HK Trucking

Just get some 1/8 inch steel rolled to match the tank and have it welded on. A friend just got 2 pieces rolled to repair where the straps go, cost $50. We will weld it ourselves but it should'nt cost much to have it done. Definately cheaper than a new tank or the cost of fittings and hose to try and make something else work.

That's what I'd do if it was mine.

Don't forget to pressure test all the welds with soapy water, and re do any pinholes before re installing the tank.

Just a Note !Check the clutch brake squeaze first if its not right correct it with the out side adjustment!Then proceed with the half inch bearing clearance/1 1/2 free play!This way you do the job once !

I hope he doesn't encounter a jammed adjusting ring with the old "lockstrap" type adjuster!!!!!!

Time to get out the air chisel with a long blunt bit, or long steel drift & 5 lb. hammer!

how can i be sure what ground it has

Using a "test light", clamp the test light cround clamp to the truck frame (clean the paint & rust off where the clamp is placed to insure a good connection).

Touch the test light probe to the positive bat. cable connection, if the light comes on, then your system is negative ground. If the light comes on when you touch the test light probe to the neg. bat. cable connection, then your system is positive ground.

No batteries in it? Then as Rob said, you can tell which cable was positive because the terminal hole is larger, and the negative cable has a smaller terminal hole.

Thanks to all of you for this good input.

The oil was free, but not worth tearing up an engine.

Thanks again.

Use it for oiling the bar & chain on your chain saw.

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I'd rather sweat my balls off 24/7/365 than deal with snow already...

Amen to that!!!!!!!!!!

Can hardly wait for the "truckload" of ribs you must be delivering to me.

Rob

Well, that would be enough for your lunch Rob, then you'll have find something else for supper!!!

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You need know if the tires are 1100x22.5 or low profile.

My calculations were based on 11R22.5.

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Mack top loading tandems have five oil level compartments to maintan, three on the front rear and two on the rear rear, they all have drain points. None of the oil is shared except the lower housing, it is shared with the hubs.

FW

That's incorrect.

On initial fill, you fill the upper & lower compartments (and the power divider on the front diff), thereafter for routine maintenance you just check the bottom compartment and keep it full to the filler hole.

If you keep checking & adding oil to the upper compartment each time, it will result in the bottom compartment becoming overfull, and you'll be draining the excess out each time, which makes absolutely no sense, unless you like wasting gear lube.

64 MPH @ 1500 RPM.

90 MPH @ 2100 RPM.

You all remember when you went in the Parts store before the age of computers and they looked everything up in a parts book? The store I traded in here for years, one man owned and ran in by himself. He had this huge steel shelf or rack on the counter in front of him, and when you told him what you needed, he licked his finger, reached into the rack and usually moved a big load of books to one side or the other, he always seemed to land at the right place in the big stack.,When you paid him, he wrote it up on a receipt machine with a crank handle, turned the crank, and gave you your copy. He mixed paint, put acid in batteries, and usually gave excellent, correct diagnosis of what you needed to buy, based on what you told him. Dam,,,i miss those days,,,,randy

I remember that very well.

Guess that means I'm getting old!!!!!!!!

Funny thing is, in those days, without the "help" of computers, it seemed like I always got the right part, and it was usually in stock. None of this "we'll have it for you tomorrow" B.S.

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It'll fit, you'll have to shorten the driveshaft because the back box on a quadruplex is a lot longer than the duplex.

Also, make sure what type of clutch is in your truck. In a B model it will have either a push type single disc clutch, or a push type double disc clutch, you have to find a quad box with the correct bellhousing, input shaft etc to work with the type of clutch you have.

Regarding the trans from Joe's Mack, I'm not sure what year his DM600 is, but unless it's a very early one, the DM's usually had the pull type double disc clutch setup.

You could possibly mix & match parts from the front of your Duplex main box to make it work if it's set up for a different type of clutch than yours, or change your clutch & flywheel to match, but if you go from single to double disc you'll have to redrill the frame to move the trans mounts about an inch, and also if you go to a pull type clutch in your B model, you'll have to re engineer the clutch linkage to pull instead of push on the throwout bearing.

Edit: I see Joe's Mack DM is a 1969, so that would almost certainly have the pull type double disc clutch.

Sounds like a shitty job!

Has anyone added another auxiliary box behind a quad box or equivalent transmission? I would like to keep all of my low gears and leave the rear ratio where it is. Currently its a quad box (18 speed) and a 7.00 rear. The only issue is that the top speed in the B61 is 50 MPH and I would like to boost it just a bit. (10-15 MPH) Any pictures, auxiliary information, etc. would be helpful. Looking to learn what I would have to acquire to do the job.

What size rubber is that truck on?

When I was back east we had 7:00 rears behind a double over quad box, on 11:00 - 22 rubber and they would run 60 MPH @ 2100 RPM.

Is your engine achieving 2100 RPM? If not, fix the throttle linkage or adjust the hi speed stop screw so that it does get 2100.

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I think he was related to them. But this was Domain garbage co.

Yeah, had to think about that for a while, it was Nick Domain that owned Domain Sand & Gravel, then his son in law Ray DeMers kinda took over in the 80's. Ray was always at the pit they had in Dover.

Domain's motto was "Where Bulldozing Is Not A Sideline". They had that printed on all their tickets.

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Y'all done good. Thats a heck of a find, in good shape, not broken.

Can't beat the day i got half a birthday cake AND pepporoni pizza on the same street

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Really, knew a guy in CT. had his son helping one time. Kid put his lunchbox in the hopper. Going down the road, kid starts shuffling stuff, reaches in and pulls out a sandwich. Started eating it, caused an accident due to car following, guy puked.

HK might know or remember-Patsy Domain

Domain Sand & Gravel?

Hello, Does anyone have advice on what would be a recommended fluid for my 1986 rd600 with x-107 tranny (lo-hole),I want to put a good product in there but all the stuff on the shelf in the truck parts store is for much newer equipment. thanks

At the time of manufacture, Mack specified 85w-90 mineral based gear lube for those transmissions. I see no reason to use anything different now.

Another hint to help your transmission: don't try to engage reverse while the truck is rolling, or with the main stick already in gear.

Shift into reverse with the truck completely stopped and the main stick in neutral, then once the compound is in reverse, put the main in gear.

Those transmissions had a habit of breaking a tooth off the reverse idler gears if shifted into reverse roughly.

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"We use the electric over air solenoid valves connected to switches in the control console in the cab"

Herb, What do I need to ask for to get therse parts. I want to hook them up to drain the oil and water from my wet tank when I'm finally getting past these spandex 2 wheeling bastards that insist on riding on truck routes.

David, go to the Velvac site:

http://www.velvac.com/pdf/air.pdf

Scroll down to page 59, and find part # 320131, that's the valves we use.

Probably not a good idea to run all that water & air tank sludge through it though.

I hear ya on the 2 wheel morons!!!!

Hey Guys,

Need some help and input on a tailgate issue I have. I purchased the 97 Mack RD688 tri axle dump used. It has a 17' 6" Aluminum dump body on it. The guy I purchased it from switched the original tailgate over to a steel tailgate so he could haul concrete, stupid idea on his part with the aluminum bed. Anyway, he said he did not have the original gate anymore. The Steel gate is just a little bit smaller than the opening on the bed so I have about a 1/2" gap on either sides of the gate to the body. So, I need some input as to what I could use to close up this gap so I dont leak any material. I had a guy weld some angle iron on it. He put it along the edge on the inside of the gate. But he said he did not want to put it all the way up tight because if the gate shifted just a little when I dump a load, then I might not get it shut again. I can get where he is coming from, but that does not help my problem with still having a gap. I searched online for some sort of rubber seal or something. About 3 different patents popped up for this very thing, but no companies came up that offer something like this. I figured there has to be something like this out there, or maybe one of you guys have an idea. I thought about finding some sort of heavy rubber, maybe like the stuff they make the mud flaps out of, and screwing it on to gate so when it closes, that would close up the gaps.

Any input?????

The right way would be to build a new tailgate of the proper dimensions.

Temporarily you could get some 1/2" 0r 5/8" square stock and with the gate in the latched position, weld it to the sides of the gate so it is tight against rhe dump body opening. If the square stock interferes with those spreader chain hooks you may have to trim the pieces at the point of interference just enough to give clearance.

Unless you only haul "fine" materials like sand & topsoil, forget the rubber gaskets, they wouldn't last a fartin' spell!

Do get it fixed up though, that's just a broken windshield insurance claim, or D.O.T. spillage citation waiting to happen!

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I am going to take a pic of it and go to freightliner cause i think you is right

Thanks Rich

PS high speed does not work with this resister.

If the blower does not work on the hi speed setting, then there's something else wrong.

The resistor is not part of the circuit when the switch is in the high speed position, so therefore the problem could be in the switch, motor, wiring, circuit breaker, or it could be a bad ground.

I have two lift axles and i used a quick release on the lift up and down bags. It makes it so much faster going up and down. A quyick release like the barking brake circuit uses.

That's how I do it too Glenn, on the new ones I set up where I work.

We use the electric over air solenoid valves connected to switches in the control console in the cab.

Switch on = release pressure on the up bags,pressure on the down bags.

Switch off = release pressure on the down bags, put pressure on the up bags. That way the default setting in case of an electrical failure is "axle up".

Regulator & gauge on the down pressure port of the solenoid valve to adjust axle weight, full system pressure to up bags to prevent axle bounce when raised.

QR valves on the frame just above the lift axle(s)to exhaust the pressure fast.

I've also seen some that use relay valves mounted near the axle to fill the bags more quickly.

Just run the blower on "hi" all the time, no resistor needed.

Seems kinda like a contradiction.

Why would they want that long nose out in front, when the rear is chopped as short as possible to maneuver into tight jobsites with mobile homes?

I like Superliners, but I don't think that is the right truck for that application!

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Replace the regulator too, if you haven't already.

A few years ago I had a regulator go bad, it would work properly when the pressure was on (down) but would not let the air come back through when the push pull valve was moved to the up position, therefore the pressure was still held against the QR valve & bags even when the control was in the up position.

I've also seen it happen, and the results aren't pretty!

With the old serviceable type ends it's usually caused by the spring breaking between the adjusting screw and the cup that rides on the ball stud. That allows the cup to back away from the ball and the link can come off the ball.

A 1988 would have the non serviceable drag link, and as Rob said, the main cause of failure on those is lack of lubrication over time, which causes extreme wear of the joints, allowing the joints to get so loose that the link eventually can pop off the ball stud(s).

I'll never understand the mentality that leads to lack of lubrication on critical parts.

Grease is cheaper than parts and it is much easier to install.

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The wait is finally over,the new volvo cabover arrives in america this week!............Mark

Looks like it's outfitted with the same cutting edge technology as all the other junk they produce.