pedal, the tractor protection valve (twice), and added a quick release between the tractor protection valve and the glad hands to the trailer. I have also replaced both air valves on the trailer for other reasons, and ran a new line from the tractor protection valve and the quick release to the glad hands just to see if the air line itself was causing it. I have also tested the hand valve and it works fine. I've searched and asked around my area and nobody has any idea what might be causing this, any help from the BMT community would be awesome.

Could that cause the other issues I’m having with the truck?

If that's on the blink codes then 5-7 is the engine oil level and 7-5 is Battery/Alternator voltage. Batteries could be bad or your alternator could be going out. And the oil level could be low or the sensor could be going bad.

I am working on a 2013 Mack GU713, with an MP8 in it. Over the last 2 weeks or so I've put in a new radiator, engine wiring harness, DEF wiring harness, DEF level sensor, engine oil level sensor, water pump, fan clutch, and new batteries. I have also pulled all grounding cables and polished them and the studs they connect to. Now the issue in having is that the truck will run, but for a unknown amount of time before it shuts itself off. When the truck shuts itself off the DEF gauge on the dash goes to empty and the truck will not turn over. Disconnecting the batteries will not reset anything to get the engine running again. The only way I have found to reset everything to get the truck started again is to pull fuse F38 for the engine ECU under the kick panel. When I pull this fuse every time the fuse isn't blown, I've swapped it with other fuses just to be sure. But once I put it back in the Def gauge goes to where it should be and the truck will fire up and run. Sometimes it runs for a few minutes or for a few hours before it shuts itself down again. And I have checked all my connections multiple times from the 2 harnesses I replaced and I have checked all fuses and relays and have wiggled more wires than I knew were there. Also when the truck dies Premium Tech Tool (PTT) doesn't show any codes or problems on the truck, but if you go through the dash to pull codes the only 1 I get is for the engine, its SPN 102 FMI 2. I have searched online and in my books and cannot find this code anywhere. If anybody can help it would be much appreciated to get this truck back to work.