Underdog

may be the back of a F model cab.

That was my first thought. At least the owner kept it in the family. I have seen CH cabs with integral bunks for export and Aussie markets. We also know the B's had a sleepercab option years ago. Maybe this is a rare factory original? The metalwork looks very professional.

Alcoa announced a series of actions it's taking to deal with the current economic downturn, including cutting more than 13,500 jobs, more plant closures, plans to sell assets and cuts in production and capital expenditures.

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I do a lot of work for ALCOA. I am keeping my fingers crossed for my own good luck and anyone else who will be affected by this.

Welcome to the forum, TT. The more the merrier! Now down to the business of trading information. There is a guy down on 220 in your neck of the woods with a purple Superliner and an MH sitting out by the road. I have been trying for years to read the logo on the back of that MH sleeper, but can never slow down enough with traffic and all. Perhaps you can enlighten me. Also I notice the Purple truck has not moved in a while. Maybe it is for sale???

Sorry to hit you between the eyes right away, but everything clicked in my brain when I saw your home 20. In return for your gracious reply I will try today to post pictures in my album of the first truck I owned, an MH with an E9-450. I still pine for this truck, wish I still had it. That's another thread for Truck Stories. At least everyone can enjoy the pictures. I will try to scan in some pics; I don't have any digital pics of that truck.

Just look at it this way: It could be a true testament to the strength of your relationship.......

I'm sure she'd still hold you in high regards afterward. You may be constructing a very large "doghouse" as your new primary residence, but she would still love you!

Rob

Right you are. Many lines have been drawn by her and crossed by me. Still we put up with each other. Ain't love grand?

It figures a guy named Bubba would put something like that together! LOL!

But really, a one of a kind FLAY bed truck in deep red primer ! How can I resist? Oh yeah, Sweet Polly might draw the line on this one.

I would assume so, but the chemical properties may promote irritation to sensitive materials.

Rob

Thank you for the clarification, Rob. Underdog's base of knowledge is vastly expanding on many tangents as a result of membership in this forum.

This all makes sense in California where new emmision regs make older iron obsolete. Severely misguided attempts at environmental salvation with a healthy dose of economic stimulation.

I don't know if it is prudent with the type oil cooler that you have but I always use silicone lubricant on all "O" rings when reassembling. You can buy lubricant sold for this purpose, but I purchase a tube marketed as brake caliper lube. It is much less expensive, and you get about 50 times as much product in the larger tube.

Rob

Is that large size lubricant good for "edge wetting" as well?

Blowup toys, crabs, what next??? I believe the original post had something to do with oil coolers. On very rare occasions the experience of Underdog becomes of some practical use. I have previously performed the operation you describe, with very few cuss words. Not bad at all, Dave. Just need some patience and dexterity to get at some of the top bolts and line up the O-rings upon assembly. I think the O-rings are sold in a set, all in one package for the cooler, and you might want to add the O-rings and gasket for the filter tower since you will have it off anyway.

No crabs were injured in the posting of this response ! ! !

Hey Rob......My B.U.D. was named Sylvia, but one day she farted and flew out the window..........

I didn't realize times were that tough, guys. If we had known you all were so hard up, maybe Barry could have solicited for a Christmas "TOYS for SOTS" charity drive. Or at least new bottles of Monkey Grip for everyone. I prefer Gorilla Tape myself, though.

I just love the way these threads take a hard turn and end up in the ditch !

Thanks for the flowers anyway, Other dog !

The thing that gets me is arent those ECM boxes hermetically sealed? The connectors should in fact seal out all moisture, fluids and dirts. If not then blame it on poor or cheap design.

If a hose or harness rubs against the ECM housing, it can and will wear through. I have seen this several times on different makes of trucks & engines. Just poor workmanship when the truck is put together.

Whats the difference in these motors,some engines are listed as Maxidyne some as Econodyne some are listed with boath names such as EM6-350 Econodyne.I know what a maxidyne is but what does econodyne mean.Also what does Thermodyne mean. I'm thinking it has something to do with the charge air cooling.Thanks for any info.

The Thermodyne was the first Mack diesel with direct fuel injection into the cylinders. Most diesels before it used a pre- combustion chamber in the head to mix the fuel. This was a big advance in engine power and economy.

The Maxidyne, introduced in the mid sixties (along with the new R-model chassis), was the first true "low RPM" engine. Operating range 1200-2100 RPM. This again was a great improvement in power and economy at the time. Also allowed for less complicated transmissions and less shifting. Mack engineers really had this one figured out!

The econodyne, as its name might imply, was an attempt at improving fuel economy. This was a lower RPM engine (1200-1800 RPM) more suited to highway travel. These may have been Mack's first 4-valve cylinder heads as well. Someone who knows better than me might offer more info on that.

On modern engines, Maxidyne and Econodyne engines are set up according to what they will be used for. RPM range and torque rise is mostly defined by computer parameters. Maxidyne is set up for vocational and construction use with a wider operating range, while Econodyne is better suited for highway travel.

If your ECM is on the right side of the engine, the coolant line for the compressor runs behind the ECM. If this line leaks, I could see how coolant might get in there. If yours is a later 2001 with the updated ECM, this will not apply, as the ECM is on the other side of the engine.

Hi Thad,

This may be an F model. Some "super duty" construction trucks started production in the late 1930's. Post WWII trucks used the L cab offset to the driver's side. The heaviest chassis built would be FT or FW models. I found in my books some reference to an FCSW, but that was an all-wheel drive truck. I don't know if the designation would be the same. I'm pretty sure the truck in your photos belongs to Roger Gerhart in Lititz, PA. It is at his show every year on the ground driving around, not sitting on a trailer. I must say, quite an impressive sight to behold.

They should pack those in oilcloth so they don't get rusty on the boat ride.

I've noticed a difference in MPG's between ULSD and the 'regular'.

I have noticed a drop in power AND MPG's using ULSD. I try to get the 15ppm LSD as much as possible; my bulldog just seems happier for it.

Looking at the big picture, I don't see any economic or environmental gain if we all must burn more fossil fuel to achieve the same amount of work. Another example of big government steamrollers smoothing the way for us.

Thanks Rob for the info on charging batteries and safety tips

The only thing I might add is a note concerning dry cell or AGM batteries. These are becoming more popular for severe service and deep cycle operation. (There was a thread a few weeks ago about battery isolators and such) These newer design batteries are a completely different animal regarding charging & maintenance. Just make sure you know what you are dealing with to avoid personal injury and/or damage to your equipment.

I hope those are safety shoes she's wearing while working with tools

Just wondering if I could get any input from the experts here about what to look for in a used Mack Vision. I haven't decided whether I will be pulling liquid bulk, dry bulk, or refuse, but it will be local/regional work. I have found several trucks in Ontario in the 2004-2005 year model range with low miles for very reasonable prices, but I am wondering how bad they are eaten up with rust. Just wondering what type of specs to look for. Also, it seems impossible to find a full blooded Vision. Why is that?

Thanks,

Jeremy

The cabs on these trucks hold up very well, no rust issues there. Mack had some issues with chassis paint in the late '90s- early '00s don't know if any improvement has been made on later models. My 2000 CX has held up well in snow country, but I scrape & paint the frame every summer.

Most of the Visions are mutts with vendor components. Some say to save weight(Mack components are heavier). Another reason had to do with marketing. Mack wanted to make the Vision more attractive to fleets by giving them trans & rears that could be standardized with other truck brands. When I bought my truck new in 2000, Mack trans & rears were not even offered on the CX! I do dump work, so weight is a consideration, and the truck has held up well. 935,000 miles and counting on the original RoadRanger Super 10 and Spicer rears. If I had it to do over, a 13 or 18 speed and I would be totally happy with this truck. More gears is better for any kind of bulk hauling or off-road.

2004-2005 trucks will be right around 3 to 400,000 miles, so find out if the camshaft has been replaced. The E-TECH engines are notorious for that. Also a lot of these trucks have Spicer Solo clutches. If the clutch has not been replaced, it won't be long. Best to take the Solo out and throw it away. The auto adjusters work OK for about 3 to 400,000 miles, then you can't do anything but replace the clutch. Put in a good old fashioned Spicer Easy-Pedal 7-Spring, good to go another million miles.

Hope this all helps, good luck in your quest!

Probably going to Quebec Canada. I was there this past summer and there were plenty of those twin steer dumps running around.

I agree with you Thad. This seems to be standard in Quebec. Lots running around Montreal

Hello Underdog,

JP buys some of their visors from Dieter's but did not show the trim strip so I put in the link.

Here is a link for you on your CX http://www.metchro.com/Flash/indexang.html

Thanks for the link. Some cool stuff on there. They must supply IOWA80 cause I see the grille and fender trim I got from them. You're right about the visors too. Mine came from Dieter's. Now that I see a picture of the Millenium sleeper I must agree only a trim panel is available for those. I was thinking of the old style high roof.

I could never be a participant with public, or private politics as I sleep well living an honest life.

I could never sell cars for a living either.

That is the truth.

Rob

We're better off where we are I guess. Politics might corrupt us

Looking for a drop visor to fit a Mack CH with a millenium sleeper. I've looked everywhere but just thought i'd check if anyone happened to know of one out there before I go through the work of fabricating one. Any help is appreciated. Thanks AJ Manders

JP Chrome would be the place to check. They advertise here on the site. Iknow they have a drop visor for flat tops & daycabs, they are good to deal with and should be able to help in your quest.

Thanks Guys,

After reading everyones comments, I think I've just come up with a solution for my situtation. I am building a toterhome so I am looking for a 24' x 102 w x 108 h box with rollup door to convert into a camper. Which means I will be needing a couple of deep cycle batteries also.

With that in mind, What do you think about this setup. I use 2 group 31s in the drivers side battery box, On the right side I run 2 large deep cycle batteries. (mainly for camper use) But with a battery switch that will allow me to connect them to the start batteries if needed. I used to run a similar setup on a sportfishing boat I had years ago. I could tie my trolling batteries to the start batteries in case of a emergency. It no fun being on the ocean when 1 engine won't crank and you have to crawl back to shore.

Brian

This is similar to the setup I use to run accessories in my bunk, as I don't idle my truck. The only suggestion you might consider a battery isolator between the starting batteries and the deep cycles. this allows each bank to charge at their proper rates. I have a similar setup on my conversion van. I used a cutoff switch for several years, but battery life is greatly improved with the isolator. They are available at any RV store. Make sure you get an isolator rated for the amp output of your alternator. I also had to run a voltage sense wire(14 ga.) from the alt. to the start battery.