mechohaulic

4 hours ago, mrsmackpaul said:

Olives are these things for airlines, well at least thats what they are called out here

 

Paul

once again another fact is proven . no matter how long a person does a job , there's always room for new knowledge . after 50 yrs wrenching never knew they were olives. i know plenty of times when the line wouldn't move i called the brass ferrells alot of other names.

On 3/13/2022 at 3:48 PM, The Nitro said:

I will order a new valve and pull this one apart afterwards just to see how it  works. Thanks for the tips.

 

one of the best teachers is yourself when taking things apart to see what makes them tick. i never stop preaching safety . 

older style had a couple of springs under the valve plates not hefty  just long enough to throw dirt or whatever. point is advised to wear safety glasses not only  that project == every one.   even greasing .

6 hours ago, JoeH said:

Hardest task is removing the + nut. We had to use oxy acetylene torch to heat up the steering knuckle so we could turn the nut.  

if proper 3/4 dr " screwdriver" socket isn't available , i've used a piece of 1/4 x 1 1/2? flatstock  with large adjustable wrench  to work and loosen the lower nut.  remove nut and thrust bearing a block of wood under the spindle held tight to spindle with floor/bottle jack. makes for solid hitting. i had a length of 1in bar -8-12 in long that had a pipe welded to it. made for safe holding of bar and short distance away from sledge hammer. one holding pipe/bar  another swings the sledge. another positive  of the block under spindle  when king pin frees and falls the block keeps it in place   spindle doesn't fall on toes

6 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

yes Mech, however, i have buffed them to get a smooth snug fit, because when they get driven in there will be a bit of a peaned over edge, but it can be buffed/ chamfered with a flapper wheel or by hand with that little wiggly tool that I cant name..  oop's... jojo

when bronze bushings were being installed, i used a large C-clamp  two pieces of flat stock. all cleaned and lubed; basically  hand pressed the new bushings in. the reaming was the challenge. too much sloppy spindle.

7 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

looks like shit all over it.. that one is the adjustable one, but given the dirt all around it.... you need to clean it real good and check it again... if you are sure that its bad,  the repair is not hard to do..  when you take it apart,  take the king pin and put it back into the axle beam boss to see if it is worn out.. if it is, you can get the beam reamed and re-bushed to accept the new king pin set...  jojo

steam cleaner is best, if you can use one anymore.  i  had one so packed with old grease/dirt  used an air hose to clean between spindle and axle . worn out was twice as bad without the packed dirt in there.

2 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

looks like shit all over it.. that one is the adjustable one, but given the dirt all around it.... you need to clean it real good and check it again... if you are sure that its bad,  the repair is not hard to do..  when you take it apart,  take the king pin and put it back into the axle beam boss to see if it is worn out.. if it is, you can get the beam reamed and re-bushed to accept the new king pin set...  jojo

1 minute ago, terry said:

That style you take backing plate off, take cotter pin out of bottom, then there is a cross slot on botton, screw that out, the top is pressed in, pop that out and knock pin out to the bottom , once you break the taper loose it will fall out, alot of the replacements are nylon bushings.

new replacements nylon; would  that indicate no more reaming ? 

1 hour ago, dieselfuel007 said:

I figured it out I think it was assembled wrong the last time someone had it apart. I made all the u joint the same as the other truck that has the same setup which made my steering wheel 90 degrees off then I took it loose at the steering box and recentered it I was rereading everybody comments and when looking at the shaft it was just like mackpro said they are like an 1/8 of a turn off I’ve been so frustrated with this I’m glad it’s fixed thanks guys

and thank you for giving this forum an update and a positive repair made one at that.

5 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

I just dropped $2800.00 on a counterbore cutter and the cutter plate and extra carbide's.. jojo

I lucked out  few times on tool acquisitions . got a 60 ton 2 speed hyd press for cash owed. brake job on a trailer (OO said he was short on cash before starting)  got me a near new 1 in dr air gun CP and a 20 ton portable air jack. 

that style  has the taper on the king pin center.  top/ bottom of pin is straight. might be different today. newly installed  bushings had to be reamed out to fit pins. the bottom adjusting nut was mainly for setting the pin to thrust bearing. i have seen tightening the bottom nut  help a loose spindle for a quick temporary fix.  but that usually means bearing is worn and pin dropped . 

and i thought the shirt was free also  for buy the set . 

4 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

Mechohaulic,  I posted this for youre entertainment,  jojo

entertainment !!!  darn i almost didn't make it to my heart pills LOL   that's insane  .  

2 hours ago, JoeH said:

The reason your mechanic won't do it again is that these engines have a lot of duct work to get to the valve covers. 2 sets of intake pipes, one for intake and one for the tip turbine. They go together like a puzzle. Crankcase breather crossover tube on top of the valve covers, and the valve cover gaskets are a right PITA! Especially if you have a Jake brake.  We have had to straighten our valve covers numerous times, we've learned you have to torque them up by the book to keep them from leaking. They deform with the slightest amount of overtorque

i found if you put a number of light center punches on the jake spacer  both sides it seems to hold the rubber gasket in place better also 

seems i see a pattern showing up again==old is adjustable ; new is throw away. i had a 3/4 drive "screw driver style socket for adjusting , had to round corners of socket a little for secure fit. hold tension on the ratchet same time slight tapping with hammer on axle in location of king pin. it helps set the pin. 

there should still be the line up arrows ? too late now for that . based on info given the steering shaft sounds to be the culprit  ? yes/no. on a 4spline not much choice  for mis install, i did see (yrs ago) a binding steering system which has the shaft misaligned.  it was a multi spline not a 4

Joseph equipt  always has some unique stuff. while back there were DM800's ; must be a big  equipt dealer . has some of the largest low beds all shape configurations

aren't a lot of states saying .NO to glider kits . thought i read that some where.  i built a U611st  glider kit  for a customer years ago. people building without the emission crap using older parts ?

looking at the prices listed here can sure be discouraging for me .thinking of  the stack of  Mack service manuals/ operator books , detroit diesel, cummins manuals etc i had . most of which were given away.  

lifters should definitely be reworked/ replaced. holding them up helps with cam removal/ install. have had the unfortunate experience of hands pushing up lifters as a"helper" is working cam in to place . half way in one hand is holding up cam through bushings. when a lifter falls as your hand is pushing up lifter the cam goes real fast hurts the fingers in the way. clothes pins eliminate the hand in the way.

i like it.    $700.00  darn     prices are un real today. another "secret"  advantage to clothes pins;;;  you can sneak them back to the wifes laundry basket when she's not looking.  what motor oil spots  = i donno  what that is 😁

have to question why the quick change of lower steer shaft with another spare after u-joint . possible rollers slipped in one of the caps  during install on first shaft  installing a spare didn't line up the u-joints  creating a bind

17 minutes ago, Onyx610 said:

Gotta love the “it was fine until you worked on it “ 

pay close attention to the last sentence,  sounds like something my wife would say , no offence. it was fine till WE worked on it !! not till "you worked on it " Ony   LOL 😄

another positive = clothes pins can be reused ; less chance of a piece of broken tye falling in  engine ;;; just say in

55 minutes ago, JoeH said:

If you need to pull the cam out, use zip ties to hold all the lifters up. I managed to pull the cam out as well as one lifter on our spare motor without having to take the oil pan off. (Our spare motor is bolted to a homemade engine stand that makes oil pan removal difficult, but let's us move it around on the forklift). Stuff the old cam in to keep the lifters from dropping during storage.

 

The lifter was a challenge to get out, I had to make some sort of a rod to reach through the cam bearing assembly to catch the lifter from falling into the oil pan.

wooden clothes pins (oops no one knows what they  are 😆)LOL  always worked well  for holding up the lifters. of course back then engines weren't buried in emission crap