JoeH

Don't have the paint code for the white  that Cementech uses so this truck gets a grey cab for now because I have a leftover gallon of it from my pickup.

Cab painted. Baking overnight and in the morning we slap it together fast as we can!

That's our 228" wheelbase Titanic, 1995.  It was white with green accents. We have a 1988 RD that was an H&K Locust Ridge truck, that was green. It's white now. The H&K truck has a 218" wheelbase and steers night and day better than the '95, but we have yet to complete the '88 project, so it's just sitting at the yard.

8 minutes ago, mowerman said:

Out here thier usually trash or crane trucks… Bob

Trash trucks and concrete pumps. Same here.  The CemenTech mixer on a conventional cab would be about 3 ft longer than the RD model in the background, which has a 228" wheelbase and steers like the Titanic.

That is a good looking truck though....

3 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

JoeH and Glenn... are you guys talking about the reversing relay screwed into the the intake manifold?  I am working on a Superliner with an E-6 4valve, and I was wondering if I should replace the reversing relay.. I havent checked to see if I can get one yet... just curious, Jojo

We deleted the one on our '79 endt676 because the fitting on the intake manifold broke. Barely makes any smoke, but this truck has always spooled up fast and ran like a beast.

I've never seen a Mack that makes 38 psi boost.  My older endt676's peak at about 27, and my e7-350 is the same.

Sometimes filters clog slowly... And they do just that. Slowly over time they "trim" your governed speed lower and lower as the filter acts as a restriction point. If you haven't changed them recently then it's definitely worth doing before you go jumping on a $3,000 pump rebuild.

Well we don't know what your symptoms are so..... More info please

My 1988 had Ridgid mount cab but front pivot. My 79 has the same, Ridgid mount cab plus firewall to radiator supports.  '79 has pivot front mounts.

Repost this picture anywhere you think is useful. Lift axle chart for lbs to the ground depending on air bag psi for a Link Mfg 20k lift axle.

28 minutes ago, terry said:

Biggest problem i see with one of the trucks for a dump truck would be over weight on the steer axle.  and you need a longer wheelbase for bridge laws.   terry

In PA if you're registered for 73,280 they don't care what your wheelbase is.  This truck will be 73280 on a 195" wheelbase, intrastate only.

This brand (CemenTech) is in Iowa, and the bulk of their sales must be in parts of the country where you have a mile to make your turn because they need 168" back of cab to center of tandem.  In the suburbs of Philly that's borderline impossible to get into people's driveways, let alone into their back yards! Hence the MR setup for this mixer.

It's going to be a volumetric mixer, not a barrel.  Mixer holds sand/stone/cement/water/admixtures in different compartments then siphons them off as needed to make concrete. It all drops onto that auger on the back where it's mixed into concrete.  Perks are maximum working time (concrete isn't mixing in transit) and (if your driver knows what he's doing) control over every aspect of your concrete. Slump, sand/stone ratios (sometimes we show up and the customer needs us to cut back on the stone and bump the sand up to do an overlay on existing concrete).  We got our first one of these trucks in 1967.

12 hours ago, theakerstwo said:

I almost bought one of them a few years back because it was so cheap and it was a trash truck.I was thinking of putting a dump bed on it but i said no because of all the glass up front and a dump truck would not work out to good.

Whats wrong with glass and a dump truck?

We're a small concrete delivery company, so this truck will be operated in a 15 mile radius. Tons of residential deliveries, backing into driveways, around houses, etc.  The maneuverability is going to be insane on this truck.  Short footprint has me a little worried about stability on a full load, but we'll just have to watch what we're doing a little more closely.

Sidenote, don't crank an engine for longer than 10 seconds. You'll overheat the starter and burn it out.  If it cranks but won't start and has a Check Engine Light on there's no sense in killing the batteries and starter.  You're on the right path trying to get this code sorted out.

Clogged fuel filter symptoms are exactly that.  Your truck acts like the governor is kicking in at a lower RPM than you remember.

Change your fuel filters. Primary and secondary.

That frame doesn't look very happy. Do you plan on straightening it?

Matt's Heavy Duty Mobile Diagnostics in Sellersville, PA came out this afternoon.  Tech (Cole) did a good job sifting through.  Scanner immediately showed no power to the EECU.  He managed to find the EECU power relay in the dash with no fuse/relay diagram, and found spread connectors for the related fuse. Truck is up and running! I think all we have left is to mount and plumb up air tanks and move the battery box as it interferes with the mixer peripherals.

Could be your pump/pressure relief is failing.  We have an old mack truck here with no power steering. You can't turn the wheel for shit unless you're moving. If you hit a bump it rips the wheel out of your hands.

Yea, he's probably tight up on money. Sounds like piston rings or worn valves.

If you give him 5k down and he uses it to "fix" the truck and you decide you don't want it: good luck getting your 5k back.